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Jaguar XF 2011 Turbo actuator?

10K views 209 replies 11 participants last post by  sandmaennle 
#1 ·
Hallo guys, this is my first message, and I will do a little presentation.
I am Sergio, I am an Spanish guy and I live in Austria currently. I bought my Jag XF 3.0d 275cv last year, and when it works perfectly is the best car that I have had, but, that only happen two times haha.

Ok, lets go!

My car, has some problems like, when you accelerate it, appear the Restricted Performance, and when it does not appear, you can not accelerate fast until 2800 rpm,.When you are stopped in a traffic light, the car is going up and down with the rpm by itself, also when you use the Reverse, but if you are in N, disappear, and when you have activated the RP, that never happen, so I guess the problem is with the left turbo. I have changed the MAF sensor, but I did not feel any changes. When I use a diagnose tool, apear this:

P1247-00 Turbocharger boost preassure low
P004d-77 Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid B - circuit high

In this case, I have another solenoid from a friend, and I have tried it (7.02428.00 Pierburg) , now my car in N has no the problem with the rpm, but sometimes in Reverse.
The car is not better, so now I have different codes:

P0235-94 Circuit of sensor A from turbo
P1247-00 Turbocharger boost preassure low
P00BD-07 Mass or volume air flow A circuit range/performance - air flow too high

I was looking the vacuum line, and al the hoses, are visually fine, so now I will try to change the another solenoid (7.22687.27 Pierburg) and I do not really know what to do.
Sometimes as 1 of 20, the car works perfect, although the turbos are not syncronized, you can feel all the power of this engine, so I am sure is not a problem with the turbo, but I think is a solenoid, hose or actuator.

What do you think guys?
Thank you in advance. (I hope my English is fine)
 
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#2 ·
Hola Sergio. Welcome to the forum.
From your description I would suggest it's the secondary turbo valve actuator. A very common issue and easily replaced. This is the culprit. It gets sticky through lack of use as the secondary turbo doesn't kick in until around 2800 rpm.

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#13 ·
Always worth checking in the "How-To" guide
 
#14 ·
Hi again! I actualizate the post, but with bad news.

I have changed the actuator, and did everything perfect, I have checked three times that all is well mounted.
Now, I have the RP even when you accelerate it in N.
I have this errors;
P0235-94
P0235-17
P00BD-07
P006A-00
P2458-66

All of them with the circuit A and the DPF.

Do you know something? :cry::cry:
 
#15 ·
Bad news :( but maybe easy to fix. Hopefully some of the guys with more knowledge of the pre-facelift model will answer during Sunday.
My first suggestions:
  • check the related fuses for this circuits
  • re-check for proper connection of the electric plugs AND the vacuum hoses
  • check the proper connection of the vacuum hose at the motor air filter box
  • did you perform a re-calibration of the air path? It's a SDD service function.

Dirk
 
#17 ·
Bad news :( but maybe easy to fix. Hopefully some of the guys with more knowledge of the pre-facelift model will answer during Sunday. My first suggestions:
  • check the related fuses for this circuits
  • re-check for proper connection of the electric plugs AND the vacuum hoses
  • check the proper connection of the vacuum hose at the motor air filter box
  • did you perform a re-calibration of the air path? It's a SDD service function.
Dirk
Good morning! I did everything except the last step, what does it mean SDD?
 
#16 ·
Bad news :( but maybe easy to fix. Hopefully some of the guys with more knowledge of the pre-facelift model will answer during Sunday.
My first suggestions:
  • check the related fuses for this circuits
  • re-check for proper connection of the electric plugs AND the vacuum hoses
  • check the proper connection of the vacuum hose at the motor air filter box
  • did you perform a re-calibration of the air path? It's a SDD service function.

Dirk
Good morning!

I have done everything except the last step. What does it mean SDD?

Trank you!
 
#18 ·
Sorry, I thought you are already working with the Jaguar Syptom Driven Diagnostic. You are using Autel? Maybe this tool has this function, too. The Name should be similar to Calibrating air path. But I would guess, this is not the solution for your problem. Your new issues ATE some hardware related .
Did you clear all faults and they returned?

Cheers
Dirk
 
#20 ·
Ok. ICarsoft does not have this function. It will be a bit tricky to analyze the root cause with this tool, but it should work.
Next step, from my point of view, what values are out of specification or does not meet the target value. Did you unplug the MAF sensors?
Maybe plugged in wrong? Just guessing.
If the DTCs are popping up while the car is running on the first turbo (LH side), I would check the MAF readings for the first turbo. Also check the readings for the MAP sensor.
SDD provides values like desired throttle position turbo shut up valve and calculated values for the desired boost pressure.
In such cases I performed a test drive while recording all affected/interesting values.
I believe you checked already the air path and the function of the valve you just exchanged.

Cheers
Dirk
 
#21 ·
I did not unplugg the MAF sensors, I did not needed.
The MAF sensor in the bottom is new, but I have the same problems as before.
I can see sometimes smoke in the bonnet, so I think could be a problem with the manifolds, but I do not really know.
About using diagnosis, I just knowhow to read and clean errors, so I need to learn more.

Vielen dank!
 
#24 ·
@OBC John
Are cracked manifolds an issue among the pre-facelift? Maybe EGR?

Dirk
Fortunately, I have avoided the dreaded issue but yes, all models with the 240/275 hp V6 diesel are subject to it (AFAIK).
A clogged or sticky EGR valve will result in a caked-up throttle body which will have knock-on effects with performance and consequently the DPF. Always a contentious issue but in my opinion, the result of using cheap, supermarket diesel and the reason I only ever use Shell V-Power or on occasion, Shell 'normal' diesel with Archoil additive to keep things clean.
 
#25 ·
Thanks John!

It is not very easy to remove the EGR. It is horrible to remove it....
But please first check for cracked manifolds. I posted a few pictures some days ago:
Cracked manifold
I had this two times.
John mentioned that the EGRs might be clogged. This might be the case. I had cracked manifold without clogged EGRs.
So first try to find out where this smoke come from. In my case it was oily air coming from the cracked manifold.
If it is only exhaust, it might come from leaking EGR tubes.

Do you have a workshop manual for your Jaguar?

The MAF sensor at the bottom is the MAF for the first turbo. It is a VTG and does all the daily drives with normal acceleration. The second
turbo (+ first MAF on top) kicks in around 2800 rpm for the extra power.

So your headlights don't look like this? :)
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Dirk
 
#26 ·
I will check manifolds and about the smoke is really difficult to know where it comes from because is something random, you never know when it is going to happen.
I have the manual for the restyling, and I will check how to remove for cleaning the egr, I did not find any video.

An yes,my car has no those headlights. It is the same in your avatar.

Thank you!
 
#27 ·
OK. Facelift model :)
Just sent you a PM.

I wouldn't start with the removal of the EGR. Maybe you can remove only a pipe to have a look into the EGR. Before checking the EGR I would really recommend checking for cracks in the manifold. My DTCs with cracked manifolds were similar to yours. I changed both MAFs and finally it was a crack in the manifold.
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Cheers
Dirk
 
#30 ·
Long weekend? Does Austria have this day "Christi Himmelfahrt" on Thursday too? :)

I paid around 330 each side incl tax and shipment from an official Jag spare part dealer in Germany (Jaguar Hermann). If you need new manifolds don't buy chinese spare parts. They are half the price, but, like in my case, you do the job twice. And it takes around 11h to do both sides. Maybe 16h if you do it on your own.
But the cracks are easy to find. The leaking air is oily. So you will find the leakage :cool:

Dirk
 
#31 ·
Long weekend? Does Austria have this day "Christi Himmelfahrt" on Thursday too? :)

I paid around 330 each side incl tax and shipment from an official Jag spare part dealer in Germany (Jaguar Hermann). If you need new manifolds don't buy chinese spare parts. They are half the price, but, like in my case, you do the job twice. And it takes around 11h to do both sides. Maybe 16h if you do it on your own.
But the cracks are easy to find. The leaking air is oily. So you will find the leakage :cool:

Dirk
Really here is festive on Thursday, but on Friday probably my company will close.

Do you have the references of the manifolds? I want to write to my closer dealer, but just for know the prices.

11 hours scare me wtf, we will see.

Thank you!
 
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