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Thanks. I follow :). Interesting. I will let you know and post some pictures after my exchange of the manifolds. I am really interested in these cracks, because I have a little knowledge about plastic injection moulding. Especially this GRP plastic. It is not the wrong material at all for such parts but if the reason is the welding seam..... I had trouble with welding of plastic parts over months, till the machinery worked right with the right parameters :-(.
The issue for me was a bad MAP sensor. It had a large offset error.
 

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I know what a MAF sensor is. Por favor, que es un MAP sensor?

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Discussion Starter #23
MAP = Manifold-Absolute-Pressure
MAF =Mass Air Flow meter
Two different sensors for two different adjustments for injection and turbo chargers. Very rough explanation :) It is much more complicated and the readings from both sensors are taken into the calculation via the performance map of the engine control box.
Hope that might help you :)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
@hamedhbb
I will keep that in mind, if my problem won't be solved with the next repairs. The manifolds arrived on Friday! Very fast. They are in good shape and should fit. The weld seam looks like....I don't know...I wouldn't allow my assembly group to
ship a part with such a welding seam :) But hey, if this works, everything will be fine. I took some pictures and will have a look at the old parts. I am very interested in how they improved the welding. It seems to me like a friction welding seam. But if you look at the inner part of the seam it might also be ultrasonic welding. I hope I will find the reason for the leakage of the old part. I will replace the second (B) MAF sensor, too. It is more a feeling. I want to start with two new MAFs of the same type after this repair. And hopefully my MAP sensor ist still ok :). On Tuesday my mechanic will start the repair :)
Have a nice Sunday!
 

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MAP = Manifold-Absolute-Pressure
MAF =Mass Air Flow meter
Two different sensors for two different adjustments for injection and turbo chargers. Very rough explanation :) It is much more complicated and the readings from both sensors are taken into the calculation via the performance map of the engine control box.
Hope that might help you :)
Thanks.
I know the fundamentals. Just didn't know what the acronym stood for.
 

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Thanks.
I know the fundamentals. Just didn't know what the acronym stood for.
It is not a necessary sensor to run the engine and many engines don’t even have one. However it is very useful for self-checks by ECM and fuel economy. If you have a clogged EGR or sticky one and a sticky VGN arm, etc, engine can use MAP to diagnose the problem or mitigate that. Unfortunately it seems this sensor can go wrong without ECM being able to examine it and crack the inlet manifold or intercooler or go other way and make engine underpowered. It is the sensor sitting on top of Y shape throttle body. Very easy to clean and access. When mileage adds up, this sensor becomes more important because engine parts, turbos, etc, wear off and don’t behave as expected by ECM. So It uses MAP more often to correct controlIng parameters. It’s not well documented in the workshop manual. If you want to check it with code reader you might find these interesting:
-MAP: absolute pressure in manifold. Including atmosphere pressure.
-Boost pressure: MAP deducted by the MAP reading just prior to start the engine (hence atmosphere pressure)
-calculated boost pressure: Boost pressure deducted by “estimated“ returned pressure from EGRs.

How to check:
With ignition on and engine off, you should read:
MAP: 1bar~ (depending on your elevation from see level)
With warm engine running at idle:
MAP: 0.5bar~
Boost pressure: -0.5bar~
And all these readings should be stable. If they jump up and down it needs cleaning or there is leakage in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thank you hamedhbb. I think it's time to buy a new obd scanner :) I had a simple one borrowed from a friend.
Yesterday my mechanic could finnish change the manifold on the drivers side. Took him 7 hours including test drive.
He is working allone during this and the next 2 weeks due to holidays of the other mechanic. So he will change the
other side by mid of September. The cat was running really good for about 20 min :-(. RP again!!! This was horrifying! But it was too late in the evening, so I couldn't check with my mechanic. I thought it might be the MAP. I assembled the Triscan sensor. Still RP. I found (again!!) a loose vacuum tube at the inlet motor air filter. F*. This tube **** :). Fixed it. Still RP. Changed the MAP back the old but cleaned one. No RP :devilish:! 20 min test drive with different scenarios of acceleration (slow and fast uphill and flat street, with and without performance mode).

So in the end I think, it was really only the defective manifold which was the root cause for my RP in the last 3 months.
We changed the two MAFs, but I think they were ok. MAP was ok, too. And my mechanic will change the other manifold, too. He wouldn't recommend to do this until it is defective, but I am the customer and I will pay for that :) So it is not really a problem for him :) .

Today I will drive 1 hour on the Autobahn to France and hopefully the DPF will regenerate. It's level was 25%. I think it was because of the RPs.
With the new obd scanner I will check again the Triscan sensor. It is interesting to see the values that this sensor will send and what's the difference to the Hitachi sensor.
I will check the defective manifold. I couldn't find a visible defect at first sight. I could only detect one location with oil and somehow exhaust gas on its surface. I will inspect it later on with a magnifier.

I hope, I won't get a RP again today....
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Just back from my garage. Fault cache reset. Only the MAP (my wrong sensor) and the MAF (loose vacuum hose) fault codes were stored. Sensors are built in everywhere, why not add one for the vacuum? Would be nice to see a fault like "vacuum missing" instead of MAF fault. But hey, that would be too easy...and all pain, gain and fun would be missing :). Would you check the break light switch at an AUDI if the fault code tells you the gear control box is faulty?
The difference between both root cause is just 1600 EUR :cool: ..... and 5 hours work...

So...knock on wood... and never give up.... :)
 

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Just back from my garage. Fault cache reset. Only the MAP (my wrong sensor) and the MAF (loose vacuum hose) fault codes were stored. Sensors are built in everywhere, why not add one for the vacuum? Would be nice to see a fault like "vacuum missing" instead of MAF fault. But hey, that would be too easy...and all pain, gain and fun would be missing :). Would you check the break light switch at an AUDI if the fault code tells you the gear control box is faulty?
The difference between both root cause is just 1600 EUR :cool: ..... and 5 hours work...

So...knock on wood... and never give up.... :)
Sounds great. If it ever comes back I would say there is a leak in air intake. I had a loose clip before first turbo. You could tell if you listen carefully when accelerating. Hopefully it will not be back.
For vacuum, the MAP will measure vacuum as well. So long as it is below barometric pressure. In OBD scanners it is called calculated boost.
this engine have a separate vacuum distribution (might be monitored with a sensor) that is used for brake booster and actuators. But the air intake vacuum is only used to calculate engine load and to separate oil from air coming from vents on valve cover.
slightly different from petrol engines where “normally“ the air intake vacuum is used for brake and actuators and any leak would throw weird fault codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Just some pictures from the cracked part and the new part. The difference between both parts is the version (old EB; new EE). The old one is labeled with FoMoCo (Ford Motor Company). The new one not. The old one has a casting clock, the new one not. Maybe it is a very good copy or it is the original mold without this "original" markings. So the same manufacturer but producing for third party sellers.
The part number is the same 9X2Q-9424-(EE -> drivers side steering left) or (FE other side) U611A TLR073585 (left) TLR074623 (right)
 

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It
Just some pictures from the cracked part and the new part. The difference between both parts is the version (old EB; new EE). The old one is labeled with FoMoCo (Ford Motor Company). The new one not. The old one has a casting clock, the new one not. Maybe it is a very good copy or it is the original mold without this "original" markings. So the same manufacturer but producing for third party sellers.
The part number is the same 9X2Q-9424-(EE -> drivers side steering left) or (FE other side) U611A TLR073585 (left) TLR074623 (right)
it’s not that difficult to remove the plate from old one and put it on new one.
 
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