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Battery not charging and fault code P065C-01

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57K views 318 replies 19 participants last post by  xf_phil  
Thanks Popeye. So I have to start measuring the output directly at the generator :confused: Easy access.... :rolleyes:. Maybe the test mode , as @PeteA discribed in another thread, will show some other details? I m not very convinced because sdd couldn't perform a bms or battery check. Ends up with a fault "couldn't perform this test" after 20 sec. :(

Dirk
Your memory is better than mine Dirk!

And as Popeye says, measure at the batteries first, it's quick and easy and will also make sure that the car is telling the truth and not sending you on a wild goose chase, it probably isn't but it's worth a quick check.
 
Thank you so far...."contortions"...nice...didn't know that yet :) . In German you say "No need for a handstand" :)

So I did the right things yesterday :)
I measured both batteries at their terminals. The current is measured with a current probe and the direction (charge or discharge) has been checked and respected:)
Engine not running:
  • battery 1 (big one) = 11,99 V
  • battery 2 (auxiliary one) = 13,74 V
  • discharge current battery 1 = 500 mA
  • discharge current battery 2 = 170 mA
Engine running for about 1 minute and measured with running engine:
  • battery 1 drops down to 9,9 V during cranking (good value :) )
  • battery 1 after 1 minute = 11,70 V
  • battery discharge current = 21 A
  • battery 2 = 14,2 V
  • battery 2 charging current = 1,2 A
  • Voltage from the engine block to battery 1 plus terminal = 12,35 V

From my point of view, the generator is dead :(

Dirk
From that it would seem that there are two separate feeds from the generator to the batteries, I don't think I knew that.. but then you don't have an XF anymore..

Definitely sounds like the generator has gone through too many contortions and is now dead/dying..

:D
 
The small battery isn't charged by the alternator ( at least not directly ), it's charged by the Dual-battery module, which produces a stabilised charging voltage ( presumably with some kind of boost convertor / charge pump circuit hence why it can be charging even when the alterator is failed, and the main battery is at a lower voltage.)
That's what I thought Phil, hence my post.. which now doesn't sound quite like it did in my head when I wrote it.. :)
 
'It never rains but it pours' Dirk! (Google link for explanation in case you haven't heard that expression before).

On the bright side, you'll soon have a shiny nice new CTEK, don't forget to connect the negative spade terminal to a chassis point rather than the battery if you go the permanent connection route.
 
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FFS!!.. I probably wouldn't bother buying a lottery ticket at the moment if I were you Dirk!.. 🙃


May I suggest some Whisky, Whiskey or Brandy in the coffee and an easy afternoon film on the T.V. with your feet up instead?.. :)
 
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Hi Dirk, whilst not brilliant, this pic shows the position of the mega fuses:
Image

The box with all the fuses is the RJB (rear junction box) and is behind the right hand panel/carpeting in the boot.
 
Ok. Got that, John. I checked the fuses first. They are ok. Tomorrow I will check the output of the alternator. Or generator? In German you call it Lichtmaschine. Means light-machine. It is an old name coming from the times where this part delivered the power mostly for the head lamps :).
I think tomorrow I will only state that the generator is dead .

Dirk
There is also a technical difference between an alternator and a generator.. I used to be able to remember what (without the use of an internet search engine)... :rolleyes:
 
I would contact @Onotole, @MoJo88 or @08292 in the first instance Dirk, even if they can't provide a first time full fix they can hopefully at least get the car to start for you, though it may only be until you disconnect the battery again.

Onotole and Mo can re-flash BCM's if needed, I image Michael can too but I don't know for sure, especially at the moment for him..

Good luck.
 
There 'should' be a proximity type docking port near the boot/tailgate release.. Onotole told me to place my keys near the rotary knob when my car lost communication with the keys as part of the re-pairing process...
 
I have a facelift Phil, I know there are no markings, I didn't say that there was 🤷‍♂️ .. I have been here with very similar issues and when holding my key's to the lower right of the steering wheel didn't help Onotole had me place them near the rotary selector...
 
I have a facelift Phil, I know there are no markings, I didn't say that there was 🤷‍♂️ .. I have been here with very similar issues and when holding my key's to the lower right of the steering wheel didn't help Onotole had me place them near the rotary selector...
I know you didn't say there were, but "docking port" might have implied that to some people ;)
Have tried it on my facelift car, and with no battery in the fob, it will start with the key held against the dash below the foglight/boot/tailgate release switch. So there is definitely a NFC sensor there.
Hence me carefully saying:
There 'should' be a proximity type docking port near the boot/tailgate release.. Onotole told me to place my keys near the rotary knob when my car lost communication with the keys as part of the re-pairing process...
Maybe you are more realistic about those that might read this thread in the future... :D
 
So I have to jack the cat up again :) . At the moment we have 34°C in the shade....
But a good suggestion. Maybe the alternator is bad? But it wasn`t a easy job to change this cute little thing :(. I don't want to do it again tomorrow....
Dirk
:eek:
 
I wasn't intending to offend you Pete, you do so many great posts with useful info in more threads than I can ever imagine keeping up with. I admit the phrase "proximity type docking port" doesn't mean a whole lot to me, and others may well understand exactly what you meant and that I may well be the only one poorly interpreting it!

Just when I came to try it a while ago I ended up looking for the pic in the manual for where it was despite having previously read about it, as I was surprised to find there where no markings on the dash and thought I must be looking in the wrong spot. ( I had figured they'd have an embossed mark for where to put it or something ) - now someone's probably gonna send a pic of some subtle marking on the dash that I missed :)
No offence taken whatsoever Phil :) ..

As for my posts compared to yours.. mine are many but often with little that actually helps, yours however are often/usually filled with very in depth info that is very helpful and/or insightful.. as this thread proves!

Ignore me and keep your very helpful posts coming please!
 
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A thought Dirk, what does the red light in the middle of the dash do, it might flash which could provide a clue as to where to look.
And (whilst you're indoors out of the silly hot heat you have at the moment) have a look at page 2792 in the workshop manual you have, it describes the system operation of the PATS (Passive Anti Theft System), again it might not help but it might provoke your thinking in a way that could help narrow down what is happening or not happening.
 
The red light flashes fast. But I couldn't find the meaning of the flashes in the handbook. It just says
-> Is there a Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) flash code?
So what does the flashes mean?
I will try to make a video of the red light. Then I can check afterwards how often it flashes.

Thank you for the hint with the page. Do you know if one of my failing modules ist the RJB?
View attachment 193068
The CJB can be found as the BCM and BCMB on CAN_MS.
I will check the RJB later on. Now it looks more like a PATS problem. All modules of PATS are offline.
Let me think about that. The only thing that's a bit strange, via SDD I can verify the keys and SDD tells me that they are programmed/stored in the system. So the systems knows my keys.

View attachment 193069

View attachment 193070 View attachment 193071

Dirk
Here is a starter Dirk:
Image


I'm currently trying to remember why I screen grabbed that and who I got it for in case it provides any more clues for you..

@JordanRaven rings a bell at the moment but I'm not sure that's right..
 
Reading Onotole’s post, it seems he could reprogram the keys but they were lost after disconnecting the battery. I guess the eeprom was corrupted before you started this job and it only showed up this time after you have disconnected both batteries. Probably it’s been long time since you have disconnected both batteries together.
Onotole and MoJo can perform a temp. fix with SDD or a permanent one if you send your CJB off to them Hamed, I really must get round to sending mine off to MoJo..
 
I don't 'think' so Hamed.. I'll be honest, I'm not too keen on finding out!!.. :D
 
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Really?! Pete, come on :)
To be honest, I wouldn't either want to find it out the hard way :)

Dirk
You are quote right as usual Dirk, my mileage is very very low at the moment and I've only done 235 miles in the last two days.. and what with it being a positively cold 22/24C I could've tried it and if it failed walked/cycled instead..


Or, maybe not!... 😁



P.S. Another expression we have over here is: 'Let sleeping dogs lay' i.e. 'Don't provoke things/ or tempt fait'... I'm guessing that you have an equivalent?