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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
  1. Wind the window down about 7 inches so you can get to the window clips one they are exposed at step 7
  2. Remove the 4 torx covers from the trim panel and remove the torx screws.
  3. Pull door trim out from the bottom, then around the sides and finally lift upwards and then when the trim is off the door carefully disconnect the electrical connectors and the release cable attached to the door handle
  4. The trim should now be free of the door.




  1. Remove the electrical connectors and the 8 torx screws from the panel below and remove the panel

  1. Remove the torx screw that holds the outer window trim in place then lever the torx end out and up lever up as you work toward the mirror and then pull away from the mirror.

  1. The window is held in by 2 plastic clips that have a lug that goes through a hole in the window. The back of the clips, behind the window need to be levered out carefully so they don’t break and the glass can be pushed up a couple of inches from the bottom until the glass is sitting on top of the lugs of both clips.
  2. You can then remove the glass from the door



  1. Undo the 2 torx screws holding the regulator bar nearest the lock (The top will have a sticky pad over the access hole. Then move the regulator bar over into the middle of the door.
  2. Remove the rubber cover from the end of the door and shine a light in so you can see the torx screw. It is slightly up and left, undo the torx screw about 6 full turns (Don’t fully undo it) (Make sure your torx screwdiver is long enough as I was using torx bits and the holder would fit through the hole and the other torx set I had wasn’t long enough)
  3. The lock will now wiggle out and then you will be able to release the handle, but if you have keyless entry there will be the cabling going from the handle to the module

  1. At this point I released the handle and moved the cable out of the retaining lug on the handle as it gives and extra few millimetres of cable.
  2. The instructions show the connector being levered out of the door handle hole, but I couldn’t manage this and left the door handle hanging.




  1. I undid the torx screw at the door handle and pushed the door handle cable inside the door so there was as much free cable inside the door as possible.

  1. I undid the 3 torx screws and then started to ease the lock mechanism towards the centre of the door.

16. I was able to remove the 3 electrical connectors to the door lock and I put a screwdriver through an access hole at the top of the door and levered the underneath of the keyless entry connector (Picture below) and prised the purple connector out and removed the door handle


  1. I was now able to remove the lock completely
  2. There is a couple of white clips holding the 2 cables to the mechanism, a flathead screwdriver at the sides prises the retainers out and they lift upwards
  3. Drill the rivet out with a 6mm drill and then unclip the upper mechanism from the door lock and move the 2 metal cables around 90 degrees to remove from their retainers.

  1. Fix the upper mechanism to the new lock mechanism and either re-rivet or use a nut and bolt like I had to. Some people have also used tie-wraps.

Now it’s pretty much the reverse to put everything back. Make sure the window “snaps” into the clips. Make sure all connectors are connected and all wires are connected and correctly routed.
The whole job took just under 3 hours as I was extra cautious and had to keep getting tools from the garage. If I have to do the other door lock then it would probably take just over an hour.
 

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What a fantastic write up!!

Thank you for taking the time and making the effort for the good of the collective!!


Top Man!!! :cool:
 

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Great instructions, replaced my driver's door latch today after it started failing to unlock when pulling the handle. It was also doing the double beep on occasion while locking it.

One thing I did notice was the wiring connecting the handle to the door loom (picture 8 above) had been damaged where they clip into the handle, and bare wires were showing. Possibly part of the locking issue?? Managed to wrap them in electrical tape and I'm happy to report the car is back to locking/unlocking correctly.
 

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Funny you mention this. My XKR wouldn't respond to a lock command from the driver's door handle button, traced to a severed white cable in that loom necessitating a replacement door handle. Glad you found the instruction on the forum of use.
 

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Yes. Mind you get the correct mechanism, if you have keyless entry you need the passive mechanism, it has an additional motor at the top of it.
 
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The passive entry are also 14 pin (1 x 10pin and 1 x 4 pin sockets), as against the non passive which are 10 pin. Phil
 
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Yes, to access the retaining clips, I believe. Been a while since I did the job. Once you start, it all becomes quite obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I said in the original write up that I could do this again in an hour after replacing the first lock, but after the drivers side lock failed recently, I followed my own guide and it still took me 3 hours.

I was locking the car and the mirrors didn't fold and it then did 2 beeps. I wasn't sure what was causing it at first and suspected broken wires in the boot loom, but after attempting to lock and looking down at the lock button beside the handles, it was clear that the drivers door locking button was still sticking out and the other in the car were all in. When pushing the lock button in from inside the car it felt rough and a little hard to press compared to the passenger side.

I ordered a cheapy lock from a UK seller on ebay as the originals are about £150 now and this was £50, when it arrived all the writing was in chinese. The lock takes an additional pull to open when using keyless so I probably should have paid the extra and got the OEM part as the old lock unlocked the whole car and opened the door in one go.

Things to note that I didn't add originally are the Torx screwdrivers you need are 20, 25 and 27, you probably don't need to wind the window down to get at the clips, but I still did as it puts the clips in the centre of the door making them a little more accessible. Also if you haven't changed the foam on the 2 wires in the door, then it's a good time to do it, half of my foam had fallen off into the bottom of the door.
 
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