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I'm currently struggling with self-diagnosis of the same "Battery not charging" dash message. At rest, the main battery reads whatever is left in it (11.9v in this instance), and the small Stop/Start battery reads 13.1v or thereabouts.

With the engine running, the Stop/Start battery reads 14.3v but the main battery's reading doesn't change. If the alternator is defective, what causes the voltage increase in the Stop/Start battery when the engine is running?

Perhaps coincidentally, but I'm not so sure, from the start of the journey until around when the dash went red with the message (10-15 miles later), there had been a faint whining noise much like a worn bearing, matching engine speed in pitch variation and most noticeable at or near idle revolutions. From then, any trace of that noise has been entirely absent.
The small battery is charged by a "dc-dc convertor"/"charge pump" type charger which will be able to take power from the main battery ( and/or alternator if it happens to be running ), Jaguar call it the " Dual Battery Module". So best ignore the voltage of the small battery in your diagnosis.

It's worth checking that the battery terminals for the large battery are securely connected, that the negative cable from the battery is still secure at the bodywork end, and if you've just changed the battery that the thin wire that runs from the positve terminal on the large battery to the BMS module on the negative terminal is ok ( it seems it's a bit fragile and sometimes gets broken/damaged when the battery is changed. )
 

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Thanks, Phil.

I'm also baffled as to why the default safety mode when the voltage has dropped to critical levels is to prevent the car from being locked. Apart from the fuel filler flap, which you hear the lock firing. There's still power to allow the tailgate motors to work still, and set the alarm, but not to lock the doors. Mental.
 

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Do your locks attempt to lock and then unlock or not even try to lock? Loss of locks after a battery disconnect has been known I think, was it @ninjag that had it?
 

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When I try to lock it, either by the door buttons or the fob, I get the "confirmation" beep - and hear just the lock pin on the filler flap fire, but none of the doors or folding mirrors do anything. The indicators flash once. A brief moment later I get the twin "denial" beep - as if I've attempted to lock the keys inside. The alarm is set - you can see the red indicator lamp flash as usual. But you can just open any door - which then sets off the alarm.

The fob tailgate button works, as does global opening and closing, including the sunroof.
 

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Thanks, Pete. No, I haven't touched the battery, but it had discharged to such a state that it wouldn't start the motor, leaving me stranded at the local supermarket

My Ctek has recovered the battery now to rude health after 2 days on charge, so I just need to reset the system as per your linky - thank you again - and at least I can secure it again until I can get it to my indie.

Alternator is my prime suspect at the moment.
 

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Glad to have been able to help even if only a small way corned, doesn't really make up for the majority of my posts mind! :whistle: ...

I'd wager that the alternator is suspect numero uno too. Be wary though, I recall posts of cheap alternators not being good enough, unlike my original genuine Jaguar one that failed at 41K.. and the genuine Jaguar replacement that is currently 'under suspicion'... :rolleyes:
 
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So - still no locking. Car starts, runs, resets memory/comfort functions, mirrors, everything. Everything appears to work, except the doors locking. Dash does't say any are open.

Final question for today: What's the best route into SDD ownership?
 

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Hi corned, have you looked in the 'security' section of the main display to see what last triggered the security warning?

I suspect that it makes no difference though due to what you have previously posted...
 

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So - still no locking. Car starts, runs, resets memory/comfort functions, mirrors, everything. Everything appears to work, except the doors locking. Dash does't say any are open.

Final question for today: What's the best route into SDD ownership?
Hello corned,
do you mean how and where to download the software? Maybe you want to have a look at the end of this thread?
SDD and Mongoose
You can download SDD for free and you won't have to buy a license. But you will need to buy an OBD Adapter like the Mongoose JLR.

Dirk
 

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Thanks, Dirk. That looks like just the job. Would you mind telling me where you bought the Mongoose cable from (I am guessing they can ship to UK as well as Germany!), and where you downoaded SDD please?

Many thanks for your help.
 

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Thanks, Dirk. That looks like just the job. Would you mind telling me where you bought the Mongoose cable from (I am guessing they can ship to UK as well as Germany!), and where you downoaded SDD please?

Many thanks for your help.
Hallo corned,
I will post it this evening. Currently I don't have the information with me. Hope that is not too late for you. You are right, the adapter will be shipped to the UK, too.
Dirk
 

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Hello corned,

here is the link, where I bought the adapter. If the link will be deleted, I will sent it via the messenger.
JLR PRO
It will be shipped from China.
You will find the information regarding a shipment to the UK right when you open the website.
If you scroll down, you will find the links to the software and the patch. You will need the patch to run the software locally with some predefined account.

If you follow the link to the SDD software, you will need to download the red marked package
187451

You will not need the special driver version 159 which can be downloaded via the other link.

If you follow the link to the patch, you have to download the marked package. That's what's written in the readme.txt.

187452


If you wait for the adapter, you will find a cd with the SDD software inside the package. I was suprised to find this
inside the package.

Good advice from my point of view: If you install SDD on your normal laptop (every day use), please backup your system before. You will find out, that this SDD package is a very annoying peace of software that slows down your laptop. First time I installed SDD on my ASUS i7 Win10 Home system, I solved my problem and re-installed the backup. Then I bought a real fast flash drive and installed a whole Win10 + SDD on it. Now I can use SDD via booting my own Win10 with SDD from this flash drive. I only use this stick with Wifi switched off.
This works properly.

Maybe you have your own laptop only for your Jag. Like some other members. Then, of course, you won't need my "good advice" :). I don't know if you are familiar with Win10ToGo or patched software. If you need help, let me know.

Have a nice week.
Dirk
 

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Hi Dirk,

That's excellent - thank you so much. I have just ordered one, and will have a go at downloading the software later today. Thank you again. (y)
 
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