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Good to know thanks, I'm going to check today. I may still address this properly just for piece of mind as I use my washers a lot.
My take on this is as follows.
1. the pump body splits
2. washer fluid is forced into the stranded flexible cable
3.due to osmosis or capillary action washer fluid seeps into the cjb.
Why does the pump body split.
Pump bodies split mainly due to excessive pressure or freezing. Freezing is obvious.
Pressure can build up due to obstructions in the fluid paths. Help avoid this by thoroughly cleaning the tank by removing pump which is simple, then flush the whole system with hot water. Then refill with good quality screen wash.
Then splice the cable leading from the pump preferably solder the ends.
 
Good to know thanks, I'm going to check today. I may still address this properly just for piece of mind as I use my washers a lot.
Pretty sure that it's never been recorded as a fault on the XF Sportbrake Graham.. don't forget our system is different as we have a rear wash also...
 
Well I think the original posters Sportbrake's CJB fell victim to this and on closer inspection to my CJB there does appear to be a previous sign of water being pushed up the wire. I think poor quality pumps are to blame. I have never had this issue on any other car I have owned. I have inserted two sets of wire connectors to ensure that there is no further issue on mine. I wish Jaguar used another supplier for their windscreen pumps.
 

Attachments

I'm not so sure that we definitely know that it was a CJB fault due to water ingress though Kenny.. in post three was a link to the original thread Alex started: https://www.jaginfo.org/showthread.php?106542-Help-XF-2-2diesel-Sportbrake-2013-Intermittent-non-start-warning-light-Parking-Brak

Post 11 in that thread doesn't fill me full of trust in the diagnosis from the "jaguar back street specialist", also Alex never concluded either of the threads and I'm pretty positive that no-one else on here has ever had that problem on a Sportbrake..

I'm also pretty sure that this very issue of whether anyone has ever heard/read anywhere else that Sportbrakes suffer this issue has been discussed.. and the answer has been that no-one has ever seen it mentioned/talked about else where.




However.. relying on my memory really isn't the wisest of choices in this world... :D
 
Washer pump splits, intake manifolds split, intercooler splits, rear wiring loom splits.... I bet the common door lock problem is probably due to the plastic actuator splitting! Maybe some gaffer tape is needed.
 
I've been meaning to make a further contribution to this thread and I hope the following helps in some way. I took the water pump of my car only to discover it was in perfect order. I had however ordered a new pump in anticipation of changing it for the original. Obviously I had an opportunity to take the original pump apart to discover the inner workings. I can tell you categorically the Jaguar pump only distinguishes itself from (at least some) others by virtue of a rubber seal that fits over/seals the electrical connections. This seal becomes compressed when the male part of the pump connection is pushed onto the female socket and presumably this helps assure a seal. In all other respects it is all but identical to just about every other pump I have seen. That's not to say there isn't a difference at one critical location and namely the pump seal. This is simply an o ring of sorts which sits in the housing just above the impeller as shown in “Pic 5” and “Pic 7”. In practice there may well be grades of seal better than others and just perhaps some seals are more compatible with screen wash than others. To be honest even with a failure of this seal I'd be very surprised that water can migrate past the previously mentioned electrical connection seal on the basis if water were to pass the impeller seal then it would come into direct contact with a dc motor and would surely cause a short circuit. Therefore I'm struggling to accept the diagnosis of water travelling via capillary action because in theory the moment it passes the seal the motor should cease to operate. Please see following the photographs to understand my conclusion.

BTW and as an aside the pump on my BMW failed shortly after I took the below pics. The pump was then 11 years old and was in a dire state but it was all but identical to the Jag pump bar the electrical seal as mentioned above. It appeared to have been leaking through the seal which incidentally was clearly degraded and I suspect minute amounts of water had passed promoting rust on the motor casing. I should also add the pump simply stopped working and given that water had come into contact with a dc motor then should I be surprised. I'm sure the same thing would and should happen with a Jag pump.
Now seeing the inner workings/construction of the pump I’m not quite sure how Jaguar can charge the price they do. In reality a £10 ( or less ) pump would perform just as well and from what I could make of it Vauxhall and some Fords use the same pump as Jag and supply it in exchange for peanuts. I can’t say whether these model include for the additional electrical seal which I should also say I believe is to stop water getting in rather than out. Seeing what I saw annoys me intensely when I know (as ever) Jaguar are shafting at every opportunity, I mean seriously £90 for a pump that cost them a fiver at the most!

EDIT
Seems from further research a brushless dc motor can and will run under water without any issues other than eventual corrosion of the motor. Must admit this surprised me but I still doubt water can travel along the solid electrical pins on the motor, through the female receptors in the male socket connection and thence via capillary action along the wiring.

Pic 1: The pump as removed from the car

Cylinder Auto part Pipe


Pic 2: The pump electrical socket

Technology Electronic device Space


Pic 3: The rubber seal on the electical connections within the pump socket

Blue Water Asphalt Metal


Pic 4: The pumps electrical connections

Technology Wire Auto part Electronic device


Pic 5: The business end of the pump showing the impeller

Auto part


Pic 6: Another view of the innards

Auto part Technology Electronic device Automotive starter motor


Pic 7: The housing containg the pump seal situated above the impeller. This is the critical component

Auto part Wheel


Pic 8: Another view with the seal hosing removed

Auto part


Pic 9: The seal hosing with the critical component (rubber seal) all lubed with rubber grease and ready for re-install

Blue Water Red Electric blue Glass
 
I've been meaning to make a further contribution to this thread and I hope the following helps in some way. I took the water pump of my car only to discover it was in perfect order. I had however ordered a new pump in anticipation of changing it for the original. Obviously I had an opportunity to take the original pump apart to discover the inner workings. I can tell you categorically the Jaguar pump only distinguishes itself from (at least some) others by virtue of a rubber seal that fits over/seals the electrical connections. This seal becomes compressed when the male part of the pump connection is pushed onto the female socket and presumably this helps assure a seal. In all other respects it is all but identical to just about every other pump I have seen. That's not to say there isn't a difference at one critical location and namely the pump seal. This is simply an o ring of sorts which sits in the housing just above the impeller as shown in “Pic 5” and “Pic 7”. In practice there may well be grades of seal better than others and just perhaps some seals are more compatible with screen wash than others. To be honest even with a failure of this seal I'd be very surprised that water can migrate past the previously mentioned electrical connection seal on the basis if water were to pass the impeller seal then it would come into direct contact with a dc motor and would surely cause a short circuit. Therefore I'm struggling to accept the diagnosis of water travelling via capillary action because in theory the moment it passes the seal the motor should cease to operate. Please see following the photographs to understand my conclusion.

BTW and as an aside the pump on my BMW failed shortly after I took the below pics. The pump was then 11 years old and was in a dire state but it was all but identical to the Jag pump bar the electrical seal as mentioned above. It appeared to have been leaking through the seal which incidentally was clearly degraded and I suspect minute amounts of water had passed promoting rust on the motor casing. I should also add the pump simply stopped working and given that water had come into contact with a dc motor then should I be surprised. I'm sure the same thing would and should happen with a Jag pump.
Now seeing the inner workings/construction of the pump I’m not quite sure how Jaguar can charge the price they do. In reality a £10 ( or less ) pump would perform just as well and from what I could make of it Vauxhall and some Fords use the same pump as Jag and supply it in exchange for peanuts. I can’t say whether these model include for the additional electrical seal which I should also say I believe is to stop water getting in rather than out. Seeing what I saw annoys me intensely when I know (as ever) Jaguar are shafting at every opportunity, I mean seriously £90 for a pump that cost them a fiver at the most!


Pic 1: The pump as removed from the car

View attachment 175388

Pic 2: The pump electrical socket

View attachment 175390

Pic 3: The rubber seal on the electical connections within the pump socket

View attachment 175392

Pic 4: The pumps electrical connections

View attachment 175394

Pic 5: The business end of the pump showing the impeller

View attachment 175396

Pic 6: Another view of the innards

View attachment 175398

Pic 7: The housing containg the pump seal situated above the impeller. This is the critical component

View attachment 175400

Pic 8: Another view with the seal hosing removed

View attachment 175402

Pic 9: The seal hosing with the critical component (rubber seal) all lubed with rubber grease and ready for re-install

View attachment 175404
With you on that Brian
 
Just found my DRL stuck on this evening - or rather my wife went “your lights are on”
Tried everything and then goigle led me to here!!

As it is night I have put my CTEK on (showed batterylow) and I have ripped out the triim round the fuse box in the drivers footwell and pulled the grey connector out at the back. DRL is off now and the car still locks which is a bonus as I need the car for commuting to work
 
Removed my CJB today and disassembled it inside. No damage on the board that I can see. Cleaned the pins and will be putting some grease into it. Changing the pump tomorrow after refitting the CJB
 
I'm sure I saw somewhere there's a technical bulletin for this. Does anyone have its number or even better the technical bulletin itself?
 
I'm sure someone mentioned in the Facebook comments that the TSB didn't cover the Sportbrake, despite it now being confirmed as suffering from it as well. I'm still uncertain if there is an actual revised part which solves this, some have commented that there is though. I'm just going to break the wires and rejoin for peace of mind.
 
Just had another little acrobatic session in my passenger footwell and inspected my connector. I really hope I'm not jinxing anything but one year later things still look pristine in there.
 
Just had another little acrobatic session in my passenger footwell and inspected my connector. I really hope I'm not jinxing anything but one year later things still look pristine in there.
Mine appears to be looking fine as well, but I have no idea how fast it could corrode if it starts to happen. I just want peace of mind for a while until the next issue! haha
 
Yep I still intend to also have a good look behind the arch liner at some point. It’s still unclear whether changing for a new pump makes any sense, right?
 
Hi everyone

I have reported this to DVSA who want to know more information. I have created an online form to collect information from people who have suffered - or indeed people who have proactively changed the pump - the more people that fill it in the better chance we have of getting things rectified and maybe even refunds for people who have paid a lot of money when it should have been covered

https://form.jotform.com/200363213843042

It is all encrypted and will be removed once information is supplied to DVSA
 
I had a go at this washer pump wire thing this evening and the solder heat shrink butt connectors were crap and didn't provide a very strong connection, well not enough for me to be confident. Also, the heat shrink didn't seem to grip the copper wire well enough either and the solder seemed to grip around the wire rather than work its way through it, so you'd still have uninterrupted strands running all the way and therefore still a risk of capillary action.

Another thing to take into consideration for anyone trying this is that the OEM wires only just reach, so splicing into them can reduce the length and cause a problem with the connector reaching the pump. It can be made even worse depending on what connectors you use because it bends against the washer bottle.

I ended up inserting some new wires to increase the length and terminated each wire with bootlace ferrules which creates a pretty tight clamp, I then used regular butt connectors. So each wire has four bootlace ferrules and two butt connectors to get through, plus more anti-moisture paste in the pump socket and all connections wrapped with electrical tape and then heat shrink over the each section of joins.

If water wicks through all that then I think Jaguar will have some explaining to do. I didn't bother with the other wires, they are all very tight and I'd had enough for one evening because I still had my damn brake pad sensor to look at. Still haven't readdressed my door seals either.

To finish the evening off, some little ***** threw a stone at my living window for no reason other than to be bad, was bloody loud and has left a slight chip. Couldn't chase them as my wife was out and the children were in but the little pricks didn't realise my dashcam was still rolling in my car and they walked right past it. The Police think they know who they are, who ironically showed up a few minutes later because the neighbour across the road saw someone outside my window with a torch and called them (it was me inspecting the window haha). I saw the little shits debating doing something to the neighbour's car but they chose my window instead. When I checked the footage I wasn't surprised at what I saw.


Black Darkness Light Night Lighting
 
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