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Discussion Starter · #241 ·
Hate bolts, Hamed….murder trying to fit a bolt in a hole unless there is a decent centre hanging rim. Studs give an immediate hang point.
Totally agreed. I meant maintenance to prevent brake problem is much easier when hub doesn’t have studs.
 

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Ah….understood, Hamed. Going by what you are capable of in the recent past, just belt the bloody studs out and do the hubs….! Lol.
 
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My local ex-tyre fitter had a little stud bolt thing he would stick into one of the holes to help hang the tyre when refitting. Seemed like a very simple yet handy part to have.

This sort of thing: link
 

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I don't think the hubs are up to it. Tightening the wheel nuts out of the correct order with just a small amount of rust or grit would twist them. When garages use high torque hammer wrenches on them they are easily pulled out of true. My view is thicker metal and better quality steel.
I know the changed the hub and carrier when moved to X260. That could be a hint. The rear hub look more like front wheels hubs now.
Hmmm, interesting
 

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My local ex-tyre fitter had a little stud bolt thing he would stick into one of the holes to help hang the tyre when refitting. Seemed like a very simple yet handy part to have.

This sort of thing: link
We do similar with the manipulator arms. Heavy awkward things. Having some stud bar of the right thread cut down and filed to a bullet nose, in two of the six bolt holes, helps no end when it comes to refitting.
 

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All F-Types with the CCM brakes come with a pair of similar guide bolts/rods.
Coz those brake rotors are hellish expensive and you don't want to damage one by knocking it with a wheel.
Of course unlike Mercs and Beemers which use bolts rather than nuts to mount the wheels Jags have wheel studs so the F-Type guide bolts are hollow and screw over the top of the studs.
 

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Forgot to add, I don't know for sure but I presume the wheel studs on an F-Type with CCM brakes are exactly the same as those with the "cooking" brakes, M12 x 1.5, so the guide bolts should work on all modern Jags.
Can't find any on Fleabay but I seem to remember that not only are they quite rare they are ridiculously expensive from a JLR dealership.
 

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We do similar with the manipulator arms. Heavy awkward things. Having some stud bar of the right thread cut down and filed to a bullet nose, in two of the six bolt holes, helps no end when it comes to refitting.
Called poajering, Rigs…?
 

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Discussion Starter · #249 ·
They loosened the brake disc runout limit from 0.02mm to 0.075mm in x260 manual.
 

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I am wondering the above. It feels like everyone has a problem with brake judder unless they use harsh brake pads that act like a lathe. I recently changed the upper control arm that had about 2mm of play. Judder improved significantly but before changing the discs I wanted to find the route cause. I have used dial indicator and discs are slightly warped. Figures are much better than what it was 1000miles back. Which gives the impression that discs are dynamically changing shape which could happen to a new disc. JPEC recommended use of ceramic pads for front on 355mm and 385mm discs. Also, callipers could cause this reoccurring in near future. I have seen many people replaced discs and it started shortly after.

we had threads about who had brake judder problem. I am wondering if there is anyone without this problem. And what they use.


So I'm new and have a 2015 XJL. I have the brake judder and to say I've replaced everything is an understatement, I've literally almost replaced everything twice. I'm now at the point to trade the car in
 

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So I'm new and have a 2015 XJL. I have the brake judder and to say I've replaced everything is an understatement, I've literally almost replaced everything twice. I'm now at the point to trade the car in
Have you had the discs checked for run-out?

I had quite a lot of run-out on my XJL, and didn’t know if that was because of the discs, hubs, or both. So I got the discs skimmed on the car by a pro-cut lathe.

It’s too early to tell if this has sorted out my judder long-term, but no judder since, and it’s been about 3,000 miles since.

What work have you tried so far?

Welcome to the forum, by the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #252 ·
So I'm new and have a 2015 XJL. I have the brake judder and to say I've replaced everything is an understatement, I've literally almost replaced everything twice. I'm now at the point to trade the car in
Also check the rims. If you have bent rims you very likely have damaged hub as well. In my case I had to skim the hub. I think brake discs are a temporary fix tbh. Hubs and wheels are most important parts to check. Specially if you have larger size rims.
 

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Just fitted new discs and redstuff pads, I bought new wheel bearing assemblies but thought better of attempting to change them.

300 miles in and no judder. My last new pads/discs lasted about 1000 miles before the judder returned so we’ll see how it goes…
 
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