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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After doing a 50 mile brisk motorway journey I heard a squeaking coming from the rear as I crawled through a car park.

Got out to check and the calipers were both a little warm but equally so. However, the n/s/r alloy was hot and mainly in the centre. The caliper on this corner is almost brand new, but could this be a shot bearing?
 

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Could be, but could also be a sticky caliper. The wheel contact patch with the disk is the hub centre of the wheel.
Check the inner pad on both sides, you may be on metal.
 

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Also worth checking the opposite side, it’s not uncommon if the other side is stuck the good side does all the work
 
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If you just jack the car up and rotated it by hand, you could hear a bad bearing easily. It sounds like a loud tyre noise on motorway and is worst when you go over 50mph.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks all. Although the caliper is new, it is a Dingbro special :eek: so I'm not ruling it out that it could be the new caliper. The pad is looking a little low on the outside, I couldn't really see the o/s/r pad properly with my quick check but sod it, I'm going to replace the pads. They were good initially but I'm not happy with them now (Bosch pads) so will pop some Brembo ones in.

Going to use the garage at work to get the wheel off for a proper look and see what's what. Hopefully it is the caliper and not the bearing! lol
 

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I doubt it will be the bearing Graham. Hameds comment on speed is relevant. Modern rear car bearings are difficult to identify when failing they go stiff when you turn the thing by hand but not when wheel or disc is turned. They make a noise as hamed said at around 50 MPH especially when cornering. It will be the Pads/caliper relationship or hand brake cable, I always round up the edges on new pads and make sure they are smooth running in the caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good to hear thanks! Hopefully find out tomorrow.
 

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Good to hear thanks! Hopefully find out tomorrow.
Any updates? I am in a similar situation. Today I checked:
-Rear bearings. I just looked for noise when turning by hand (nothing) and free movement(again nothing)

  • Inner and outer lips of rims. No bending.
  • Tyres for uneven wear, bumps or damages to them. Again nothing.

I am about to change Diff oil. There was only minimal oil leak from one of prop shaft seals. Like what few drops can spread. Any idea what else it could be. I think I need to check tracking as well. The noise sounds more like tyre rolling noise but tyres are not new and I cannot hear anything below 40-50mph. It’s worse at about 70-75mph. And when I put car in N at motorway speed it doesn’t go away. Nor it changes under acceleration, deceleration or going over bends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Any updates? I am in a similar situation. Today I checked:
-Rear bearings. I just looked for noise when turning by hand (nothing) and free movement(again nothing)

  • Inner and outer lips of rims. No bending.
  • Tyres for uneven wear, bumps or damages to them. Again nothing.

I am about to change Diff oil. There was only minimal oil leak from one of prop shaft seals. Like what few drops can spread. Any idea what else it could be. I think I need to check tracking as well. The noise sounds more like tyre rolling noise but tyres are not new and I cannot hear anything below 40-50mph. It’s worse at about 70-75mph. And when I put car in N at motorway speed it doesn’t go away. Nor it changes under acceleration, deceleration or going over bends.
No update just yet, today was picking up rear Brembo pads, chainsaw chain sharpening, gaming, taking my son to basketball and then a slightly disappointing Line of Duty. Tomorrow is Jaguar day and I plan to service all the brakes including checking all the mating surfaces as I'm getting judder yet my slide pins are recently done.
 

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Any updates? I am in a similar situation. Today I checked:
-Rear bearings. I just looked for noise when turning by hand (nothing) and free movement(again nothing)

  • Inner and outer lips of rims. No bending.
  • Tyres for uneven wear, bumps or damages to them. Again nothing.

I am about to change Diff oil. There was only minimal oil leak from one of prop shaft seals. Like what few drops can spread. Any idea what else it could be. I think I need to check tracking as well. The noise sounds more like tyre rolling noise but tyres are not new and I cannot hear anything below 40-50mph. It’s worse at about 70-75mph. And when I put car in N at motorway speed it doesn’t go away. Nor it changes under acceleration, deceleration or going over bends.
My car was making some strange noise from the rear that I couldn’t identify. No play in the wheels or noise when turning by hand. I even sat in the rear whilst my wife drove the car. Couldn’t identify a side to the issue. Turned out the diff was goosed. New one fitted under warranty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Looks like it's the caliper. Replaced both of the rears only two months ago. Got it from Dingbro, although it's got Jaguar stamped on it.

Some bush play as well which I was made aware of about two years ago by Prestige Jaguar. This might be causing the judder?
 

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My car was making some strange noise from the rear that I couldn’t identify. No play in the wheels or noise when turning by hand. I even sat in the rear whilst my wife drove the car. Couldn’t identify a side to the issue. Turned out the diff was goosed. New one fitted under warranty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks. That’s what I am worried about as well. If new oil make a difference, it is more likely to be the case. I maybe end up installing a Gopro there and see what’s happening.
If I jack both rear wheel off the ground, will the car let mw to spin rear wheels when traction control is off? Just like a dyno test.
 

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Looks like it's the caliper. Replaced both of the rears only two months ago. Got it from Dingbro, although it's got Jaguar stamped on it.

Some bush play as well which I was made aware of about two years ago by Prestige Jaguar. This might be causing the judder?
Do you feel the vibration through steering wheel or brake pedal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Do you feel the vibration through steering wheel or brake pedal?
Steering wheel, it's exactly the same as the classic brake judder I got ages ago but managed to cure by cleaning up the brakes and slide pins.

Well, finally finished. There was no uneven wear on any of the rear pads, so I thought that maybe the calipers were ok. But then I tried to wind them back (after putting the EPB in service mode) and neither of them would budge, so I replaced them both just in case and replaced the Bosch pads with some new Brembo ones. The mating faces were all ok as well.

I stupidly pressed the brake pedal very slightly to start the car before the new calipers had filled with fluid so I think I've introduced some air into the system, so once the pads are bedded in I'll know better and can get the pressure bleeder on it.

As for the Jaguar stamp which was on both of the old rear calipers and which was confusing us, well the new calipers which came also had Jaguar stamped on them. Then I spotted the word "refurbished" and it all made sense.
 
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Steering wheel, it's exactly the same as the classic brake judder I got ages ago but managed to cure by cleaning up the brakes and slide pins.

Well, finally finished. There was no uneven wear on any of the rear pads, so I thought that maybe the calipers were ok. But then I tried to wind them back (after putting the EPB in service mode) and neither of them would budge, so I replaced them both just in case and replaced the Bosch pads with some new Brembo ones. The mating faces were all ok as well.

I stupidly pressed the brake pedal very slightly to start the car before the new calipers had filled with fluid so I think I've introduced some air into the system, so once the pads are bedded in I'll know better and can get the pressure bleeder on it.

As for the Jaguar stamp which was on both of the old rear calipers and which was confusing us, well the new calipers which came also had Jaguar stamped on them. Then I spotted the word "refurbished" and it all made sense.
If you did not have any brake fluid leaking from callipers, there is no air added to the system.

Rear warped discs can pulse the pedal and that pulse could be transference to front callipers and make steering to shake.

Even wear on the pads doesn’t mean discs are flat though. You need a dial indicator or very list, when rotating the disc by hand, hear nothing from pads or something that is there regardless or rotation.

I just went for a drive and cannot convince myself the noise is from diff. It is exactly the same regardless of load, selected gears or engine rpm. Also the frequency feels like to be very close to wheel spinning speed. It’s just like a plastic trim touching the tyre and only noticeable above 50mph but there is nothing. Also it has been introduced recently. I haven’t changed anything making it to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you did not have any brake fluid leaking from callipers, there is no air added to the system.

Rear warped discs can pulse the pedal and that pulse could be transference to front callipers and make steering to shake.

Even wear on the pads doesn’t mean discs are flat though. You need a dial indicator or very list, when rotating the disc by hand, hear nothing from pads or something that is there regardless or rotation.

I just went for a drive and cannot convince myself the noise is from diff. It is exactly the same regardless of load, selected gears or engine rpm. Also the frequency feels like to be very close to wheel spinning speed. It’s just like a plastic trim touching the tyre and only noticeable above 50mph but there is nothing. Also it has been introduced recently. I haven’t changed anything making it to start.
Sorry, I should have been a little more detailed. I had the bleed nipped loosened to draw the brake fluid through until it would start leaking. It was whilst the nipple was loose that I pressed the brake pedal a little.
 

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Sorry, I should have been a little more detailed. I had the bleed nipped loosened to draw the brake fluid through until it would start leaking. It was whilst the nipple was loose that I pressed the brake pedal a little.
I guess you had a pipe going to a bottle or bleeder valve attached. It’s the case there should not be a problem. Otherwise you should already feel pedal travels too much after you press it harder than normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I guess you had a pipe going to a bottle or bleeder valve attached. It’s the case there should not be a problem. Otherwise you should already feel pedal travels too much after you press it harder than normal.
No bottle or anything, just had the nipple cracked open and waited for gravity to do its job slowly as I installed the pads etc. When the fluid eventually started coming out I tightened up. However, the n/s EPB cable was proving a little difficult to reconnect so I went to turn the handbrake on and off manually, which would involve pressing the brake pedal and it wasn't until I felt it heading towards the floor that I remembered the bleed nipple was open. I'm guessing it will have sucked some air back in as I took my hoof off the brake pedal.

Anyway, it's all irrelevant now as I got my pressure bleeder out today and bled the system thoroughly. Love that device, it makes life so easy and pretty much flawless. Only down side is I find I use more brake fluid as I like to let it run through for a while. Got a lot of air out of that caliper and a little out of the other three. Brakes are good now and just need the rears to bed in fully. :)
 
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