[ninjag]

There's a connection point under the r/h wheel arch (near the washer bottle) If you take a reading from there with the engine running it should give you alternator output voltage! Easier than trying to get to the back of the alternator.

A wee photo to help as well

 

[xf_phil]

From that it would seem that there are two separate feeds from the generator to the batteries, I don't think I knew that.. but then you don't have an XF anymore..

Definitely sounds like the generator has gone through too many contortions and is now dead/dying..

The small battery isn't charged by the alternator ( at least not directly ), it's charged by the Dual-battery module, which produces a stabilised charging voltage ( presumably with some kind of boost convertor / charge pump circuit hence why it can be charging even when the alterator is failed, and the main battery is at a lower voltage.)

 

[Lomond]

Fitted a Lucas from ecp ((£240) and all good so far 😂

 

[Popeye]

Dirk, I had a problem with my battery constantly dropping voltage (below 12v).
I discovered I had what's called " A parasitic battery drain ". (look it up)
With your drain of 500ma. I think you may have the same.
Mine was a fault in the dash-cam connection. Much cheaper and easier to fix than a new alternator.
I hope you are as lucky as I was.

Paul.

PS I should mention that 5 months after that I had bigger problems - NO electrics.
I had to have a new BCM --Body control module fitted. Wonder if they were connected ?

 

[sandmaennle]

The small battery isn't charged by the alternator ( at least not directly ), it's charged by the Dual-battery module, which produces a stabilised charging voltage ( presumably with some kind of boost convertor / charge pump circuit hence why it can be charging even when the alterator is failed, and the main battery is at a lower voltage.)

Thanks. I had something similiar in mind as I saw the dual battery module next to the fuse box in the boot. It has quite a lot of cooling fins.

Dirk

 

[sandmaennle]

Dirk, I had a problem with my battery constantly dropping voltage (below 12v).
I discovered I had what's called " A parasitic battery drain ". (look it up)
With your drain of 500ma. I think you may have the same.
Mine was a fault in the dash-cam connection. Much cheaper and easier to fix than a new alternator.
I hope you are as lucky as I was.

Paul.

PS I should mention that 5 months after that I had bigger problems - NO electrics.
I had to have a new BCM --Body control module fitted. Wonder if they were connected ?

Hello Paul,
I will keep that in mind. I will check the real quiescent current again. I think I measured the 500 mA too early. Next time I will wait half an hour to let all module fall asleep. Since I have the keyless entry system, the quiescent current will be slightly higher, compared with non-keyless system.
Have a nice and hopefully sunny Saturday.
Dirk

 

[sandmaennle]

Fitted a Lucas from ecp ((£240) and all good so far 😂

Thank you Lomond.
That's why I am wondering. On Autodoc I found a Lucas generator. With 150A. Suitable for the 3.0D with 275hp. But the workshop manual says it has to be a 220A generator. Confusing. But might be a mistake in the workshop manual.

Dirk

 

[The vast minority]

Many diagnostic tools will show voltage at the OBD port.

Have a smell of your alternator, does it smell like an electrical burn smell in the area.

I have also just fitted the alternator that you reference above, shown here with my old one.
The old one was shorted to earth on 2 of the 3 windings.
My car is much older and is a 2.7..

 

[FCS]

The alternator has probably failed due to excess current being drawn. Hence I would advise a high output one. I always am conscious of current I am drawing from mine, by that I mean shutting down certain systems when large loads are present, for example when in rain and cold weather with wipers, screen heat, headlights, etc. I shut down screen heat asap and rear window heat. At low engine rpm with high current drain the diodes in the generator will have less cooling and will get hot, which will reduce their life. If they go S/C you will have a big problem.
I would go for a 220A

 

[PeteA]

The small battery isn't charged by the alternator ( at least not directly ), it's charged by the Dual-battery module, which produces a stabilised charging voltage ( presumably with some kind of boost convertor / charge pump circuit hence why it can be charging even when the alterator is failed, and the main battery is at a lower voltage.)

That's what I thought Phil, hence my post.. which now doesn't sound quite like it did in my head when I wrote it..

 

[sandmaennle]

Not my week....battery charger broken
Right after charging the battery 1 nearly full. 14.1 V. .
I will go for a real ctek this time. Old one was something different.
Dirk

 

[PeteA]

'It never rains but it pours' Dirk! (Google link for explanation in case you haven't heard that expression before).

On the bright side, you'll soon have a shiny nice new CTEK, don't forget to connect the negative spade terminal to a chassis point rather than the battery if you go the permanent connection route.

 

[sandmaennle]

Thanks Pete
You are right. I took the train to the next bigger town with a tool shop. The train didn't come...it was broken .... my daughter gave me a ride with her Corsa
Finally just bought the ctek mxs 5 for 40% more than via the internet . I think it would be better taking a coffee and relax, rather than repairing anything today .
Dirk

 

[PeteA]

FFS!!.. I probably wouldn't bother buying a lottery ticket at the moment if I were you Dirk!.. 🙃


May I suggest some Whisky, Whiskey or Brandy in the coffee and an easy afternoon film on the T.V. with your feet up instead?..

 

[hamedhbb]

Thanks Pete
You are right. I took the train to the next bigger town with a tool shop. The train didn't come...it was broken .... my daughter gave me a ride with her Corsa
Finally just bought the ctek mxs 5 for 40% more than via the internet . I think it would be better taking a coffee and relax, rather than repairing anything today .
Dirk

That’s unfortunate Dirk.
I bought a 30A 12V switching power supply to keep the battery running for when I use SDD and use that for charging batteries. I watch it closely though.

I assume you have checked the accessories drive belt tensioner and the belt is not slipping? I guess it was done relatively recent?
Also have you checked the mega fuse on topof RH rear wheel arch behind the boot liner?

 

[sandmaennle]

FFS!!.. I probably wouldn't bother buying a lottery ticket at the moment if I were you Dirk!.. 🙃


May I suggest some Whisky, Whiskey or Brandy in the coffee and an easy afternoon film on the T.V. with your feet up instead?..

 

[sandmaennle]

That’s unfortunate Dirk.
I bought a 30A 12V switching power supply to keep the battery running for when I use SDD and use that for charging batteries. I watch it closely though.

I assume you have checked the accessories drive belt tensioner and the belt is not slipping? I guess it was done relatively recent?
Also have you checked the mega fuse on topof RH rear wheel arch behind the boot liner?

Thanks Hamed.
Good idea with the power supply. I was looking for something like that for the sdd sessions.

You are right the belt had been changed 2 years ago. Following Pete, I won't jack up my cat today . Tomorrow I will check if the alternator is really turning. The drive belt looks good and it is not loose. I checked the label on the alternator via endoscope camera this morning. And I saw that I will able to check if the alternator is really turning with the engine running.
I checked the related fuses in the boot fuse box but I don't know what mega fuse you mean. Any other hint regarding the Amps or what the fuse is for?
Dirk

 

[PeteA]

Hi Dirk, whilst not brilliant, this pic shows the position of the mega fuses:

The box with all the fuses is the RJB (rear junction box) and is behind the right hand panel/carpeting in the boot.

 

[sandmaennle]

Thank you Pete for the picture. As soon as I am home again, I will have a look at these fuses Dirk

 

[johnw777]

That's why I suggested checking at the front first, then you will know if the alternator is charging, if you get a positive result, then you can work your way back. No point checking that fuse if you have no power going there.