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Purchased the OEM pumps - both windscreen and headlamp.
Definitely the old pump was leaking and based on that I had a look at the CJB expecting the worse but to my surprise 3 wires were already modified as per the Service Bulletin by Jaguar (prior to the car purchase). I assume the pump was replaced as well.

This could mean that even the modified pumps could leak as well...!?

Still can't find where the water leaks from the top. So my plan was to extend the sensor wires and create a loop for the water to drip off and not getting to the plug but they are too short and will need to think about it a bit more. In the meantime I put some silicone sealant on the wires to creat a drip off point before the plug... hope it will work till a a permanent solution.
 

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The water travels up the inside of the cable from the windscreen washer pump, along the path of the copper stands. Putting a loop in the cables won't help, hence the cable connectors are added to make a water break.
 

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The capillary issue has been sorted out. The next problem is water coming down from the top.
All the wiring behind the wheel arch gets wet on the outside.
This is why the water level sensor plug got corroded.
 

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Hi, I currently have a 2014 XF Sportbrake with this water ingress fault. The issue for me is that it is causing the radio to stop and start, doesn’t matter whether I’m listening to DAB, Bluetooth media or on the phone it does it. It also causes the dsc light and adaptive suspension light to come on but these go off when the car is turned off and don’t come back for weeks at a time. Had it diagnosed as being corrosion on the pins for the amplifier. New CJB and washer pump required.
Has anyone that’s had this issue replaced the CJB with a used one? Is it even possible?
Thanks
 

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Hi, I currently have a 2014 XF Sportbrake with this water ingress fault. The issue for me is that it is causing the radio to stop and start, doesn’t matter whether I’m listening to DAB, Bluetooth media or on the phone it does it. It also causes the dsc light and adaptive suspension light to come on but these go off when the car is turned off and don’t come back for weeks at a time. Had it diagnosed as being corrosion on the pins for the amplifier. New CJB and washer pump required.
Has anyone that’s had this issue replaced the CJB with a used one? Is it even possible?
Thanks
Not for the home mechanic without access to component level chip programming hardware, I believe. You can't take a used one and just plug it in, if that's what you're hoping for. You can't order a brand new one and just plug it in either, that would still require programming via SDD. If yours is working intermittently, then it's still working and there's a good chance it can be saved. You need to remove it, and repair the corrosion to the pins and the board, the cables and the plugs too. Then also modify the washer pump wire harness to dry it out and block further water travel. If you don't take this action, you'll need a new CJB and will still need the plugs, looms and modification to be done else the fault will destroy the new one, in time.
 

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So, recently I had to replace my non-return valve on the windscreen washers. For a week or so I ran the system without the NRV and it worked fine. When I received the new NRV in the post I had a fiddle with it to work out which way the flow went (it was an inline one) as it had no markings on it. Anyway I tried to blow through it but couldn't. It was only until I stuck a blunt rod down one end did I work out which way the flow went. So, I've stuck it in the car, and it works fine.

But.... my point is that I don't even think it's necessary, and if anything puts undue back pressure on the system, promoting the CJB issue.

I'm going to take mine out. What's the worst thing that can happen?
 

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A delay to get water from your washer jets I'd guess.
 

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A delay to get water from your washer jets I'd guess.
Well, perhaps, but I didn't notice any delay. The wash was instant.

I couldn't blow through it at all. In reality all it needs is the slightest of spring pressure to close the valve, but this was very strong, and as mentioned, to my mind, unneccessary.
 

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The wipers sit in a potential low pressure zone just below the lip of the bonnet so the valve may be there to prevent the venturi effect draining the bottle?
 

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Well, perhaps, but I didn't notice any delay. The wash was instant.

I couldn't blow through it at all. In reality all it needs is the slightest of spring pressure to close the valve, but this was very strong, and as mentioned, to my mind, unneccessary.
Certainly for the T piece non return valves the proper Jaguar one is much more lightly sprung than the 3rd party alternative ones.
 

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Perhaps worth considering a febi pump see this post for part number ( or further up that thread if you have a sportbrake), as it appears they make them for ford so are probably reasonable quality, don't forget to put waterproof splices in the wires.
In case it is of use to anyone wishing to avoid expensive damage to the CJB I can add a bit to the above having just replaced the screenwash pump on my 2013 XFR.

Hoping to avoid paying full Jaguar price for a new pump I checked the Febi (part of Bilstein) website which indicates that the correct replacement for the XF/XFR saloon was their part number 109270. The Febi part number mentioned in the thread xf_phil links to above is 34864 the Febi website stating that this is for Ford and Volvo. I emailed Febi to ask whether either pump was identical to the modified JLR pump C2Z30987 or the unmodified original C2Z8869 and whether I could use the Febi pump 34864 which is cheaper than their 109270. The relevant part of their reply reads (my emphasis in bold):

With regard to our article 109270, which fulfills the use of C2Z8869, I can say that this is 1:1 to the original part and therefore there is no improvement.
Unfortunately, we cannot offer a pump that fulfills the application C2Z30987. In this case we do not have an improved variant in our product portfolio.
The febi 34864 pump has only been used by Ford and Volvo. We can only advise against misusing this pump for your Jaguar.


All these pumps (and also the Blueprint version "adj130302") appear identical on the outside. The cheaper Febi pump can be picked up for less than £10 but in view of Febi's reply I forked out for the genuine, allegedly improved, Jaguar one from my local dealer (total cost £84.95 after a 10% discount). I was initially a bit disconcerted to see that the legend embossed on the new pump was identical to the old one I was replacing: "FICO TRANSPAR Made in China PA26 - GB25 12V" but in a smaller font, however on inspection the pins in the socket of the new pump are cylindrical rather than flat and are surrounded with additional packing which I hope is what will prevent water wicking back up the wires.

I have owned this car for over five years and have not had any CJB-related problems on it but having experienced the issue on a late 2011 pre-facelift XFS I don't want a repeat (although the XFS was repaired at the cost of JLR, luckily for me). Installing the new pump was straightforward and ideally I would have installed a water blocking splice as well but, not being a mechanic, mucking about with wiring makes me nervous.

The pins on the old pump had greenish corrosion so the swap was probably worth doing. An added benefit is much-stronger screen washing.
 
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A good update Nick, thanks for that.

I think you're the first person to say about this issue with a pre-facelift?

You might not be mechanically/electrically minded enough to be inclined put a splice in yourself but you really should get it done, it'll be a lot cheaper than a CJB replacement..

@idrobbo recently(ish) mentioned a Jaguar specialist nearish you, I think out Honiton way?.. hopefully he'll chime in soon and provide the details, however a local member may be able to help out or any good local independent garage that can do electrics properly should be able to do it for not much money.
 
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LPAutotech, Honiton.
 
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I think you're the first person to say about this issue with a pre-facelift?

You might not be mechanically/electrically minded enough to be inclined put a splice in yourself but you really should get it done, it'll be a lot cheaper than a CJB replacement..

@idrobbo recently(ish) mentioned a Jaguar specialist nearish you, I think out Honiton way?.. hopefully he'll chime in soon and provide the details, however a local member may be able to help out or any good local independent garage that can do electrics properly should be able to do it for not much money.
I have seen a report on another forum of a pre-facelift XF with the CJB issue but it's odd that there seem to be very few, and the JLR tech bulletin refers only to cars years 2012-2015. My XFS was a late (2011) pre-facelift so perhaps Jaguar made some amendment to the pump and/or wiring shortly before the model change and that has caused the problem?
And thanks to idrobbo for mentioning LP Autotech. Going by their website they seem to deal mainly with pre-XF cars but presumably they should be able to cope with a water splice. The JLR pump is guaranteed for two years so I may keep my fingers crossed and rely on that for a year or so.
 
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I spliced mine, not difficult.
 

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Same here, I spliced a small length of solid core for each wire and used push fit connectors all sealed up with a heat shrink. At least I think I did, I may have used bullet type connectors in the end.


Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle


Automotive lighting Font Rectangle Packaging and labeling Auto part
 

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Same here, I spliced a small length of solid core for each wire and used push fit connectors all sealed up with a heat shrink. At least I think I did, I may have used bullet type connectors in the end.


View attachment 192976

View attachment 192977
Thanks for the pics. When I changed the pump I wasn't sure how to get enough access to the wiring to fit the splice but that looks easy enough, so perhaps I'll have a go.
 
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Good luck Nick, it's not as bad as it seems, you can either take the easy route and take the front right wheel and wheel arch liner off/out, or struggle a bit more and just turn the steering wheel fully right and then 'peel' the liner back out of the way.. though I'd recommend removing the screws and bolts for the liner first... ;)
 
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