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MY 2012 XF S Portfolio Ultimate Black
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started having problem with turn signal on my left tail light. Normally it should stay on for 500ms and then off for 500ms. Mine started to do like 100ms on and 900ms off. All individual leds switch on as well as stop, backup, etc. So it’s not earthing issue. It switched the lights and problem followed the light. Used and external 12v power supply and still the same. It seems the led driver inside the light shuts them down immediately to protect them. Probably it senses high current draw. I decided to have a look before buying another one. So there are two ways to fix this problem:
1- just use a 15-20 ohms high power resistors (mor than 10watts) in series on wires that goes ro pin 1. This would drop the voltage that reaches the led strip to 6-7volts and the problem will be gone. However this will drop the illumination to about half. It’s still bright enough for daylight. You can do this for both sides so they match.

2- You can gain access to driver board or leds by cutting access holes. Please don’t attempt to remove the lens because you will break it even by use of heat gun or oven.
You can see how where I cut in below photos. I used a soldering iron and I would recommend it to avoid leaving dusts inside the light unit. There is a flexible pcb glued to an aluminium sheet behind where I cut so you won’t damage any of electronics. This pcb is for night lights/ stop light and distributes power to turn signal/backup light board that you will see by removing the first one.
where you cut is actually holding the first pcb a d you have to find a way to fix it to the plate you have cut. You can use double aided tape or any other glue but it cannot move that much. I refreshen soldering on almost all components I could reach on turn signal pcb and it eventually started to work but I couldn’t figure out which one was causing the issue. I then put cut piece back and used silicone to seal it. You can also use an spare abs sheet and glue it. This part doesn’t do anything with strength of light structure and there is a lot of clearance behind it when is installed to accommodate added thickness. Unfortunately I don’t have a photo of it after adding the silicone sealant but I did try attended carwash and water didn’t get in. I am planning to cover the whole area with an abs sheet.

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Nice work, only thing that's solved the heavily reported issue outside of replacing a unit...

Interesting to see longevity of the repair
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nice work, only thing that's solved the heavily reported issue outside of replacing a unit...

Interesting to see longevity of the repair
I will update you for sure. The only doubt I have is that I couldn’t spot the fault. So I refreshed all soldering points. However apart from sealing the unit, there shouldn’t be a problem because in worst case, you remove the pcb and replace it with a custom one. Even you can have sweeping led strips. Just wanted to show that they are repairable. I don’t understand why JLR didn’t leave an access panel where I cut. Because it seems like it was made for access. Also this method has been mentioned for BMW (Led driver fails on X3) and Audi( the led cells fail).
 

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I have the earlier model so don't have LED or certainly not as much, I have no doubt you know what you're doing, I haven't the foggiest! But it could save at least some the proboem of having to go full replacement, potentially a service to offer for someone inclined and competent...
 

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So was this just down to a dry weld then?

Was there one particular joint that was bad?

Good fix anyways. Were you not tempted to get the glue gun out to seal up the PCBs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So was this just down to a dry weld then?

Was there one particular joint that was bad?

Good fix anyways. Were you not tempted to get the glue gun out to seal up the PCBs?
Mine was definitely humidity dependent. Probably needed cleaning, had a cracked joint or one of the components are on the way out. I did soldering because I couldn’t find the exact cause. Plus a similar issue on bmw x3 is from failing soldered joints. It’s certainly a false positive. It’s trying to protect the LEDs from over current so it’s switching it off just after triggering. Funny enough I feel it is slightly brighter than the one I didn’t touch.
I didn’t seal the pcb because I though maybe the problem could happen again and I need access. Otherwise I would like to seal it.
 

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Nice one Hamed!! Good write up for the collective too. :cool:
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok indicator started to play again. I did another surgery. On a closer look I realised one led out of 27 was gone. Workshop manual says if one is not working, driver board will switch off all of them. That’s why it flashes. Don’t understand why they did this.
Replaced the driver board with a generic one. Now it works and I can adjust the brightness. But the repair was time consuming. Won’t recommend it unless someone knows a way to take the lens off.
 

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Ok indicator started to play again. I did another surgery. On a closer look I realised one led out of 27 was gone. Workshop manual says if one is not working, driver board will switch off all of them. That’s why it flashes. Don’t understand why they did this.
Replaced the driver board with a generic one. Now it works and I can adjust the brightness. But the repair was time consuming. Won’t recommend it unless someone knows a way to take the lens off.
Hamed, my OSR indicator tail light is now playing up (I replaced NSR last year but at c£300 if there is any chance of saving this one I will. Do I need any special soldering skills, and where could I get a driver board from please? I do have the old one for last year that I could practice on if it's advisable.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hamed, my OSR indicator tail light is now playing up (I replaced NSR last year but at c£300 if there is any chance of saving this one I will. Do I need any special soldering skills, and where could I get a driver board from please? I do have the old one for last year that I could practice on if it's advisable.
I used “This” driver but you don’t need it. I damaged the original board accidentally because my last guess was leds causing that behaviour. It was very easy to convert them to sliding indicators if the other one was faulty as well and I had time to open that.

Below is what I have now. “Left” one is repaired.
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I broke one wire during installation and 3 leds are not working. however I set the voltage slightly higher following the datasheet for the LED.
This is the link to LEDs. Keyword is “LA E63F” for the part and is made by Osram. A means it is amber and F means the pin configuration that you need. I know this because I got both wrong! I ordered orange and wrong pin configuration. I manage to take this shot. As you can see 3 LEDs are missing which are one group in the circuit. (Last 2columns on right supposed to have 4 leds each) You can tel which LEDs I have replaced. Only one was gone. But others were flickering when I applied a higher voltage. So I replaced them.
185193

It’s almost impossible to spot those missing leds by eye. It’s a shame because of them original driver shut all indicator off!
 

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Not checked in the dark yet, will try to look tomorrow. I don't think lights are out, the lights just flash really quickly, amost flickering. Just thinking, I have a 12v battery in the garage, can I just connect that up somehow to test on the bench? Presume I would have to find the live & earth. I have replied to our PM.
 

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I connected my battery up to my old “faulty” NSR, all the lights lit up including the indicator (all LEDs)! Put it back in my car, worked OK.

Tried the OSR but the indicator there still didn’t work, all other lights OK. Swapped one of the others & they work fine. I do have a replacement unit coming for that one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I connected my battery up to my old “faulty” NSR, all the lights lit up including the indicator (all LEDs)! Put it back in my car, worked OK.

Tried the OSR but the indicator there still didn’t work, all other lights OK. Swapped one of the others & they work fine. I do have a replacement unit coming for that one.
This happened to me but started playing when winter started. Initially I had problem on rainy days. But then it became permanent. The problem is one individual led for indicator. If it doesn’t lit, the whole indicator switches off immediately making it look like it is flashing.
you can test this using a battery or power supply. Also if you reduce the voltage down to 9v it will lit regardless of any failed individual led.
try the OSR then. I am sure if you look closer some of the individual leds won’t lit when it flashes. Just like the photo I shared in my last post.
Columns of NSR should have a number of LEDs like this:
1-2-3-3-3-3-4-4-4

OSR is symmetrical to NSR.
 

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This happened to me but started playing when winter started. Initially I had problem on rainy days. But then it became permanent. The problem is one individual led for indicator. If it doesn’t lit, the whole indicator switches off immediately making it look like it is flashing.
you can test this using a battery or power supply. Also if you reduce the voltage down to 9v it will lit regardless of any failed individual led.
try the OSR then. I am sure if you look closer some of the individual leds won’t lit when it flashes. Just like the photo I shared in my last post.
Columns of NSR should have a number of LEDs like this:
1-2-3-3-3-3-4-4-4

OSR is symmetrical to NSR.
Thanks Hamed. When I connected it on the bench to an old battery (c12v) there is no relay so all the LEDs came on permanently (as per your 1-2-3-3-3-3-4-4-4), so I don't think any of them were faulty. I seem to recall when I replaced it last year it was suffering from condensation so now it's dried out it's OK. There is a section of the lens where there is a lot of "crazing", maybe that's where the moisture is getting in. Same on the OSR, that has condensation.
 

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I used “This” driver but you don’t need it. I damaged the original board accidentally because my last guess was leds causing that behaviour.

When you say you don't need the new driver, do you mean you only needed it because you damaged the driver PCB when attempting the original repair, and you now realise that what was needed was to replace the faulty LED(s)?

Assuming you did replace the led(s) in the end, what sort of job is that? Doe sit require specialist eqipment?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes correct. I have a cheap soldering iron with adjustable temperature. All you need is a sharp tip, soldering flux a solder sucker or desoldering wire (or any kind of spare copper wire) for cleaning.
By driver I meant a constant-current supply module. The way I did it, light will work regardless of number of LEDs that lot up. The original circuit will kill the whole light if even one led stops working.
Led is an Osram part number starts with LA E65F. Rest of part number defines the light intensity and colour name is Amber.
 

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Thanks for the fast reply. You also say "Won’t recommend it unless someone knows a way to take the lens off. "..... so how did you replace the LEDs?
It sounds like it might be easier to change the driver PCB, assuming only one or two LEDs are failing.
Mine is just starting to fail.. 50% of the time indicator works fine. Bit worse since I washed the car yesterday!!

Thanks for any further help you can offer.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the fast reply. You also say "Won’t recommend it unless someone knows a way to take the lens off. "..... so how did you replace the LEDs?
It sounds like it might be easier to change the driver PCB, assuming only one or two LEDs are failing.
Mine is just starting to fail.. 50% of the time indicator works fine. Bit worse since I washed the car yesterday!!

Thanks for any further help you can offer.

Mike
Driver and LEDs are all parts of one PCB. It is flexible pcb. So it has a body stuck to an aluminium plate and 11 strips (9 for indicator and 2 for reverse) attached to it. It worked for me. But I cut the back of light for access and glued it back in when I was done. I took all of them out, changed LEDs and damaged the driver. Replaced the driver and put them back in. You can see driver when cutting the back plate. You could bypass driver pcb and
Thanks for the fast reply. You also say "Won’t recommend it unless someone knows a way to take the lens off. "..... so how did you replace the LEDs?
It sounds like it might be easier to change the driver PCB, assuming only one or two LEDs are failing.
Mine is just starting to fail.. 50% of the time indicator works fine. Bit worse since I washed the car yesterday!!

Thanks for any further help you can offer.

Mike
I won’t recommend it because it’s not straight forward and could be messy. Before I realise it was LED, I damaged the driver. Just check which LEDs are gone on yours using method mentioned above. If it’s towards centre of the car it’s much easier that being close to reverse leds. You could ignore those failing LEDs and bypass the original driver without taking everything out.
you have to cut back of the light to gain access.The lens seems to be welded.
 
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