Jaguar XF 2011 Turbo actuator?

2561 Views 144 Replies 9 Participants Last post by SpanishinAustria, 9 h ago

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · 23 d ago

Hallo guys, this is my first message, and I will do a little presentation.
I am Sergio, I am an Spanish guy and I live in Austria currently. I bought my Jag XF 3.0d 275cv last year, and when it works perfectly is the best car that I have had, but, that only happen two times haha.

Ok, lets go!

My car, has some problems like, when you accelerate it, appear the Restricted Performance, and when it does not appear, you can not accelerate fast until 2800 rpm,.When you are stopped in a traffic light, the car is going up and down with the rpm by itself, also when you use the Reverse, but if you are in N, disappear, and when you have activated the RP, that never happen, so I guess the problem is with the left turbo. I have changed the MAF sensor, but I did not feel any changes. When I use a diagnose tool, apear this:

P1247-00 Turbocharger boost preassure low
P004d-77 Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid B - circuit high

In this case, I have another solenoid from a friend, and I have tried it (7.02428.00 Pierburg) , now my car in N has no the problem with the rpm, but sometimes in Reverse.
The car is not better, so now I have different codes:

P0235-94 Circuit of sensor A from turbo
P1247-00 Turbocharger boost preassure low
P00BD-07 Mass or volume air flow A circuit range/performance - air flow too high

I was looking the vacuum line, and al the hoses, are visually fine, so now I will try to change the another solenoid (7.22687.27 Pierburg) and I do not really know what to do.
Sometimes as 1 of 20, the car works perfect, although the turbos are not syncronized, you can feel all the power of this engine, so I am sure is not a problem with the turbo, but I think is a solenoid, hose or actuator.

What do you think guys?
Thank you in advance. (I hope my English is fine)

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SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #81 · 9 d ago

Beevee said:
Erratic idle would most probably, in my opinion, be unmetered air getting in
He should spray something flammable over parts of the engine to see if the revs go up. Erm, not petrol but something out of a spray can

Do you think I should buy a ether spray? Or just with hairspray (for instance) can check it?

sandmaennle

· #82 · 9 d ago

Start with the EGR LH (your driver side) and unplug the connector at position 1 of the drawing from my manual.
In the software this is bank 2.

Dirk

sandmaennle

· #83 · 9 d ago

Please not!

Just go on with the measurements first. Then we can decide what to do next. First analyze then improve

Dirk

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #84 · 9 d ago

I was writing to you. I can not take it out the plug, I do not know which is the way but I can not 😂

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #85 · 9 d ago

Ok I have the pictures I have to do a pdf

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #86 · 9 d ago

Here is the pdf.

Now I have the RP permanently, with the code P0033 and the tipycal with the preassure.
When I started the car I could listen a metalic hit, something like a valve opening or closing.

I do not have the same menus than you but 90% is the same.

Beevee

· #87 · 9 d ago

SpanishinAustria said:
Do you think I should buy a ether spray? Or just with hairspray (for instance) can check it?

Does hairspray burn? I don’t have hair….
If it does, give it a go

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #88 · 9 d ago

@sandmaennle As I saw, the intake aire sensor is not ok and the positioning of the EGR neither.

Beevee said:
Does hairspray burn? I don’t have hair….
If it does, give it a go

In the can I have a logo with fire, I will try with a lighter first

hamedhbb

· #89 · 9 d ago

SpanishinAustria said:
Here is the pdf.

Now I have the RP permanently, with the code P0033 and the tipycal with the preassure.
When I started the car I could listen a metalic hit, something like a valve opening or closing.

I do not have the same menus than you but 90% is the same.

MAF temperature shows -40 that means it’s not connected or faulty.
You could swap them, physically. Unscrew it from the filter box and swap.
In RP, ECU ignores the sensors and work like a budge small engine. For instance the air mass is calculated based on engine rpm at a nominal temperature instead of using maf or air temperature. If the fluctuations go away in RP it is sensor related.

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #90 · 9 d ago

hamedhbb said:
MAF temperature shows -40 that means it’s not connected or faulty.
You could swap them, physically. Unscrew it from the filter box and swap.
In RP, ECU ignores the sensors and work like a budge small engine. For instance the air mass is calculated based on engine rpm at a nominal temperature instead of using maf or air temperature. If the fluctuations go away in RP it is sensor related.

I have an special spray cleaner for MAF sensors, I will try tomorrow to clean it, I am not pretty sure this is the problem, could be also the plug.
I am spending a lot of money for nothing and I want to be sure if I have to pay for the next step!

But thank you as always!

sandmaennle

· #91 · 9 d ago

Thanks Sergio for the values!
First of all, please do not use hairspray under the bonnet. Will be horrible to be removed. The hint from beevee is good for detecting leaks at intake air hoses. But you should carefully use something like start pilot. But really carefully. It is not very healthy for you engine.

Hamed gave the hint with the MAF. Check again the MAF Bank 1. It's the one at the bottom.
Bank 1 is the cylinder bank RH (means passenger side in your car). Bank 2 is the other cylinder bank LH (means drivers side in your car).
This is the right MAF for the 3.0 DS -> MAF (NGK)

Was your engine warm before you performed this measurement? Some temperature values are very high for a cold engine.
My interpretation of your values:

Ambient temperature 17°C -> Air charge temperature 27°C => too much. Voltage 2.75V matches the temperature. So it should not be defective. But 27°C is too much. (grey sensor at the manifold intake)
MAF bank 1 -> wrong new type or defective. Value should by <0.5 g .
MAF bank 2 -> OK
calculated load -> OK
Engine coolant temp 61°C -> real value? The engine was warm.
MAP value 96 kpa -> OK. Please check this value at 2000 rpm. The value should raise.
EGR valve position commanded 0% and actual 3.92% -> OK, if the engine was really warm. With a cold engine this should be around 10%.
Fuel temperature 33°C -> Did the car park in the sun? If not, the value is two times higher than the ambient temperature

My conclusion:
1. MAF bank 2 is wrong or defective. Air charge temperature sensor might be defective. These both sensors really could cause your fluctuation.
2. Battery status is not good. Needs to be charged first (CTEK charger?) Low battery might drop down below 9 V during cranking. That will cause other curious electronic problems.
3. Smoke under the bonnet is the third issue with a third root cause. To be fixed after 1 + 2.

Did a garage buy and assemble the MAF 2? If yes, they should do it again on warranty.

Cheers
Dirk

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SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #92 · 9 d ago (Edited)

sandmaennle said:
Thanks Sergio for the values!
First of all, please do not use hairspray under the bonnet. Will be horrible to be removed. The hint from beevee is good for detecting leaks at intake air hoses. But you should carefully use something like start pilot. But really carefully. It is not very healthy for you engine.

Hamed gave the hint with the MAF. Check again the MAF Bank 1. It's the one at the bottom.
Bank 1 is the cylinder bank RH (means passenger side in your car). Bank 2 is the other cylinder bank LH (means drivers side in your car).
This is the right MAF for the 3.0 DS -> MAF (NGK)

Was your engine warm before you performed this measurement? Some temperature values are very high for a cold engine.
My interpretation of your values:

Ambient temperature 17°C -> Air charge temperature 27°C => too much. Voltage 2.75V matches the temperature. So it should not be defective. But 27°C is too much. (grey sensor at the manifold intake)

MAF bank 1 -> wrong new type or defective. Value should by <0.5 g .

MAF bank 2 -> OK

calculated load -> OK

Engine coolant temp 61°C -> real value? The engine was warm.

MAP value 96 kpa -> OK. Please check this value at 2000 rpm. The value should raise.

EGR valve position commanded 0% and actual 3.92% -> OK, if the engine was really warm. With a cold engine this should be around 10%.

Fuel temperature 33°C -> Did the car park in the sun? If not, the value is two times higher than the ambient temperature

My conclusion:
1. MAF bank 2 is wrong or defective. Air charge temperature sensor might be defective. These both sensors really could cause your fluctuation.
2. Battery status is not good. Needs to be charged first (CTEK charger?) Low battery might drop down below 9 V during cranking. That will cause other curious electronic problems.
3. Smoke under the bonnet is the third issue with a third root cause. To be fixed after 1 + 2.

Did a garage buy and assemble the MAF 2? If yes, they should do it again on warranty.

Cheers
Dirk

Hi Dirk!
The car was warm yes, I was using it before. When I have opened the bonnet all is very warm, even the box for the air filter.
Today was around 15-20 degrees here, so I 33 degrees is too much.
What is a CTEK charger?
About MAF sensor, I can not complain I was living in another place 4 months ago (700km). But I have the old one, because I changed one, I can try to swap.

There is a thing that I do not understand. I had wrong values in the MAFs, so I swapped them, and now with differents positions, the value is the same, so, the MAFs are ok! It is what my mind says.

sandmaennle

· #93 · 9 d ago

Hi Sergio,
this is the CTEK charger. I use the MX5S 5.0: CTEK

Yes, the fault with the MAFs is somehow curious. With your result of the swap, I thought everything is ok. But I didn't check your MAF temperature values. Now I saw them in your new values (Intake air temperature). I assume it is the value of MAF 1. Both MAFs have this temperature sensor. Maybe your garage bought one without this sensor or it is really defective.
But this can easy be tested with a swap of the connectors. Then you will see, if the temperature value changes. Or you just plug in you old MAF without assembling it. Just connect.
If you can't read different values with 3 MAFs, you should check the plug and wires.

Dirk

sandmaennle

· #94 · 9 d ago

6

Hi Sergio,
just checked this MAF temperature issue with engine off. MAF 1+2 are the same type but the connectors are different. So only MAF 1 (at the bottom) will send a temperature value.

Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Car Gas Automotive tire

I disonnected both MAF -> Result: RP + Intake Air temperature -40°C (!!

same value as yours)

Speedometer Car Tachometer Gauge Odometer

Gadget Line Font Display device Output device

Connected MAF 2 (top) -> Nothing changed

Connected MAF 1 (bottom) -> tataaa... RP is gone. Temperature back again. Without reset. Just ignition off and on.

Gadget Output device Font Communication Device Display device

Disconnect Air Charge temperature sensor -> Value is 30°C (!) . No RP. But my engine is off. Maybe it will result in RP while driving.

Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive fuel system Automotive air manifold Vehicle

Communication Device Output device Gadget Personal computer Font

I would recommend to check your MAF 1 and/or wiring. You don't get valid temperature data from this MAF.
This is the first thing to fix.
The other issue will follow afterwards

Dirk

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SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #95 · 8 d ago

2

sandmaennle said:
Hi Sergio,
just checked this MAF temperature issue with engine off. MAF 1+2 are the same type but the connectors are different. So only MAF 1 (at the bottom) will send a temperature value.

View attachment 197112

I disonnected both MAF -> Result: RP + Intake Air temperature -40°C (!! same value as yours)

View attachment 197113 View attachment 197114

Connected MAF 2 (top) -> Nothing changed

Connected MAF 1 (bottom) -> tataaa... RP is gone. Temperature back again. Without reset. Just ignition off and on.

View attachment 197115

Disconnect Air Charge temperature sensor -> Value is 30°C (!) . No RP. But my engine is off. Maybe it will result in RP while driving.
View attachment 197116 View attachment 197117

I would recommend to check your MAF 1 and/or wiring. You don't get valid temperature data from this MAF.
This is the first thing to fix.
The other issue will follow afterwards

Dirk

I have tried to do three test with my three MAFs. All are the same:

Font Gadget Audio equipment Personal protective equipment Electronic device

Now looks better, but is for that:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Automotive exhaust

It is disconnected.
Anyway, with this disconnected, the air intake temperature is 24 degrees, and with one of them -40 so one is broken.
This are my code errors with the temperature fixed:
P00BD-07 air flow a circuit too high
P0033-00 turbocharger bypass valve control circuit open
I have always RP

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sandmaennle

· #96 · 8 d ago

Temperature fixed, means that you assembled the good MAF as MAF1 at the bottom and you did start the engine?
And then you got the RP + fault codes?

Dirk

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #97 · 8 d ago (Edited)

sandmaennle said:
Temperature fixed, means that you assembled the good MAF as MAF1 at the bottom and you did start the engine?
And then you got the RP + fault codes?

Dirk

Ok, one step more, bypass valve fixed, connector was a little bit free.
But P00BD-07 air flow to high remains

Also there is a big whistle. I think a have some hose broken.
But if I loose air, why does the alarm say high pressure?
Is it not just opposite?

sandmaennle

· #98 · 8 d ago

Good !!
Can identify if MAF A is really MAF 1 (bottom)?
Can you send a picture of the both MAF values?

Dirk

SpanishinAustria

Discussion Starter · #99 · 8 d ago

sandmaennle said:
Good !!
Can identify if MAF A is really MAF 1 (bottom)?
Can you send a picture of the both MAF values?

Dirk

I am not with the car just now, but it was same values as yesterday. Around 10 MAF1 and around 10-20 MAF2.
But now I can listen the turbo too much, I hope is not the turbo

sandmaennle

· #100 · 8 d ago

OK.
In the meanwhile I found some other information. MAF A belongs to bank 1 belongs to the second turbo. So it is the MAF on top. Not the MAF at the bottom, which reports high values.

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