[Rigger]

Really liking this thread.

You're nearly up there with Jordan for the pic

Jesting aside - looking forward to the updates.

hope it all comes good.

 

[Rigger]

Time for an update

Well, the Range Rover has done about 5-600 miles since passing the MOT.

The heater problem was solved with a new heater valve. The heater matrix on these is in 2 halves for the dual zone heating and as a result there’s a valve in the engine bay that diverts coolant to and from. Replacing that cured the heater being stuck on full on the drivers side. Genuine these valves are around £200 but the after market ones seem to be a great quality according to the forum and are only £44 thankfully.

The wheel bearing is now sitting in the boot, I just need time to get that fitted. A genuine bearing, hub nut and circlip was just under £60 which isn’t bad at all and should hopefully not be too bad to fit. Although I’ve read that some people have problems getting the driveshaft out of the hub and needing a press to do it.

The wife has decided that she likes driving it which is irritating as now I have to look at my car from strange angles at times

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After I’d done 300 miles on Petrol to let the gearbox learn it’s adaptions properly I thought I’d try the LPG system out. It ran perfectly on LPG, however, if you parked it up and started it instantly it would start ok, if you left it for a few minutes or longer it wouldn’t restart without a lot of cranking.

I did a bit of digging at the weekend and when I pulled a vacuum pipe off I could hear a hissing noise with the car switched off. I stuck the vacuum tube into a beaker of water and got bubbles so it was pressurised. When smelling the end of the vacuum pipe it was obvious that it was LPG leaking.

As the LPG was leaking into the vacuum tubing it was entering the inlet manifold. As LPG is heavier then air it was sinking into the inlet and as the LPG is harder to ignite then the air & petrol it was exhibiting itself by taking a lot of cranking to start the car.

The cause of the leak is a diaphragm that has perished in one of the LPG reducers. Normally, I’d not fit LPG to a car as for the mileage I do the cost saving isn’t worth it, however, seeing as to replace both of the reducers will cost £200 and LPG is 52p a litre rather then 120p a litre, it won’t take long to recoup £200 so they’ve both been ordered and should be here this week. Thankfully, driving it on petrol stops the leak so until it’s fixed it can still be used which is good!

There’s a scuff on the NSR door and a couple of bubbles on the tailgate that I want sorting out so I visited the local body work guy yesterday. He’s quoted £250 to do both bits so it’ll be going to him before long.

Other then that, the car is running great, driving spot on and hasn’t thrown up anything that I hadn’t found whilst tinkering with it other then the wheel bearing which I can live with.

After I’d found the LPG leak on Saturday I decided to give it and the XFR a wash. I really like looking at them together, they make a cracking pair and complement each other nicely

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David.

You're a lucky fella to have that pair on the driveway.

Not envious at all, Nope, never, nadda, nothing.

 

[Rigger]

I have steel bolts into aluminium on my m/c. After drilling seized ones out I use aluminium anti-seize compound, which so far has prevented seizing again.

Good call and one I was about to say.

There are specific 'jointing compounds' on the market to stop dissimilar metal corrosion on applications like this.

Just beware the torque values - as they can act as a lubricant while fitting the bolts.

 

[Rigger]

The postman delivered the new centre caps today so I managed to get the car looking finished.

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Hopefully the new Air Springs will arrive tomorrow so that I can get it finished and back on the road again. Then the only outstanding job I’ve got left to do is fit the deployable side steps that I’ve got sitting here. Well, for now… it is a Range Rover I guess. 🙈

Anyway, here’s a before and after picture. The top picture is how it arrived in January with chrome bits everywhere… the bottom picture is how she sits today. Completely returned to standard using all genuine parts. It’s been a mission and has cost a fortune but I’m glad I’ve done it as it really does look like a different car. I’m chuffed to bits with it if I’m honest.

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David.

Cracking job Dave - looks the mutts nuts!

 

[Rigger]

What about fuel flow? Fuel pump?

On demand it seems fine, but when at idle it starts misfiring as you say.

 

[Rigger]

Absolutely.
I’ve just finished 4 days reorganising the garage after putting the GT back together.
I’m not done yet but it’s much more pleasant to have a clear bench.

Looks top banana that Steve.

I'm getting another load of pellets Mon or Tuesday, so you can pick them up to make more shelving (or garden furniture) at your leisure.

 

[Rigger]

Well, there's almost as many bits of Range Rover strewn about the place as there are tools this evening.

I didn't have a 36mm 12 point socket in 1/2" drive and I couldn't find the 1/2 - 34" adapter so I could use my 3/4" socket in the impact gun so I ended up removing the hubs and shafts from both sides as one complete assembly. During these works I'm replacing both diffs, the intermediate bearing on the long driveshaft along with the oil seal, and all 4 wheel bearings as I'm sick of chasing whines so this is sort of the nuclear option I guess... Socket has been ordered this evening so will hopefully see that tomorrow and we can crack on.

Despite this being a 14 year old car, everything has come apart, there's been no sheared bolts, no rounded heads and nothing seized. Not even the 10mm bolts holding the back plate onto the hub or the tiny bolts holding the height sensors to the control arms!

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Whilst everything is off I'm going to try to clean up the subframe, apply some rust prevention treatment and then give it a lick of paint. It's only surface rust at the moment but I might as well try and stop it getting any worse. It's actually quite clean under there for a 14 year old car.

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Once I've finished work on the drivetrain (which will include a trip to Birmingham to have my rear differential refurbished (by the same company that refurbish them for Land Rover none the less) I'm going to get the deployable side steps installed finally too.

The Brembo calipers are a bit scruffy looking so am thinking of trying to tidy them up a bit whilst I'm in there. This thing is turning into a labour of love but we're getting there!

David.

Just a small Sunday job, eh David?

It's a good read, and I don't envy you the workload you've taken on, so hat off to you Sir.

 

[Rigger]

I laugh at your post about the hyd press breaking - only because I've been in a similar position.

Job nice and easy with the right tools - job a complete Bar Steward when the right tools break!!

Cracking thread - keep it up!!

 

[Rigger]

Today saw the remaining few bits being stripped off the subframe including the diff.

I forgot I hadn’t drained the oil from the diff when I removed it so I got the mini digger and picked the whole subframe assembly up so I could reach underneath it.

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After that was done, I sat it on top of the toolbox and removed the bolts holding the differential to the subframe and lifted the subframe up again leaving the differential behind.

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The company doing the rebuild didn’t want the locking motor so that was removed from the diff and it was all put on a pallet ready to go. They’re also rebuilding a P38 steering box for us and are taking a transfer box I have with knackered bearings as a spare unit they can remanufacture too.

View attachment 191319

I then stripped the remaining 2 hub assemblies down in preparation for doing the bearings. There was a lump of hard stuff on the CV gator that came off when picked at and revealed a hole in the CV gator. Some sod has done a bodge rather then a proper repair 😡

View attachment 191320

Anyway, hopefully the pallet will be collected tomorrow or Tuesday and I can crack on with the small jobs whilst the diff is away.

Subframe and wishbones are going for blasting and powder coating this week too.

David.

Easy enough to change the gaitor, or do you have to strip the shaft down anymore?

 

[Rigger]

I’m not entirely sure to be honest. Not as much as it used to be with the leaky seals in the ram!

We worked it out based on the pump running it being rated to 10,000PSI and with the diameter of the ram (can’t remember that figure) that the press should be in the region of 40 tons.

We nearly replaced it a few weeks ago, we narrowed it down to a 30 ton Sykes Pickavant unit or a 75 ton unit that we’d seen on eBay. The Sykes one was out of stock everywhere and Sykes reckoned end of April before they were expecting stock. The 75 ton unit was used and was on eBay in London but the carriage quotes we were getting were horrendous.

In the end I bought the replacement pump for the one we’ve got which in turn caused the seals on the ram to start passing at higher pressures.

Not sure what pressure it takes to do jobs as there’s no gauge on this one - it’s older then me

David.

Could you not just replace the jack as a unit, rather than the whole press?

Should be substantially cheaper. Failing that, there might be a replacement seal kit available, if you're able to break the ram down, and separate the end cap and piston from the rod.

 

[Rigger]

Have you gotten a price for spray welding and machining back to original dimensions?

Must be someone in the Strathclyde/greater Glasgow area that can do this, and do it well.

 

[Rigger]

Pleased to report the drill fits nicely down the side of the engine.

No chance of being able to use a normal drill bit as it’s too long. I cut a 5mm drill bit I had and it fits perfectly so the principle is proven. The air drill seems to work well too.

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Unfortunately, it seems to be a hardened bolt so it’s going to take a LOT of drilling.

I’m going to see if I can order any carbide stubby drill bits and see if they’ll be any better.

David.

Cobalt drills an option?

Edit. Note to self - read rest of thread before commenting

 

[Rigger]

Great work Dave - done well fella!!

 

[Rigger]

Nice one Dave - you've put a lot of work into that wee beast.

Fingers crossed for a healthy MOT pass!!!

 

[Rigger]

Since changing the MAF, both oxygen sensors, sorting the vacuum leak and the fuel return issue, we're now 1000 miles in.

Car still starting instantly at the flick of a key so fuel return was definitely the issue, not the fuel pump as I first thought.

Engine management light has stayed off and fuel trims are showing nice and equal on diagnostics. Car is still driving nicely too

So, since the engine rebuild, that's now 3000 miles on the clock, or, 10 x 100l tanks of petrol, and a ton of Shell Drivers Club points 🤣

Good job I didn't buy it thinking it'd be cheap to run!

David.

Happy days David. Always rewarding to get to the bottom of things and get them sorted yourself!

Happy motoring - and parenting