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This is crazy. Any ideas?

4K views 43 replies 10 participants last post by  xf_phil 
#1 ·
Hi Guys,
My previous post Bi-Xeon by gawd has progressed to the point where I felt a new title warranted. Summarized my Bi-Xeon right side not functioning. Replaced bulb and ballast, plugged into left side all good. Right side still nothing. So, updates; took the car to two well respected European independent repair shops. First one with Snap-On diagnostic tool, the other with the Autel a more sophisticated system. Snap-On nothing of value the Autel shows power into CJB but not out. OK, seems like CJB but it looks in good shape to me, so I take it to my Authorized Jaguar Dealer here in TN. Looks to be respected and significant dealer. They say when they plugged in the left light to right the DLR did not come on (high and low beams dis) and this put CJB in safety mode. I need to purchase a complete new light assembly and then they can tell me if I will need a new CJB. HOLY COW, this could cost over $10,000! Can anybody elaborate on safety mode in CJB? Never heard this before. I plan to retry the swapping sides again, but I need help.
Thanks all,
Bond
2012 XF Portfolio
 
#2 ·
Never heard of safety mode for a CJB, but every day is a school day. I wouldn't be happy for a Jaguar main dealer to work on my car, they're more computer technicians than mechanical engineers, I'd stick with a recommended independent Jaguar specialist. You could try a full CJB reset? Disconnect the battery (if yours is a facelift, ensure you follow the correct procedure else you could be in heaps more trouble, search on here). Once disconnected, short the positive battery lead to chassis (do not short the battery terminals!), leave for another 10 mins or so, then reconnect. Can even leave all disconnected over night if you're in no rush. May not fix but worth a try.
 
#4 ·
Thanks Guys,
I just returned from the dealer and I think they are standup guys. From their computer read out; DTDs by ECU fault code B13D1-11 "Right Daytime Running Lamp and Position Power Feed-Circuit short to ground". In reviewing in my mind, the series of events I think this is the root cause. My first indication of trouble was the DLR inoperable, but high/low beams OK for several days then they went dark as well. After bulb and ballast replaced and when I connected the left side to right side, they all worked as expected, but only for a few seconds. I suspect that had I left it connected for long it might have triggered this side as well. Gut punch is new light assembly from Jaguar is $3700.00 USD. Used on Ebay, $1000.00+/- with no guarantees and look in worse condition to what I have. Not an attractive option. There is a song by the Wall Flowers, "We Can Make It Home..With One Head Light." I think I like that song.
Thanks all,
Bond
2012 XF Portfolio
 
#5 ·
$3700.00 USD? Bloody hell! Part number C2Z31436 which I think is the correct LH unit for LH drive USA car, is £1,337 UKP, including our sales tax. That currently exchanges to $1612 USD. Even with shipping and import taxes it'll be a lot less.
 
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#6 ·
I am searching now online. The new retail price is $3923.74 from a Dealer in IL USA. The part number I was told is C2Z31431 (Adaptive and I need right hand side). I am looking at one on Ebay claims new though not at dealer and has been opened for $1,100.00. Part number make sense?
Thanks
 
#33 ·
I am searching now online. The new retail price is $3923.74 from a Dealer in IL USA. The part number I was told is C2Z31431 (Adaptive and I need right hand side). I am looking at one on Ebay claims new though not at dealer and has been opened for $1,100.00. Part number make sense?
Thanks
Worth a look on ebay UK or Ireland (.ie) ?
 
#7 ·
C2Z31431 is £1559 in UKP. Part is listed as "RH,assembly. Active/adaptive headlamps,Canada,LHD,Mexico,USA".
 
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#8 ·
Replaced bulb and ballast, plugged into left side all good. Right side still nothing.
So that sounds like the fault is with the right side wiring or the CJB.

They say when they plugged in the left light to right the DLR did not come on (high and low beams dis) and this put CJB in safety mode.
Also seems to suggest right side wiring, or CJB fault. Most fault codes auto reset, but they probably would at least have to cycle the ignition, to unblock the output if a short was in the previously connected headlight cluster.

DTDs by ECU fault code B13D1-11 "Right Daytime Running Lamp and Position Power Feed-Circuit short to ground"
So the CJB built in diagnostics is reporting that the power wire shared for the right hand DRL and position light is shorted to ground, potentially it could be that it's shorted in the headlamp assembly but connecting the known good assembly to the bad side and clearing the fault codes/cycling the ignition it should work and not set the fault code again.

So that once again suggests the fault is either with the wiring, or internal to the CJB - I do wonder if they actually checked the wiring for shorts to ground as the diagnostic message suggests.

The obvious thing to do if you have access to SDD to read the codes, would be to disconnect that wire at the headlamp assembly first ( de-pin it from the connector ), and then the cjb and check if the code is still current ( or changes to an open circuit code ) after each disconnection. ( It's Green and White I believe pin 16 on the headlamp assembly connector, and pin 2 on the 20 pin grey connector at the CJB. )
 
#10 ·
Thanks, good info here. I don't have access to the SDD so I am kind of throwing Hell Mary's. I believe I may have found the cheapest new headlight assembly available in the US. At about $1000.00, and I may be the only idiot who is happy to purchase a headlight for $!000! In my diagnostic deliberations I think the DLR was somehow damaged internally creating the short. Thus, when I swapped sides, it hadn't the time required to trip the fault on the other side. Once this new unit arrives and I plug it all in, we shall see if it resets or needs to be prompted. I promise to report back.
Thanks to all who contributed!
 
#11 ·
Thanks, good info here. I don't have access to the SDD so I am kind of throwing Hell Mary's. I believe I may have found the cheapest new headlight assembly available in the US. At about $1000.00, and I may be the only idiot who is happy to purchase a headlight for $!000! In my diagnostic deliberations I think the DLR was somehow damaged internally creating the short. Thus, when I swapped sides, it hadn't the time required to trip the fault on the other side. Once this new unit arrives and I plug it all in, we shall see if it resets or needs to be prompted. I promise to report back.
Thanks to all who contributed!
How about testing the new unit on the side you know is working before you install it?
 
#12 ·
I had planned on doing exactly this, then I found "this what I considered very good deal" on a new unit. So, I reasoned that the effort and time required to further the disassembly of the left side unit was outweighed by the possibility of losing the "deal" and if indeed finding issues remaining, reselling said unit. But you're right that was the logical next step.
 
#13 ·
OK, latest update. I promised to post as soon as I progressed. Spoiler alert, still not working. Here is where I am and next steps. The Brand-New Ebay light (from Bimmersource) arrived as promised and appears in every way as new. When plugged into (right) receptacle, still no light. When plugged into left side all lights as expected. So, I removed left side light and plugged into right hand side, no work either. So, my next plan of attack is back to the local dealership for another diagnosis and/or have them do a hard reset. I don't feel confident in performing the hard reset myself and then having unintended consequences that I can't solve. Cannot get an appointment till mid next week, so will report back once this has been done. So, my new theme song.." we can make it home, on one head light"
 
#14 ·
Ok, keeping this alive though car still at the dealer. Phone call last Thursday from service writer has me questioning this authorized dealers' capabilities. He wanted to verify that I was OK if after they perform a hard reset, that I understood some things might not work! WTF? I can perform a hard reset quite easily and no doubt have some things not work! I took it in to the dealer to make sure all things would work! Also, I wanted another diagnostic printout that would verify my new headlight is no longer the problem. So, what should have been a one-day appointment is obviously now quite a bit longer. Stay tuned.
Bond
2012 XF .
 
#15 ·
What they mean is if they perform a "hard reset" they may corrupt the data in the CJB and/or other modules, a well documented issue, if they don't follow the correct procedure. I am not at all surprised by the main dealer attitude, they've clearly broken other owner's cars and are trying to shrug liability for yours.
 
#18 ·
Cutlea, so am expecting too much from a dealer with all the factory diagnosis tools to be able to reset all parameters after performing a hard rest correctly? And yes, I am considering a hard reset as draining (through whatever means Jaguar advises) power stored in the system. I can obviously open the boot and let it sit a bit and then disconnect the battery (my understanding of a safe hard reset to the layman) but it's what happens after that I wanted the dealers help for.
Hamedhdd, I have visually inspected harness and cleaned all ground wires, but all looks in good order. Only DLR and high/low beams affected.
Thanks all.
 
#19 ·
so am expecting too much from a dealer with all the factory diagnosis tools to be able to reset all parameters after performing a hard rest correctly?
Typically, a JLR main dealer doesn't understand how to fix corrupted data in the CJB, should the issue occur when the battery is disconnected (to perform the 'hard reset'). Their fix is usually to replace the CJB with a factory new unit and program it, at very high cost, to the owner. An independent Jaguar specialist garage should be able to recover the unit, the issue is becoming more widespreadly known. Of course, it could be that your CJB has failed anyway, and needs to be replaced, due to no control of a headlamp. If mine, I'd follow the correct procedure for vehicle shutdown (search on this forum), disconnect the battery myself, then short the positive lead to chassis (don't short the battery terminals!). Reconnect, reset windows etc and check systems and headlamp operation. Use caution though, should the procedure corrupt the CJB, you could have a car that will no longer start so can't be moved. It's rare, but does happen.
 
#20 ·
IF doing a battery disconnect I wouldn’t advocate shorting the positive to chassis for two reasons;
There’s no real reason to do this
If there’s any charge on capacitors (that’s what you’d be draining) it’s a shock to them, better to let them bleed naturally most electronics can’t stay alive for more than 10 seconds, so not needed.
 
#34 ·
Yes, totally agree with that. This sounds like a wiring issue to me, short circuit, broken of more likely, chafed cable somewhere. Maybe try an auto electrician who are better geared up for electrical faults. Most general mechanics are not good with electrics.
 
#21 ·
Makes sense, I've never done it as never needed to, just repeating what I've heard, so better advice from Gav.
 
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#22 ·
The below is probably the reset procedure they're referring too, ( and I will add whoever wrote it should read up on battery safety - you should always disconnect the negative first, and reconnect last to prevent short circuits if your tools touch any of the exposed bodywork etc when on the positive terminal from creating a short circuit, welding you tool on, and causing the battery to boil/explode etc! If I was following that procedure I'd disconnect negative before starting the procedure, and only reconnect after the positive )
 
#23 ·
I agree they‘re only saying this so you can discharge the caps to negative, but should have made it clear disconnect the negative first then reconnect after positive in my eyes it’s not worth doing this anyway as by the time you do this the caps will have discharged anyway!
 
#25 ·
Unless you happen to have a suitable high-ish wattage 1kΩ resistor rather than shorting.
 
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#26 ·
Personally if it were me if the power cycle didn't work, I'd find out where the power feed described by the fault is on the CJB/BCM and the corresponding one for the other side then de-pin and swap them somehow. Then if the fault moves to the other side you know the BCM isn't outputting for one side, otherwise it's a wiring is fault.
 
#30 ·
Another update to keep this alive. Still no resolution and dealer still have the car. Apparently, they were unsuccessful in resetting the CJB though they claim a hard rese was performed and all other functions work as expected. I spoke the service manager and he has agreed to contact the Jaguar factory technical assistance engineer. My fear is that their dealer tech (working on a flat rate basis), has no interest in this endeavor. Unfortunately, it would appear we don't have a Motronics operation here in the States as it would seem they might have experience. They apparently do have industrial operations, but I think different focus. Purchasing a used CJB is not a good option. The wiring diagram is helpful and though I am loath to break open the harness to check for broken wires as it looks pristine, but I may have no choice. Obviously its lucky we have other vehicles as we are now going on two weeks with car sitting at the dealer and over a month of me chasing theories. To be continued as progress allows.
Bond
2012 XF
 
#31 ·
Assuming you have the correct wiring diagrams, if it were me I'd disconnect the battery, then the wires which route to the headlamp assembly at the CJB, and at the headlamp, then get a multimeter, and check the resistance between every pair of wires at the headlamp connector, and between each wire and a good ground point.

Your fault code indicated a short to ground, so it seems you're trying to find a wire where the insulation has broken, and it's shorting to frame or an adjacent wire.

Either that or try just replacing the wire in question from end to end ( probably tricky to get the correct connector pins, so depends on your view on cutting / splicing wires )
 
#32 ·
Thanks Phil, I used to feel competent cutting / spicing wires but as the connectors have become more sophisticated and wires more delicate, I find my thick & luddite fingers can add insult to injury. But as options diminish your suggestions are spot on.
Thanks again.
bond
 
#35 ·
Thanks guys,
So here is latest update. After the dealer at my request contacted the factory "TA" the TA began trouble shooting with the dealer's tech online. Final diagnosis is as you might have already guessed is a faulty CJB. The dealer offered to sell it at wholesale price and an all-in price of $4700.00. Breath taking, eye watering and honestly no great surprise at this point. I accepted their offer, and the part arrived this past Friday. After many weeks of efforts, parts and several diagnostics not to mention lost sleep and not having the use of the car, I am simply over it. Plus I wasn't sure what it would have cost if I declined the offer.

As I don't yet have it back, I guess time will tell. At this point I believe the dealers mechanic did not do all he claimed, and as a result I may have purchased a very expensive replacement headlight assembly that was not needed. So do I reinstall my original assembly with new bulb/ballast and take chance of corrupting new CJB or install the new one. A neighbor who was the factory Ford "TA" recommends I install the new one. I guess it makes sense as I can't send it back and don't know if/when I could sell it.

So, stay tuned for my final verdict once I have it back and reassembled.

bond
2012 XF
 
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