As suggested by PeteA, I have decided to try and give a simple guide for replacing the inlet manifolds (rocker covers) on the 3.0d engines that suffer the all to common hairline crack and resulting Restricted Performance. This is based on my experience as well valuable input from Hamed and I relied on reference to the 2010 3.0d workshop manuel.
Please note this is only based on my experience as a non-qualified DIY car guy and I use standard tools and some degree of improvisation when needed. For sure a qualified mechanic would have done the work and describe it better, however there is indeed no "how to" guide for this, so here goes.
First of all, thanks to Hamed for providing this link to the new inlet manifolds. I however just saw they have gone up in price a lot so shop around - e.g. here also. They come with the thick rubber gasket as well as all 13 bolts attached. Note that all 3.0d V6 engines (Jaguar and Land Rover) share the same parts. You may need to drill a small hole for the breather pipe in some cases (as I did).
I would also advise getting the 3 new O-ring seals for the Throttle Body (TB), especially the 2 thicker ones that seal entry into manifolds. Link.
It is of course better to have a garage to do this as the overhead camshafts will be exposed, however easily possible to do it outside, as I did. In total it took me about 2 weekends worth of work, however would be much faster in a garage.
![184010]( "184010")
I have unfortunately deleted some of the pictures I took (mainly to remind me of how to put everything back together again), however I saved enough to give some visual assistance to others wanting to do this.
First, remove all the plastic covering at base of windscreen (need to remove wiper arms) as well as the metal crossbar underneath. This will allow easier access to the rear parts of the manifold covers. After removing all the plastic plugs holding it down, the large plastic covers can be pulled straight off the lower edge of windscreen, or, alternatively, pulled up to leave the long plastic clamp attached to the lower edge of windscreen. Start at one end. Do not forget to disconnect the washer pipes under the plastic before pulling it away completely.
![184012]( "184012")
This exposes the other centrally located plastic guard that needs to be removed. Unclip the upper cover first and move the thick cable to access one of the front screws (my cable was lying other way round compared to diagram below- perhaps because LHD):
![Image]()
![184015]( "184015")
The metal bar can be removed easily (2 bolts at each side). I only did this later, however best to have the extra room straight away.
![184013]( "184013")
Also, you will need to remove the main air filter box and associated MAF sensors.
Now unscrew/unbolt the 2 EGR return pipes from both the throttle body (TB) and EGR units and completely remove the pipes. A bracket holding each pipe also needs to be released. Need long extensions to reach down to the 2 bolts holding pipe to EGR units. It requires a bit of effort and bending the metal pipes to remove them. I did not unclip the bracket on these pipes, which would make removal a bit easier. Apparently the clip can be removed and reused if done correctly. There are long bolts holding the TB and air box to engine and a metal clip connecting the TB to small air box has to be removed by pulling up. Now remove the small air box, which has an electrical connector for air temp and secondary turbo boost pipe clip connection that need removing. Be careful not to damage the hard plastic turbo boost pipe as it is brittle. This just serves the purpose of turning the secondary turbo to maintain lubrication and preparing it for action when needed above 2700 rpm. The rubber O-ring here may break and I used a new one from my collection of O-rings but was hard to get an exact fit. Then remove the TB by carefully but firmly twisting and pulling free from the inlet manifold openings.
Once the TB is removed you will likely see this type of gunky mess on ends of EGR return pipes and in the TB itself:
![184018]( "184018")
![184019]( "184019")
Clean everything as best you can and also remember to remove and inspect/clean the MAP sensor on top of the TB. I decided to replaced my MAP sensor (about € 70) as it was completely blocked and I probably used too harsh a cleaning treatment (screwdriver and cloth). Apparently one should use only electrical spray cleaner as the chip inside the hole is very sensitive.
Next, remove the pipes from the high pressure fuel rail to injectors in order to completely remove the lower insulating pad. Also need to unbolt and move the fuel rail, however not necessary to completely remove fuel rail.
The area on manifold where cracks appear is covered by the top of the insulation foam pad. As you can see I tore apart my LH lower insulating foam pad by unsuccessfully trying to pull it away from under the fuel rail (rail first needs to be unbolted from its bracket to do this). I still reused the torn foam pad without problem however. You can see the oily residues around the injectors, which likely happens when when boost pressure increases and opens up the crack.
![184023]( "184023")
![184024]( "184024")
You also need to remove the 4th nut from the fuel rail that attaches the metal pipe going to the opposite fuel rail (to equalize the pressures between them I guess).
![Image]()
I cannot add more pictures to this thread so will start another (part 2 link).
Please note this is only based on my experience as a non-qualified DIY car guy and I use standard tools and some degree of improvisation when needed. For sure a qualified mechanic would have done the work and describe it better, however there is indeed no "how to" guide for this, so here goes.
First of all, thanks to Hamed for providing this link to the new inlet manifolds. I however just saw they have gone up in price a lot so shop around - e.g. here also. They come with the thick rubber gasket as well as all 13 bolts attached. Note that all 3.0d V6 engines (Jaguar and Land Rover) share the same parts. You may need to drill a small hole for the breather pipe in some cases (as I did).
I would also advise getting the 3 new O-ring seals for the Throttle Body (TB), especially the 2 thicker ones that seal entry into manifolds. Link.
It is of course better to have a garage to do this as the overhead camshafts will be exposed, however easily possible to do it outside, as I did. In total it took me about 2 weekends worth of work, however would be much faster in a garage.
I have unfortunately deleted some of the pictures I took (mainly to remind me of how to put everything back together again), however I saved enough to give some visual assistance to others wanting to do this.
First, remove all the plastic covering at base of windscreen (need to remove wiper arms) as well as the metal crossbar underneath. This will allow easier access to the rear parts of the manifold covers. After removing all the plastic plugs holding it down, the large plastic covers can be pulled straight off the lower edge of windscreen, or, alternatively, pulled up to leave the long plastic clamp attached to the lower edge of windscreen. Start at one end. Do not forget to disconnect the washer pipes under the plastic before pulling it away completely.
This exposes the other centrally located plastic guard that needs to be removed. Unclip the upper cover first and move the thick cable to access one of the front screws (my cable was lying other way round compared to diagram below- perhaps because LHD):
The metal bar can be removed easily (2 bolts at each side). I only did this later, however best to have the extra room straight away.
Also, you will need to remove the main air filter box and associated MAF sensors.
Now unscrew/unbolt the 2 EGR return pipes from both the throttle body (TB) and EGR units and completely remove the pipes. A bracket holding each pipe also needs to be released. Need long extensions to reach down to the 2 bolts holding pipe to EGR units. It requires a bit of effort and bending the metal pipes to remove them. I did not unclip the bracket on these pipes, which would make removal a bit easier. Apparently the clip can be removed and reused if done correctly. There are long bolts holding the TB and air box to engine and a metal clip connecting the TB to small air box has to be removed by pulling up. Now remove the small air box, which has an electrical connector for air temp and secondary turbo boost pipe clip connection that need removing. Be careful not to damage the hard plastic turbo boost pipe as it is brittle. This just serves the purpose of turning the secondary turbo to maintain lubrication and preparing it for action when needed above 2700 rpm. The rubber O-ring here may break and I used a new one from my collection of O-rings but was hard to get an exact fit. Then remove the TB by carefully but firmly twisting and pulling free from the inlet manifold openings.
Once the TB is removed you will likely see this type of gunky mess on ends of EGR return pipes and in the TB itself:
Clean everything as best you can and also remember to remove and inspect/clean the MAP sensor on top of the TB. I decided to replaced my MAP sensor (about € 70) as it was completely blocked and I probably used too harsh a cleaning treatment (screwdriver and cloth). Apparently one should use only electrical spray cleaner as the chip inside the hole is very sensitive.
Next, remove the pipes from the high pressure fuel rail to injectors in order to completely remove the lower insulating pad. Also need to unbolt and move the fuel rail, however not necessary to completely remove fuel rail.
The area on manifold where cracks appear is covered by the top of the insulation foam pad. As you can see I tore apart my LH lower insulating foam pad by unsuccessfully trying to pull it away from under the fuel rail (rail first needs to be unbolted from its bracket to do this). I still reused the torn foam pad without problem however. You can see the oily residues around the injectors, which likely happens when when boost pressure increases and opens up the crack.
You also need to remove the 4th nut from the fuel rail that attaches the metal pipe going to the opposite fuel rail (to equalize the pressures between them I guess).
I cannot add more pictures to this thread so will start another (part 2 link).
