Steve from memory I think they're both black in the door)but go to a connector then they're coloured, can't remember if I took a photo, will have a look though
I took a feed from my OSR as I had no choice (no line out on head unit)

 

Same situation for me Gav. I've the trim off the rear, will pull the drivers tread plate later and ease the pillar trim away.
If you had a pic, that would be great.

 

Gav
Any of this look familiar?
I’ve tried the thicker wires with no joy.
Pulling the door card is an option, but would rather not if I can help it!

Thx


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sorry Steve, still working will have a look through my photos soon and if not will pull the trim...

 

No rush Gav. I was trying to put up an image of mine to let you see, but couldn't... Hopefully this will be visible. Ignore the snap connectors, I don't think they're the right wires.

 

Steve I didn't take any (useful) pics anyway just been out and removed the trim the best I could (I'm going down to tescos in a min) and tried to photo, they're the right wires but I couldn't remove the insulation to see polarity sorry

 

You don't need to worry as much about polarity for Subs. In Out In Out or Out In Out In can match the other speakers in the car 'better'. Personal preference on sound matching...

Although saying that if you are using the speaker wires as a high level input for an amplifier best get them the correct way round!

 

I‘m using the speaker o/p as HLI to my amp, that’s why I mentioned it.

 

Thanks Gav, really appreciate it. I know how difficult it is to get in there. [emoji106]

And thanks Carl, I’ll bear that in mind. I’ve to get a line to low level adapter for the amp so hopefully that will help isolate them.


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Right I got both sides done, without losing any of the springs off the clips.
What a ballache they are, I've had to reshape most of them to get them to catch again. The new clips arrived today and are an exact match so I was ok if I didn't get them back together.

I did both sides in the end as Dan is 'giving' me a two channel amp with RCA low level inputs. I'll need to get a speaker level to line level adapter but with both channels it will allow me to drive the two 8" subs he's also 'giving' me!

For future reference, here are the wiring connectors in the B pillar. I'm not sure which is +VE and -VE yet but I get sound out of a 6x9 three way speaker attached to each side (briefly for testing only).

Drivers side (offside) UK car :

Passenger side (nearside) UK car:

Thanks for the help guys! Appreciated

 

Can you tell me what size (gauge) those wires are? I need to get some splice connectors like the ones you used but they come in many different sizes...

Thanks in advance!

 

Well done Steve as an aside though, subs only need mono, so you could have driven them both of one channel, but where’s the fun in that eh?

 

I know Gav, but young Dan is most insistent...!!
He has the setup I'll be using in his car at the minute and it definitely sounds better with both speaker inputs. I guess if you have two channels on the amp, you may as well use them!

 

I bridged mine to run the single 8” sub

 

I'm being given a 2000w 2 channel Juice amp with 2x 8" Juice single coil 4 Ohm subwoofers.
Boxes, wiring kit and hi-low converter ordered today. The hi-low is a Connects2 device with speaker input sensing that can turn on the amp, so I don't need to find a switched live in the boot.

 

Great, pity about the switched live, I could have helped you there!

 

Steve here's the location of a switched live on the RFB

 

Riggs is going to be foaming in the pants when he learns of this upgrade. I hope he's home soon to experience the power .

 

Thanks Gav, I’ll add that in.
I may actually use it as a feed to the amp rather than depend on this splitter. It’s a good option.


Riggs has been very quiet on the day shift Conor. I hope there aren’t Norwegian Pirates on the North Sea at this time of year[emoji15]


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Hey guys - day shift is fecking busy, and I'm now part of a two man team, not three, constantly having to reconfigure the sub for different tasks while we do the platform inspections..

Steve - sounds like you're getting more out of your XF V2 than you imagined.


Power, looks and (interior) sounds.

Whats next? Exterior sounds mod?

Looking forward to seeing the mods you've done, once
a - I get home
b - we are let outside like grown ups again.

 

Good to hear from you Allan! No Pirates then?

Big internal mod just done, will post up a how to when I get the writeup done, but here's a small picture to set the scene

The next exterior mod is under way....

 

Love that carpet.

 

Just an update to this. Very often you destroy the trim clips when removing the sill tread covers or B-Pillar mouldings.
The spring comes off the clip and is lost into the cavity.

There are replacements available much cheaper than the Jaguar originals from here

Trim Panel Clips with Metal Spring, Renault 7703077478

A distinctive interior trim clip with pre-fitted metal spring. These clips are normally used on plastic trim panels such as pillar linings, tailgate linings, sill covers and side skirts.

www.vehicleclips.co.uk

They are black, but correctly handed. £3.60 for a pack of 10 instead of £9 each from Jaguar...

 

And finally, I broke out the wallet and signed on to Topix for an hour.
Find below the x260 speaker wiring diagram for base audio - Audio Head Unit located in dash with integrated 4 channel amp and 8 speakers.

I have the Meridian diagram if anyone needs it, drop me a PM.

 

Can you please send me the diagram for the 380w Meridian? I need this for a 2017 F-Pace, I think it should be similar.

 

Sure. I’ll get that to you later today.

 

Not the beef sub Steve okay ...

 

Nope Conor, that’s reserved for Riggs [emoji16][emoji106]

 

Quick update having lived with this for a few months.

The placement of the sub in the boot is important due to reflection of the waves.
I initially placed my two 8" sub enclosures behind the back seat facing backward, this didn't really produce any real thump with the doors closed, but I noticed that opening the drivers door increased the bass levels markedly. Obs not ideal to drive along with the door open....

After a lot of experimentation I found that the best place for the boxes was right at the boot opening facing forward, which gave great bass and allowed me to keep the door closed!
It's not particularly practical though.

I've just aquired a 12" single and will have a play with that to see if placing it facing up from the floor is any better.

 

I've still not got the subs to a satisfactory point and am struggling with them at the boot opening, so I've bought an original Jaguar subwoofer off Ebay, which should be here on Friday.

Pardon our interruption...

The sub appears, from the wiring diagram, to have two speakers in it, with four wires. +/- for each speaker. I'm hoping that I can drive both speakers off the outputs of my sub amp instead of the two separate boxed speakers I'm currently running.

The subwoofer fits in the driver side rear wheelarch, behind the splash panel and vents into the boot through the body.
I don't believe there is any wiring in place for it, but may get a look later on.

 

I don’t know, but looking at the wiring diagram above it says 1.0 against each of the speaker wires in the rear door for the base audio without sub.

Is that maybe 1.0 mm CSA?

 

I don’t know, but looking at the wiring diagram above it says 1.0 against each of the speaker wires in the rear door for the base audio without sub.

Is that maybe 1.0 mm CSA?

I think so, that would make sense, 1.0 CSA = 18 AWG which is a common size. Thanks for the help!

 

could you post the diagram of the 380w meridian again? The link which statler provided isn't working anymore unfortunately...