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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. I have a rear wheel bearing on my 2011 XF that sounds very dry and is making a droning noise. The first problem is that its hard to identify what side needs changing.
The second problem is that although I'm pretty good with the spanner side of cars, I've never changed a wheel bearing on an XF. So maybe someone on here may like to pass on the correct order of how to do it? I have a pretty comprehensive tool kit as well but firs off I'll need to order some parts to start. Thanks. S
 

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Hi all. I have a rear wheel bearing on my 2011 XF that sounds very dry and is making a droning noise. The first problem is that its hard to identify what side needs changing.
The second problem is that although I'm pretty good with the spanner side of cars, I've never changed a wheel bearing on an XF. So maybe someone on here may like to pass on the correct order of how to do it? I have a pretty comprehensive tool kit as well but firs off I'll need to order some parts to start. Thanks. S
For first one, I have seen a video. Have the car lifted. Put car in drive. Touch back of wheel hub with a long screwdriver and put the handle next to your ear. The faulty one should make a distinctive noise.
for second one, I haven’t done it but have you checked workshop manual? Everything should be there.

also a side note, a bent rear rim will make a very similar noise to a failing bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi hamehbb. Thanks for the reply. I've done that with engines and the like but I haven't ever been under a large car with 20" wheels spinning whilst trying to put a long screwdriver on each hub, plus an ear on the end! I don't think I'll be doing that one.
I do have the Jaguar workshop manual on my PC but I was really looking for some comments from someone who has actually performed this operation for any good techniques and some do's and don'ts re changing the bearings.

I think I'll keep probing the subject as its a bit cold at the moment anyway. By the time it warms up a bit I'll probably have a better idea of doing the job. Thanks. S
 

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Along same lines as Hahmed, and prior to his post, I was about to suggest is it any possibility a duff tyre could be causing the noise.....?
Plus totally concur about lifting it and selecting drive......that could be a pants ruiner....! My mate is a real life brakes guru, ex.Ferodo Tech......won’t allow both sides of rear lifted to just do pads.....safety freak.....one side at a time, as Lena Martell once sang. Only suggest tyre as saw photo on here of tread through to steel reinforcement unbeknown to driver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for that Kev. I do like to be a bit safe when I work on motors.
The rear tyres were changed about a year ago because they were falling to bits. They were Dunlop sport max and they still had 6mm of tread on them. I could see the reinforcement down the cracks on the edges of the sidewalls. The fronts were also Dunlops and this year I had to change those as well for much the same reason. I've looked at the present tyres and they are all good.
The noise I can hear whines up at about 40mph and really whines at 55. Then at 70 it isn't as loud and I can hardly hear it
At first I thought it may be the diff but the noise doesn't change at all when I lift off the throttle. Also, I thought it may be the propshaft bearing but I haven't been under there yet to have a look. That may be my next move.

Just been under there and noticed that the near side spring is broken right at the lowest coil so that will be another job when I sort the bearings.
 

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doesn’t need to spin very fast. I have 12ton jack stands but I haven’t done it myself. It is safer if you take it to a garage with 2/4 post lifts.
But the note about bent wheel is my first hand experience both with my S-type and XF and they happened on inner edge that is not easy to see. The only difference to a failing bearing is you might be able could wheel turns speeds near 40-50mph and by 70mph it is loudest and very similar to a bearing noise. Also check if the noise reduces when going 40-50mph on turn to join an A road or motorway. Noise disappeared with a bent wheel for me.
 

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Sure it's not tyre noise? Does the noise change when the road surface changes?
I was convinced it was rear wheel bearing noise on the '08 XF I had but it was the tyres in the end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm wishing it might be Geoff. I may just leave it for a bit to see if it gets any louder with time. I've been under there this morning to see if I can see any filings. When I had a front one go on my XJ8 I could see the filings around the inside of the hub. I did try a lazer temp tester on both hubs the other day hoping to see that one may be hotter after a good run but they were both the same, or pretty close to one another.
This has been going on now for a long time and in that time the car has had an MOT. The place I take it to are pretty sharp and I did ask if all the wheels were true and they said they were all good and I've not really been far since then due to this lock down. These 20" jobs are renown for bending out of shape and that's why I always ask them about the wheels.
 

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You'll be a bit miffed if you change the bearings and it's still the same! Rear bearings rarely go, bet it's tyre noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh yes. Miffed would be mild! That's why I came on here. Its always a good thing to get others opinions. The broken coil was the first thing I spotted as soon as I got under there, and I had a 4 wheel allinment done after the rear tyre saga. Looking at it, its been like that for some time as well. I don't know yet how difficult it is to get the coil over shock off the car but it may be the first job to do in view of what you suggest.
I may buy a new one as there isn't a lot in the way of springs on the web. I bet they only come with the shock absorber.
 

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Springs and shock absorbers come as seperate items, need a spring compressor tool to change either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, I do have a couple of different size compressors. Shouldn't be too bad removing that, but famous last words!
 

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Diagnosing a modern wheel bearing is a real pain, years ago you could feel the roughness or play. Now they seam to just drone at particular speeds mostly when cornering. When you take a faulty one off you can hardly turn them by hand but when the wheel is on or even the disc you can't tell. If it is a wheel bearing it will be worse when cornering on that respective side. Try swapping the front tyres for the back and see if the sound changes.I would go with Geoff on this, try the tyres first.
 

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Spring/s first, then see how the land lies Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes. Springs, then have another look. I have to change the big bushes on the front lower arms so probably get the 4 wheel alignment stuff done again as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi all. Well here I am again!
I've left this bearing noise for over a year now. Had new tyres on the rear since my last post and the noise from the rear still prevails. Just lately this noise has got really loud after a 40 mile trip so I drove it home and jacked up the rear, put it on stands with the wheels removed and started the engine.
I have one of those battery powered probes that you plug a set of head-phones into and I've narrowed it down to the near side rear wheel bearing. At first I couldn't tell either side apart, until I gave the throttle a press. Then it was obvious but there is no play in the bearing and I can't hear it just standing next to it. No noise from the diff either using the probe.

Its now bearing change time and I've been all over all the forums looking at all the grief that others have had performing this task. Almost all the guys doing this have opted to buy a complete hub assembly off another car and swapped it out, which is what I'm going to do.
I've seen pictures of all the pullers in use and none of them have survived in use, probably as most of them were just not up to the task. I have an enormous hub puller that I'll try before I remove the whole assembly, just to have a go really. And here it is. The screw is a bit over 40mm and the threads are a square form so ought to be up to the job (hopefully)
Motor vehicle Rim Gas Automotive tire Automotive wheel system

Gas Metal Auto part Machine

I can barely lift this! And if it works I'll have a new bearing pushed in, keep it for a while in case the second-hand one fails!
 

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Now THAT is one serious piece of kit! And if that doesn't dislodge the hub I doubt anything would. Keep us posted.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I will John. I've been looking at all this everywhere for a long time now and so far, no-one has said they have done it.
I've seen pictures of the hub removed, leaving the drive-shaft behind in the diff but with no info as to how it was done.
The problem being that the post was so old. Still, If I can shift the wheel flange while the assembly is on the car I can hopefully take it to a man with a decent press. Thing is, I also don't want to force the drive-shaft hard into the diff.
 
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