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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
UPDATE 20 JUNE 2022 SOLVED

I hope I have done this right and someone can please help. I have to drive the car from Norfolk to London in 2 weeks. I am not at all mechanical so will give as much info as possible.

I have been a Jaguar owner for over 40 years. I have had this car for around 9 years. 2010 Jaguar XJ 3.0 D with just under 58k miles. The car has only done a few hundred miles over the last 2 years.

The Car was not used and due an MOT last October. Only a couple hundred miles had been done since last MOT and service. My usual Jag specialist couldn't fit my car in. The battery was dead so called a non specialist garage to collect the car to do a small service and MOT. They could not start the car so took the battery off and charged it overnight. They refitted the newly charged battery and collected my car the following day.

The day after the car was returned I started the car and red light "Restricted performance" came on.. also "Due Service." I needed to go to Doctors so I drove the car on a dual carriageway and the car almost stopped with cars behind me!.. I pulled over to the inside lane and continued the journey slowly picking up speed. . it got better and the light went off. On leaving Drs the red light came on again. I arrived home.

The following day I started the car and noticed a slight burning smell and very small amount of smoke. I started the car the following day and the whole car was shaking. This was followed by the "Orange Check Engine light." This time there was no smell or smoke. I became ill (COVID) so the car was not used again for months.

I called AA for a flat battery. He tried to use diagnostics but it wouldn't work. I think he said he would have to check under the rear seat for the fuse but didn't have the time. He thinks it may be a split hose air getting in or something similar. Perhaps something done wrong at service?... Wrong oil or whatever?.. Unless it is pure coincidence. But I never had a problem until the car was returned!. When he started the car the red light eventually went away then came back on. He noticed at high revs, when taking foot off the gas a slight whistle " Turbo whine " The Turbo whine is very slight and seems to be when the engine gets warm. not when you first start the car..

I still have Restricted Performance

NO longer orange Check Engine light..
NO longer Due Service light
NO longer burning smell or smoke


Thanks
 

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Turbo whine is not an issue unless very loud. You really need to check codes and then investigate from there. I had restricted performance on a 2.2d and this turned out to be glowplugs although I did suspect it may be turbo related. There was a known issue on the 3.0d where the intercooler hose can split so it may be worth checking that. Your symptoms sound very similar to the ones I had on the 2.2d engine…..glowplugs are used to to help with emissions reduction. The car worked fine when cold, but went into limp mode when hot.
 

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I hope I have done this right and someone can please help. I have to drive the car from Norfolk to London in 2 weeks. I am not at all mechanical so will give as much info as possible.

I have been a Jaguar owner for over 40 years. I have had this car for around 9 years. 2010 Jaguar XJ 3.0 D with just under 58k miles. The car has only done a few hundred miles over the last 2 years.

The Car was not used and due an MOT last October. Only a couple hundred miles had been done since last MOT and service. My usual Jag specialist couldn't fit my car in. The battery was dead so called a non specialist garage to collect the car to do a small service and MOT. They could not start the car so took the battery off and charged it overnight. They refitted the newly charged battery and collected my car the following day.

The day after the car was returned I started the car and red light "Restricted performance" came on.. also "Due Service." I needed to go to Doctors so I drove the car on a dual carriageway and the car almost stopped with cars behind me!.. I pulled over to the inside lane and continued the journey slowly picking up speed. . it got better and the light went off. On leaving Drs the red light came on again. I arrived home.

The following day I started the car and noticed a slight burning smell and very small amount of smoke. I started the car the following day and the whole car was shaking. This was followed by the "Orange Check Engine light." This time there was no smell or smoke. I became ill (COVID) so the car was not used again for months.

I called AA for a flat battery. He tried to use diagnostics but it wouldn't work. I think he said he would have to check under the rear seat for the fuse but didn't have the time. He thinks it may be a split hose air getting in or something similar. Perhaps something done wrong at service?... Wrong oil or whatever?.. Unless it is pure coincidence. But I never had a problem until the car was returned!. When he started the car the red light eventually went away then came back on. He noticed at high revs, when taking foot off the gas a slight whistle " Turbo whine " The Turbo whine is very slight and seems to be when the engine gets warm. not when you first start the car..

I still have Restricted Performance

NO longer orange Check Engine light..
NO longer Due Service light
NO longer burning smell or smoke


Thanks
When you switch off the engine for a while, does RP clear itself? Does check engine light stays on when power cycle the car? If you start the car and there is no RP, when RP returns? Is it when you rev the engine stationary or when you try to accelerate?
 

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All we can do on here is guess. The OP says himself he is not mechanically minded, so suggesting he gets a diagnostic scan of the car and report back isn't the way to go. Moonlight Shadow (do come back with your name, we like names here) - I'd politely say you need the assistance of a garage, someone you trust. These cars can and do suffer issues, as do any modern car. I could also throw some guesses, such as the turbo change over valve actuator maybe stuck. But without the diagnostic trouble codes there's no way to diagnose your faults.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for your response. Yes, it clears itself within a few minutes..

I have never had any other issues or DPF errors. This all started after calling a local garage to do an MOT and a small service oil change because the car had done such low mileage I didn't think it warranted a Jag specialist. The garage removed the dead battery and charged it overnight. They fitted the charged battery the following day. They started the car and drove it away and returned the car the same day. having done an MOT and small service.

The following day I started the car when the orange engine light came up along with restricted performance. I have just started the car with no revs, No orange engine light or restricted performance. I sat in the car on tick over for 35 mins, no warning lights until I put my foot on the pedal to 2 or 3k revs. Both orange engine light and RP came on. After about 3 minutes the orange engine light went off. I tried the above four times, each time I would get the same above warnings lights. on one occasion the orange engine light did not come on at all..

I use J-Cat Norwich. who are Jaguar specialists but they are away for a week. Unfortunately it normally takes a couple of weeks before I can book the car in. I have called The Jag Centre, Spixworth, Norwich. they cannot book the car in for a couple of weeks but I desperately need the car to return to London on the 9 June. Unless someone knows of another trusted garage in the Norwich area..

Unfortunately, my drivers licence runs out on the 1 June because it must be changed for a plastic licence now I have hit 70.. so I can't even hire a car. DVLA are taking so long because of COVID.

Do you think it would be safe to drive the car?. Since the issues started I have done four 8 mile trips. I can get up to 60 or 70 MPH provided I take it easy on the revs..

Any suggestions from anyone would be much appreciated.

Thanks

When you switch off the engine for a while, does RP clear itself? Does check engine light stays on when power cycle the car? If you start the car and there is no RP, when RP returns? Is it when you rev the engine stationary or when you try to accelerate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
All we can do on here is guess. The OP says himself he is not mechanically minded, so suggesting he gets a diagnostic scan of the car and report back isn't the way to go. Moonlight Shadow (do come back with your name, we like names here) - I'd politely say you need the assistance of a garage, someone you trust. These cars can and do suffer issues, as do any modern car. I could also throw some guesses, such as the turbo change over valve actuator maybe stuck. But without the diagnostic trouble codes there's no way to diagnose your faults.
Thanks for your response. You are not going to believe this.. my first name is Moonlight.. I think my parents must have been hippies!.. My first car was an old split screen Morris Minor in the early sixties.. after that always Cats. apart from once I purchased a Bentley Continental GT.. Great car but after two years of expensive bills I purchased this diesel jaguar.. I do exceptionally low miles and It's been fine until now.. I usually gave it a 50 mile run once every couple of weeks because of short journeys..

I have never had any other issues or DPF errors. This all started after calling a local garage to do an MOT and small service oil change because the car had done such low mileage I didn't think it warranted a Jag specialist. The garage removed the dead battery and charged it overnight. They fitted the charged battery the following day. They started the car and drove it away and returned the car the same day. having done an MOT and small service.

The following day I started the car when the orange engine light came up along with restricted performance. I have just started the car with no revs, No orange engine light or restricted performance. I sat in the car on tick over for 35 mins, no warning lights until I put my foot on the pedal to 2 or 3k revs. Both orange engine light and RP came on. After about 3 minutes the orange engine light went off. I tried the above four times, each time I would get the same above warnings lights. on one occasion the orange engine light did not come on at all..

I use J-Cat Norwich. who are Jaguar specialists but they are away for a week. Unfortunately it normally takes a couple of weeks before I can book the car in. I have called The Jag Centre, Spixworth, Norwich. they cannot book the car in for a couple of weeks but I desperately need the car to return to London on the 9 June. Unless someone knows of another trusted garage in the Norwich area..

Unfortunately, my drivers licence runs out on the 1 June because it must be changed for a plastic licence now I have hit 70.. so I can't even hire a car. DVLA are taking so long because of COVID.

Do you think it would be safe to drive the car?. Since the issues started I have done four 8 mile trips. I can get up to 60 or 70 MPH provided I take it easy on the revs..

Any suggestions from anyone would be much appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Hi Moonlight, what a wonderful name! If you keep the revs below approx 2,500 ish and the RP/engine light stay off, I strongly suspect the turbo changeover actuator valve on the front of the engine is stuck closed and so not changing over to the secondary turbo. This is a common problem on the 3.0D V6 engine. At least this would be a place to start examination in the absence of any diagnostic codes. If you have slim hands you may even be able to get your hands down there to try to manually move the actuator rod and maybe even free it off. It is located deep down on the front of the engine, at the junction of 3 large pipes, behind the radiator. Item 10 in the below parts diagram. Driving the car very gently and keeping the RP and engine MIL off won't damage it, but driving with the MIL illuminated may lead to clogged DPF. I suspect this issue as the car hasn't been used much and these seize up from lack of spirited use, needs to rev over 2,500 to operate. There are other common issues these engines can suffer from though, not to frighten you, but items such as split inlet manifolds and intercoolers, expensive to repair! These faults would have similar symptoms to those you describe, but different DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes). I think the recent servicing and battery charge are coincidental and do not suspect they have caused the fault.
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Thanks for your response. Yes, it clears itself within a few minutes..

I have never had any other issues or DPF errors. This all started after calling a local garage to do an MOT and a small service oil change because the car had done such low mileage I didn't think it warranted a Jag specialist. The garage removed the dead battery and charged it overnight. They fitted the charged battery the following day. They started the car and drove it away and returned the car the same day. having done an MOT and small service.

The following day I started the car when the orange engine light came up along with restricted performance. I have just started the car with no revs, No orange engine light or restricted performance. I sat in the car on tick over for 35 mins, no warning lights until I put my foot on the pedal to 2 or 3k revs. Both orange engine light and RP came on. After about 3 minutes the orange engine light went off. I tried the above four times, each time I would get the same above warnings lights. on one occasion the orange engine light did not come on at all..

I use J-Cat Norwich. who are Jaguar specialists but they are away for a week. Unfortunately it normally takes a couple of weeks before I can book the car in. I have called The Jag Centre, Spixworth, Norwich. they cannot book the car in for a couple of weeks but I desperately need the car to return to London on the 9 June. Unless someone knows of another trusted garage in the Norwich area..

Unfortunately, my drivers licence runs out on the 1 June because it must be changed for a plastic licence now I have hit 70.. so I can't even hire a car. DVLA are taking so long because of COVID.

Do you think it would be safe to drive the car?. Since the issues started I have done four 8 mile trips. I can get up to 60 or 70 MPH provided I take it easy on the revs..

Any suggestions from anyone would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Because it all started after a service, my first guess is he has misplaced something. My first call would be a bad MAF sensor or he swapped the connectors of MAF A and B by mistake. However given that your car wasn’t driven enough recently, it could be just a bad MAF B (the one on top).
I had a very similar problem before due to a faulty MAF B. The fact that engine check light comes on at the same time as RP, eliminates boost leakage scenarios for me. If you could find an OBD2 reader, check MAF A(2) and MAF B (1) readings. B should read 0 (until you rev the engine to around 2500rpm. MAF A should read around 9gr/sec ( if my memory serves) and can go as high as 350 when you rev the engine. You could also check the connectors visually. The connector that goes to bottom MAF should have 4 wires. The top one will have 3 wires. If obd2 reader shows one MAF, it’s probably an average and anything more than 15gr/sec means one of the MAF sensors is faulty.

In this photo you see MAF B and MAF A is immediately underneath.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Plant Automotive tire


In this photo you can see both MAF sensors off the car. There is a vacuum line connected to bottom side of the air filter box which has to be disconnected for service and very easy to forget when putting air box back on.

Brick Gas Nut Automotive wheel system Machine


MAF A goes to primary turbo(left side hence numbered 2) and B goes to right side ( hence numbered 1 because right bank has the cylinder number 1)
 

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Just a thought....Your battery may be no good. I would ask Halfords or someone similar to check it.
When a battery is completely discharged it is often permanently harmed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Moonlight, what a wonderful name! If you keep the revs below approx 2,500 ish and the RP/engine light stay off, I strongly suspect the turbo changeover actuator valve on the front of the engine is stuck closed and so not changing over to the secondary turbo. This is a common problem on the 3.0D V6 engine. At least this would be a place to start examination in the absence of any diagnostic codes. If you have slim hands you may even be able to get your hands down there to try to manually move the actuator rod and maybe even free it off. It is located deep down on the front of the engine, at the junction of 3 large pipes, behind the radiator. Item 10 in the below parts diagram. Driving the car very gently and keeping the RP and engine MIL off won't damage it, but driving with the MIL illuminated may lead to clogged DPF. I suspect this issue as the car hasn't been used much and these seize up from lack of spirited use, needs to rev over 2,500 to operate. There are other common issues these engines can suffer from though, not to frighten you, but items such as split inlet manifolds and intercoolers, expensive to repair! These faults would have similar symptoms to those you describe, but different DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes). I think the recent servicing and battery charge are coincidental and do not suspect they have caused the fault.
View attachment 192709
Thanks again for your kind reply and for all your info.. Yes, I get lots of jokes about my name!.. I really wish I could take your advice and get my hands dirty!.. Unfortunately I am a wheelchair user so I can't try your suggestion. I am desperately trying to find someone who can look at my car.. I am still awaiting replies from another garage but it is not looking good. I was wondering if all fails if it would be possible to drive the car and not go over two thousand revs.. Not being mechanical I have no idea.. I would much rather get my car fixed in Norfolk than take the car to London and try and get it fixed. Just looks like all garages are so busy at the moment.

I really appreciate the suggestions from you members. taking the time out of your day to help.. You are very kind.. Thanks

hamedhbb Also came up with an interesting answer and suggestion.. but I am not sure if they would take those parts off for a small service..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Because it all started after a service, my first guess is he has misplaced something. My first call would be a bad MAF sensor or he swapped the connectors of MAF A and B by mistake. However given that your car wasn’t driven enough recently, it could be just a bad MAF B (the one on top).
I had a very similar problem before due to a faulty MAF B. The fact that engine check light comes on at the same time as RP, eliminates boost leakage scenarios for me. If you could find an OBD2 reader, check MAF A(2) and MAF B (1) readings. B should read 0 (until you rev the engine to around 2500rpm. MAF A should read around 9gr/sec ( if my memory serves) and can go as high as 350 when you rev the engine. You could also check the connectors visually. The connector that goes to bottom MAF should have 4 wires. The top one will have 3 wires. If obd2 reader shows one MAF, it’s probably an average and anything more than 15gr/sec means one of the MAF sensors is faulty.

In this photo you see MAF B and MAF A is immediately underneath.
View attachment 192717

In this photo you can see both MAF sensors off the car. There is a vacuum line connected to bottom side of the air filter box which has to be disconnected for service and very easy to forget when putting air box back on.

View attachment 192718

MAF A goes to primary turbo(left side hence numbered 2) and B goes to right side ( hence numbered 1 because right bank has the cylinder number 1)
Thanks for your kind reply and for all your info. I tend to agree with you it seems odd my car was working fine until it went into the local garage for a small service. They probably don't know the engine very well.

Would the garage take these parts off to do a small service?.. I presume they will have changed the oil and filter and checked the car over.. Also of course they did the MOT..

Are you saying the garage may have taken this part off and accidently reversed it the wrong way when they put it back on?.. Sorry I really am not mechanical. I never even top my oil.. I always have the car regularly serviced. I am wondering if I could perhaps find a local none specialist who may help if I show them your suggestions. Just finding a garage who can take on work is proving very difficult..

I really am very impressed with the advice given by you members on this forum. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just a thought....Your battery may be no good. I would ask Halfords or someone similar to check it.
When a battery is completely discharged it is often permanently harmed.
Thanks for your kind reply and suggestion. The AA guy tested the two year old battery and it was fine. I have also been advised a flat battery wouldn't give these faults ..
 

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Thanks for your kind reply and for all your info. I tend to agree with you it seems odd my car was working fine until it went into the local garage for a small service. They probably don't know the engine very well.

Would the garage take these parts off to do a small service?.. I presume they will have changed the oil and filter and checked the car over.. Also of course they did the MOT..

Are you saying the garage may have taken this part off and accidently reversed it the wrong way when they put it back on?.. Sorry I really am not mechanical. I never even top my oil.. I always have the car regularly serviced. I am wondering if I could perhaps find a local none specialist who may help if I show them your suggestions. Just finding a garage who can take on work is proving very difficult..

I really am very impressed with the advice given by you members on this forum. Thanks
If you take it back to the garage and they connect a diagnostic device, it’s easy to narrow it down.
If they are familiar with this car, they won’t take the whole air filter box off. Otherwise it’s likely they take the whole unit off to replace the filter.
 

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If you take it back to the garage and they connect a diagnostic device, it’s easy to narrow it down.
If they are familiar with this car, they won’t take the whole air filter box off. Otherwise it’s likely they take the whole unit off to replace the filter.
I doubt it. It's easy enough to force the top part of the air filter box up enough to pull the old filter out and push the new one in.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you take it back to the garage and they connect a diagnostic device, it’s easy to narrow it down.
If they are familiar with this car, they won’t take the whole air filter box off. Otherwise it’s likely they take the whole unit off to replace the filter.
Thanks again. I have spoken to the garage that did the MOT and small service. They have been very helpful and have booked it in for Monday. Diagnostics are still not working so they will have to fix this first. The garage are not specialists but after talking to them they seem confident and they do repair Jaguars. Fingers crossed!..
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I doubt it. It's easy enough to force the top part of the air filter box up enough to pull the old filter out and push the new one in.
Thanks again. I am not sure if they took the filter off and replaced the box the wrong way?.. I have spoken to the garage that did the MOT and small service. They have been very helpful and have booked it in for Monday. Diagnostics are still not working so they will have to fix this first. The garage are not specialists but after talking to them they seem confident and they do repair Jaguars. Fingers crossed!..
 

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Just posted this on the other forum . . .

Just read through this thread and I reckon it's a split intercooler. Well known, documented and common issue with this engine. The mention of hearing a whistling is what suggests it.
If you know where to look, you can see the split (ask me how I know).



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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
UPDATE Wed 8 June 2022

I have just returned from taking my car to J-Cat, the specialist jaguar garage I always use in Norwich.. They couldn't book it in for six weeks but agreed to put a computer reader on it to see what faults were showing.. The local garage that did the MOT and small service said they couldn't get it to work.. saying the fuse was ok..

THE FUSE WAS BLOWN!..

My garage believes they know what the fault is and have kindly squeezed it in for a week on Friday. They believe the Turbo diverter valve is stuck. He advised me many of the other codes may clear when this is done..

OBD error codes are showing the following codes.. I have searched what some of the codes are.
P006A- 00
Manifold absolute pressure-Mass or volume air flow correlation. No sub type information..


P00BD-07 - Mass or volume air flow A circuit range/performance - air flow too high. Mechanical failure
Probably throttle body leak or turbo actuator
The powertrain control module (PCM) uses that reading along with other sensor parameters to ensure proper fuel delivery at any given time for optimum power and fuel efficiency. Basically, this P00BD diagnostic trouble code (DTC) means that there is a problem with the Mass or Volume Air Flow (MAF) "A" sensor circuit.

P1247-00 Turbocharger boost pressure low. No sub type information..

P0235-94 Turbocharger/supercharger boost sensor A circuit No sub type information..

P0235 is a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for "Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction". This can happen for multiple reasons and a mechanic needs to diagnose the specific cause for this code to be triggered in your situation.

www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0235-obd-ii-trouble-code-turbocharger-boost-sensor-a-circuit-malfunction-by-jay-safford

P0235 code definition
Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
What the P0235 code means
P0235 is an OBD-II generic code that is triggered when the Engine Control Module (ECM) detects intake boost pressure sensor A input malfunction when compared to the manifold pressure sensor (MAP) at idle, and with the key turned on before starting the engine.
What causes the P0235 code?
  • The turbo boost sensor and the MAP sensor do not correlate the same reading with the engine at idle and when the key is on and the engine is off.
  • The turbo boost pressure sensor A is contaminated or clogged
  • The turbo boost pressure sensor A is slow to respond to changing pressure
What are the symptoms of the P0235 code?
  • The Check Engine Light will be illuminated and the P0235 code set in ECM memory
  • The engine turbo boost may be turned off by the ECM and the engine will lack power
  • The engine may lack some power during acceleration if the boost sensor is failing to register the correct amount of boost pressure
P0615-00 Starter relay circuit No sub type information..
What causes the P0615 code? A defective ignition switch. A bad starter relay. A shorted or open starter relay circuit. A blown fuse. Defective or damaged battery cable(s) A faulty starter motor or solenoid. A defective PCM (rare)

P0195-00 Engine oil temperature sensor circuit No sub type information..
www.mycarspecs.com/obd2/jaguar/xj-series/2006/base/p0195--engine-oil-temperature-eot-sensor-malfunction
0195 code definition
Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) sensor malfunction
What the P0195 code means
The intended purpose of this code is to indicate if there is a problem with one of the circuits that monitor the engine oil temperature. However, if there are cooling system problems, the diagnostics designed to confirm the proper operation of the EOT can interpret the results as a failure in the EOT system. For this reason, cooling system issues need to be addressed first.
What causes the P0195 code?
  • Faulty engine oil temperature sensor
  • Problems with the EOT circuit
  • Faulty powertrain control module (PCM)
  • Cooling system malfunctions
What are the symptoms of the P0195 code?
The only symptom is a Check Engine Light. The EOT system is there to detect other problems with your 2006 Jaguar XJ Series . If the circuits of the EOT system has problems, it will be unable to monitor the oil temperature.
How does a mechanic diagnose the P0195 code?
A scan tool should be used to watch the sensor data, but most often, a resistance check is performed on the sensor and is the final test performed before determining the source of the P0195 code.
Common mistakes when diagnosing the P0195 code
  • A technician chooses to replace the sensor without checking the wiring going to and from the EOT sensor.
  • Failing to check the reference voltage the PCM provides to the sensor.
  • Not identifying problems with the cooling system that can mimic the data that sets this code.
  • How serious is the P0195 code?
The P0195 code by itself is not serious. It will not leave an owner stranded on the side of the road. However, if the system is left unrepaired, it is possible that severe engine damage can occur if the EOT system is unable to detect the problems that it is suppose to monitor for.
What repairs can fix the P0195 code?
  • Replace the EOT sensor
  • Repair any damaged wiring in the EOT circuit
  • Sensor connector
  • Repairing or replacing the PCM (although this is fairly rare)
  • Repairing any cooling system issues
I just hope it is a stuck Turbo Valve..

A big thanks to J-Cat

Thanks to you all.. Any advice appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just posted this on the other forum . . .

Just read through this thread and I reckon it's a split intercooler. Well known, documented and common issue with this engine. The mention of hearing a whistling is what suggests it.
If you know where to look, you can see the split (ask me how I know).



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I have just returned from my usual Jaguar specialist who have managed to retrieve the OBD error codes. They have managed to book the car in a week on Friday.. I was hoping to get it fixed before then but J-Cat are so busy

I have just updated my post if you are interested.

Thanks again for your input
 
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