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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, has anybody got any suggestions for suppliers of a service kit (B) for my 3.0D facelift X250?

I can't remember where I got the last one from.. :rolleyes:

With or without oil suggestions welcome.. (y)


TIA

P.S. Does 'The Sunday Club' fancy a jolly to S.E. Cornwall next weekend?... :D
 

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Have a look on ebay Pete I'm sure there's a dealer that sells on there.
 
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Have a look on ebay Pete I'm sure there's a dealer that sells on there.
Ive used opie in the past and miller's xf long life oil
 
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I just bought them all separately from one of the many discounted days on ECP. Mann oil, air and cabin filters, Delphi fuel filter and Shell helix af-l oil.

And some archoil oil additive.

I was very popular turning up at the garage with my shopping basket of stuff.
 

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If you are anywhere near Wakefield Pete, you could put it on my 2 post and we could do it together.
We could have a pint in my pub down the garden when we finished,I would love that, excuse for a bit more beer.
 

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Just had a thought Pete, make sure you get the correct fuel filter, there are 2 types for that car. loosen the clamp bolt and turn it slightly until you see the number if it ends in 955 it is 10mm thread for the water sensor,I can't remember the other number without looking it up but that is an 8mm thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
If you are anywhere near Wakefield Pete, you could put it on my 2 post and we could do it together.
We could have a pint in my pub down the garden when we finished,I would love that, excuse for a bit more beer.
On it right now Fred.. just organising moving S.E. Cornwall closer to Wack.. Week.. er, wherever it is you are... (y)


:D


Fantastic offer nonetheless, thank you very much!!... :cool:
 
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I use Opie oils
Same here, the Motul oil whilst expensive quietened down my diesel noticeably compared to Miller and Fuchs and the Mahle oil filter is a nice fit. The disposable funnel is handy as well.
 
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I would also state that Mahle oil filters and their air filters and probably their pollen filters are way better then the rather poor quality Jaguar ones. I wouldn't ever fit Jaguar labeled filters to my xf.
 

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i am just gathering all items to carry out a service on my 2.2

i am only buying genuine Jaguar service items, and i am getting the majority from ebay at around half the price of the dealerships, all genuine jag and in the boxes,
so far i have a fuel filter, x2 oil filters ( one for future due to being 拢4 each !!) , interior cabin pollen filter ( Jag but made by Bosch ) , i run a K&N panel filter on the engine , so not needed , and i will be getting some oil from euro car parts with a discount code bringing it down to 拢60 for 8 litres of Castrol ( 2x4ltr cans ) ,

i also have the four brake discs and pads to change before the winter, and thinking of the online genuine ZF gearbox oil change kits ( about 拢250 )

BB
 

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The Jag air filter which I took out of my XF was very poorly made - I think they label their parts Viseton or something like that. I've always used Mahle on all of my cars. The 2.2 is a PSA unit, so I've used Purflux (OEM for Jag/PSA) for the diesel filter and Mahle for the air, oil and pollen filters. I also used C2/C3 spec engine oil too - Havoline PRO DS M 5-30. The C1 spec that Jag specifiy isn't suited for the PSA derived diesel engines - the C1 spec is fuel economy orientated. My engine runs much more quietly since I serviced it with the above.
 

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I'm sure the primary purpose of C1 oil is low ash to enhance the lifespan of the DPF?
 

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I'm sure the primary purpose of C1 oil is low ash to enhance the lifespan of the DPF?
Exactly what I believe, with C1 being a low saps/ash oil and of course the one recomended by Jaguar. Nothing to do with economy but everything to do with reducing the load on a dpf.
 

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Exactly what I believe, with C1 being a low saps/ash oil and of course the one recomended by Jaguar. Nothing to do with economy but everything to do with reducing the load on a dpf.
If you follow my posts on cracked manifold you will see it is directly related. C1 keeps engine, egr,turbos cleaner and dpf get full at a slower rate. Castrol market their C3 oils as LL(Long Life) recently. C3 might have other advantages that I am not aware except for longer life.
For compression Ash/sulphate contents are:
C1: <0.5%
C3(LL):<0.8%

(For petrol) A1: 1.2%

I used A1 as break-in oil (By mistake) and within 1500miles my intakes cracked, turbo arm because sticky, dpf was full every couple of days (I had dpf warning clear at start of a 200miles trip and it was back at the end of the journey. You see the difference between A1 and C3/LL is similar to C1 to C3.

To have some more idea, I took off the injectors after 148k on the clock. Engine was clean is a petrol and injectors had a light coat of black carbon which I cleaned before putting it back on. Then after 1500miles I repeat it to replace inlet manifolds and this was the situation:
182381


And everwhere else that I could check was like that. It was waaay cleaner before using A1 oil.
 

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This has only served to reinforce why nobody except for me puts oil into my Jaguar.
 
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You are right, however DPF problems are always related to cars which have low use and used for short runs. The PSA group specify a C2 Spec oil and the Jag XF owners manual also states that C2 oil is acceptable too. The C1 is also a fuel economy oil as well as a low Ash one too. I personally will stick with what I know. I took months to decide the oil for my service and from experience with my previous DPF cars too. I would personally never stick a C1 oil, I think the issues with the V6 big end bearings going are related to the oil spec pushed by Jag to ensure that low mileage drivers don't have DPF issues. I may be wrong but I haven't heard of a PSA 3.0 V6 diesel needing bearings when in French car. I also use my Jag for towing so full protection is required. This is just my view based upon my experience and taking a 2.0HDI late 2011 Citreon C5 Tourer to 200000 miles using specifically C3 spec oil and never ever having a DPF issue. I also drive around 450 miles per week all on motorway due to work.
 

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I remember when I had Honda cars it seemed to be the viscosity which was primarily related to economy. The hybrids used their 0W20 and they said it was to maximise fuel efficiency. But this is petrol and not diesel. However, that aside I did have a quick look and came across this which seems to have a bearing (excuse the pun) on what you have said about reliability:

An ACEA C1 engine oil, cannot be used where an ACEA C3 oil is specified by the manufacturer as the C1 has a lower Sulphated Ash requirement than a C3 oil. This could lead to longevity issues with the engine. Alternatively, if a C3 oil is used in place of a C1 oil, this could cause issues with after treatment systems such as DPFs or catalysts in the exhaust system.
I think C3 and C4 oils have better HTHS viscosities so the bearings are better protected (tear and shear) at high temperatures and speeds. Could there be a argument that by not using C1 oil then your DPF will fill up quicker (even with motorway driving) and therefore require more regens which in turns may be putting more undue stress and heat on the engine etc?

I believe C4 is also considered a low-SAPS oil rather than a mid-SAPS. Would it not be the best of both worlds? Alternatively, I suppose you could use C1 and change the oil every 6 months / 5,000 miles like I do, although I'm not sure if the protection would still be as effective as the HTHS qualities of C3 and C4.

I do find oil an interesting topic though, perhaps because there's still so much mystery surrounding it!
 
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