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Mornin All,

Just to update, on Saturday the yellow "Check Engine Light" decided to come on, I was sure it was related to this issue but had a concern that maybe an EGR issue had arisen from the turbo issue but as I was booked into E&E on Wed and I didn't need to go anywhere on Sun, Mon or Tue it wasn't necessarily an issue.

I dropped the cat off to E&E at 9am yesterday, they removed the bypass valve, cleaned and lubed it, cleared any codes and took her out for a 20 mile test run of variable driving conditions, including high rev accelerations, no more codes, not more CEL and I picked her up at 5.30pm the same day.

She's driving lovely again, punched the accelerator to over 3500rpm and she just kept on pulling and never skipped a beat, no more lights, just smooth graciousness.

The fix cost just £198, which the dealers I bought it from are refunding to my account today (they couldn't authorise direct payment to E&E in time for me to pick the same day and I have meetings today).

So, alls well that ends well and getting back in after 160 miles in the 2004 XType 2.5ltr petrol reminds you of just how comfortable and luxurious she really is.

Thanks again to you all for your advice and support.

Dom
Sorry, a dumb question; this is the actuator that OBC John showed, behind the radiator?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Sorry, a dumb question; this is the actuator that OBC John showed, behind the rediator?
TBH I'm not entirely sure, by the sounds of it, with the right knowledge and tools anybody could do it, when I spoke to E&E I heard both the words actuator and valve, so whether it was the bypass valve itself, the actuator and whether that controls the valve or not I wouldn't know but possibly Hamed or john might know better.

Anyway, it appears to be a relatively quick, easy and cheap thing to fix, if you go to the right place, another garage, also a Jag specialist, suggested it would cost anything between £500 to £2500 to fix, with the £500 being if they replaced the throttle body but E&E straight away said that it their experience it's likely this and that it would cost circa £250, so I went to them, I've used them several times and they have always been great.

Sorry I couldn't be more useful.

Dom
 

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TBH I'm not entirely sure, by the sounds of it, with the right knowledge and tools anybody could do it, when I spoke to E&E I heard both the words actuator and valve, so whether it was the bypass valve itself, the actuator and whether that controls the valve or not I wouldn't know but possibly Hamed or john might know better.

Anyway, it appears to be a relatively quick, easy and cheap thing to fix, if you go to the right place, another garage, also a Jag specialist, suggested it would cost anything between £500 to £2500 to fix, with the £500 being if they replaced the throttle body but E&E straight away said that it their experience it's likely this and that it would cost circa £250, so I went to them, I've used them several times and they have always been great.

Sorry I couldn't be more useful.

Dom
Hey, no probs. Someone will chime in!
 

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FWIW, I believe that is what has been cleaned and lubed. The "failure" of that valve actuator is a common, well-known and well-documented issue. It is quite easy to access, hence the low cost of the repair.
 

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Hi Guys,

I just got my first restricted performance, it's a 2013 275bhp 3ltr D, I was joining a dual carriageway and had to accellerate hard so as to not hold up cars approaching from behind when it happened, my revs were relatively high, in the 3500 range.

I slowed down and pulled over at the first convenient place, turned off the ignition, got out and locked the car for a min, then got back in and restarted, at which point the RP had vanished.

Since then I have been ensuring that I keep the revs below 2500rpm and it hasn't returned, I haven't tried goimg over 3000rpm to see if it happens again, I've contacted the dealers as the cat is still under warranty and I'm just waiting for them to come back with details for me to take it in for diagnostics/fix.

My assumption is that it's related to the seconary turbo, perhaps the actuator, my reason for this assumption is that this engine has the same intercooler and hose for both turbos (I may well be wrong with this) and that if it was related to the intercooler or it's hose the RP would also happen when the first turbo kicks in at around 2000rpm, on my previous XF 2.2ltr Sportbrake the split intercooler hose would mean that the split would open and trigger even when the first turbo kicked in or just when pressure reached a certain level I guess.

Am I on the right track? Are my assumptions correct? What else could it be?

Thanks in advance,

Dom
Can definitely be caused by sticking turbo actuator…..use copper grease to lube it if you can get at it. I had a similar issue on my old Freelander 2, but it actually turned out to be the glow plugs that had caused the problem which seems odd, but true. I was on my way to a holiday at the time and had to get it repaired at a local garage near to the site. Sadly they put in the wrong glow plugs (5v instead of of 12v) so they didn’t last long, but it did cure the issue. I had to replace them again after a couple of weeks for the correct type. Probably not the garage fault, probably just the supplier sent the wrong ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Happy Monday All,

I just wanted to give an update on this, a couple of days before I went in to get the fix done I got the CEL appear on the dash, they cleared the codes before returning her to me and she was driving beautifully. The following Saturday I went out from a scenic drive and the CEL came back on, so I returned home via Halfords for some Wynns EGR cleaner as well as some millers snake oil (which I added a double dose straight away) and when I got home I ordered the Autel AP200 which I got the next day.

So, on Sunday I did the EGR cleaner, read and cleared the codes, went for a test drive and all was fine, the rest of the week the Cat sat idle as I was busy with work but I did scour the threads, so on Saturday before going out I cleaned my MAP.

I don't know if it was just in my head (or my foot ;-) ) but I don't ever recall her accelerating quite so vigorously before, plenty of spirited driving later and she's purring, no CEL lights, the only problem was the noise coming from the passenger seat but that's a noise that I can handle.

Fingers crossed all is well and good again, although I'm still eyeing an upgrade to a more recent version, such as a 2018 model.

Thanks all,

Dom
 

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Hi Dom, the incessant noise from the passenger seat is something that is well documented and is difficult and costly to get rid of!;):eek: Phil
 
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I had exactly the same problem, Restricted Performance on hard acceleration but in my case it turned out the DPF was full. Everything was fine after I had it removed and cleaned, but 6 months and 2500 miles later the DPF amber light came back on and wouldn't clear, even after a long motorway run. I was told it was most likely the secondary turbo that was sticking. However, the DPF was checked and found that it needed cleaning again, though it wasn't as bad as the first time. This time the acceleration is better than it was last time the DPF was cleaned so I'm still not really sure what happened, as I hadn't used it much and hadn't done many short journeys.

All I can do now is see how it goes for the next few months but it might be worth bearing in mind, the first time around I wasn't getting any DPF warnings at all, just the Restricted Performance on hard acceleration.

Also be wary of those diagnostics devices, mine is the highly rated (apparently) iCarsoft LR v2, but prior to cleaning the DPF this time, I tried to set it up for a forced regen and it was telling me I had 3300 grams of soot in the DPF (yes, 3.3 kilos!). Obviously that couldn't have been right. I checked it again after it had been cleaned and it still reads over 2kg.
 

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I had exactly the same problem, Restricted Performance on hard acceleration but in my case it turned out the DPF was full. Everything was fine after I had it removed and cleaned, but 6 months and 2500 miles later the DPF amber light came back on and wouldn't clear, even after a long motorway run. I was told it was most likely the secondary turbo that was sticking. However, the DPF was checked and found that it needed cleaning again, though it wasn't as bad as the first time. This time the acceleration is better than it was last time the DPF was cleaned so I'm still not really sure what happened, as I hadn't used it much and hadn't done many short journeys.

All I can do now is see how it goes for the next few months but it might be worth bearing in mind, the first time around I wasn't getting any DPF warnings at all, just the Restricted Performance on hard acceleration.

Also be wary of those diagnostics devices, mine is the highly rated (apparently) iCarsoft LR v2, but prior to cleaning the DPF this time, I tried to set it up for a forced regen and it was telling me I had 3300 grams of soot in the DPF (yes, 3.3 kilos!). Obviously that couldn't have been right. I checked it again after it had been cleaned and it still reads over 2kg.
I don't mean to hijack this thread, but does the iCarsoft LR v2.0 read the Auto Transmission temperatures (for transmission oil changing for example)?
 

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I don't know the answer as I've never looked on mine, but I would expect it too. However, I've just simply pointed a laser temperature probe at the gearbox sump in the past.
 

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I don't know the answer as I've never looked on mine, but I would expect it too. However, I've just simply pointed a laser temperature probe at the gearbox sump in the past.
I've considered getting one of these, and I'm considering doing the tranny oil change by myself. The only thing I don't have is the temp sensor readout from the tranny. If this item included that feature, I'd probably push the button. Quite reasonable at the mo'...
 

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It's easier with the laser temperature sensor as you're under the car waiting for the temp to get right, top up, then get the bung screwed in, no need to get up top. You know you should get the iCarSoft anyway so once you have one you'll never need it.
 

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Remember to check that you can get the fill bolt/plug out before you drain the oil!!
 
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I've considered getting one of these, and I'm considering doing the tranny oil change by myself. The only thing I don't have is the temp sensor readout from the tranny. If this item included that feature, I'd probably push the button. Quite reasonable at the mo'...
That's the one I have and that's the one that's showed I had 3.3kg of soot in the DPF when I tried a forced regen - and is currently showing just over 2kg a week after I've had it cleaned. Whether it's something on the car that's causing the abnormal reading or the unit itself I'm not sure. It's in for MOT on Tuesday so I'm going to ask them why I'm getting the odd reading.

Worth shopping around, I paid around £105 for mine on ebay about a year ago, although prices may have gone up since.
 

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That's the one I have and that's the one that's showed I had 3.3kg of soot in the DPF when I tried a forced regen - and is currently showing just over 2kg a week after I've had it cleaned. Whether it's something on the car that's causing the abnormal reading or the unit itself I'm not sure. It's in for MOT on Tuesday so I'm going to ask them why I'm getting the odd reading.

Worth shopping around, I paid around £105 for mine on ebay about a year ago, although prices may have gone up since.
Thanks for the reply. Can you please check to see if you can access the temperature readings in the transmission?
 

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Completely forgot to be honest, I've been run off my feet the past couple of weeks. It's going in for an exhaust leak at the front tomorrow though and I always take readings straight after it goes in for anything so I can check if anything changes, so I will take a more in depth look.
 
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