I looked into getting one for my sons car, but found for the amount of time I might need it quite expensive
My 2007 Range Rover Supercharged Project
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They are very expensive but they are excellent.
We’ve got an oxy-acetylene rig in the workshop that we used to use on stuck bolts, etc. but it was never much fun using a naked flame around things under the car. The induction heater is excellent as it’s an extremely focussed heat and there’s no naked flames near anything to cause a fire.
We’ve got an oxy-acetylene rig in the workshop that we used to use on stuck bolts, etc. but it was never much fun using a naked flame around things under the car. The induction heater is excellent as it’s an extremely focussed heat and there’s no naked flames near anything to cause a fire.
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One other issue I’ve had but haven’t mentioned as I’ve got used to it is the car not starting when you crank it first time on the key. It’ll turn and splutter but not actually fire. If you stop it, cycle the ignition and flick the key again it’ll start first time.
If you put the ignition on, then off again, then on again and crank it then it’ll always start first time without any problems.
Tonight I decided I’d have a look at that on the IID tool too.
This is the fuel pressure that was showing with the ignition on the first time was 4.10kPa which is 0.6psi.
![Font Electric blue Number Darkness Sky]()
I then turned it to graph mode and cycled the ignition and you can instantly see the pressure shoot up to where it should be.
![Slope Rectangle Parallel Font Pattern]()
Interestingly it continues to drop off rather than maintaining a constant pressure. You can clearly see when the ignition was cycled on the graphs.
![Rectangle Slope Parallel Font Pattern]()
Once the car is started the pressure is consistently within the pressures outlined in the workshop manual.
![Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Technology]()
I’ve been looking in the workshop manual and the non return valve on this car is part of the fuel pump assembly in the tank. I was going to order a replacement but I had a think about it. There is a solenoid valve that was part of the LPG system. This engine doesn’t have a fuel return line, it’s all controlled from the pressure regulator on the pump assembly in the tank so there’s a T put into the fuel line that runs through a 12v solenoid.
When the car switched to LPG the solenoid opened and kept the fuel pressure at a constant 45PSI. I’m wondering if this solenoid has become a bit leaky and is allowing fuel to pass. I’ll remove the pipe from the outlet tomorrow and check that, if it’s holding pressure properly then it looks like I’m going to need a fuel pump.
David.
If you put the ignition on, then off again, then on again and crank it then it’ll always start first time without any problems.
Tonight I decided I’d have a look at that on the IID tool too.
This is the fuel pressure that was showing with the ignition on the first time was 4.10kPa which is 0.6psi.
I then turned it to graph mode and cycled the ignition and you can instantly see the pressure shoot up to where it should be.
Interestingly it continues to drop off rather than maintaining a constant pressure. You can clearly see when the ignition was cycled on the graphs.
Once the car is started the pressure is consistently within the pressures outlined in the workshop manual.
I’ve been looking in the workshop manual and the non return valve on this car is part of the fuel pump assembly in the tank. I was going to order a replacement but I had a think about it. There is a solenoid valve that was part of the LPG system. This engine doesn’t have a fuel return line, it’s all controlled from the pressure regulator on the pump assembly in the tank so there’s a T put into the fuel line that runs through a 12v solenoid.
When the car switched to LPG the solenoid opened and kept the fuel pressure at a constant 45PSI. I’m wondering if this solenoid has become a bit leaky and is allowing fuel to pass. I’ll remove the pipe from the outlet tomorrow and check that, if it’s holding pressure properly then it looks like I’m going to need a fuel pump.
David.
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The seats? 😂
The driver
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Part of me wonders if he might be the problem. 😂
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I had a look at this very briefly this afternoon.
With a screwdriver to open the flap on the fuel filler, the fuel return that was plumbed in for the LPG is easily visible.
I watched the fuel return as my Dad cycled the ignition. As soon as the ignition came on there was a small spurt of petrol and some bubbles appear. After the car was started there was a small (very small) but constant trickle of fuel out of it.
Obviously the fuel return solenoid that was part of the LPG is allowing fuel to pass. Tomorrow’s job is to remove it and block it totally before refitting. Unfortunately, removing it completely would mean replacing the pipe from the tank to the front or at least part of it.
I’m thinking I might turn a small piece of metal in the lathe and press it into the solenoid feed to totally block it.
The LPG on this car has been a total pain in the backside! :lol:
David.
With a screwdriver to open the flap on the fuel filler, the fuel return that was plumbed in for the LPG is easily visible.
I watched the fuel return as my Dad cycled the ignition. As soon as the ignition came on there was a small spurt of petrol and some bubbles appear. After the car was started there was a small (very small) but constant trickle of fuel out of it.
Obviously the fuel return solenoid that was part of the LPG is allowing fuel to pass. Tomorrow’s job is to remove it and block it totally before refitting. Unfortunately, removing it completely would mean replacing the pipe from the tank to the front or at least part of it.
I’m thinking I might turn a small piece of metal in the lathe and press it into the solenoid feed to totally block it.
The LPG on this car has been a total pain in the backside! :lol:
David.
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I’ll need to have a think. Removing it completely would leave a bunged pipe exposed to 5 bar of pressure when at wide open throttle.
Blocking the metal body of the solenoid should be easier then just blocking the pipe and reconnecting it at a guess.
Removing the pipe completely and replacing it would be a big job unfortunately and would mean much dismantling and probably dropping the fuel tank.
Blocking the metal body of the solenoid should be easier then just blocking the pipe and reconnecting it at a guess.
Removing the pipe completely and replacing it would be a big job unfortunately and would mean much dismantling and probably dropping the fuel tank.
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So you'll probably be doing the latter then
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Not just now I won’t.
If I have to drop the rear frame again or drop the tank for any reason then I’ll likely do it then. In the meantime, I’m definitely not replacing that pipe.
If I have to drop the rear frame again or drop the tank for any reason then I’ll likely do it then. In the meantime, I’m definitely not replacing that pipe.
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We had friends visit today so I didn’t get out to the workshop until gone 5.
I removed the rear wheel and had the arch liner off in 10 mins and then proceeded to remove the solenoid from the Petrol return. Pictures taken with the electronic part of the solenoid removed.
![Cannon Wood Gas Sledgehammer Flooring]()
![Wood Cannon Sculpture Sledgehammer Gas]()
For quickness and to test my theory of this being the cause of my problems I’ve blocked both ends of the solenoid with chemical metal and have used a bolt that’s a very tight fit in the pipe on both sides as well.
![Hand Automotive tire Wood Finger Thumb]()
![Hand Wood Finger Art Thumb]()
I’m just giving the chemical metal some time to cure properly before reassembling this evening.
Once it’s reassembled I’ll have a look with the IID tool and see what the fuel pressure looks like. If it’s stable and this has cured the problem I’ll wait until the summer comes and the temperatures have improved and I’ll look to drop the covers and remove the tee from the pipe under the car or even replace the pipe that was cut.
I’ve gone to so much effort to remove the LPG, I might as well make sure there’s no signs it was ever there.
David.
I removed the rear wheel and had the arch liner off in 10 mins and then proceeded to remove the solenoid from the Petrol return. Pictures taken with the electronic part of the solenoid removed.
For quickness and to test my theory of this being the cause of my problems I’ve blocked both ends of the solenoid with chemical metal and have used a bolt that’s a very tight fit in the pipe on both sides as well.
I’m just giving the chemical metal some time to cure properly before reassembling this evening.
Once it’s reassembled I’ll have a look with the IID tool and see what the fuel pressure looks like. If it’s stable and this has cured the problem I’ll wait until the summer comes and the temperatures have improved and I’ll look to drop the covers and remove the tee from the pipe under the car or even replace the pipe that was cut.
I’ve gone to so much effort to remove the LPG, I might as well make sure there’s no signs it was ever there.
David.
I knew it would bug you if it was left in place! 🤣
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It’s not even that, just the fact I’ve had to bodge it.
I’m going to Dundee for work tomorrow afternoon for 3 days and taking 3 colleagues with me so want this car. Just not had time to do it to a standard I’d be happy to leave.
I’m going to Dundee for work tomorrow afternoon for 3 days and taking 3 colleagues with me so want this car. Just not had time to do it to a standard I’d be happy to leave.
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2,315 Posts
Car sat overnight and this morning fired into life instantly at the flick of the key. Looks like that has indeed been the cure and not the non return valve on the fuel pump.
Car felt like it was driving beautifully on the way home from getting the alignment checked this morning too.
Really hoping I’ve broken the back of the constant niggles now.
David.
Car felt like it was driving beautifully on the way home from getting the alignment checked this morning too.
Really hoping I’ve broken the back of the constant niggles now.
David.
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