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Yeah, was a bit of a thread revival! lol

I suppose it's worth pointing out caithness1949 that the OP commented that his transmission is the 6HP26, and according to ZF I believe the temperature should actually be between 30-35°C?

I guess being out by 5 degrees is an awful sin in this day and age,I will however,remind myself to double nay, even treble ✅ check any comments I dare to submit next time.
 

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I guess being out by 5 degrees is an awful sin in this day and age,I will however,remind myself to double nay, even treble ✅ check any comments I dare to submit next time.
I don't think you should take things so seriously on here, we are well known for taking the urine, just go with flow and you will fit in fine. Phil
 

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I guess being out by 5 degrees is an awful sin in this day and age,I will however,remind myself to double nay, even treble ✅ check any comments I dare to submit next time.
I've no idea how important it is, but I would assume that there's obviously a reason for the 5°C difference. It's not just ZF, for example the DSG 7 speed has the second fill done when the fluid reaches exactly 40°C and it has to be done quickly.

Besides, it's not like I ripped into you. I kept it light, so chill and maybe pop a wee introduction post up?
 

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I used a laser thermometer last time I refilled a transmission, pointed at the metal sump. It's amazing how fast the fluid temperature rises on idle.
 

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I watched this video on you tube by Rimmer Bros Jaguar XF - Why Should I Get My Automatic Gearbox Serviced?
it shows the whole procedure used to remove, flush and refill the auto gearbox, although as I have already stated the Jaguar dealer I spoke to said the auto gearbox on the ZF 2.2 doesn't need this type of procedure done to it nor does the back Div which apparently is sealed for life?
 

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"Sealed for life"

But "Life" is not defined, and without fresh oil, it will always be shorter than if fresh oil was put in.
 

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You weren't being shot, just the statement being pointed out for being terse. We're very aware that Jaguar state some major components are "sealed for life" but don't define "life". The manufacturer of a components, such as ZF, state the fluid should be periodically changed. Up to you if you wish to adhere to Jaguar's recommendations.... Personally, I think Jaguar have just decided that they'll simplify their servicing by saying some bits don't need it, such as the gearbox, and so don't need to offer the service procedure, knowing it'll be out of warranty when it fails and down to the customer to pay for a new unit.
 

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What you have to remember it's not me but the Jaguar mechanic that said it, so don't shoot the messenger Wilf.
Apologies if it came over that way, but it wasn't intended to be a criticism of you, but of JLR. As stated above, for example ZF recommend (and so do BMW with the same 'boxes) regular oil changes, yet JLR stick to the ridiculous "sealed for life" BS. Can't imagine why other than to show lower servicing costs to fleet managers, and hang private owners.
 

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With the DL501 transmission, there is a 40k service option for the DSG fluid and external filter but it's not a mandatory part of the official service schedule so like it says it is actually "optional". Therefore, if it's not done it will not effect the service history, despite being a well known and critical task because it is the clutches and mechatronic unit section of the transmission.

But along similar lines to the whole "sealed for life" thing, there's also an internal filter/strainer right underneath the DSG transmission pan and is officially considered as a non-service item. However, the filter can be ordered as an individual part easily enough.

The gears, centre diff and front diff form the other part of the transmission and take a different type of fluid. As far as I'm aware there is no service schedule for this and same applies to the rear diff. All fluids and filters are finite as far as I'm concerned.
 

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At your mileage I would not flush the oil. Try to slacken the level plug. If the engine is not running, oil will come out of the level plug. If the oil is very dark and smells of burning tighten up the plug and leave it alone. If it looks just a bit dark and does not smell of burning then order the kit with oil and sump about £250.
Warm up the car then remove the drain plug, try to measure how much oil has come out. Remove the sump and replace with new one. You will need to buy a device like a big syringe to refill. Fill until oil runs out of the level plug, gently tighten the plug and run the engine.Remove the filler plug and continue filling with with the engine running with the syringe until oil runs out of the level plug.
If you have a icarsoft or similar watch the temperature don't be too pragmatic if the car was warm when you started you will be fine. The instructions say go through all the gears before tightening the level plug. You may find you can not get past second or third. If not run the engine at 2000 rpm for 30 seconds or so until the gearbox warning on the dash goes out.
Run the engine for a Minuit or so or go for a short drive, then with the engine running re check the level, by all means monitor the temp if possible. 'Job done, you will notice a difference. I did.
 

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At your mileage I would not flush the oil. Try to slacken the level plug. If the engine is not running, oil will come out of the level plug. If the oil is very dark and smells of burning tighten up the plug and leave it alone. If it looks just a bit dark and does not smell of burning then order the kit with oil and sump about £250.
Warm up the car then remove the drain plug, try to measure how much oil has come out. Remove the sump and replace with new one. You will need to buy a device like a big syringe to refill. Fill until oil runs out of the level plug, gently tighten the plug and run the engine.Remove the filler plug and continue filling with with the engine running with the syringe until oil runs out of the level plug.
If you have a icarsoft or similar watch the temperature don't be too pragmatic if the car was warm when you started you will be fine. The instructions say go through all the gears before tightening the level plug. You may find you can not get past second or third. If not run the engine at 2000 rpm for 30 seconds or so until the gearbox warning on the dash goes out.
Run the engine for a Minuit or so or go for a short drive, then with the engine running re check the level, by all means monitor the temp if possible. 'Job done, you will notice a difference. I did.
Thank you very much for that, I appreciate it.
regards
billy
 
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