My Stratus Grey XFR

30443 Views 492 Replies 51 Participants Last post by dhallworth, 5 d ago

dhallworth

Discussion Starter · Jul 26, 2018

26

Well, seeing as my Introduce Yourself thread has been done to death, I thought it was about time I started a Gallery thread.

I had some time to fettle with the car today.

First step was to replace the number plate filament bulbs with LED's. I also replaced the bulbs on the vanity mirrors with LED's as one of those wasn't working.

Next step was to sort the exhaust tips out.
Before:

After:

I then refitted the freshly painted SpeedPack Splitters.

And then went into a field of my folks for some out of the way photographs.

I'm smitten now, I can't wait to see it after it's paint correction next week

David.

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441 - 460 of 493 Posts

ninjag

· #441 · 4 mo ago

Just wondering, what's the symptoms showing that the snout needing attention?

OzXFR

· #442 · 4 mo ago

ninjag said:
Just wondering, what's the symptoms showing that the snout needing attention?

It's generally not the snout as such, rather the coupler/torsion isolator, but see below.
The symptoms are two-fold:
Firstly a pronounced rattle, like marbles in a tin can, very irregular and non-rhythmical, worst at cold start and gradually calms down as the engine warms up but still there even with a warm/hot engine.
Secondly, a loud "clonk" when shutting down the engine, which is the sound of the large spring in the coupler rebounding. Not every shut down but most times.
The spring rattles and rebounds because it has worn away large amounts of the plastic coupler and it is also rubbing against the SC shaft.
Lastly, after many years/miles of this wear the spring wears big grooves in the SC shaft, eventually so bad that the shaft spins out of balance and destroys the bearings which in turn ruins the whole SC.
Once the shaft has worn that badly then yes the whole snout needs to be replaced and in fact that is the official JLR warranty fix for the coupler rattle.
I had that fix done on my F-Type some five years ago now and guess what, the rattle and "clonk" are back again!

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dhallworth

Discussion Starter · #443 · 4 mo ago

I was getting a metallic clunk when switching my car off. I knew what it was as soon as I heard it so popped in to let the specialist hear it and he agreed.

Hoping I might get a call to go and get it today

David

ChrisSB

· #444 · 4 mo ago

Same noise mine had. Needed a complete S/C in the end though as there was play in the rotors when the replaced the snout.

ninjag

· #445 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

Thanks all, I was wondering because I've got the same s/c as the 3.0 Jag (TVS R1320), which appears to just be a smaller capacity version of the Eaton TVS R1900, and I was noticing a clonk when the revs return to idle (not when turning the car off - but then the clonk has already happened). I'm not sure if the Jag ones have an electromagnetic clutch (the four bolts on the pulley is the tell-tale sign - below) and maybe my clonk is different from yours and is just the clutch disengaging?

Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim Automotive design Engineering

I've watched a video with a brand new clutch being installed and it makes the clonk, however, there is a rattle I've heard recently. I though maybe a heat shield as it seems to be happening at a certain rpm and perhaps resonance or something causing it, but after listening a bit closer I think it is coming from the s/c area.

Here's a video, you can hear the clonk but it's that rattling noise just before it. Have any of your heard similar with your superchargers?

Thanks
G

UPDATE: I think the s/c is all good, someone who seems to know a lot about this s/c reckons it's the flexi pipes after the CATs, which would make sense as the CATs on this car are high up near the engine. Similar thing happened with him.

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dhallworth

Discussion Starter · #446 · 4 mo ago

That clunk does sound similar to the clunk I had on mine when shutting down.

The pulleys on the Jaguar superchargers I’ve seen have always been pressed onto the shaft, I’ve never seem them with 4 bolts like your picture.

David.

ninjag

· #447 · 4 mo ago

I'll keep an ear out to see if it gets any louder, but I'm now fairly confident it's normal for my type of s/c. I believe the electromagnetic clutch helps with fuel economy, although the clutch and associated parts cost about £700 and the book time is 6 hours (I would say 3-4 hrs in reality), so if it goes wrong then I suspect any fuel saving will be long gone!

OzXFR

· #448 · 4 mo ago

No clutch or bolts on the Eaton TVS supercharger pulley it's a press fit, albeit an incredibly tight one!
Also I can't hear much on that video and definitely not the worn SC coupler rattle or the shut down "clonk", both are rather loud and obvious.

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ninjag

· #449 · 4 mo ago

OzXFR said:
No clutch or bolts on the Eaton TVS supercharger pulley it's a press fit, albeit an incredibly tight one!
Also I can't hear much on that video and definitely not the worn SC coupler rattle or the shut down "clonk", both are rather loud and obvious.

Thanks for this. I think my money is on the Flexi pipe which a jubilee clip will apparently sort.

dhallworth

Discussion Starter · #450 · 4 mo ago

Just had the specialist on the phone.

Warranty company have authorised the replacement of the supercharger snout. However, one of the gaskets that they require isn’t available at the moment and is being mentioned as on back order for a couple of weeks.

The supercharger is coming right out to do the snout so they’re going to do the oil in the charger and I’ve discussed replacing the coolant pipes that run under the supercharger which they’re going to do at the same time.

Does anybody know the part numbers for the 2 plastic crossover pipes that run between the cylinder heads? Are they accessible with the charger removed?

David.

ChrisSB

· #451 · 4 mo ago

How old is your car? Is it worth getting the spark plugs done whilst the S/C is off?

dhallworth

Discussion Starter · #452 · 4 mo ago

It’s a July 2014 car.

I’ll ask them when I pick it up if the plugs are easier to get at whilst the charger is removed.

David

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ChrisSB

· #453 · 4 mo ago

It's just the rear two that are under the scuttle a little. The other 6 are fairly straightforward.

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MalcXFR

· #454 · 4 mo ago

The plugs should have been changed 2 years ago as part of the 6 year service.

ChrisSB

· #455 · 4 mo ago

MalcXFR said:
The plugs should have been changed 2 years ago as part of the 6 year service.

6 years or 100k miles, which ever comes first, but as the mileage is always well below, a lot of owners don't bother. Spark plugs aren't the sort of things that deteriorate with age, just usage.

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dhallworth

Discussion Starter · #456 · 4 mo ago

I asked our local specialist about doing the plugs on mine and he said that as I was well below the mileage he wouldn't bother due to the fact they don't wear with age.

I've had them on a list of things I'm going to get round to this summer as I'm now less then 20k away from the mileage they're due so we'll see how we get on.

David.

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ChrisSB

· #457 · 4 mo ago

The only caveat, is the warranty. I had mine replaced as I didn't want Jaguar pulling out the fact they weren't changed in accordance with the servicing schedule. My car had done just over 60k when they were done I think.

ninjag

· #458 · 4 mo ago

Personally, I would get them done; even if as a case of preventative maintenance. A inspection of the old ones could also help somewhat reassure that everything is nice and healthy, so extra bonus?

OzXFR

· #459 · 4 mo ago

dhallworth said:
Just had the specialist on the phone.

Warranty company have authorised the replacement of the supercharger snout. However, one of the gaskets that they require isn’t available at the moment and is being mentioned as on back order for a couple of weeks.

The supercharger is coming right out to do the snout so they’re going to do the oil in the charger and I’ve discussed replacing the coolant pipes that run under the supercharger which they’re going to do at the same time.

Does anybody know the part numbers for the 2 plastic crossover pipes that run between the cylinder heads? Are they accessible with the charger removed?

David.

I assume you are talking about the coolant Y-pipes and if so don't bother with the plastic ones instead get the metal ones I linked to in post #435.
I think the upper one (the one in plain sight) can be removed/replaced without removing the SC but the lower one definitely requires removal of the SC.

dhallworth

Discussion Starter · #460 · 4 mo ago

The shipping costs on the metal ones are being quoted at £250 making the total cost £310 for the two pipes and they're also quoting March for delivery to here which is a shame as they look nicely made.

The plastic ones are less then £60 for the pair.

Given that the plastic ones on my car have been there since 2014 and are being changed as a precaution rather then due to leaking, I'll take the chance on another set of plastic ones this time around as I can have them tomorrow morning.

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