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Photos? Oh yes. Lots and lots of photos after each step. And with a short write up it can be added to the "How to" section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Well, the deed is done. It took me just over two hours to change the door lock actuator. The new £30 lock from Ebay (D2P) works well and all my locking problems are solved. The phase that took the longest was drilling out the rivet that connects the actuator to the door handle mechanism - the rivet kept spinning round and it was difficult to grip the underside of the rivet while holding drill in the other hand. Manoeuvring the old lock and door handle mechanism out of the doorcavity was a bit of a nightmare but with a bit of jiggling with the window winder mechanism, it eventually came out.

I'll put together some photos and words to describe what I did to submit to the forum. What's the best format - .pdf attachment or text and photos in a post?

CVB
 

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Well done CVB. Very satisfying to do a job like that oneself.

It is an easier read to post in text and photos. If anyone wants a 'copy' for reference, they can copy-paste it themselves.
 

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Well done indeed CVB, it ain't as easy as it sounds to manoeuvre the riveted together mechs out is it..

Mine had the added 'fun' of having to release and then reattach the electrical connector for the door handle push button too.. though tbh if you RTFM first.. it might not be as bad as I experienced... :rolleyes:

Agree with John on the easier to read on the forum.. but a pdf'd version for people to be able to print out as well would very welcomed and appreciated in the future I'm sure.. (y)
 

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Nice one. Got there in the end, and working to after your own hands and effort is the sweetener.

For spinning rivets (usually pop rivets), angle the drill so that it cuts the material between the rivet head and shank as it spins. If it ain't spinning, then use the drill normally.
 

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Superbly done CVB :cool: .. (y)

Thank you for taking the, what looks like, considerable amount of time to document the process in an easily readable and understandable way...


Please feel free to add it to the How To Guides section here: How To Guides so you can take the due glory... :cool:
 
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I've had a minor problem with the nearside passenger door lock for a couple of months. The door would not open from the outside but worked on the inner door handle. Now, it will not open at all. There is full movement on both inner and outer door opening handles but the door remains locked. It looks like a fault in the door lock but as the door is firmly shut, I cannot get to the lock to replace it.

Does anybody have a sure-fire fix for opening a locked rear passenger door?

Could this problem be a software problem - battery was changed some months ago but this door is not used much so it could stem from that - or is it likely to be the failure of one of those dreaded little motors in the lock mechanism?
Has anybody actual replaced those motors or is it simpler to buy a new lock complete - they're on Ebay for about £30?

Thanks for any help.

CVB
I have the same problem with rear side passenger side jamming on my Jag F-Pace. It doesn't open from inside nor outside. It was repaired by Jaguar in Barnet last year and the same problem has recurred a year later. I feel it’s about time Jaguar owned up to a manufacturers fault given the numerous complaints on such a specific matter especially given its a safety & emergency matter.
 

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I have the same problem with rear side passenger side jamming on my Jag F-Pace. It doesn't open from inside nor outside. It was repaired by Jaguar in Barnet last year and the same problem has recurred a year later. I feel it’s about time Jaguar owned up to a manufacturers fault given the numerous complaints on such a specific matter especially given its a safety & emergency matter.
As your's has failed so soon after replacement, you're likely to be able to claim it under the part guarantee. Jaguar will never admit their door locks are not fit for purpose, nor make a recall. What'd they fit? More of the same.
 
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As your's has failed so soon after replacement, you're likely to be able to claim it under the part guarantee. Jaguar will never admit their door locks are not fit for purpose, nor make a recall. What'd they fit? More of the same.
the issue with RR has still to rectified..their fix is to change all the handles
 

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the issue with RR has still to rectified..their fix is to change all the handles
With modified items, I presume? Else next zub-zero day you're out there with the hairdryer again.
 
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With modified items, I presume? Else next zub-zero day you're out there with the hairdryer again.
I never asked tbh.
They have that Velar now ....will ask though.

Just received a cheque from the DVLA today and my balance from the trade in yesterday.
 

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As your's has failed so soon after replacement, you're likely to be able to claim it under the part guarantee. Jaguar will never admit their door locks are not fit for purpose, nor make a recall. What'd they fit? More of the same.
Thanks very much! I’ll call Jaguar HQ customer service as local dealer wanted to charge a sizeable amount.
 

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My rear drivers door lock failed in the open position.

After half an hour of tinkering, the door open/shut shut many times, it eventually failed in the closed position with the external gable failing to open it. I used a bungee between the back doors to get it to the dealership.

As far as I know all they did was re program the door lock module. It’s been grand since.

Definitely go back to them. Any part they fitted will have a two year part warranty.

You’ll need to email CRC as they aren’t taking calls due to COVID. They respond fairly quickly.
 

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Hi Everyone,
Hope all are doing well.


Unfortunately I am stuck in the same scenario where my XE driver door is completely deadlocked…not operating from outside or inside.
Do you mind helping me out by giving some tips and tricks please :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I'm not sure if the XE door mechanism is different to the XF but have a read of my posts #24 and 37, which might help or offer a way to experiment with the locking systems.

CVB
 

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Hi Everyone,
Hope all are doing well.


Unfortunately I am stuck in the same scenario where my XE driver door is completely deadlocked…not operating from outside or inside.
Do you mind helping me out by giving some tips and tricks please :(
Welcome.
Your best bet at the moment is to reset the door module by pulling the appropriate fuse.

The door module fuses on the X260 XF are in the psssenger footwell (RHD) fuse box. I’d imagine the XE will be similar. The fuses are listed on the back of the cover panel. I recently did this as my driver door window was not closing fully.

Leave the fuse out for 10 mins and replace. Hopefully it will reset the door will work again.

If that doesn’t work then you’ll either need to visit a dealer or find an independent Jaguar specialist with the right computer gear to reprogram the module.

You don’t say what year your XE is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Two and a half years ago, I documented my battles to change the rear nearside (left) lock on my 2012 XF 2.2d. I now find that I have a problem with the dreaded double-chirp after locking, caused by a problem with the driver's door latch/lock. I have bought a replacement but working on the front doors is quite a bit different to the rear doors. From the not-very-good videos on Youtube, the significant difference appears to centre on the need to do something with the window winding mechanism when removing the lock mechanism from the front doors.

The workshop manual seems to indicate moving the rear support for the winder mechanism out of the way but it's not clear if this involves removing the glass window itself.

Has anybody replaced a front door lock mechanism? What is necessary to remove the lock? Does the window have to be removed and the winder mechanism moved to allow the lock mechanism to be removed from the door cavity? Any help appreciated.

CVB
 

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How-to here . . . . Doesn't look as though you need to mess with the window mechanism.

 
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