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Will you be able to sell the old box to offset some of the cost?
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
I’m not sure if its worth anything to be honest. It’s got no drive at all but would serve a purpose if someone wanted a spare to have rebuilt.

I was meant to be towing this with my RR but thanks to the gearbox it’s at home… my folks towed the caravan here for us yesterday and we’ve got the XFR away for a break. Pulling into a campsite full of old people in quiet, sensible cars with a spires exhaust certainly raised a few eyebrows… Bring on a cold start in the morning 🤣

If the weather turns it’s getting parked inside 😁

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Cracking sunset tonight too!

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
I had a good look at the new gearbox today. I’m a bit peeved but a bit pleased at the same time.

There are brackets on the side of the gearbox that you remove before removing the box. They hold things like the wiring loom, selector cable, etc. All 6 of these bolts on the side of the new gearbox are sheered and have the bolts snapped in the holes.

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I then noticed a sticker on the box…

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It says “Attention - Clean oil cooler and connecting lines before installing gearbox”. This made me think that the Discovery that the gearbox came from has had a replacement gearbox at some point.

I then found another sticker on the side that showed the build date of the gearbox:

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It looks like this gearbox was built in December 2013 so likely wasn’t fitted until 2014. The car had only done 97k miles when it was scrapped so there’s a chance that this gearbox possibly hasn’t done that many miles.

I’ll need to spend some time carefully drilling these and trying to extract the snapped studs so that’ll take some time before I start stripping my car as I want to make sure the new box is ready before I start tearing mine to pieces.

David.
 

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That looks like a nightmare extraction job. One is bad enough but 6 & an alloy casing is going to keep you busy.

Good luck.
 

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Do you reckon they used the wrong bolts to fit the replacement box? Being an allow casing you would have thought using alloy bolts would be more appropriate.


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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
Steel bolts into an alloy casing is fairly normal unfortunately. From what a dealer was telling me recently JLR specialise in it on the aluminium cars.
 

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Steel bolts into an alloy casing is fairly normal unfortunately. From what a dealer was telling me recently JLR specialise in it on the aluminium cars.
That’s interesting as when I’ve been on the factory tours they make a point about talking galvanic corrosion and how they try to prevent it. Using alloy bolts seems the easiest first step.


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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
Agreed. Simple steps to prevent something so simple.

Apparently on newer stuff they still use steel bolts to attach the deployable side steps. They’re cutting bolts off before the cars have finished their 3 year warranties. 😳

That’s what the tech I spoke to told me anyway. Can’t say for sure if it’s true though. Would seem stupid but I’ve no reason to doubt him as he was very helpful and seemed knowledgeable.

David.
 

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It’s moments like this when you realise it’s no wonder JLR have the reputation they do.


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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
The RR is now on the ramp so we can begin replacing the gearbox.

I used the old P38 to drag it out of the field and back onto the yard.

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To give the winch on the trailer a bit of a break I had it sitting on the back of the other Range Rover sitting facing down hill on the slope at the front of the house. The trailer tilts to a 12 degree angle so when it’s facing down hill it reduces the angle of the slope. Once it was on the trailer I was able to get it into the workshop and then tilt the trailer allowing it to roll off and onto the ramp. It’s much easier doing it that was as the ramp stands proud of the floor by 3-4 inches so pushing it on by hand is impossible.

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She’s now in position where hopefully I’ll be able to get it replaced in the next couple of evenings.

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David.
 

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Well done David, nice bit of ingenuity there, handy having spare vehicles and a proper trailer, not to mention the four post in a large workshop!

Interesting tracked vehicle on the right in the second pic.
 
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I have steel bolts into aluminium on my m/c. After drilling seized ones out I use aluminium anti-seize compound, which so far has prevented seizing again.
 

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Have I ever seen an alloy bolt? (Rhetorical). Do they exist? (Actual question)
A bolt, by definition, is a tensile fastener and I don't think you could make a "bolt" out of an alloy. It would seem so obvious a solution to mixed-metal corrosion that I'm sure even Jaguar would have thought of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
The little tracked machine is a Ransomes Crawler MG2. There's a few of them in the other workshop. They made an MG2, MG5, MG6 and an MG40. We've got a 2, 5 and 6.

They were made in the 50's and designed to do 2 horse work at 1 horse speed. That one in the picture is disassembled and having the engine rebuilt at the moment. That's my Dad's project rather then mine though :) I just enjoy playing with them and finding jobs that they're totally inappropriate for when they're working :D

All of the tiny little bolts on my gearbox came undone last night so I don't know why these ones have sheered. Seems strange given the box is much newer then the one in mine too!
 

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I have steel bolts into aluminium on my m/c. After drilling seized ones out I use aluminium anti-seize compound, which so far has prevented seizing again.
Good call and one I was about to say.

There are specific 'jointing compounds' on the market to stop dissimilar metal corrosion on applications like this.

Just beware the torque values - as they can act as a lubricant while fitting the bolts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Thankfully on the Range Rover gearbox they're M6 bolts that are just used to hold the wiring looms to the gearbox so they just need nipping and not much more.

That's always a worry I have using compounds on other bolts though, especially crucial ones that need specific torque values.
 
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Thankfully on the Range Rover gearbox they're M6 bolts that are just used to hold the wiring looms to the gearbox so they just need nipping and not much more.

That's always a worry I have using compounds on other bolts though, especially crucial ones that need specific torque values.
Just use a thread-lock. Separates the metal but keeps the bolt/set-pin tight.

(Nerd fact: One I remember from day #1 of my apprenticeship. A "bolt" that is threaded right up to the head isn't a "bolt", it's a "set-pin". A bolt has only a proportion (I don't remember what proportion) of the shank threaded.) :geek:
 
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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
I usually give them a smear of grease before refitting them on things that don't need thread lock.
 

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The little tracked machine is a Ransomes Crawler MG2. There's a few of them in the other workshop. They made an MG2, MG5, MG6 and an MG40. We've got a 2, 5 and 6.

They were made in the 50's and designed to do 2 horse work at 1 horse speed. That one in the picture is disassembled and having the engine rebuilt at the moment. That's my Dad's project rather then mine though :) I just enjoy playing with them and finding jobs that they're totally inappropriate for when they're working :D

All of the tiny little bolts on my gearbox came undone last night so I don't know why these ones have sheered. Seems strange given the box is much newer then the one in mine too!
I can so appreciate/understand that!!.. :D
 
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David - have you managed to get the sheared bolts out of your replacement 'box?
 
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