But I listen the whistle in the first turbo.
Jaguar is madness
Jaguar XF 2011 Turbo actuator?
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It's curious. But let's ignore it and go on with our brain 
What I need next is the following. But take your time. I will be offline for the next hours
1. Engine Off. Ingnition on. Clear all fault codes.
2. Ingnition on. Clear all fault codes. Turn on engine. Engine idling for 20 seconds and than:
Dirk
What I need next is the following. But take your time. I will be offline for the next hours
1. Engine Off. Ingnition on. Clear all fault codes.
- value ambient temperature + air intake temperature + air charge temperature + engine temperatur + air flow rate MAF1 & MAF2 + Exhaust gas recirculation valve position bank 1 & 2 + Engine speed
- status of RP
- fault codes
2. Ingnition on. Clear all fault codes. Turn on engine. Engine idling for 20 seconds and than:
- value ambient temperature + air intake temperature + air charge temperature + engine temperatur + air flow rate MAF1 & MAF2 + Exhaust gas recirculation valve position bank 1 & 2 + Engine speed
- status of RP
- fault codes
Dirk
Hello Dirk! Sorry for the delay, I was busy.It's curious. But let's ignore it and go on with our brain
What I need next is the following. But take your time. I will be offline for the next hours
1. Engine Off. Ingnition on. Clear all fault codes.
- value ambient temperature + air intake temperature + air charge temperature + engine temperatur + air flow rate MAF1 & MAF2 + Exhaust gas recirculation valve position bank 1 & 2 + Engine speed
- status of RP
- fault codes
2. Ingnition on. Clear all fault codes. Turn on engine. Engine idling for 20 seconds and than:
- value ambient temperature + air intake temperature + air charge temperature + engine temperatur + air flow rate MAF1 & MAF2 + Exhaust gas recirculation valve position bank 1 & 2 + Engine speed
- status of RP
- fault codes
Dirk
I took the values now,
Stopped engine:
Charge ambient temperature 2,76v
Ambient air temperature 27
air charge temperature 26
engine temperature 20
air flow rate MAF1 0,4
MAF2 0,1
Exhaust gas recirculation valve position bank 1 - 0%
2 - 0%
status of RP clear
fault codes clear
Started engine:
Charge ambient temperature 2,84v
Ambient air temperature 27
air charge temperature 22
engine temperature 23
air flow rate MAF1 1,1
MAF2 8,9
Exhaust gas recirculation valve position bank 1 - 8,6%
2 - 8,6%
Engine speed 755 rpm
status of RP
fault codes clear
If you press the pedal, the car is so lazy and you can listen the whistle.
That’s happen after move the car:
P00BD-07 Mass or volume air flow A circuit range - Air flow too high
Hi Sergio,
thanks for the values. They are plausible
Ambient temperature 27°C -> Real temperature? Today I have 24°C outside. But 27°C might be ok, if the car is parked in the sun.
MAF1 = MAF Bank 2 = MAF at the bottom = MAF with 4 cables = MAF with Charge Air Temperature
=> Temperature readings are plausibel. They correlate with the voltage. It is a PTC. Lower temperature = Lower resistance = higher sensor voltage value. Temperature is ok.
=> Air flow rate with engine off is ok.
=> Air flow rate while idling is not ok. Could you check the unit? Is it g/s? The value should be around 18 g/s.
MAF2 = MAF Bank 1 = MAF at the top = MAF with 3 cables = MAF without temperature values
=> Air flow rate with engine off is ok.
=> Air flow rate while idling is not ok. Much too high.
=> Option 1: MAF2 is defective. Can be checked with another MAF. Swap them and check their readings
=> Option 2: Leak in the intake hose after MAF2.
=> Option 3: Second turbo bypass valve is open (number 5 in the dawing of Hamed post -> Bypass No5
EGR seems to react normal. So you can focus on the air intake system and the MAFs.
I have an old MAF in my cellar. If you want to have it for analysis, you can borrow it. But I need it back afterwards. It is my MAF for analysis
Cheers
Dirk
thanks for the values. They are plausible
Ambient temperature 27°C -> Real temperature? Today I have 24°C outside. But 27°C might be ok, if the car is parked in the sun.
MAF1 = MAF Bank 2 = MAF at the bottom = MAF with 4 cables = MAF with Charge Air Temperature
=> Temperature readings are plausibel. They correlate with the voltage. It is a PTC. Lower temperature = Lower resistance = higher sensor voltage value. Temperature is ok.
=> Air flow rate with engine off is ok.
=> Air flow rate while idling is not ok. Could you check the unit? Is it g/s? The value should be around 18 g/s.
MAF2 = MAF Bank 1 = MAF at the top = MAF with 3 cables = MAF without temperature values
=> Air flow rate with engine off is ok.
=> Air flow rate while idling is not ok. Much too high.
=> Option 1: MAF2 is defective. Can be checked with another MAF. Swap them and check their readings
=> Option 2: Leak in the intake hose after MAF2.
=> Option 3: Second turbo bypass valve is open (number 5 in the dawing of Hamed post -> Bypass No5
EGR seems to react normal. So you can focus on the air intake system and the MAFs.
I have an old MAF in my cellar. If you want to have it for analysis, you can borrow it. But I need it back afterwards. It is my MAF for analysis
Cheers
Dirk
Yes, the unit es g/s!Hi Sergio,
thanks for the values. They are plausible
Ambient temperature 27°C -> Real temperature? Today I have 24°C outside. But 27°C might be ok, if the car is parked in the sun.
MAF1 = MAF Bank 2 = MAF at the bottom = MAF with 4 cables = MAF with Charge Air Temperature
=> Temperature readings are plausibel. They correlate with the voltage. It is a PTC. Lower temperature = Lower resistance = higher sensor voltage value. Temperature is ok.
=> Air flow rate with engine off is ok.
=> Air flow rate while idling is not ok. Could you check the unit? Is it g/s? The value should be around 18 g/s.
MAF2 = MAF Bank 1 = MAF at the top = MAF with 3 cables = MAF without temperature values
=> Air flow rate with engine off is ok.
=> Air flow rate while idling is not ok. Much too high.
=> Option 1: MAF2 is defective. Can be checked with another MAF. Swap them and check their readings
=> Option 2: Leak in the intake hose after MAF2.
=> Option 3: Second turbo bypass valve is open (number 5 in the dawing of Hamed post -> Bypass No5
EGR seems to react normal. So you can focus on the air intake system and the MAFs.
I have an old MAF in my cellar. If you want to have it for analysis, you can borrow it. But I need it back afterwards. It is my MAF for analysis
Cheers
Dirk
The MAF1 (in the bottom) is my old one.
MAF2 is new!
About the bypass, when I had the connector unplugged, the ecu said an error because it was always open, but now, the error has disappeared and I guess it is ok.
I think all of this is more simple than we think. Probably a leak but I do not know where and I have not special tools or a place for working. 🤦🏻♂️
Maybe it is no leak. Maybe it is more simple Maybe both MAF are defective....bet let's hope for a leak.
Did you check the motor air filter ?
Even MAF 1 has no good values while idling. It is 1 g/s but it should be 18 g/s.
You can do a lot of checks without a garage. You need a jack and 2 axle stands. You can jack up the car high enough to get under it and check the hoses that you can't reach from bonnet. To check all the intake hoses is not very complicated, but you will need to remove several hoses under the bonnet. You don't need a smoke tester for this job. But a smoke tester would be much easier.
I don't have one and I checked my hoses by hand and eyes.
I guess your MAFs are defective. But that's my best guess .
I recommend the following tests.
Take some newspapers and block the intake of MAF 2 on the top. Start the engine and read the air flow rate of MAF 1 and 2.
If MAF 2 is still reporting a value above 0.5 g/s
You will either find big hole directly after MAF 2 or MAF2 is simply defective.
After that you can remove the motor air filter and block the complete air intake inside the filter housing. Start the engine and read the air flow rates of MAF 1 + 2. They both should be near 0.2 g/s.
Rude but easy tests
Cheers
Dirk
Maybe both MAF are defective....bet let's hope for a leak.Did you check the motor air filter ?
Even MAF 1 has no good values while idling. It is 1 g/s but it should be 18 g/s.
You can do a lot of checks without a garage. You need a jack and 2 axle stands. You can jack up the car high enough to get under it and check the hoses that you can't reach from bonnet. To check all the intake hoses is not very complicated, but you will need to remove several hoses under the bonnet. You don't need a smoke tester for this job. But a smoke tester would be much easier.
I don't have one and I checked my hoses by hand and eyes.
I guess your MAFs are defective. But that's my best guess
.I recommend the following tests.
Take some newspapers and block the intake of MAF 2 on the top. Start the engine and read the air flow rate of MAF 1 and 2.
If MAF 2 is still reporting a value above 0.5 g/s
You will either find big hole directly after MAF 2 or MAF2 is simply defective.
After that you can remove the motor air filter and block the complete air intake inside the filter housing. Start the engine and read the air flow rates of MAF 1 + 2. They both should be near 0.2 g/s.
Rude but easy tests
Cheers
Dirk
The air filter is new, I installed one not the ago. Do you mean put paper between the filter and the MAF?Maybe it is no leak. Maybe it is more simple
Did you check the motor air filter ?
Even MAF 1 has no good values while idling. It is 1 g/s but it should be 18 g/s.
You can do a lot of checks without a garage. You need a jack and 2 axle stands. You can jack up the car high enough to get under it and check the hoses that you can't reach from bonnet. To check all the intake hoses is not very complicated, but you will need to remove several hoses under the bonnet. You don't need a smoke tester for this job. But a smoke tester would be much easier.
I don't have one and I checked my hoses by hand and eyes.
I guess your MAFs are defective. But that's my best guess
I recommend the following tests.
Take some newspapers and block the intake of MAF 2 on the top. Start the engine and read the air flow rate of MAF 1 and 2.
If MAF 2 is still reporting a value above 0.5 g/s
You will either find big hole directly after MAF 2 or MAF2 is simply defective.
After that you can remove the motor air filter and block the complete air intake inside the filter housing. Start the engine and read the air flow rates of MAF 1 + 2. They both should be near 0.2 g/s.
Rude but easy tests
Cheers
Dirk
One question, if the MAF 2 is too high, why does the error say A circuit?
Circuit A is for the first turbo and MAF2 is for the second turbo, am I right?
New update:
I put paper in both holes between the air filter and MAFs, and I have also swapped the MAFs for checking the results:
All the problems are in the first turbo, because first turbo is called “bank 2”
First try with the MAF in the top covered:
![Gadget Display device Electronic device Multimedia Technology]()
second try with the MAF in the bottom:
![Gadget Font Reflex camera Multimedia Technology]()
I really think I have a leak
I put paper in both holes between the air filter and MAFs, and I have also swapped the MAFs for checking the results:
All the problems are in the first turbo, because first turbo is called “bank 2”
First try with the MAF in the top covered:
second try with the MAF in the bottom:
I really think I have a leak
Normally Yes, Sergio But this is a Jaguar
MAF1 = MAF Bank 2 = MAF at the bottom = MAF with 4 cables = MAF with Charge Air Temperature = MAF Circuit B
MAF2 = MAF Bank 1 = MAF at the top = MAF with 3 cables = MAF without temperature values = MAF Circuit A
It's horrible
The correlation is between circuit and cylinder bank. Circuit A is linked to bank 1. Bank 1 is on the passenger side for the LH-driven cars.
Dirk
But this is a Jaguar MAF1 = MAF Bank 2 = MAF at the bottom = MAF with 4 cables = MAF with Charge Air Temperature = MAF Circuit B
MAF2 = MAF Bank 1 = MAF at the top = MAF with 3 cables = MAF without temperature values = MAF Circuit A
It's horrible
The correlation is between circuit and cylinder bank. Circuit A is linked to bank 1. Bank 1 is on the passenger side for the LH-driven cars.
Dirk
I would say, yes
. Even if I would like to see 0.2 g/s instead of 1 g/s for clogged (covered) MAF.The MAFs react as expected.
Maybe after all you can perform an air path calibration. Maybe the MAFs will come down to zero afterwards.
But first, try to find this leak. Start with the intake path with the MAF on top (MAF 2 = MAF bank 1 = MAF A
)Dirk
I love it
Remember what I said?
defective MAFs Dirk
And how is that possible, when the first thing that I did was change the MAF in the bottom one month ago?
I love it
Remember what I said?
Dirk
An now I have a whistle since two days ago 😩
Thanks for the reminder. OP checked this twice.
Maybe we will come back to the manifold with the whistle-video
Dirk
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