Jaguar XF 2011 Turbo actuator?

2563 Views 144 Replies 9 Participants Last post by SpanishinAustria, 10 h ago

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · 23 d ago

Hallo guys, this is my first message, and I will do a little presentation.
I am Sergio, I am an Spanish guy and I live in Austria currently. I bought my Jag XF 3.0d 275cv last year, and when it works perfectly is the best car that I have had, but, that only happen two times haha.

Ok, lets go!

My car, has some problems like, when you accelerate it, appear the Restricted Performance, and when it does not appear, you can not accelerate fast until 2800 rpm,.When you are stopped in a traffic light, the car is going up and down with the rpm by itself, also when you use the Reverse, but if you are in N, disappear, and when you have activated the RP, that never happen, so I guess the problem is with the left turbo. I have changed the MAF sensor, but I did not feel any changes. When I use a diagnose tool, apear this:

P1247-00 Turbocharger boost preassure low
P004d-77 Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid B - circuit high

In this case, I have another solenoid from a friend, and I have tried it (7.02428.00 Pierburg) , now my car in N has no the problem with the rpm, but sometimes in Reverse.
The car is not better, so now I have different codes:

P0235-94 Circuit of sensor A from turbo
P1247-00 Turbocharger boost preassure low
P00BD-07 Mass or volume air flow A circuit range/performance - air flow too high

I was looking the vacuum line, and al the hoses, are visually fine, so now I will try to change the another solenoid (7.22687.27 Pierburg) and I do not really know what to do.
Sometimes as 1 of 20, the car works perfect, although the turbos are not syncronized, you can feel all the power of this engine, so I am sure is not a problem with the turbo, but I think is a solenoid, hose or actuator.

What do you think guys?
Thank you in advance. (I hope my English is fine)

121 - 140 of 145 Posts

hamedhbb

· #121 · 5 d ago

SpanishinAustria said:
I will try to figure out how are the hoses. I will update in the next few days.

Thank you all guys!

It should be an obvious boost leak because you can hear it even in idle. It correlates with having RP even at idle. Most RP issues discussed are hairline cracks that are masked at idle.
check these:
1-The intake to primary turbo does not have a clamp. It’s held in place by a leg that is bolted to engine block. When working on the ducts you break it’s leg if will come off.
2-Also there is is hose from turbo bypass valve to primary turbo inlet.
3- there is hose between the primary inlet to the oil separator next to oil filter.

Reactions: 1

sandmaennle

· #122 · 5 d ago

And don't forget the intercooler. If you have a cracked intercooler, most likely the plastic intake , the whistling should come from the left front under the bonnet.
I had this fault too 😀

Dirk

Reactions: 1

hamedhbb

· #123 · 5 d ago

Yes. I think intercooler is front right and in the video sounds like the noise come from left. Cracked intake manifold is normally doesn’t show up at idle because there is not much boost. That’s why I didn’t suggest these to check first.

sandmaennle

· #124 · 5 d ago

You are right Hamed. I suggest it is not the intercooler. Based on the video and its direction of the noise, I would suggest it will be something next to turbo 1 EGR.

Dirk

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #125 · 4 d ago

hamedhbb said:
It should be an obvious boost leak because you can hear it even in idle. It correlates with having RP even at idle. Most RP issues discussed are hairline cracks that are masked at idle.
check these:
1-The intake to primary turbo does not have a clamp. It’s held in place by a leg that is bolted to engine block. When working on the ducts you break it’s leg if will come off.
2-Also there is is hose from turbo bypass valve to primary turbo inlet.
3- there is hose between the primary inlet to the oil separator next to oil filter.

Point 1:
I have unscrewed this bolt, and now I can not screw it because it is not the same position of the hose now 🥲
What can I do?

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #126 · 4 d ago (Edited)

Hello, I will update with this video. That sounds like a broken turbo, but when “sometimes” the car works fine, this sound does not exist. What is that?

Today appear
P2463-00 diesel particulate filter restriction

sandmaennle

· #127 · 4 d ago

Sounds more like a normal shut off from turbo 1 due to clogged DPF. Cracked turbo sounds different.

Dirk

hamedhbb

· #128 · 4 d ago

SpanishinAustria said:
Point 1:
I have unscrewed this bolt, and now I can not screw it because it is not the same position of the hose now 🥲
What can I do?

Without that bolt it won’t seal. If the holes doesn’t it’s not installed correctly. After removing the air filter you should be able to access with an extension. Working on this engine is different. I use telescopic mirrors sometimes.

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #129 · 4 d ago

sandmaennle said:
Sounds more like a normal shut off from turbo 1 due to clogged DPF. Cracked turbo sounds different.

Dirk

I can not regenerate the DPF with this errors 😅but at least is not something bad.

hamedhbb said:
Without that bolt it won’t seal. If the holes doesn’t it’s not installed correctly. After removing the air filter you should be able to access with an extension. Working on this engine is different. I use telescopic mirrors sometimes.

I will try with some help today, I will stay under the car an another guy in the bonnet!

hamedhbb

· #130 · 3 d ago

If you have SDD you can regenerate DPF even at RP. You might be able to with iCarsoft. Not sure. Be careful because if you past a certain level of soot you might not be able to regenerate on the car and have to use other methods.

sandmaennle

· #131 · 3 d ago

My dear Sergio

How many kilometers did you drive with this "injured cat" ? Maybe a few too much. SDD is still not working, or?
iCarSoft has this DPF regeneration routine. I hope it carries out this routine even with DPF fault codes active.
But if you are driving this car with this fault active, it is getting worse. Like Hamed said. If your DPF soot level is too high, you won't be able to regenerate the DPF. You will have to remove it and have it cleaned by a special company.
Maybe the red DPF lamp is active because of you air leak. Maybe the differential pressure is too high because of the air leak and not because of the high soot level. I really hope it is not a full DPF.

Dirk

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #132 · 3 d ago

sandmaennle said:
My dear Sergio
How many kilometers did you drive with this "injured cat" ? Maybe a few too much. SDD is still not working, or?
iCarSoft has this DPF regeneration routine. I hope it carries out this routine even with DPF fault codes active.
But if you are driving this car with this fault active, it is getting worse. Like Hamed said. If your DPF soot level is too high, you won't be able to regenerate the DPF. You will have to remove it and have it cleaned by a special company.
Maybe the red DPF lamp is active because of you air leak. Maybe the differential pressure is too high because of the air leak and not because of the high soot level. I really hope it is not a full DPF.

Dirk

Not too much. I have around 5km to my job. And I clean the dpf when the car was working one month ago.
Today I have fixed what I said to Hamed. Now I am waiting for two new MAF sensor, because I do not see any leak ...
I try with Icarsoft to do a regeneration but I have always an error. Sometimes the level is too much, or too less (i do not know where can I see the level of soot) an another times is the temperature of the engine is higher than 60ºC.

Beevee

· #133 · 3 d ago

You’re going to have to smoke test this thing, it’s almost certainly an air leak

hamedhbb

· #134 · 2 d ago

SpanishinAustria said:
Not too much. I have around 5km to my job. And I clean the dpf when the car was working one month ago.
Today I have fixed what I said to Hamed. Now I am waiting for two new MAF sensor, because I do not see any leak ...
I try with Icarsoft to do a regeneration but I have always an error. Sometimes the level is too much, or too less (i do not know where can I see the level of soot) an another times is the temperature of the engine is higher than 60ºC.

The temperatures you mentioned surprises me. I did a airpath test using SDD that needed 65’C coolant temperature to start. You have to run the car for ~40mins at idle to get to that temperature. Yours seem to get warm much faster if you are not driving it.

Gav

· #135 · 2 d ago

hamedhbb said:
The temperatures you mentioned surprises me. I did a airpath test using SDD that needed 65’C coolant temperature to start. You have to run the car for ~40mins at idle to get to that temperature. Yours seem to get warm much faster if you are not driving it.

ambient?

Reactions: 1

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #136 · 2 d ago

hamedhbb said:
The temperatures you mentioned surprises me. I did a airpath test using SDD that needed 65’C coolant temperature to start. You have to run the car for ~40mins at idle to get to that temperature. Yours seem to get warm much faster if you are not driving it.

I am also surprised with this, when you move my car 5 I’m and you open the bonnet it is very warm. I never drive with high rpm when the car is cold, so I am not the guilty of that, but is always very hot.
If I remember I told you and you answered me it was normal (we were speaking about the coolant bottle)

hamedhbb

· #137 · 2 d ago

SpanishinAustria said:
I am also surprised with this, when you move my car 5 I’m and you open the bonnet it is very warm. I never drive with high rpm when the car is cold, so I am not the guilty of that, but is always very hot.
If I remember I told you and you answered me it was normal (we were speaking about the coolant bottle)

The temperature is normal but the speed of warm up at idle is not. It could be because car running very lean.

Beevee

· #138 · 2 d ago

Probably because of the crack in the vacuum intakes that I keep banging on about
Get it smoke tested

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #139 · 1 d ago

hamedhbb said:
The temperature is normal but the speed of warm up at idle is not. It could be because car running very lean.

Beevee said:
Probably because of the crack in the vacuum intakes that I keep banging on about
Get it smoke tested

I bought two new MAF sensors, I will try and the next step will be to buy a smoke machine with 12v (Do you have any of that?)

sandmaennle

· #140 · 1 d ago

I don't have a smoke tester. Do you have a small garage that has such a smoke tester?
I hope the new MAFs will fix one issue. Hopefully it fixes all of you RP issues. But the sound that you can hear in your video tells me, me, that you still have a leak in your airpath.
I will check my pictures tomorrow. Maybe I have one with the soot level reading from the iCarSoft.

@hamedhbb
What about a defective thermostatic valve as root cause for a fast raising engine temperature? Only the small circuit is working all the time.

Dirk

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