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Discussion Starter #1
Due to frequent "restricted performance" issues I ordered a new DFP system for my high milage (280.000 km) XF 3.0d (211 PS):
https://www.pkwteile.de/jmj/16154847
I decided to do this as it was less expensive than sending the original for cleaning. It clearly states (wrongly
) this should fit my car.
Once I dismantled the old one it was obvious the two front-facing pipes (before the DPF unit) were too long - 10,5 cm too long to be precise:


comparison of new and original DFP system. Front pipes on new one too long!

So I cut out a section and joined because it would take too long to replace:



Fitted perfectly - however when installing I then noticed that the second exhaust gas temperature sensor did not have a place to be inserted into the new system - directly behind the DPF unit.
Here is the place it is inserted in the original system:


2nd temp sensor attached after DPF unit on original system

sensor penetrates more than half diameter into the pipe

I decided to anyway install the new system (lacking a entry point for the 2nd temp. sensor after the DFP) to see if it would run - I of course had my doubts!
It started OK and ran really well for about 5 minutes before, as expected, the restricted performance came on.

So, my question is can I simply drill a small hole at the same position in the new exhaust pipe and MIG weld on a suitable nut with a tapered end that fits the sensor?

I could of course fall back to getting the original system cleaned however bit of a waste as cannot now return the new system so I think I should try!!

Any feedback would be appreciated as to why this is so different. Is it for the older 2.7d? I presume it will work fine if the temp sensor can be fitted properly without leaks (easy enough job once I find the correc tapered nut for the sensor).

One more thing - is it important to preserve the order of attachment of the 2 exhaust gas pressure tubes to the small piped before and after the DFP (to measure the pressure difference for activating regeneration process)?
 

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You've not really got much choice now! If me, I'd buy a suitable boss, drill the exhaust and MIG weld it on as you suggest. My basic MIG fitted with stainless wire will do (lumpy) stainless welds as well as mild steel with the same shield gas. Not perfect but it's good enough.

Second question, answer: Yes - Those pipes measure the pressure before and after the DPF so tell the ECU how much gas restriction is there so the percentage of contained soot can be worked out. Get them the wrong way round will quickly produce a DPF error, though can't recall exactly which.
 

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Due to frequent "restricted performance" issues I ordered a new DFP system for my high milage (280.000 km) XF 3.0d (211 PS):
https://www.pkwteile.de/jmj/16154847
I decided to do this as it was less expensive than sending the original for cleaning. It clearly states (wrongly
) this should fit my car.
Once I dismantled the old one it was obvious the two front-facing pipes (before the DPF unit) were too long - 10,5 cm too long to be precise:


comparison of new and original DFP system. Front pipes on new one too long!

So I cut out a section and joined because it would take too long to replace:



Fitted perfectly - however when installing I then noticed that the second exhaust gas temperature sensor did not have a place to be inserted into the new system - directly behind the DPF unit.
Here is the place it is inserted in the original system:


2nd temp sensor attached after DPF unit on original system

sensor penetrates more than half diameter into the pipe

I decided to anyway install the new system (lacking a entry point for the 2nd temp. sensor after the DFP) to see if it would run - I of course had my doubts!
It started OK and ran really well for about 5 minutes before, as expected, the restricted performance came on.

So, my question is can I simply drill a small hole at the same position in the new exhaust pipe and MIG weld on a suitable nut with a tapered end that fits the sensor?

I could of course fall back to getting the original system cleaned however bit of a waste as cannot now return the new system so I think I should try!!

Any feedback would be appreciated as to why this is so different. Is it for the older 2.7d? I presume it will work fine if the temp sensor can be fitted properly without leaks (easy enough job once I find the correc tapered nut for the sensor).

One more thing - is it important to preserve the order of attachment of the 2 exhaust gas pressure tubes to the small piped before and after the DFP (to measure the pressure difference for activating regeneration process)?
Can I go one step back and ask:
-if the RP message was only due to DPF warning? Did you see other errors?
-Which engine oil do you use in the car?
 

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280k wow very nice, any other issues since the 150k mark where I am?

Is any of the old exhaust sensor housing usable, as said it will be needed for measurements on how the dog is working.

Ive got RP quiet a lot over the years but it's driven perfectly this year till now cba looking what's wrong.

Last issue I stumbled onto was a blocked intake where the egrs come in both were huge soot balls I presume the egrs didn't work well either. If the new dpf doesn't work... Might be worth checking it with the millage and if it has not been running well.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

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You know RP will stop auto DPF regeneration. Right?
You have to either force it with SDD or solve the RP issue. I have 152k miles on the clock and DPF soot mass goes to 1.5gr after a DPF regeneration. Don’t understand why people have to replace DPF. I had red dpf warning when I had a crack intake manifold and wrong engine oil(high ash oil) but it is goes back to 1.5gr after just forcing the regeneration.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It looks llike the 2.7 and 3.0 versions are different. Krosfou have both listed:


Dear Horlicks, thanks a lot for looking into this! So, indeed the one I recieved from AutoDoc is for the 2.7d (Euro 4), whereas I need the one for the 3.0d (Euro 5).
In addition to shorter front pipes and the additional connection hole for inserting the 2nd temperature sensor after the DPF unit, the 3.0d unit has brackets on both (compared to only 1) front facing pipes for the strange rubber pieces. Presume these are for reducing vibration, as they do not actually attach to car.
What a waste of 350 EURO if this is a different type of DPF ceramic structure. My fault for being impatient!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You've not really got much choice now! If me, I'd buy a suitable boss, drill the exhaust and MIG weld it on as you suggest. My basic MIG fitted with stainless wire will do (lumpy) stainless welds as well as mild steel with the same shield gas. Not perfect but it's good enough.

Second question, answer: Yes - Those pipes measure the pressure before and after the DPF so tell the ECU how much gas restriction is there so the percentage of contained soot can be worked out. Get them the wrong way round will quickly produce a DPF error, though can't recall exactly which.
Thanks for your feedback cutlea01! I have ordered a suitable M12 bolt with fine threads (only have the larger spaced metric threads here in DIY warehouses) so will try the process with the help of my local garage guy (he has a MIG welder - I don't).
I think I have got the tubes the right way round onto the exhaust pipes but there was no indication which is which and I forgot to take a picture.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Can I go one step back and ask:
-if the RP message was only due to DPF warning? Did you see other errors?
-Which engine oil do you use in the car?
Hi hamedhbb, the only warning I have had this past few weeks is the red "Restricted Performance" warning with the resulting reduction of acceleration power.
I should note that this only happened after relatively long motorway runs at higher speeds. This made me worry about potential hairline cracks in the intake manifold (as has been reported) that would become problematic when the engine became really hot. However last week I decided to blast the car a few times prior to it being fully warmed up and the RP came on. This, together with a slightly more sluggish performance then previously makes me think it is indeed a partially blocked DPF that cannot be regenerated properly any more.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
280k wow very nice, any other issues since the 150k mark where I am?

Is any of the old exhaust sensor housing usable, as said it will be needed for measurements on how the dog is working.

Ive got RP quiet a lot over the years but it's driven perfectly this year till now cba looking what's wrong.

Last issue I stumbled onto was a blocked intake where the egrs come in both were huge soot balls I presume the egrs didn't work well either. If the new dpf doesn't work... Might be worth checking it with the millage and if it has not been running well.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Hi alh2k, I bought the car in 2017 with 200 k on the clock and it had full service history from Jaguar. I have had absolutely no problems with the engine - it runs really well and smooth and I get on average between 7.0 and 7.6 litres per 100 km fuel ecomomy. I try to drive reasonable most of the time.
I actually put on a tuning chip couple of years ago (did make it more responsive) but removed because I got a RP message when I was on the motorway at around 200 km/h.
I am therefore happy with its reliability in gereral...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You know RP will stop auto DPF regeneration. Right?
You have to either force it with SDD or solve the RP issue. I have 152k miles on the clock and DPF soot mass goes to 1.5gr after a DPF regeneration. Don’t understand why people have to replace DPF. I had red dpf warning when I had a crack intake manifold and wrong engine oil(high ash oil) but it is goes back to 1.5gr after just forcing the regeneration.
Thanks hamedhbb, I actually did not know that activation of RP would cancel the regeneration process. Do you know if a one-time activation of RP will permanently deactivate regeneration or if regeneration is prevented only when RP is active? The RP does not stay on permanently on my car, just when I make the car work hard.
 

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The problem could have been with the air inlet circuit (cracked intercooler/pipe/turbo valve etc.) in addition to the manifold problem you mentioned, leading to incomplete combustion, more soot and a blocked dpf.
For what its worth, my diesel XF was run exclusively on Aral Ultimate fuel as this is (was?) FAME free in Germany.
 

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Thanks hamedhbb, I actually did not know that activation of RP would cancel the regeneration process. Do you know if a one-time activation of RP will permanently deactivate regeneration or if regeneration is prevented only when RP is active? The RP does not stay on permanently on my car, just when I make the car work hard.
No but in my case RP was coming back every time I was cruising or accelerating. So there wasn’t enough miles and time between two RP that ECM could trigger an active regeneration. I.e. to check engine temperature, speed, increase the exhaust temp, etc. If the RP doesn’t come back for few hundred miles, I guess it will go ahead for regeneration.

if RP clears every time you switch off the car but comes back when you accelerate to cruise just over 60mph, you have a boost leak somewhere. Either to atmosphere or through bypass valve. If you read the fault codes it’s easier to diagnose it.
 

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Worse case on failed regens is when it dumps fuel from the dpf into the oil, this in turn sets the service indicator on from about 2000miles then drops quickly to 0, dpf also does not regen when service ind is on. It will start to regen above 40km though which is nice, all the scare stories of drive it like you stole it arnt true for this engine I have found.

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for your replies. I have just been to a guy round the corner and he will clean out my old system for 200 Euro and I can collect Friday. Here is the link to the cleaning process, which seems to be very professional and I saw the machine just an hour ago when I dropped off the exhaust there. Wish I had seen this DPF cleaning option round the corner from me a bit earlier - usually it costs about 400 Euro.
I will then re-install the cleaned, original DPF this weekend and report back on whether this fixed my PR problems.

This will also give me time to get the new DPF unit I bought further modified (adding the input hole/bolt for the 2nd temperature sensor). I guess this modified new DFP unit will be a backup, or something I can sell on eBay...
I just hope it is the same type of ceramic DPF substrate used for both the 2.7d and 3.0d!

I am also going to change the engine oil and filter this weekend.

Interestingly, the service indicator came about 3 weeks ago, saying it was due in 2200 km. This has gradually reduced to 1900 km now.
 

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Thanks for your replies. I have just been to a guy round the corner and he will clean out my old system for 200 Euro and I can collect Friday. Here is the link to the cleaning process, which seems to be very professional and I saw the machine just an hour ago when I dropped off the exhaust there. Wish I had seen this DPF cleaning option round the corner from me a bit earlier - usually it costs about 400 Euro.
I will then re-install the cleaned, original DPF this weekend and report back on whether this fixed my PR problems.

This will also give me time to get the new DPF unit I bought further modified (adding the input hole/bolt for the 2nd temperature sensor). I guess this modified new DFP unit will be a backup, or something I can sell on eBay...
I just hope it is the same type of ceramic DPF substrate used for both the 2.7d and 3.0d!

I am also going to change the engine oil and filter this weekend.

Interestingly, the service indicator came about 3 weeks ago, saying it was due in 2200 km. This has gradually reduced to 1900 km now.
Best of luck with the cleaning. Next time (if there is one) it may be worth cleaning it yourself. Pressure washer, preferably with hot water, and that's it. No chemicals or cleaners. Start from the exhaust side blasting towards the inlet side and watch all the ash come out. Then do the reverse. I'll be doing my own when the ash starts making regens more frequent as I can't imagine the regen process is particularly good for the engine etc.
 
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There was a YouTube video posted not long ago about household items and cleaning the dpf he used a shop mixed too and the best was a vinegar mix I think

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Discussion Starter #19
Collected the cleaned (original Jaguar) DPF from the guy this morning so will re-install tomorrow. He said a lot of dirty ash came out during the 90 minute cleaning process (connected first in reverse and then in normal exhaust direction using both pipes). The print-out from the machine shows a pressure of 54 mbar before cleaning, which was reduced to 7 mbar after cleaning. He told me it is close to the values expected for a new DPF. I asked about reading/clearing the error codes and he told me to come buy and he will do this for me with his system once I have re-installed the DPF. Very nice and helpful guy! The OBD Bluetooth connector I have for my VW golf is not suitable apparently. I have now ordered a iCarsoft i930 (link) for reading codes on the Jag myself.
 

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I think iCarsoft is able to force the DPF regeneration. Not sure though
 
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