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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Hello, today I ended up doing an oil and filter change.

For some reason I failed to be able to unscrew the oil filter cover. It was so tight my wrench slipped. Do they get pressurised and not want to move? I am guessing it is the normal anti clockwise to unscrew?
Yes, just normal rh screw (anticlockwise to unscrew). I do remember it being quite tight. Do you mean the socket slipped? I wouldn't try it with just a pipe-wrench. Invest in a 32mm socket.


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Bought a oil filter socket set especially. The set uses a 3/8" socket on the wrench side. My normal hand wrench thought it was so tight the mechanism slipped.

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Bought a oil filter socket set especially. The set uses a 3/8" socket on the wrench side. My normal hand wrench thought it was so tight the mechanism slipped.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Mechanism slipped? I've never seen a rachet wrench with a clutch, I guess the rachet mechanism wasn't up to the job of undoing a large plastic oil filter. Invest in a better quality tool? Halfords (don't laugh) pro range of tools are actually very, very good.
 
Best to get a 32 mm 1/2" socket, that'll crack anything (assuming you have a dirty derv, the petrol oil filter is different with no "nut" on top).
The oil filter seal can get stuck on very hard with the heat cycles, not to mention apprentice gorillas at the dealership over-tightening the c**p out of it.
I could not budge the oil filter on the XFR no matter what I tried until I eventually found a strap wrench with rubberized grips at my local auto parts store.
 
I used to change filters on previous cars and found the best tool was the huge 'socket' that fits over the whole filter body. I don't know if one of these would work with the Jag access?
 
a few year ago, I was doing a oil service on family members Vauxhall got filter plastic housing off no problem, but put it on wrong thread on tightening up:rolleyes: it was leaking, could not get the thing off with a socket or a spanner and broke a oil can extractor tool but got it off, all cracked by this time so had to go to scrappie buy one cost me a tenner:( every time I remove one now I put plenty oil on the thread before I tighten up it goes on lot easy:eek:
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Bought a oil filter socket set especially. The set uses a 3/8" socket on the wrench side. My normal hand wrench thought it was so tight the mechanism slipped.
In my experience, ratchets don't slip. You seem to be describing a torque wrench.
As has been said, a 32mm socket with 1/2" drive and a T bar should do the job. If you can't shift it manually, a few "impact" taps with a hammer on the end of the bar will start it turning.

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Thanks guys, yesterday I ordered a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter as part of an adapter set. Hopefully get it off then.

I suspect it has damaged my wrench as a normal one and was the mechanism slipping on the teeth.

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Thanks guys, yesterday I ordered a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter as part of an adapter set. Hopefully get it off then.

I suspect it has damaged my wrench as a normal one and was the mechanism slipping on the teeth.

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mind put on the new gasket on the plastic housing, comes with the filter, also smear some oil on it and the thread for easy putting back on
 
Best to get a 32 mm 1/2" socket, that'll crack anything (assuming you have a dirty derv, the petrol oil filter is different with no "nut" on top).
The oil filter seal can get stuck on very hard with the heat cycles, not to mention apprentice gorillas at the dealership over-tightening the c**p out of it.
I could not budge the oil filter on the XFR no matter what I tried until I eventually found a strap wrench with rubberized grips at my local auto parts store.

Sounds kinky
 
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Did my own oil service this morning. Here's a few photos and I hope, a helpful description of the procedure.

Posted elsewhere but here's what you're going to need plus a 32mm socket:

View attachment 149369

I bought the extractor off eBay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-9L-MA...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Get the engine warm but then wait 10 minutes to allow the oil to drain down to the sump. Then up with the bonnet and off with the engine cover. If you've never done that, it just pulls of after first removing the oil filler cap. This is what you'll be looking at -
View attachment 149377

That thing with the hexagonal plastic nut is the filter housing. Employ your 32mm socket to - and get this right or you'll almost certainly let oil drip out - unscrew this 5 TURNS and then leave it to drain.
View attachment 149385

Nest locate what would be the dip-stick . .
View attachment 149393

And take off the top (just half a turn and off it comes) . .
View attachment 149401

At this point you bring the extractor into play and this is where you can benefit from my "mistake". The thing itself comes with three nylon tubes and the instructions say to insert one or other of the two smaller ones down the dip-stick tube until it reaches the bottom. Then attach the big tube and connect other end to the vacuum tank.
No!
I tried this but it soon became apparent that nothing was happening as I was pumping away.
In short, you push one of the rubber connectors over the dip-stick tube itself (thereby creating a seal), push one end of the large (10mm) tube into it . .
View attachment 149417

and the other end into the connector on top of the vacuum tank - like so . .
View attachment 149409

If/when I do this again I'll buy a longer tube though. I had to sit the extractor on an upturned bucket to reach.

Anyway, pump away and lo and behold, the oil veritably gushes into the vacuum tank. Brilliant!

Measuring it afterwards, a good 6 1/2 litres came out (the manual says it should be 6.6 litres).

At this point you can now fully unscrew the filter housing and remove it. There wasn't a single drip when I did it.
This is what you'll see. The filter itself is the circular thing. It took some pulling out as I think it engages over a couple of plastic tabs in the bottom but a small screwdriver pushed into the side enable me to lever it out.
View attachment 149425

Press the new one in and make sure it seats all the way down.
The new filter will have come with an O-ring. You can just make this out in the photo. Pull off the old one. Smear some of the clean engine oil on the new one and put it in place.
Replace the housing with new filter. The manual says torque it up to 25 N-m. I just gave it a firm tug! Felt like 25N-m!

So, now for the new oil. I assumed I'd need the 6.6 litres but initially added just 6.
View attachment 149433

This is what the manual says to do now. Run the engine for 10 minutes. Stop the engine then check the level from the display - turn ignition on and using the trip button on the end of the indicator stalk scroll to the "Oil" display. Now press the "Cancel" cruise button twice within 2 seconds. This refreshes the reading. If the it says level OK, turn off the ignition, wait 5 minutes and then check again. If still OK, then you're good to go.
If it says "Add ? litres", then add what is says. Wait 10 minutes (for the level to settle) and do the check procedure again.

Mine actually said "Add 1 litre"! Meaning that I'd actually be putting 7 litres in. I did and got the "OK" reading.

All done.
Super!
Will get this sorted asap!!
 
I've been using this extraction method for a few years now. So easy! So clean!

A few additional tips.

When you let the engine sit once warm just before the extraction to let the oil drain to the sump, do give it enough time and make sure the oil fill plug is removed so you're not causing a vacuum and the oil will drain easily.
And once you get near the end of the extraction, you'll hear the tube sucking air and vibrating. Leave it for a minute and give it a few more pumps, and repeat a few times. You will get another half litre out.

There are a lot of screw threads on the filter housing. These prevent any leakage effectively without tightening it much. It does get harder to turn the more you screw it on just through friction from all the threads, but once you feel it stopping, just use two fingers to cinch it up. No need to use any excessive force and you don't want have to use brute force to remove a plastic part.

The dash oil level guage only shows a half litre from one end of the bar to the other, so under filling first and topping up slowly is the go because overfilling is easy, and not what the engine likes.
I've found putting six litres in first, then checking and topping up works best.
After all there's no need to rush doing it this way. The whole process only takes about a half to 3/4 hour.
Compare that with lifting the car and draining into an oil pan.
 
Thanks Mark, some good tips there.
After 45 years of draining the old oil by removing the sump plug I bought a vacuum pump a couple of weeks ago and I will use it for the first time for the next oil change on the F-Type, it's gotta be easier and faster than crawling underneath to undo 30 odd bolts and screws to remove the undertray and then having to put them all back in again!
 
OK, so sucked out my oil today. 7.25 litres came out. That's a bit much? Put in 6 litres, didn't start the engine, oil level said OK but a notch down from full. Put another 0.5 litre in (6.5 litres in total now) and oil level was up to full. So where was the other 0.75 litres hiding? I've moved the car to it's usual parking spot, let the oil settle and the level is still full. Wouldn't an additional 0.75 lites put the oil level too high and the car would say so when the level was checked? Confused :confused3:
 
OK, so sucked out my oil today. 7.25 litres came out. That's a bit much? Put in 6 litres, didn't start the engine, oil level said OK but a notch down from full. Put another 0.5 litre in (6.5 litres in total now) and oil level was up to full. So where was the other 0.75 litres hiding? I've moved the car to it's usual parking spot, let the oil settle and the level is still full. Wouldn't an additional 0.75 lites put the oil level too high and the car would say so when the level was checked? Confused :confused3:
Dilution?

nahh ??

did you remove the oil filter before you extracted?
 
Dilution?
Don't think so, the oil smelt just like used oil, didn't smell strongly of diesel. But even if it was diluted and the quantity had increased, the oil level indicator didn't show it as being over full. My conclusion is that the oil level indicator needs more than 0.75 litres extra from full to show over-full.
 
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