Its that time of year again, well its past that time of year it's been only 5k miles but nearly 18 months since my last oil change.
I've gone on the internet to buy my normal go to oil - Castrol Edge 5W20 and I can't buy it anywhere. I can buy every other variant of it but not 5W20.
Is there an alternative that meets the correct spec or is there a location I'm missing
Thanks for the reply guys, I always used Edge due to it having the correct WSS-M2C925 spec on the bottle.
I'm not sure what other grades meet this spec you can't just buy any old 5W20 oil
I just popped the car specs into Opie Oils, but for me my reg pulls the correct spec oil so I'd presume the same for yours. Easy enough to check the results which are returned.
I have rarely taken any notice of car manufacturer recommended oil brands - it is a commercial relationship, not a technical one. So long as an oil complies with the relevant spec, it will be good to use. Price is nowt to do with it, spec is all.
Agreed.
I have never ever ever used Castrol in my XFS, XFR or F-Type despite the JLR recommended oil, and I have never ever ever had an oil related engine problem!
Insurers don't insist on specific brands of tyre, just the correct type, size, and load rating, and of course in a safe/legal condition. Same thing with oils! i.e. it is the spec that counts, not the brand.
Yes but there have been issues previously because people have written about them on Piston Heads on Bimmer and on Merc Forums and particularly on a Porsche Forum that I am a member of. No way would I ever risk it, too much agg for the sake of a few pounds.
Interesting thought, if Jaguar blamed the oil for a catastrophic engine failure because it wasn't Castrol, then would Jaguar not be leaving themselves open to be used by the customer with a claim against the non-Castrol brand of oil? And if not that, then would that not then leave Jaguar open to be sued by the non-Castrol brand of oil for libel, the outcome of which would still always be in the favour of the customer because whoever loses will be responsible for the engine damage!
I have to agree with Wilf, Kim and others. As much as Jaguar recommend Castrol (and that’s what I use for top ups) at my last service with Sturgess they used Petronas oil that matched the older 5122 spec.
When I was calling my local dealers for a top up bottle, MK were selling the newer Castrol 5006 whereas Watford and Staples Corner were selling Mobil 1 (5122).
I found the same with VAG dealerships previously, they just buy whatever they can get at the cheapest price as long as it’s to spec.
Phoenix Honda in Glasgow put standard 5W30 in everything. I asked what oil they'd put in my 2.4i Accord and they said it would be the 5W30, apparently overhead nozzles they use pump the exact amount required from storage tanks. Only problem is that the 2.4i Accord demanded 0W20. A little disappointing but it just added another nail in the main dealership coffin.
Didn't Toyota in America specify that only their oil from their dealerships can be used in one of their cars, might have been a Hybrid, and if you don't then they wouldn't cover any warranty? I can't remember exactly but I'm sure I read that due to competition laws or something Toyota were forced to provide the oil to customers for free.
Perhaps, I can’t recall seeing it, but precisely my point, monopolisation isn’t allowed which is why they were forced to provide it I imagine. Although US law may not be exactly the same... there were revisions to it in the UK focusing on leases, as it has become much more popular it became apparent that dealers were forcing cars to be maintained by themselves, so it was corrected.
From what I can see in previous posts, JLR also provided free oil top ups on the XFR in its infancy. Perhaps this was why, but that’s conjecture
How the hell would the dealer or anyone know what brand of oil you've put in the engine. Surely any analysis could only determine the characteristics and rheology. Not whether it was Shell or Castrol or whatever.
How the hell would the dealer or anyone know what brand of oil you've put in the engine. Surely any analysis could only determine the characteristics and rheology. Not whether it was Shell or Castrol or whatever.
When they’d ask for proof of work being carried out and that the parts used met the required specification. Quite how practicable that is for most, I think it’s probably not and what manufacturers rely on.
As if you approached them to pay for the fault you’d have to have at least reasonable proof that it was their fault for the failure. Outside of the warranty you’d basically have to categorically prove it was their fault, and I sincerely doubt that would be possible with all of the variables that exist.
In a warranty claim, depending on the coverage of the warranty, you’d still likely be questioned in regards to the maintenance of the car.
I have read that the special Castrol Unobtainium has a purple dye in it and that is how JLR dealerships and workshops can tell if it or something else is in the engine.
I came across this interesting article and it made me think of this thread. Could Jaguar changing the required oil from 5W20 to 0W20 have anything to do with the timing chain issues in that the lower viscosity oil gets to the hydraulic tensioner quicker at startup?
I have read that this is the exact reason for the change.
But before that I read it was to eke out an extra mpg or two on the CAFE and EU fuel economy lab tests.
As Pete says it makes SFA difference 99.99% of the time and it's only at ambient temps below around 20 F (in other words really fecking cold) that it helps with lubrication of the timing chains and tensioners.
One reason I have never put 0W-20 and only ever put 5W-20 in my XFR and F-Type - it never gets anywhere near that cold here.
The difference in time that the two oils take to get to the timing chains (upon start up) will have a less than negligible difference to the wear in said timing chains issues..
There is no oil on this planet that will completely drain to the bottom of the sump.. even over a prolonged period...
There will always be a slight amount left on surfaces.. no matter how small.. and it makes the difference between a dry surface or not in terms of lubrication...
Stop searching the interweb for ways of having a problem that you don't have...
I'm not sure I get the point of your last sentence. Anyway, the part of the article which caught my attention wasn't about lubricating but about the hydraulic tensioner:
"Another source of timing chain problems is oil of the wrong viscosity or specifications. A lower viscosity oil will flow faster than a heavier oil, especially when cold. Engine designers specify lower viscosity oil to promote quicker flow. Many engines with timing chains now specify 0W20 oil viscosity. Quickly pressurizing the hydraulic tensioner keeps the chain tight and reduces guide breakage."
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