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Yes, it is what is currently in mine and I have another 5 litres ready for the next oil change. It was recommended to me and seems to be good stuff, although I am not sure how you tell if it is any better or worse than the better known brands?
I changed my oil on Saturday there using suction method through the dipstick and worked surprisingly well. I did get thinking about oil tests and that there must be tests available because otherwise how do you get manufacturer approvals? I've seen the various YouTube videos and wonder how similar in nature they are to the manufacturer tests?

Anyway, I swapped out my Motul oil from Opie Oils with fresh Castrol oil from Halfords (which was to my surprise significantly cheaper than Euro Car Parts) and then found this video and wished I had got Motul again! lol Although my interest liesmore in how the oil performs after 5,000 miles in an engine.



Another one on some manufacturer brand oils.

 

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Yes, it is what is currently in mine and I have another 5 litres ready for the next oil change. It was recommended to me and seems to be good stuff, although I am not sure how you tell if it is any better or worse than the better known brands?
I didn't want to open another can of worms, but therein lies the problem. I would assume that the refinement processes are more, well, refined in a more expensive oil from a company that has the money to throw at the research. But there will also undoubtedly be an element of "paying more for the name" with brands like Shell or Castrol. However, there are various additives to take into account which will differ between manufacturers, but like with fuel there seems to be little reliable information on the subject.

I noticed when looking for Shell Helix on ebay to get a base price (£61 for 5 litres), you can buy Millers C1 XF Premium for £41, and Millers Trident Professional C1 for under (£30). For "Professional" I read "Trade", but the XF seems to have been specifically formulated for JLR. That one manufacturer supplies two different versions of C1 says that there must be some difference. 25% difference in price is a big gap.

I'm seriously considering the XF oil, £41 is a big difference to £61 and they seem to have a decent reputation. I've used the Millers Eco Max fuel treatment in a couple of tankfuls of fuel and while it's too early to tell properly, fuel consumption has definitely improved and the engine seems to be both quieter and more responsive.
 

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I changed my oil on Saturday there using suction method through the dipstick and worked surprisingly well. I did get thinking about oil tests and that there must be tests available because otherwise how do you get manufacturer approvals? I've seen the various YouTube videos and wonder how similar in nature they are to the manufacturer tests?

Anyway, I swapped out my Motul oil from Opie Oils with fresh Castrol oil from Halfords (which was to my surprise significantly cheaper than Euro Car Parts) and then found this video and wished I had got Motul again! lol Although my interest liesmore in how the oil performs after 5,000 miles in an engine.



Another one on some manufacturer brand oils.

That's the problem with these videos, I take most of them with a pinch of salt because you get these amateur tests for viscosity but at room temperature so a complete waste of time, while other seem to just look at the colour of the oil and things like that. I've never seen a long term test, but even then you could get two identical vehicles with identical mileage that have been used completely differently.

Just continuing from the previous post, I would think if you're changing the oil regularly and at least in line with the manufacturers recommendations, you'll probably be fine whatever you use. I would think the harder the car is used, where it is used (i.e. hotter climate, colder climate) makes a bit of a difference, but oil change recommendations are a lot longer than they used to be, especially with synthetic oil which doesn't break down as quickly, and most of us change the oil long before the official recommendation. On that basis the cheaper stuff should be good enough.
 

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I don't know if this will help explain the benefits of Ester based oils of which Mannol is one. Phil
 
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That's the problem with these videos, I take most of them with a pinch of salt because you get these amateur tests for viscosity but at room temperature so a complete waste of time, while other seem to just look at the colour of the oil and things like that. I've never seen a long term test, but even then you could get two identical vehicles with identical mileage that have been used completely differently.

Just continuing from the previous post, I would think if you're changing the oil regularly and at least in line with the manufacturers recommendations, you'll probably be fine whatever you use. I would think the harder the car is used, where it is used (i.e. hotter climate, colder climate) makes a bit of a difference, but oil change recommendations are a lot longer than they used to be, especially with synthetic oil which doesn't break down as quickly, and most of us change the oil long before the official recommendation. On that basis the cheaper stuff should be good enough.
I change my engine oil and filter every 6 months/6,000 miles which may seem excessive but I do a lot of short journeys, it's a hot running engine and as the oil is lubricating and protecting the timing chain and guides then I'm hoping it will prolong the life of such. It's an engine out job and there's four timing chains...gulp!
 

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Yes I would say that it has to be a balance between how often you change it, mileage, type of journeys etc. My opinion would be probably that if you are a light user and change the oil more often than the manufacturer recommendation then it's probably OK to use a more cost effective one, and vice versa if you're a heavy user. I don't think there's really any wrong answer, they have to meet certain standards and are probably all good enough, so it probably comes down to peace of mind again.
 

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I don't know if this will help explain the benefits of Ester based oils of which Mannol is one. Phil
That's interesting. I knew it was used in aircraft but I didn't know why.

Seems incredibly cheap though for something that's supposed to be an upgrade on anything else. The general feeling would be that there has to be some sort of catch?
 

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That's interesting. I knew it was used in aircraft but I didn't know why.

Seems incredibly cheap though for something that's supposed to be an upgrade on anything else. The general feeling would be that there has to be some sort of catch?
All I can say is that I have been using it for some time with no problems. Phil
 
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Here's a VERY interesting video on oil filters
That was a bit of an eye opener. It goes to show that even the known brands vary in quality and build. I guess all we can do as consumers is buy the better known brands from a reputable retailer, thus reducing the risk of buying a fake. I usually go for Bosch filters from somewhere like Euro Car Parts or GSF Car Parts (trade sellers on ebay).
 
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Discussion Starter · #193 ·
I wonder if the Fram was a counterfeit.
Yes, that occurred to me. Fram is a big name and big names have a reputation to uphold. I doubt they would be selling a cardboard filter.
 
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Like Rick I always use Bosch filters from either ECP or Carparts4less (same company), depends which is selling them cheapest. Phil
 

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Like Rick I always use Bosch filters from either ECP or Carparts4less (same company), depends which is selling them cheapest. Phil
I usually use Bosch, just ordered one from RTG Automotive on ebay. I don't know if they're the cheapest but the have a store (or used to have) in Leyland, which is where I bought one from the first time I used them. Just need to make a decision on the oil now.
 

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The results were quite surprising, although the general result was the the OEM one was near enough a good compromise between filtration and air flow. I was thinking about an SRI but heat soak would be an issue. The only change would be lots of supercharger whine! lol My OEM filter is a giant cone type anyway and enclosed. As far as I'm aware I can't increase the power in my car anyway via hardware mods without a remap/software mod as the power is software restricted.

As for oil filters, I always go genuine now after some concerns with 3rd party ones I got for my XF. There's a post on here somewhere about it where Mahle, MANN etc are discussed. The engine oil is the one area where I wouldn't want to mess around with flow, although I think there's a bypass system (unfiltered?) anyway should there be a blockage?
 

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You guys probably recall I bought a bunch of oil filters from AliExpress a while back, they were being sold as "genuine" in Jaguar branded boxes, with the correct part numbers. I got some more out of curiosity as they were very, very cheap, shipping from China was more than the product. However, they are excellent quality, other members went on to buy some themselves. Herein lies the issue though - while I can't prove they are fakes, the evidence would suggest they are, but they are high quality still. That Fram in the YouTube video is clearly made as a fake, to make a profit, so made as cheap as possible, hence the cardboard core rather than metal. It would surely collapse in use and also likely clog oilways if lose cardboard pieces are expelled? Poor quality fakes are a bane, I've been caught out with fake useless batteries and memory cards so far. Often, the consumer doesn't know they're fakes until the product fails or simply doesn't work. The case with that Fram is it could destroy your engine :(
 
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