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Rear door failing to unlock with fob, works with keyless

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11K views 22 replies 9 participants last post by  Ben  
#1 ·
Here's an oddity, and I wonder if this has happened to anyone else before I sling it at the dealer.

Setup-wise, I have the car set to only unlock the driver's door on first press of the fob button, and all doors on second. The car also has keyless entry.

Behaviour: When the car is locked, and deadlocked, one of the rear doors opens fine if you use the keyless entry, i.e. just walk up and pull the door, but it doesn't unlock if you use the fob. After two presses on the fob button, all the other doors are unlocked and open fine, except for this door. It won't even open from inside. You need to lock the car fully and open it with the keyless.

Deadlock fault on the door maybe? Same behaviour happens with both my fobs.
 
#2 ·
It won't even open from inside.
Well, this dumb idiot just remembered he has the childlocks on in the back, so that explains that bit :eek:

But still doesn't explain why it'll only open from the outside with the keyless, but not the key.
 
#4 ·
Tried that. No difference.

Next step is to turn off the 'only unlock drivers door' setting and see if that solves it. The only reason I use that is habit because my previous car didn't have drive-away locking.
 
#5 ·
Curiouser and curiouser.

I turned off the 'drivers door only unlock' and had another play. On first press of the fob button both front doors and back off-side can be opened. But not back near-side. On second press, back near-side can be opened. All doors work perfectly from deadlocked using the keyless entry.

Peering through the windows it seems like the lock latch above the handle on the problematic door doesn't come out as far as the other doors when the fob button is pressed. It comes out a little further on the second press which must be enough to release the locks. Child locks on or off makes no difference.

I've given it a liberal spray of 3-in-1, so will see if that soaks into the mechanism and frees it up a bit.
 
#6 ·
Sounds like the lock mechanism is broken. That's a common problem, and I had one of my rear door mechanisms replaced under warranty some time ago.

In my case it never locked with the fob, so one of the car doors was always unlocked although I thought it was locked. :eek: There is separate thread about that somewhere on the forum.
 
#7 ·
I had One of the bolts that hold the lock Mech. to door frame broke & jammed the lock stopping that door locking although the others did, not a big problem once the door card is off (Think by memory there are Three bolts bit like self tappers that screw into metal strips) I fitted a 5mm brass insert & 5mm pin. Hope this helps
 
#9 ·
Well, I suppose my consolation is that at least it's staying locked, so there's no security issue.

I'll sling it at the dealer next week.
 
#12 ·
I'd go for the suspect door lock mechanism too. Had the rear offside fail on me a few months ago. Took into dealer, and got fixed under warranty. Can also confirm what was said earlier, in that it's becoming a more common problem. Even dealer tech said that he had a few in that week for same fault.
 
#13 ·
Having said that, a wise thing to do is to check all door locks before your warranty expires. If I had to pay it myself it would cost me around € 400 at my local dealer.
 
#16 ·
This is now an example of "The Law Of Sod".

Booked the car into Stratstone for next Friday due to the boot release button failing, and asked them to look at this lock, plus diagnose what I hope turns out to be the 'tank slap' issue that afflicted the early cars.

And now the lock on the door starts working properly...
 
#18 ·
Ah, yes, wasn't very clear. Switch on boot lid. Works from the button inside the car and from the key fob. Just not from the button on the boot.
 
#20 ·
Well, I thought that, but everything else on the boot works. Lights, boot release from inside, everything. This does seem to be confined to the switch itself, but either way, the dealer should be able to figure it out.
 
#21 ·
It only needs 1 of the 15 wires to break and it will only affect the boot lock. You could come up to Sunday Club and try our spare repaired loom if you like to see if it fixes it

If it does it's a ÂŁ75 job for the part. Dealer will charge 1 hour to diagnose and 1 to repair I guess
 
#22 ·
Thanks for the offer. I'll see what the dealer comes back with, they need to see the car anyway to diagnose the tank slap issue and check out the rear door lock even though it's now started working.

I'll be rather disappointing if this all-singing and dancing Jaguar warranty doesn't cover it. Starting to wonder why I paid a premium for an 'Approve Used' Jag.
 
#23 ·
So it went into Stratstone today for diagnosis of this door lock, the boot, and 'tank slap'.

They reckon they've solved the door lock by 're-programming the locks and turning off two-stage locking'. Hmm, not convinced, because it should work with two-stage locking on as all the other doors. Will have a play with it and see how it goes.

As far as the boot button goes, the loom needs replacing.

They're going to get all work authorised by Jaguar under my extended warranty on Monday for the boot and the tank slap and give me a ring to let me know when they have the parts ready to fit. So far all good. They even washed it after having it for an hour's diagnostic work which I wasn't expecting and as a result didn't warned them not to. Thankfully it doesn't appear they've used TFR and taken off my wax. Service choppy was very apologetic and said to let them know next time. Apparently they have a big board in the workshop where they write the regs of cars that are not to be washed.