Hi guys, I have a 2013 Sportbrake with the above fault, that’s going to cost me over a grand to fix, my question is shouldn’t Jaguar stump up the bill for this as they know about this problem? Any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated 👍
Hi guys, I have a 2013 Sportbrake with the above fault, that’s going to cost me over a grand to fix, my question is shouldn’t Jaguar stump up the bill for this as they know about this problem? Any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated ��
Two questions - i) how long have you had the vehicle and ii) what is the service history? Jaguar itself has no legal liability but the supplying dealer may be liable under the sale of goods or consumer rights acts (depending on when purchased).
Probably worth getting in touch with EH quoting sections 9 and 10 of the CRA to them. It. seems you problem relates to a design/build issue rather than wear and tear and so opening the way for an argument that the car was not fit for purpose/of satistactory quality. They will probably not want to listen but the small claims court is fairly simple to use.
It's only the pumps on the facelift models that are failing, jaguar will only fix for free if there is still an approved warranty on the car. Of course the gradual deterioration peaks just at the end of normal warranty. Earlier face lift models are failing in greater numbers now and most cars will suffer eventually unless preventative action is taken. This is as simple as changing to the new upgraded pump before the corrosion gets into the CJB or risk a hefty bill. The new improved oe pump is around £70 and less than 1hr DIY, so a worthwhile fix. I did my 64 plate last year before the pump failed, even though it is still under approved warranty.
If Jaguar have been servicing the car it might be worth contacting Jaguar CR and push for a contribution given it's a known fault.
For what it’s worth, I have been hit with the same issue on my 2012 ( facelifted ) XF. I’ve a separate thread on this, but in summary, I was able to solder the affected pins ( sitting on Junction C5 in the central fuse box). With a little further assistance from Michael (08292), was able to sort a final issue on the DRLs. Total expense? Beer money for my nephew for his soldering skills...
This is the OE part number C2Z30987 about £65+vat there is also an after market available which is C2Z30987A about £40+vat. I got mine online from Justjags they do both but I paid the extra just in case lol! It came in a Jag box from France but the pump was made in China as was the one I took off
Dont buy other part numbers offered on ebay etc they are the ones we are removing. If you want to check for a leak pull the C5 connector which is the Top Left one in the CJB the affected area will be inside, the bottom pins more often than not. Also if you hang the pulled lead down you may see water drip from it. If everything is A ok do yourself a favour and change the pump, could save you £1,500 it's a good time to clean the filter behind while you are at it.
I had this problem on a pre-facelift XFS resulting in various weird symptoms - including the glove box flying open and hitting any passenger on the knees every time I pressed the washer button
However the CJB needed repair rather than complete replacement so whether they would have covered that major expense had it been necessary, I don't know. But it does appear to be a design issue which is well known so it could well be worth your contacting CRC to make your case although it may not help that your purchase and last service were not from Jaguar dealers.
Once bitten twice shy, so I asked my local dealer to check the CJB on my current XFR at the last service which they did free of charge, and all OK, but I am wondering whether to install the improved pump mentioned above before my warranty expires.
Does anyone have any pics of exactly where the CJB and wiring along which the water runs are located? Started looking in the workshop manual but only have the one for the pre-facelift diesels so it may be different in my car.
If I knew where to look I would consider having a poke and perhaps doing something preventive to stop any water reaching the CJB.
The CJB is on the right of the drivers side footwell behind the fusebox cover. The culprit is the large pull out connector at the top left (C5), pull the plug out and check inside the socket for water/ corrosion, you may need to lift the chrome sill plate and ease the side trim off to get a decent view. If it's still dry in there, happy days you just need to replace the screen washer pump in the drivers side wheel arch, less than an hour and you are home and dry job done, some also install a break in the wires to stop any future water creep. But I figuered if the new pump doesn't leak why bother. If it's wet in there the saga may continue and need more action.
The pump to change is the windscreen pump not the headlight pump, it leaks out the top and pushes up the wires each time the pump is used so consequently it seems reasonable to expect higher mileage cars to suffer sooner than low. I get the impression it is more a case of when not if it will happen.
Good stuff! Will try to take a look then. I have no reason to believe my car has this issue (touch wood and I actually use the washers extremely rarely) but since it seems to be a matter of time for all cars at least some preventive measures in terms of some stops on the wiring seem wise.
Interesting thread! Is there a how-to for this? I have a 2013 facelift, no issues but would like to do this as a preventative measure! It's still under approved used warranty until the end of Feb so if there are any probs I want to get them sorted before it runs out!
I'm not sure how to get at the pump - the engine bay is pretty crowded! Or what the part no. for the revised one is?
I just went out and pulled the C5 connector out of the fuse box. No signs of corrosion or water there thankfully. I will see about getting the pump changed purely as preventative maintenance!
Tried to unplug the big plug in the CJB but realized it's quite a pig to reach and get out because of the plastic trim and footwell carpet in the way. Partially was because I didn't have enough space to open the door fully and get into the footwell at a good angle. Will give it another shot another time.
Anyway, does anyone happen to know when the pump design was revised?
It wasn't revised as far as I am aware, it looks like all X250 facelift 2011-2015 were fitted with the dodgy pump. The new part number it appears was introduced as an upgraded replacement fix for when the others failed.
The smart thing to do is replace the pump regardless of needing to check condition of the CJB, because it will either stop it happening or stop even more corrosion if already suspect.
When changing the pump be sure to clean all the gunge out of the filter in the bottle behind it, your wipers will thank you for it
The bulletin states this only affects facelift X250's but there has been mention that a classic XFR suffered the same. Does anyone know if the washer pump/bottle is the same on the classic and the facelift, i.e. does the new pump part number fit the classic if water ingress to C5 is suspected?
I think it's one of them dunno's Jaguar said it didn't apply to the Sportsbrake model but now there are reports of it happening, also some of the later pre facelift owners have had issues. So I suppose it is trying to decide when and to what the old pump was fitted to, pre 2015. If the XFR is the same set up with the location of the pump and CJB, I suppose it could be reasonable to presume they would have been fitted with the same pump. Perhaps searching for a new pump on a specific model online, with someone like justjags and seeing if the upgrade part number was offered, if so it might suggest the dodgy one was originaly fitted to that model. The Sportsbrake has an extra outlet I believe for rear wiper so it doesn't use the same pump but would appear that one isn't bullet proof.
I am under the impression that the fluid leaks out the top where the 2 wires exit the pump when under pressure from use. The new pump appears to be moulded with a better block to the water to inhibit leakage. No need for a pricey Jag spec any indy should be able to do it in 30-60mins if you supply the pump.
I did the short version when changing my pump, this required removal of the driver side front wheel. Releasing part of the inner cowl a couple of 10mm down the bottom and the push pins around the mud guard area. I was then able to pull the rear part of the cowl away to enable access to the pump connector, pump and filter which are both just pull out and push in. It's worth trying to syphon some of the fluid off first or get ready with a container to catch it. The wipers may take a few goes to bleed through but having a clean filter helps.
Something like this-: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNe_eQf-9ZU
At least my connection in the CJB looks pristine. Now I just need to decide if I want to add this job to my next service, considering that I extremely rarely use the washer.
At least my connection in the CJB looks pristine. Now I just need to decide if I want to add this job to my next service, considering that I extremely rarely use the washer.
It was quite fiddly to reach and get unplugged and I had to use a flat head screw driver to loosen and pry it out bit by bit. No idea what loses power I'm afraid, because I never turned on the ignition with it unplugged. I could just hear some electronic switch sound somewhere inside the dash when I plugged it in again.
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