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I had a go at this washer pump wire thing this evening and the solder heat shrink butt connectors were crap and didn't provide a very strong connection, well not enough for me to be confident. Also, the heat shrink didn't seem to grip the copper wire well enough either and the solder seemed to grip around the wire rather than work its way through it, so you'd still have uninterrupted strands running all the way and therefore still a risk of capillary action.

Another thing to take into consideration for anyone trying this is that the OEM wires only just reach, so splicing into them can reduce the length and cause a problem with the connector reaching the pump. It can be made even worse depending on what connectors you use because it bends against the washer bottle.

I ended up inserting some new wires to increase the length and terminated each wire with bootlace ferrules which creates a pretty tight clamp, I then used regular butt connectors. So each wire has four bootlace ferrules and two butt connectors to get through, plus more anti-moisture paste in the pump socket and all connections wrapped with electrical tape and then heat shrink over the each section of joins.

If water wicks through all that then I think Jaguar will have some explaining to do. I didn't bother with the other wires, they are all very tight and I'd had enough for one evening because I still had my damn brake pad sensor to look at. Still haven't readdressed my door seals either.

To finish the evening off, some little ***** threw a stone at my living window for no reason other than to be bad, was bloody loud and has left a slight chip. Couldn't chase them as my wife was out and the children were in but the little pricks didn't realise my dashcam was still rolling in my car and they walked right past it. The Police think they know who they are, who ironically showed up a few minutes later because the neighbour across the road saw someone outside my window with a torch and called them (it was me inspecting the window haha). I saw the little shits debating doing something to the neighbour's car but they chose my window instead. When I checked the footage I wasn't surprised at what I saw.


View attachment 176314
Glad you got your washer wires sorted Graham.

As for the young scroates - I'm betting they'd be the first to call foul if anything was done to them - ar5eholes!
 
Oh yes, aren't they always. They hate the police but are the first to call upon them when the tables are turned!

I'll possibly revisit the wiring over summer if I come across anymore info with regard to the other wires being a problem.
 
I seem to remember a game for the Nintendo Wii.

Essentially, you were a young Glasgow lout and you had to travel around the local area breaking windows / scratching cars etc. I think it was called 'Wii Bastard'......
 
I seem to remember a game for the Nintendo Wii.

Essentially, you were a young Glasgow lout and you had to travel around the local area breaking windows / scratching cars etc. I think it was called 'Wii Bastard'......
Very good:D
 
They look good Graham.. do you have a link please?
 
Aye here we go: https://www.screwfix.com/p/ideal-in-sure-2-port-push-in-wire-connectors-pack-of-100/50427

I was initially looking at these ones but I think they all do the same thing. I also quite like the look of these ones as I think they are reusable, although a little expensive.

Was quite surprised at the choice available, there's probably better stuff out there but this came about from me fixing my mother-in-law's doorbell and tracing the wiring back to find someone previously had used a lot of twist together with electrical tape and also chocolate block with barely a few strands of wire being clamped down on. It got me thinking about the capillary action with my car as well and decent alternatives to butt connectors, especially for the wires which are so tight I don't think I'd get my crimping tool in there.

https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/cable-connectors/cat7230015#category=cat7230015
 
Nice link John.. :cool:


Does anyone have the part number for the sportbrake washer pump?..
 
Hi Alex

For what it’s worth, I have been hit with the same issue on my 2012 ( facelifted ) XF. I’ve a separate thread on this, but in summary, I was able to solder the affected pins ( sitting on Junction C5 in the central fuse box). With a little further assistance from Michael (08292), was able to sort a final issue on the DRLs. Total expense? Beer money for my nephew for his soldering skills...
Hi. Carried out the soldering fix. This cured everything but the Drl still stays on, you said there was a final issue with the Drl? How did you repair it?
Thanks.
Neil.
 
Hi. Carried out the soldering fix. This cured everything but the Drl still stays on, you said there was a final issue with the Drl? How did you repair it?
Thanks.
Neil.
Hi Neil, and welcome. After I sorted the water ingress issue/soldering problem, the light remained intermittently haphazard for a while. But when I was programming the seats via Michael, he noticed a number of errors via the SDD. cleared the errors, saved everything, and its rock solid since.
PC
 
Hi Everyone, new member here. I have a 2014 XFS Sportbrake and had the low washer fluid level warning when the resevoir was full. After a bit of research I have found corrosion on the pins of the C7 connector on the CJB. It doesn't look too bad so hopefully I have caught it early. I have ordered a replacement pump and intend to put some splices into the wiring loom imminently.

My question is regarding removal of the CJB. I would quite like to remove it and have a proper look at the connector and board to see if there is any further damage but I am concerned that it will require some programming when reinstalled? The workshop manual instructions for removal and installation are to remove the battery and upon reinstallation to 'configure CJB with diagnostic tool'. Will this really be necessary as I dont have a diagnostic tool for my Jaguar currently. If I can safely remove it and reinstall it that would be great.

Many thanks
 
Hi Adam and welcome.
I haven’t read that part in the workshop manual, and it baffles me why this would be stated.
From an electronic point of view once the power is removed from a pcb (and any capacitors are bled down to drain them) you can do what you want.
BUT given some xf seem to corrupt some chips on pcbs I’d play safe by unlocking the car close all doors open boot and wait 15 mins (so all modules are shutdown and not chatting over the canbus)
Then disconnect the battery then you‘re free to whip out the cjb
reverse the process and the cjb will just ‘see’ it as a battery change for instance
 
Hi Adam and welcome.
I haven’t read that part in the workshop manual, and it baffles me why this would be stated.
From an electronic point of view once the power is removed from a pcb (and any capacitors are bled down to drain them) you can do what you want.
BUT given some xf seem to corrupt some chips on pcbs I’d play safe by unlocking the car close all doors open boot and wait 15 mins (so all modules are shutdown and not chatting over the canbus)
Then disconnect the battery then you‘re free to whip out the cjb
reverse the process and the cjb will just ‘see’ it as a battery change for instance
Thanks for that, I figured the same myself although I'm naive to modern automotive electrical systems. Regarding having the boot open, is the that same being that mines a sport brake and has a powered tailgate? Cheers.
 
Thanks for that, I figured the same myself although I'm naive to modern automotive electrical systems. Regarding having the boot open, is the that same being that mines a sport brake and has a powered tailgate? Cheers.
Yes , it’s basically so the cars’ modules shutdown and obv you need the boot open get to the battery.
Its a small risk but a risk nevertheless
 
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