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Discussion Starter #41
Thanks brake-buster got myself a set of those look like they should do the job, pity I didn't get around to ordering them earlier, as would have come in handy for pipe clip fitting a new dishwasher.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Hi Phil, the pipe I think you are referring to goes from the black plastic housing which is the air filter, to the compressor body and it has a knipex type fitting at on end and a spring loaded clip at the other, removable with mole grips.I'm not sure on the intricacies of its operation but there doesn't seem to be any natural leakage, the donor car stood for nearly five months with no drop in ride height.
Hi Dan, just picked up in your post, that you mention the black plastic housing is an air filter, I was thinking it was just a silencer for the intake, do you by any chance know if it has a paper type filter in, or is filled with gel beads etc?

I'm considering if I'll need to replace/examine the filter too, as my car has had a couple of inches of water in the boot, the water's likely what started the failure of the compressor I suppose as was noisy afterwards.

BTW if you haven't disconnected the black airline from your pressure cylinder, it's probably worth avoiding, as I don't think replacements are available for that connector.

Thanks
Phil
 

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Hi Dan, just picked up in your post, that you mention the black plastic housing is an air filter, I was thinking it was just a silencer for the intake, do you by any chance know if it has a paper type filter in, or is filled with gel beads etc?

I'm considering if I'll need to replace/examine the filter too, as my car has had a couple of inches of water in the boot, the water's likely what started the failure of the compressor I suppose as was noisy afterwards.

BTW if you haven't disconnected the black airline from your pressure cylinder, it's probably worth avoiding, as I don't think replacements are available for that connector.

Thanks
Phil
Hi Phil, it is just a dry foam insert approx four inches thick, as it's in a relatively clean area it wouldn't normally need any attention.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Thanks Dan, I guess the foam will have dried out if it got any water in by now as it's been about 6 months, and as you say it's a clean area, in fact it was nice clean wash'n'wax solution. Only thing left I've gotta find out now is how to remove the carpet effect trim on the left side of the boot, hoping it will just pull out if I unbolt the tie down point rail on the left of the boot floor, but maybe the top trim or d pillar trim need removing first.

Thanks again
Phil
 

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no need to remove the rail or upper pillar trims to remove the left side upright carpet covered trim ,

first , remove the cubby box, and the liner, these simply pull out ,

then drop the left side back seat by pulling the lever , then behind that lever there is a torx bolt that needs removing, then where the retracting load cover fits there is another torx bolt , remove that

then simply pull out and up slightly and the whole carpet trim will come out ,

be aware the rear seat operating cable from the lever is still attached , as well as the loadspace lamp ,

BB
 

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Discussion Starter #46
no need to remove the rail or upper pillar trims to remove the left side upright carpet covered trim ,

first , remove the cubby box, and the liner, these simply pull out ,

then drop the left side back seat by pulling the lever , then behind that lever there is a torx bolt that needs removing, then where the retracting load cover fits there is another torx bolt , remove that

then simply pull out and up slightly and the whole carpet trim will come out ,

be aware the rear seat operating cable from the lever is still attached , as well as the loadspace lamp ,

BB
Thanks brake-buster, I almost managed to get the left side trim out, but it seems to be firmly attached about half way up to the left of where the cubby box was, and I don't really like to pull any harder, in case it needs to be moved in some specific direction to not break the clip off, or there is a different type of fixing. I see the left most corner tucks slightly under the metal trim that runs across the bottom of the boot opening, so can't really pull it up at that end and haven't experimented further as wanted to push on with the compressor replacement.

Also do you happen to know how the metal rail comes out, or the folding section of floor between the rails? ( I removed the bolts, the rail seems attached to the plastic of the metal plate running across the opening. )
I'm just hoping to pull that stuff out so I can check there are no small leaks left, as it took around 5 months to dry out after the dealers fixed the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
Thought I'd let you know my air suspension is fixed, many thanks to DesperateDan, PeteA, brake-buster, Wilf and everyone else on the thread.

I'll try and explain what I did, as it may be helpful to others in future.

Before anyone jumps in to copy what I did I suggest you read a bit about high pressure air safety, at the kinds of pressures used there are risks of serious/fatal injury - I'm not claiming this is a HOWTO, it's describes what I did and if you decide to do similar you do so at your own risk.


First a little bit of background, normal pressure for the suspension units, it between 5 and 8 bar, while the reservoir nominal pressure is 16.5 bar ( and max is 22 bar )

Before you do any work on the system, you need to depressurise it, using a diagnostic tool
as far as I can see you have the choice of SDD or DS-ST512 ( DA-ST512 Service Hand Held Device (Jaguar Land Rover) ) with Air Suspension Inflate/Deflate for Jaguar Land Rover

I'm told you should close all the doors, and tailgate before depressurising, and check there is nothing under the car as it will descend.

Also make sure you have a 50A power supply/battery support unit - not a battery charger as they have a lot of AC ripple!
( AMK state the compressor is 380W, so you're gonna need more than 30A for that plus the usual drain. )
The car battery should be fully charged before you start, and turn off the interior fans, headlights, and radio to reduce load as much as possible.

Ok on to what I did:-

I got this kit, they also sell on ebay, seem to be the only supplier at the moment,
AMK A2830 Jaguar XF (X250) Compressor C2Z31470, C2Z20105, Spare parts around the air suspension

I depressurised both the reservoir, and suspension units as I wouldn't want to risk a pipe rupturing, or fitting leaking when my hands are in close proximity at those kinds of pressure.

Checked car had lowered in case exhaust valve was stuck.
Disconnected diagnostic kit.

Put on safety glasses and gloves.

Disconnected the batteries ( first ensured car was unlocked, and drivers door had been opened at least once since to prevent alarm setting/going off, and all doors were now closed ), and tucked a bit of cardboard under the cables to prevent them reconnecting. ( Didn't want to move the cable too far as I hear the fine wire for the BMS tends to snap off. ) Disconnected small battery first BTW.

Removed the toolkit ( 10mm socket - one obvious bolt )
Removed the 2 push in clips in the foam cover for the air suspension compressor ( pull the centres of those clips up first to release, then they pull out easily )
Removed the top foam cover.
Unplugged the subwoofer.
Removed the 2 bolts for the subwoofer ( 10mm again ), and then removed the subwoofer.

Put on hearing protection.
( apparently air leaking out can scream loud enough to cause permanent hearing loss - should be very little after depressurise operation, but just in case.)

Cut the two cable ties on the top left side of plastic tray for the air compressor with wire cutters ( being very careful not to damage the airlines ) - these were ordinary cable ties pushed through the clips.

Removed the 3 nuts which hold the reservoir down ( 10mm again )
Moved reservoir slightly right being careful not to damage it or it's connecting pipe on the bolts.
Moved the spring pipe clip on the pipe attached to the left of the air-filter a bit further onto the pipe ( black part attached to the reservoir. )
Disconnected the hose from the air-filter.

Disconnected the plugs from the compressor and exhaust valve.
Using the side of a closed pair of pliers below, and wiggling from above, pushed the 3 cables ties for the wiring harness out. ( These were one piece design, so if you cut them you'd want new fir tree zip ties. )
Gently move the wiring harness out of the way to the right.
Put some foam down in the back left corner of the boot, and propped the reservoir/air-filter assembly against it. This allowed the black pipe for the reservoir to move above the bracket for the plastic compressor plate nearest the front of the car.

Carefully slackened the 12mm nut where the red airline enters the compressor ( kept hand at the end of spanner away from the nut in case of high pressure leakage, and moved out a bit and temporarily removed hearing protection to listen for any leakage. ) There were no signs of any air in the system. Pushed the foam slightly to allow the pipe to come out.
Wrapped the end the red line in cling film to prevent any dust etc getting in.
NOTE. from this point, being careful not to push the airline fitting further onto the red airline.

Removed the 3 bolts (10mm ) at the top of the compressor bracket, and the one nut recessed down a hole which holds it to the floor. ( Looked like it would need a long reach socket, but think that is an optical illusion with it being recessed, as normal 1/2 drive 10mm socket worked fine. )

Eased the compressor tray up, rotated slightly right to clear the clear the airline pipe, while at the same time removing the valve block by pushing towards the rear of the car ( it's held on 3 rubber mounts ) being careful not to tug on it's pipes or wiring, continued to remove the compressor tray, while leaving the valve body in the car, which resulted in the scene below.

181699


Took compressor to the bench, and removed the 3 torx (T30) bolts holding it to the plate.
The new compressor came with the 3 rubber covers for just under the heads of the bolts, the 3 springs, and the 3 rubber mounts which I removed/replaced from the top of the tray.
Then was shocked to find the holes on the new compressor were not threaded!
Went off and looked, and found out that they don't tap them as apparently it makes them grip better with no thread lock!

Then came transferring the intake pipe from the old compressor to the new, after noting which orientation it was it, I discovered the pipe clip is like the one below, I had to tap the little hook in the green circle ( lightly with a screwdriver), to bend it up, as it was crimped sideways, and then insert a screwdriver in the loop at to top to relieve pressure on the other two hooks, while prying the clip open with a small screwdriver.
181704


Decided to replace with a worm drive pipe clip ( jubilee clip ), and aligned the screw part so not to catch on the tray etc. ( Inside diameter is around 15mm )

Bolted the new compressor to the tray ( metal washers against compressor ) being careful to align the bolt with the hole, and pushed down pretty hard to start it, then switched to torque wrench and tightened to 10Nm ( I'd probably end up stripping the threads if I didn't use a torque wrench into aluminium )

Fed two new cable ties in ready for the airlines, as figured easier to do on the bench.

Removed the old connector from the red pipe, I pried the cutter ring apart with two large blunt screwdrivers, being careful not to damage the line, then just slid the connector off, looks like below, the cutter ring is already cut at one side so easy to break off. The left part has two internal o-rings to provide the seal to the pipe.

181706


Checked there where no sharp places , and protected the end of the pipe with cling film again.

As my car had had water in the boot, removed the cap from the air intake/exhaust filter, and pulled the block of foam out, ( it's a cylinder 101mm long, 101.5mm diameter I suppose it should be 100mm ) - if I were doing it again would note how far it in was, as the enclosure is longer. Was still a bit wet ( after 6 months ! ), so I washed it, and then dried it by sucking air through it with a wet'n'dry vacuum cleaner. Then pushed it back in and put the cap back.

Put the tray back in place complete with the new compressor,
pushing the valve block mounts back into their slots and made sure the intake/exhaust line was exiting to the right ready to connect.
Checked the routing of the airlines ( in case black and red were crossed so wouldn't lay properly through the cable ties. )
Lifted the tray slightly and pulled the white plug from the new compressor straight out.
( new compressor comes with a new airline fitting installed, pre-torqued )
Then pushed the red airline in it's place all the way - there are two lines already marked on the airline, and it must completely hide the first one. Once all the way in attempted to pull back out to engage the cutter ring.
Put the bolts holding the tray to bodywork and floor back ( all 9Nm )
Clipped the wiring harness back in place.

Lifted the reservoir almost back in place, reconnected the exhaust/intake line to the filter, and put it's clip back.
Put the reservoir back on it's bolts, and replaced the nuts ( also 9Nm )

Fastened the two cable ties around the airlines.

Put the subwoofer back and bolted down.

Reconnected the wiring for the compressor, exhaust valve and subwoofer.

Placed the cover loosely over the compressor.

Closed the doors, Reconnected the batteries ( small one last ) 6Nm.

Reconnected diagnostic, closed all doors including tailgate ( I think this cuts power drain ) and re-pressurised the system. ( Pretty noisy in the car so used my hearing protection, wish I'd opened the windows )
Disconnect diagnostic gear.

Checked for leaks, ( listen and checked with soapy water. )
Put the cover and pegs back in place.

Tray back, and closed the folding section of floor.

Start car, wait for it to reach running temperature ( had to guess as they don't have a temp gauge! ), close each window ( first position on switch ) until click is heard to calibrate one touch up, and set the clock, re-calibrated the parking brake as per on dash instructions ( moderate pressure on footbrake )

Car looked a little high, dropped to normal height on driving.

The kit came with a new relay, however my car doesn't use a relay to drive the compressor, its driven from the rear smart junction box, see thick wire circled in green below, and that there are no relays in the junction box.
181707

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Other stuff to note/useful links

Looks like the exhaust valve is available as a land rover part ( but not jaguar )
LR075760, see
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - AMK compressor exhaust fault C1A13 Updated

There is also LR075759 - not sure if that is for older/newer compressor variant ( there are two part numbers for the compressor and tray assembly from jaguar. )

Details of fitting the valve are at
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/MC-10105736-9340.pdf
( three o-rings which must be extracted with the old one, and torque to 3Nm )

Looks like there may now also be a compressor repair kit for AMK
AMK Compressor Repair Kit

According to the AMK data sheet the connector on the compressor is
VOSS M10x1 6mm it has a violet dot which implies it's for -40 to 100c, 72NBR thread seal, 70 EPDM tube seal which would make it voss part no “5 2 03 60 21 00”

Fittings can be refitted when changing components according to voss instructions
https://www.voss-automotive.net/fileadmin/user_upload/Downloads/Produktinformation/203_Assembly_Instructions.pdf
 

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Good Heavens Phil, what an outstanding write up!!!.. o_O

Up there with the very, very best we've ever had!.. :cool:


The help jaginfo members gave you is but little compared to the write up you have just given back!!!..


Perhaps a nice MOD could extract that post and put it into the relevant section on it's own for the future reference of others?

It 'proper' deserves it!!


Lots of valuable extra info too.. thank you!!.. (y)
 

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result,

excellent news and perseverance, well worth the effort

BB👍
 
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Please copy and paste your post in the How To section it’s invaluable.

Well done on the fix BTW
 

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Great write up!
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Good Heavens Phil, what an outstanding write up!!!.. o_O

Up there with the very, very best we've ever had!.. :cool:


The help jaginfo members gave you is but little compared to the write up you have just given back!!!..


Perhaps a nice MOD could extract that post and put it into the relevant section on it's own for the future reference of others?

It 'proper' deserves it!!


Lots of valuable extra info too.. thank you!!.. (y)
Thanks PeteA,
I think the write up almost took longer than the job ;) but glad to be able to post it as hopefully it'll help others in future.

Link to where it ended up below:
Sportbrake Air suspension compressor replacement
 
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