[bond]

Hi Guys,
My previous post Bi-Xeon by gawd has progressed to the point where I felt a new title warranted. Summarized my Bi-Xeon right side not functioning. Replaced bulb and ballast, plugged into left side all good. Right side still nothing. So, updates; took the car to two well respected European independent repair shops. First one with Snap-On diagnostic tool, the other with the Autel a more sophisticated system. Snap-On nothing of value the Autel shows power into CJB but not out. OK, seems like CJB but it looks in good shape to me, so I take it to my Authorized Jaguar Dealer here in TN. Looks to be respected and significant dealer. They say when they plugged in the left light to right the DLR did not come on (high and low beams dis) and this put CJB in safety mode. I need to purchase a complete new light assembly and then they can tell me if I will need a new CJB. HOLY COW, this could cost over $10,000! Can anybody elaborate on safety mode in CJB? Never heard this before. I plan to retry the swapping sides again, but I need help.
Thanks all,
Bond
2012 XF Portfolio

 

[cutlea01]

Never heard of safety mode for a CJB, but every day is a school day. I wouldn't be happy for a Jaguar main dealer to work on my car, they're more computer technicians than mechanical engineers, I'd stick with a recommended independent Jaguar specialist. You could try a full CJB reset? Disconnect the battery (if yours is a facelift, ensure you follow the correct procedure else you could be in heaps more trouble, search on here). Once disconnected, short the positive battery lead to chassis (do not short the battery terminals!), leave for another 10 mins or so, then reconnect. Can even leave all disconnected over night if you're in no rush. May not fix but worth a try.

 

[Beevee]

A known fault could be a wire broken along the backside of the bumper and earth faults
Well, I’ve read about it before….
Be careful if you disconnect the battery, your year may be in the window of the issue with security (doors not locking, keys not recognised, etc)

 

[bond]

Thanks Guys,
I just returned from the dealer and I think they are standup guys. From their computer read out; DTDs by ECU fault code B13D1-11 "Right Daytime Running Lamp and Position Power Feed-Circuit short to ground". In reviewing in my mind, the series of events I think this is the root cause. My first indication of trouble was the DLR inoperable, but high/low beams OK for several days then they went dark as well. After bulb and ballast replaced and when I connected the left side to right side, they all worked as expected, but only for a few seconds. I suspect that had I left it connected for long it might have triggered this side as well. Gut punch is new light assembly from Jaguar is $3700.00 USD. Used on Ebay, $1000.00+/- with no guarantees and look in worse condition to what I have. Not an attractive option. There is a song by the Wall Flowers, "We Can Make It Home..With One Head Light." I think I like that song.
Thanks all,
Bond
2012 XF Portfolio

 

[cutlea01]

$3700.00 USD? Bloody hell! Part number C2Z31436 which I think is the correct LH unit for LH drive USA car, is £1,337 UKP, including our sales tax. That currently exchanges to $1612 USD. Even with shipping and import taxes it'll be a lot less.

 

[bond]

I am searching now online. The new retail price is $3923.74 from a Dealer in IL USA. The part number I was told is C2Z31431 (Adaptive and I need right hand side). I am looking at one on Ebay claims new though not at dealer and has been opened for $1,100.00. Part number make sense?
Thanks

 

[cutlea01]

C2Z31431 is £1559 in UKP. Part is listed as "RH,assembly. Active/adaptive headlamps,Canada,LHD,Mexico,USA".

 

[xf_phil]

Replaced bulb and ballast, plugged into left side all good. Right side still nothing.

So that sounds like the fault is with the right side wiring or the CJB.

They say when they plugged in the left light to right the DLR did not come on (high and low beams dis) and this put CJB in safety mode.

Also seems to suggest right side wiring, or CJB fault. Most fault codes auto reset, but they probably would at least have to cycle the ignition, to unblock the output if a short was in the previously connected headlight cluster.

DTDs by ECU fault code B13D1-11 "Right Daytime Running Lamp and Position Power Feed-Circuit short to ground"

So the CJB built in diagnostics is reporting that the power wire shared for the right hand DRL and position light is shorted to ground, potentially it could be that it's shorted in the headlamp assembly but connecting the known good assembly to the bad side and clearing the fault codes/cycling the ignition it should work and not set the fault code again.

So that once again suggests the fault is either with the wiring, or internal to the CJB - I do wonder if they actually checked the wiring for shorts to ground as the diagnostic message suggests.

The obvious thing to do if you have access to SDD to read the codes, would be to disconnect that wire at the headlamp assembly first ( de-pin it from the connector ), and then the cjb and check if the code is still current ( or changes to an open circuit code ) after each disconnection. ( It's Green and White I believe pin 16 on the headlamp assembly connector, and pin 2 on the 20 pin grey connector at the CJB. )

 

[xf_phil]

I've heard of cables under the air filter box getting damaged too, so if your car has an air filter on the problematic side ( depends what engine you have I guess ) , it might be worth looking under it for squashed wiring harness.

 

[bond]

Thanks, good info here. I don't have access to the SDD so I am kind of throwing Hell Mary's. I believe I may have found the cheapest new headlight assembly available in the US. At about $1000.00, and I may be the only idiot who is happy to purchase a headlight for $!000! In my diagnostic deliberations I think the DLR was somehow damaged internally creating the short. Thus, when I swapped sides, it hadn't the time required to trip the fault on the other side. Once this new unit arrives and I plug it all in, we shall see if it resets or needs to be prompted. I promise to report back.
Thanks to all who contributed!

 

[TheStig]

Thanks, good info here. I don't have access to the SDD so I am kind of throwing Hell Mary's. I believe I may have found the cheapest new headlight assembly available in the US. At about $1000.00, and I may be the only idiot who is happy to purchase a headlight for $!000! In my diagnostic deliberations I think the DLR was somehow damaged internally creating the short. Thus, when I swapped sides, it hadn't the time required to trip the fault on the other side. Once this new unit arrives and I plug it all in, we shall see if it resets or needs to be prompted. I promise to report back.
Thanks to all who contributed!

How about testing the new unit on the side you know is working before you install it?

 

[bond]

I had planned on doing exactly this, then I found "this what I considered very good deal" on a new unit. So, I reasoned that the effort and time required to further the disassembly of the left side unit was outweighed by the possibility of losing the "deal" and if indeed finding issues remaining, reselling said unit. But you're right that was the logical next step.

 

[bond]

OK, latest update. I promised to post as soon as I progressed. Spoiler alert, still not working. Here is where I am and next steps. The Brand-New Ebay light (from Bimmersource) arrived as promised and appears in every way as new. When plugged into (right) receptacle, still no light. When plugged into left side all lights as expected. So, I removed left side light and plugged into right hand side, no work either. So, my next plan of attack is back to the local dealership for another diagnosis and/or have them do a hard reset. I don't feel confident in performing the hard reset myself and then having unintended consequences that I can't solve. Cannot get an appointment till mid next week, so will report back once this has been done. So, my new theme song.." we can make it home, on one head light"