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MY 2012 XF S Portfolio Ultimate Black
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

I need a lot of help from you guys here but I'm going to start with this post.

I recently bought a Jaguar XF S portfolio with XFR front bumper upgrade and full of options. I bought it cheap in an online auction because I thought in worse case it needs some electronic sensors and engine oil flush. engine was running but rattling with knocks on RH top side. I thought bad lifters.
Electronically it just needed a MAF sensor. but as soon as I changed it and restricted performance disappeared, the ticking noise from RH head became worse. Could this be because VVT started to used lifters and the don function properly?

Then a wired noise started from same area. sounds like a dry metal to metal sliding at a frequency almost half or a quarter of crankshaft. it was not continuous as well. sometimes coming and sometimes not. I checked the engine oil filter, There where a lot or tiny metal particles in the filter that magnet catches them. they are not big at all. Very similar to glitters that you see inside metallic paints. car needed timing belt and accessory belts so I started to take the engine apart to get to valve cover which is a great pain. I have been taking things off the car for more than a day and I would say there is still 25% of job left. There is no blue, white, black smoke from exhaust, no water or foam in engine oil, no excessive oil use, no leaks around engine. no abnormal gas kick back to air intake. when I open engine filling cap while engine running, there is bit of suction there that upon my research is normal. i did check engine oil pressure that was a bit high at idle (around 1-2 bar) and I though it is due to old filter.

I have to add that I removed around a table spoon of grease from throttle butterfly and all air ducts and pipes after turbos are full of grease and running oil. is this normal for a diesel? this is my first diesel car. but I can tell the car was not serviced properly in terms of oil changes and probably they used a wrong oil.

I need some ideas from you guys if I am going the right direction? My guess is one of valves is hard to move and the roller on rockers is damaged and when the damaged part is touching the cam it slides instead of rolling. or maybe the hole that supply oil for that one is clogged. unfortunately I did not have a video of that bad sound but I have one before changing the MAF sensor that chicking sound is there. Please watch attached video. If you pay attention to the sound around 00:06 to 00:08 second you'll hear the sound. it's like a chick chick sound on top of lifters sound. this got much worst before I start changing the belt. each of those chick sounds became longer and louder and at some points feels like a dry metal to metal contact squeak.


Many Thanks in advance
 

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Ok....

I'll ask it.

What made you buy a car, knowing it had an engine fault?
 

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Very cheap ??
 

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MY 2012 XF S Portfolio Ultimate Black
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Discussion Starter #4
Ok....

I'll ask it.

What made you buy a car, knowing it had an engine fault?

I thought I mentioned it was very cheap that even replacing the engine is covered and in the meantime I enjoy playing with these things.
 

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I finally took off the valve cover and everything looks completely normal. no excessive wear, no scratches on lobes, rocker rollers or sign of hot spot on camshaft. The only thing was the chain tensioner's lifter arm was stuck in, I could push and pull it easily with one finger that was making a funny noise of pumping in and oil out from a hole but it was sitting at the same position that I left it. I cleaned it and rotated the engine for probably degrees and now the spring works normal.

My questions are:
can this cause that noise?
should chain tensioner be that easy to push in and out? (the chain that connects in and out camshafts)
do I need to take cam bearings out for an inspection?
could a clogged oil filter drop oil pressures to an extend which cams contact with rockers become dry and make that noise? I wish I had tried engine flush before taking valve cover apart.
The injectors hole is too small that my 5mm bore scope won't fit to see inside cylinder walls but from outside, it feels like outer edge of pistons are shiny and the rest is cover by sludge. Is this normal?

Any idea would help me. really appreciate it.

Cheers
 

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Nobody seems interested. I’ll update just in case in future someone gets here. It was a spun big end bearing. Oil feed to right turbo had leak and previous owner ignored it. Possibly oil starvations caused it because all other bearings were in very good condition for the age. I pulled the crank without removing the block and sent for grinding. Lifted RH head with turbo connected. Changed the con rod and engine is running just fine so far. It was a lot of fun for because it was the first time. I only worked on it when I was free and it took a long time (6months). If you don’t enjoy this kind of projects, it definitely doesn’t worth it.
 

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Seems you're not alone in tinkering with the V8 innards

 

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Well done Hamed, few people get this deep into their Jaguars.
 
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Please don't take the lack of posted answers as a lack of interest. As Wilf says, there aren't many of us who venture that far into maintenance and repair so I doubt anyone had anything useful to say.
But congratulations in getting your engine running as it should! We do like to hear about big projects as Steve (Statler) says, there is another FM wrestling with his V8 at the moment and I for one am engrossed!
 

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Thank you Guys. I hope I can help others here. I never worked on car further than brake pads. When I started this I felt like I will never been able to finish a big job if I don’t finish this. I have to add that any one designed this car, seem to intentionally make it difficult to repair. Most of time was waisted on few nuts and bolts that where difficult to reach.

I had to pull lower oil sum, upper oil sump, gearbox, exhaust front parts, EGR, Crank, RH head and one of the pistons. I tried to not touching anything that was working. I was surprised by good condition of internal bits after 148k and shocked why only one of big end bearings was gone. I replaced all gaskets that I touched, belts, pulleys, all crank bearings and oil pump. Rings were fine, I had good compression and could sea cross hatches. So I left original piston and rings in and only replaced con rod. I am really wondering why these engines fail. Even the timing belt was not showing signs of failure after 148k.
 

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Fair play to you Hamed.. especially as pads was as far as you'd been previously!!.. :cool:

You should make yourself a gold star and wear it with pride when you go and do your hour of exercise... :D
 
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its one thing to take it apart , but as you suspect , it could be a spun bearing or something really deep inside, and the man hours alone would be huge, let alone finding new original parts,

i say new, because, if you buy used , you might as well buy a whole engine, drop it in and use all your own looms , electronics and sensors to get it going, it should be plug and play that way , and i bet you could get an engine for £500 from a breakers ,

my main concern is you mention ' metallic ' oil , this means its a major issue that has put metal particles everywhere inside your engine !!

its been a few years since working on my own Jag V8 engine, but recently installed a new head on my old XJ40 , ( that was new from Jaguar ) , but you will need some serious special tools and knowhow to set it all up and ensure it wont become a boat anchor the first time you start it,

dont get me wrong, i am no mechanic, and love doing the work myself, but it is a huge task , and you will get the car on the road much quicker with a replacement short engine

a small pic of my old XJ40 work last summer,,,


179322



179323
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Fair play to you Hamed.. especially as pads was as far as you'd been previously!!.. :cool:
I’ve studied mechanical engineering though.


You should make yourself a gold star and wear it with pride when you go and do your hour of exercise... :D
That sounds harder than what I did to the car o_O
 

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i suppose if there’s no pressure to have use of the vehicle and you treat it as an enjoyable challenge it makes the job much easier.
That’s very true. However, There were other challenges I wasn’t ready for. The other side was to keep the costs reasonably lower than the quotes I got from engine rebuilders so I didn’t feel bad at the end.
 

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its one thing to take it apart , but as you suspect , it could be a spun bearing or something really deep inside, and the man hours alone would be huge, let alone finding new original parts,

i say new, because, if you buy used , you might as well buy a whole engine, drop it in and use all your own looms , electronics and sensors to get it going, it should be plug and play that way , and i bet you could get an engine for £500 from a breakers ,

my main concern is you mention ' metallic ' oil , this means its a major issue that has put metal particles everywhere inside your engine !!

its been a few years since working on my own Jag V8 engine, but recently installed a new head on my old XJ40 , ( that was new from Jaguar ) , but you will need some serious special tools and knowhow to set it all up and ensure it wont become a boat anchor the first time you start it,

dont get me wrong, i am no mechanic, and love doing the work myself, but it is a huge task , and you will get the car on the road much quicker with a replacement short engine

a small pic of my old XJ40 work last summer,,,


View attachment 179322


View attachment 179323
I can tell you have been working on big engines from the way you described it. Lot of sympathy here. Believe me these have been passing in my head all the time after I took valve covers off and they doubled when I realised pulling oil sump is not enough to see big ends. But after these steps, it was going to cost me double compared to if I use a rebuilder in the first place.
The issue is these engines are still used by JLR and you might need it for a 2017 range rover so they aren’t cheap compared to car values. Even grinding these cranks are 3times any other car. I am 100% sure it is because of LR side of JLR. mine was in need for timing and accessory belt as well. The cheapest quote I got was £3500+vat. They take your engine and install one that you don’t know. Even that didn’t sound right because most places quote around £5000 and to be honest, this sounds more realistic for a proper rebuild. The reason is that It was even a bigger project to find lower main bolts, con rods, flywheel bolts and other tty bolts that makes me feel the cheaper places just reuse old parts and gaskets. Also before touching anything I called several of them and they didn’t know torque settings. I replaced everything with new except those I wanted to be as close as possible to other original ones. For instance con rod. I trust them more than new after markets.
my parts+tools was less than half of cheapest quotes anf I could save a lot by reusing old ones.I agree with man-hours. If I had pulled out the engine, the job could have been done maybe 10 times faster. It was my mistake but my reasons were:
I was single handed.
My garage wasn’t large enough to keep the car and engine in addition to other stuff and I didn’t want to leave one of them out for a long time.
I didn’t have a clear picture from beginning. I though it would be just replacing a bearing from underneath. Also I didn’t know engineers try their best to make it difficult for us. There bolts that took me 4 hours to take them off. That’s why I wish I had pulled the engine.
for some strange reason I was trying my best to avoid pulling transmission that seemed to be much bigger task to me. It was the easiest part in fact.

the most difficult part was cracking crankshaft pulley bolt open and I spent 16 hours( one weeknd) on it without luck I showed some creativity by removing crank with pulley and oil pump together and sent them to workshop for grinding. they sorted it out for me. I was lucky that head, cylinder wall, rings and main bearings were all good.

By the way, I wish I had as much room as you had in engine bay or at least one head to deal with but your head and block seem very clean. Did you replace everything with new and reconditioned it? How could you get pistons that much shiny? What was the problem? How does it run now?
 

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Good plan!!.. (y)
 
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