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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

I just got my first restricted performance, it's a 2013 275bhp 3ltr D, I was joining a dual carriageway and had to accellerate hard so as to not hold up cars approaching from behind when it happened, my revs were relatively high, in the 3500 range.

I slowed down and pulled over at the first convenient place, turned off the ignition, got out and locked the car for a min, then got back in and restarted, at which point the RP had vanished.

Since then I have been ensuring that I keep the revs below 2500rpm and it hasn't returned, I haven't tried goimg over 3000rpm to see if it happens again, I've contacted the dealers as the cat is still under warranty and I'm just waiting for them to come back with details for me to take it in for diagnostics/fix.

My assumption is that it's related to the seconary turbo, perhaps the actuator, my reason for this assumption is that this engine has the same intercooler and hose for both turbos (I may well be wrong with this) and that if it was related to the intercooler or it's hose the RP would also happen when the first turbo kicks in at around 2000rpm, on my previous XF 2.2ltr Sportbrake the split intercooler hose would mean that the split would open and trigger even when the first turbo kicked in or just when pressure reached a certain level I guess.

Am I on the right track? Are my assumptions correct? What else could it be?

Thanks in advance,

Dom
 

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I think you've got the diagnosis right, Dom. The secondary turbo should kick in around 2800 rpm. The actuation valve is powered by vacuum and is known to stick. It happened to my XF with the same engine. Replacement is quick and simple (by the dealer).
My personal opinion as to why this problem is lack of use. If this valve isn't used, it will seize so now I try and make it a daily habit of opening the taps to bring in the secondary turbo. "Use it or lose it". Plus, it's fun. :LOL:
 

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My 2012 XFS did the same when I joined a motorway under heavy acceleration.

The diagnosis on mine was a split inlet manifold. Switch off and on again would clear the restricted performance warning but it would come on again unless I was very gentle.

I was warned to be careful driving it with restricted performance showing as the DPF won't regenerate whilst the light is on.

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In my case (yes, I've had this as well) of a split intercooler, although the RP did clear each time after an ignition cycle there was a distinct whistle/whooshing sound when giving it the beans and just before the RP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think you've got the diagnosis right, Dom. The secondary turbo should kick in around 2800 rpm. The actuation valve is powered by vacuum and is known to stick. It happened to my XF with the same engine. Replacement is quick and simple (by the dealer).
My personal opinion as to why this problem is lack of use. If this valve isn't used, it will seize so now I try and make it a daily habit of opening the taps to bring in the secondary turbo. "Use it or lose it". Plus, it's fun. :LOL:
Thanks John,

I do "give it beans" whenever the opportunity presents, just because it's fun and people don't expect a car over 5m long to accelerate like that, although as I work from home now Mon - Fri she rarely goes out apart from the weekends so that could possibly lead to stickiness.

I will keep you posted on the diagnosis.

Dom
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My 2012 XFS did the same when I joined a motorway under heavy acceleration.

The diagnosis on mine was a split inlet manifold. Switch off and on again would clear the restricted performance warning but it would come on again unless I was very gentle.

I was warned to be careful driving it with restricted performance showing as the DPF won't regenerate whilst the light is on.

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Hi Jay,

In my case, once shut down the RP dissapears and doesn't re-appear, at least not so far but I have been keeping the revs below 2500rpm

Wouldn't it be the same manifold for both first and second turbo, in which case I would also get RP when the first turbo kicks in at around 2000rpm

Whilst I'm keeping it below 2500rpm I wouldn't go as far as to say I'm being particularly gently, just easing off before I reach that point.

Thanks Jay,

Dom
 

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I reckon the only way you'll know for sure is to get it plugged in and diagnosed.

Hopefully your warranty will sort it whatever the problem.

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It’s definitely a boost leakage. Either internally or externally. However the symptoms are very similar to split manifold. The reason you don’t have it at lower revs is that if it’s a hairline crack, you need some pressure for it to let the air out. It will grow over time and you get RP more often and earlier. Just look for a mist of oil around the engine specially under plastic cover. Under foam covering the injector. Throttle shut off valve, etc.

Whatever the reason is, note RP will prevent and stop the DPF regeneration. You might end up with a red dpf message.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It’s definitely a boost leakage. Either internally or externally. However the symptoms are very similar to split manifold. The reason you don’t have it at lower revs is that if it’s a hairline crack, you need some pressure for it to let the air out. It will grow over time and you get RP more often and earlier. Just look for a mist of oil around the engine specially under plastic cover. Under foam covering the injector. Throttle shut off valve, etc.

Whatever the reason is, note RP will prevent and stop the DPF regeneration. You might end up with a red dpf message.
Thanks Hamed,

Do you know where exactly I should look? So, if I open the bonet and peer in, which direction ;-)

Dom
 

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Thanks Hamed,

Do you know where exactly I should look? So, if I open the bonet and peer in, which direction ;-)

Dom
For inlet problems:
Remove engine plastic cover, check back of plastic cover for any traces of oil. There are a few Orings that might fail there.
then lift off the foam that covers injectors. It should be bone dry there.

for intercooler it should behind right headlights ,closer to the under tray. If it’s leaking oil there.

also look for any hissing noise when revving the engine. I’d check this when engine is warm.

If none of these, it could be bypass valve, secondary turbo shut off valve ( both only used when secondary turbo kicks in and out). Or the MAF sensor that goes to secondary turbo could be faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
For inlet problems:
Remove engine plastic cover, check back of plastic cover for any traces of oil. There are a few Orings that might fail there.
then lift off the foam that covers injectors. It should be bone dry there.

for intercooler it should behind right headlights ,closer to the under tray. If it’s leaking oil there.

also look for any hissing noise when revving the engine. I’d check this when engine is warm.

If none of these, it could be bypass valve, secondary turbo shut off valve ( both only used when secondary turbo kicks in and out). Or the MAF sensor that goes to secondary turbo could be faulty.
Thanks again Hamed,

I will take a look when I get a chance.

Dom
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just to update, I've just stopped by "Surrey Jag Centre" in Redhill, the plugged in their OBD for diagnostics (at no charge), so it looks like, as suspected, it is the secondary turbo actuator thats stuck, see the attached image.

I've booked in with them and contacted the place I bought the Jag from to get approval and the process for their warranty to cover it but SJC can't do it until May the 11th, Roy, the owner who is a Jag master technician and been working on Jags for over 40 years advised it's fine to drive as long as I don't go wild and keep the revs below 3000, so driving Miss Daisy it is for the next 4 weeks.

Thanks all for your advice, I will update again later.

Dom
Personal computer Font Display device Electric blue Electronic device
 

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You could try giving it a liberal spray of silicone. It might free it up but nothing to lose.
It looks like this and you can see it, low down behind the radiators.


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You could try giving it a liberal spray of silicone. It might free it up but nothing to lose.
It looks like this and you can see it, low down behind the radiators.


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Thanks John,

I will bear that in mind but first call is to get the dealers I bought it from to fix it properly, perhaps with a new actuator under thier warranty, if that fails for some reason then I guess I would need to start looking at alternative methods.

TBH, when my previous cat was written off, this replacement was essentially a stop gap, by Oct I will be fully paid up and will be looking to trade it in and upgrade to a 67 or 18 plate, I only have £2k left to pay, so I minght just pay it off in June and upgrade sooner, been looking at these 2 options;



I doubt they will still be available when I'm ready but it does get me salivating.

Dom
 

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Both very nice, Dom. There'll be others when you're ready to buy.

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Just to update, I've just stopped by "Surrey Jag Centre" in Redhill, the plugged in their OBD for diagnostics (at no charge), so it looks like, as suspected, it is the secondary turbo actuator thats stuck, see the attached image.

I've booked in with them and contacted the place I bought the Jag from to get approval and the process for their warranty to cover it but SJC can't do it until May the 11th, Roy, the owner who is a Jag master technician and been working on Jags for over 40 years advised it's fine to drive as long as I don't go wild and keep the revs below 3000, so driving Miss Daisy it is for the next 4 weeks.

Thanks all for your advice, I will update again later.

Dom View attachment 191895
Just to update, I've just stopped by "Surrey Jag Centre" in Redhill, the plugged in their OBD for diagnostics (at no charge), so it looks like, as suspected, it is the secondary turbo actuator thats stuck, see the attached image.

I've booked in with them and contacted the place I bought the Jag from to get approval and the process for their warranty to cover it but SJC can't do it until May the 11th, Roy, the owner who is a Jag master technician and been working on Jags for over 40 years advised it's fine to drive as long as I don't go wild and keep the revs below 3000, so driving Miss Daisy it is for the next 4 weeks.

Thanks all for your advice, I will update again later.

Dom View attachment 191895
Unfortunately it seems to be secondary turbo shutoff valve that sits on the back of turbo. It’s vacuum operated. Hopefully it’s a vacuum leak.
They can gain access by removing right side exhaust down pipe for diagnosis. I doubt it would be the turbo bypass valve that is easy to access.
There is no turbo inlet valve. There is on at air outlet (bypass valve) and one at exhaust inlet (shutoff valve).
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Mornin All,

Just to update, on Saturday the yellow "Check Engine Light" decided to come on, I was sure it was related to this issue but had a concern that maybe an EGR issue had arisen from the turbo issue but as I was booked into E&E on Wed and I didn't need to go anywhere on Sun, Mon or Tue it wasn't necessarily an issue.

I dropped the cat off to E&E at 9am yesterday, they removed the bypass valve, cleaned and lubed it, cleared any codes and took her out for a 20 mile test run of variable driving conditions, including high rev accelerations, no more codes, not more CEL and I picked her up at 5.30pm the same day.

She's driving lovely again, punched the accelerator to over 3500rpm and she just kept on pulling and never skipped a beat, no more lights, just smooth graciousness.

The fix cost just £198, which the dealers I bought it from are refunding to my account today (they couldn't authorise direct payment to E&E in time for me to pick the same day and I have meetings today).

So, alls well that ends well and getting back in after 160 miles in the 2004 XType 2.5ltr petrol reminds you of just how comfortable and luxurious she really is.

Thanks again to you all for your advice and support.

Dom
 

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Good news Dom!
 

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Good news! And that the selling dealer is doing the right thing!
I do wonder if all that is needed when that secondary turbo valve actuator gets replaced (as happened to me) is actually just a clean and lube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Good news! And that the selling dealer is doing the right thing!
I do wonder if all that is needed when that secondary turbo valve actuator gets replaced (as happened to me) is actually just a clean and lube.
Andy at E&E did say that this is the most common problem and fix, surely if I'd gone to a dealer, with a Jag warranty, they'd have replaced the whole thing rather than just clean and lube, the clean and lube method may well be more reliable than just a replacement but there's no way to quantify this.

Thanks,

Dom
 
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