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How to remove xf door cards

80K views 145 replies 43 participants last post by  OBC John 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Right peeps, ive recently removed my door cards to eliminate rattles and a problem with the drivers side window only going halfway down.
I though it may'be a good idea to post some pics of the procedure, one of the Torx used is a 25 but cant remember the other size:(

Anyway here we go this is a front door card removal procedure:
Vehicle Car Automotive exterior Vehicle door Auto part


Locate and gently press on the edge of this cap, it should flip out showing the 1st screw to be removed.

Vehicle Car Vehicle door Auto part Family car


Using a flat bladed screwdriver flip off these two caps located under the armrest. Vehicle door Automotive exterior Auto part Bumper Vehicle


Then look on the top edge of the door card and you will see a triangular bit of trim here Armrest Auto part Automotive exterior Leather Vehicle
gently pry this bit of trim off underneath you will find another torx screw remove this screw.

You should now be able to remove the door card, start at the bottom gripping the card and sharply tugging it towards you (takes a bit of effort) the bottom should come away from the door, then work your way towards the top of the door pulling the card towards you, when you get to the top. pull the top gently but firmly towards you and the full card should come away, at this point STOP and look down the top edge of the card and you will see this Vehicle Auto part Bumper Car Automotive exterior
get hold of the cable and push it back towards the door and it will unclip from the locating slot, you can then unhook it. this will allow the card far enough towards you to see the wiring to the switches etc, on each connector there is a tang that you press and this allows the plugs to be pulled out and the card can be removed.
Vehicle Car Red Audio equipment Auto part
now the card has been removed you will see the speaker block as in the pic, removed all the torx screws from around the speaker block then remove it. Automotive exterior Vehicle door Motor vehicle Vehicle Bumper
. you can now see the two cables with foam wrapped around them, this pic shows the 2 cables.... cable tied together at the point where they cross, this stops the cables vibrating against the speaker assy, while you are in this area it is worth checking that the dark grey block as in this pic Vehicle door Automotive exterior Windshield Vehicle Car
does'nt slide up the channel it is fitted too. (mine did and jammed the window halfway down) if it does slide then put some numberplate tape on the back of it to keep it in position;)

When refitting the door card 1st fit all electrical connectors then locate the bottom in the plastic clips (dont push fully home yet)and swing the card up and refit the door opener cable making sure its correctly in its locating slot, then push the card against the door and push it firmly onto the top clips then go around the panel making sure the clips are located in the holes then push all the clips fully home.

Refit all screws and caps and its job done.;)

The rear cards are a bit easier, firstly remove the rubber cover in the bottom of the grab handle here Vehicle door Automotive exterior Door handle Bumper Vehicle
[ lift this cover out and you should see these 2 Torx screws Vehicle Car Vehicle door Luxury vehicle Automotive exterior
remove them both.
then locate the screw cap in the door handle recess Luxury vehicle Vehicle Car Vehicle door Jaguar xf
remove the cap by pressing a screwdriver on one edge (like tiddlywinks) remove the screw beneath it.
you can now pull the card towards you starting again from the bottom, then unhook the handle cable and the electrical cables you should now see this Red Auto part Vehicle Car Automotive exterior
, cable tie the cables at the crossing point and refit as per front card.

Hope this helps;)

Regards

Alfie
 
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#2 ·
Excellent write up and far more comprehensive than what the service manager at my local dealership told me - he suggested there were just 3 screws!!! :rolleyes:

A comment he did make though which is worth sharing at this time of year is that in the cold the clips that hold the door card in place can be quite brittle and so you need to take care not to snap or break them when pulling the card free.

I did the same job on my roadster recently and bought a special Draper tool to help ease them out. When refitting the card I also put a light coating of grease on the clips which should help them release if the card needs to come off again.
 
#3 ·
Hi yes you are correct, I suppose they could break in cold weather, I have had mine off 3 times now for various reasons and the clips have never broke, in fact the clips on the XF panels are very well made in comparison to others.

Also the tool you talk about would be an excellent idea. I am a little unsure about using grease though as the clips on the XF have rubber anti rattle bands around them which could be affected by grease, the panel's are pretty heavy and I would think grease could also cause the panel not to hold the panel tight enough and cause rattles.

Kind Regards

Alfie
 
#9 ·
Sorry for the late reply Ash, here is a couple of pics (not very good ones that show the clips), the rubber ring is around the back of the clip to stop it rattling you can just see the black rings on the second pic of the rear door.

Here you are front door Auto part Technology Automotive exterior
and rear door Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part Vehicle Engine
.

Regards Alfie
 
#8 ·
Hi alfie, just wondering if you happened to note how the black strip at the side of the windows on the front doors are held on while you had the inner door exposed, I need to replace the one on the passenger side, but can't see how it is held on. Phil
 
#10 ·
Hi Phil,
Sorry for the late reply but I did'nt notice how this bit of trim was fixed, and ive been through my service manual from front to back and it does'nt show this part, it does show the stainless trim but not the black one:mad: my mate put his XF through the car wash a few weeks ago and broke a piece off the trim you are asking about and he bought some of those Stainless covers that Adamesh sell and I fitted them for him, they looked fabulous when fitted. his car was a metallic blue one and it really suited it, so if yours is damaged and you cant get them off in one bit you could always fit the Stainless trims.;)

Also Saoirse ...has done lots of trim removal on the XF maybe worth PM him and see if he knows how they fit.


Alfie
 
#13 ·
Right peeps, ive recently removed my door cards to eliminate rattles and a problem with the drivers side window only going halfway down.
I though it may'be a good idea to post some pics of the procedure, one of the Torx used is a 25 but cant remember the other size:(

Anyway here we go this is a front door card removal procedure:
View attachment 1975


Locate and gently press on the edge of this cap, it should flip out showing the 1st screw to be removed.

View attachment 1976

Using a flat bladed screwdriver flip off these two caps located under the armrest. View attachment 1977

Then look on the top edge of the door card and you will see a triangular bit of trim here View attachment 1978 gently pry this bit of trim off underneath you will find another torx screw remove this screw.

You should now be able to remove the door card, start at the bottom gripping the card and sharply tugging it towards you (takes a bit of effort) the bottom should come away from the door, then work your way towards the top of the door pulling the card towards you, when you get to the top. pull the top gently but firmly towards you and the full card should come away, at this point STOP and look down the top edge of the card and you will see this View attachment 1979 get hold of the cable and push it back towards the door and it will unclip from the locating slot, you can then unhook it. this will allow the card far enough towards you to see the wiring to the switches etc, on each connector there is a tang that you press and this allows the plugs to be pulled out and the card can be removed.
View attachment 1980 now the card has been removed you will see the speaker block as in the pic, removed all the torx screws from around the speaker block then remove it. View attachment 1981 . you can now see the two cables with foam wrapped around them, this pic shows the 2 cables.... cable tied together at the point where they cross, this stops the cables vibrating against the speaker assy, while you are in this area it is worth checking that the dark grey block as in this pic View attachment 1982 does'nt slide up the channel it is fitted too. (mine did and jammed the window halfway down) if it does slide then put some numberplate tape on the back of it to keep it in position;)

When refitting the door card 1st fit all electrical connectors then locate the bottom in the plastic clips (dont push fully home yet)and swing the card up and refit the door opener cable making sure its correctly in its locating slot, then push the card against the door and push it firmly onto the top clips then go around the panel making sure the clips are located in the holes then push all the clips fully home.

Refit all screws and caps and its job done.;)

The rear cards are a bit easier, firstly remove the rubber cover in the bottom of the grab handle here View attachment 1983 [ lift this cover out and you should see these 2 Torx screws View attachment 1984 remove them both.
then locate the screw cap in the door handle recess View attachment 1985 remove the cap by pressing a screwdriver on one edge (like tiddlywinks) remove the screw beneath it.
you can now pull the card towards you starting again from the bottom, then unhook the handle cable and the electrical cables you should now see this View attachment 1986 , cable tie the cables at the crossing point and refit as per front card.

Hope this helps;)

Regards

Alfie
Well done Alfie. You have it spot on. Found that loose block before. I have had to remove dozens of door casings to rectify many different rattles, knocks and window motor regulator noises and even for door glass replacement.
 
#14 ·
I had to remove my door card this morning to refit it properly after the Jaguar service department left it loose at the top.

Alfie - very helpful knowing where to unscrew. I don't think I would have seen the one at the top of the door behind the triangle trim.

Regarding torx sizes: the one in the opening handle and behind triangle trim is 20. The other two below the handle are size 30.
 
#15 ·
Thanks for the write up, Alfie. Very easy to follow but my wife did wonder why I was dismantling my XF a week after buying it. The fact remains that after three attempts to stop an irritating rattle in the drivers door I have only succeeded in making it worse - and I am an engineer! The whole window rattles now but like others have said I can stop that by having it down as little as one centimetre. Does anyone have any more thoughts on this issue?

Cheers, Carlos
 
#16 ·
Hi Carlos,
Is the felt channel ok around the glass? if its the glass thats rattling it could be touching metal somewhere or the rubber surround has gone hard, I used silicone grease in the channels as mine used to click on cold days and this cured it, if you thump the door panel with the window up you should normally be able to locate the problem, the fact it stops rattling when the window is slightly down makes me think it could be when the cables are at their ends (ie one is fully out and the other fully in) that one of the cables is moving over and touching the speaker or other parts within the door. all pure speculation of course but a possibility. its unfortunately rattles are the worst thing to find especially when they are intermittant.

Alfie
 
#18 ·
Probably the cables from the window winding mechanism touching the speaker magnet,..... put a bit of foam between it and fit a cable tie at the cable crossover point, I have had the clips holding the wood on vibrate, so make sure they are pushed fully on.

Alfie
 
#21 ·
Hi Alfie, I have just used your how to remove the front door card and very helpful it was too, the only problem I came across was when refitting the door card was I couldn't hook the inside window seal over the door top, I found it easier to remove the seal from the door card entirely, then remove the clips and put these on the top of door before pushing the card on. I then pushed the door card onto the clips, and when fitted inserted the window seal into the clips at the top of door card. Phil
 
#22 ·
Hi Philayl,

I did'nt notice this particular problem but if its an easier solution too re-fitting the door cards then well done and thanks for the information.

Alfie
 
#23 ·
Well I will be looking to have a go at removing my passenger rear door card to replace the damaged main speaker grill.
I have purchased a salvaged door card & drilled the heads off the plastic rivets & will be re - fitting it to my door card with hot glue in place of the rivet ends.


Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
 
#24 · (Edited)
Per the first post in this thread I've had an annoying rattle in/near the top front corner of the driver's door from day 1 of ownership.
Not constant and not connected to the sound system (ie sound on or off makes no difference), but it rattles every time I'm driving on a less then dead smooth road.
So this morning I had a go at fixing it.
Instructions easy to follow, thanks Alfie.
But I found nothing wrong with the offending insulation, it was all in place. I taped it up just in case though.
Then I found what I reckon was the source of my rattle.
Look at pic #6 in the first post, DSCN2517.jpg.
Near the top left corner under the door mounted tweeter is a large white plastic wiring plug.
On the back of that plug are two threaded protrusions/plugs which hold it to the plastic door lining.
Those plugs were touching the metal door skin, and with plenty of room to move to cause a rattle.
A quick test and sure enough it rattled like crazy, so it sure seems it is (fingers crossed was!) the source of my rattle.
I cut a 2cm x 2cm piece of 1cm thick foam padding, stuck it on the back of the plug over the two protruding bits, and taped it down.
Hey presto, no more rattle! Well at least not so far, yet to give it a test drive though.

Edit - took it for a test drive on some typical Adelaide roads, ie glorified goat tracks, and it seems I have solved 90% of the problem. Still the occasional buzz/rattle, but I reckon it's coming from the dash area around and to the right of the air vent.
 
#25 ·
Has anyone ever removed the headlining (one with the sun roof)? Almost since day #1, there has been an annoying rattle from just behind the sun roof. The dealer has 'fixed' it from time to time but it always seems to return. Last time, I was told there are some push-in clips which don't stay pushed in! Thought I might have a go myself if I knew how to remove it.

Sent from my Nexus 10 and a rather nice black XF-S Portfolio
Hi John. Yes I can shed some light on the old moonroof rattle. I work at JaguarLandrover ltd and have stopped many a moonroof rattle on XF's before leaving for the showrooms. Firstly you don't need to remove the headlining to access and replace the cllips the dealers are referring to. Simpl fully open the moonroof.

There are 4 Black plastic blocks located roughly 2" in from each corner ( two to the front and two to the rear of the moonroof apperture). When these are correctly fitted to the moonroof by the moonroof supplier they are simply pushed up with the h/lining onto thin metal locaters (tag) that hold the clips in place. Often the rear Black blocks loose retention because the flimsy central part shatters when the h/lining is located. Try pushing up the H/lining behing the moonroof at each end, if one or both clips/blocks has failed there will be movement, if not then the blocks should be holding.

The two front blocks you can see in location as they are slid sideways into their position. You would have to power the front seats back and stand in the car with your head out of the moonroof. The rear blocks are a different design and are fitted by pushing them upwards with force. Removing these rear blocks should be carried out with care as they tend to loose the flimsy central part on removal. You don't want any broken block/clip to get lost under the h/lining.

If the blocks have failed and there is no retention then there will be moonroof rattle. You could as a temporary measure push a lot of Blu tack or stickier substance into the blockand around the metal tag that pushes into it.

Another annoying rattle around the moonroof was the due to the rubber baffles fitted either side of the glass and to the channel. These simply pull off top and bottom from each channel. You could remove both and drive to see if the rattle has gone. If it has then you know it is the baffle. I don't know why they rattle but I found replacing them the best option.

Finally another common fault I used to rectify with the h/lining was with the front White or Yellow clips that where not properly puhed up into the holes. If you remove the overhead console by gently prising it down and letting it dangle or disconnect the Grey plug and remove it completely you can view the clips around the front of this location to see if they are pushed all the way in.

Hope this helps. Wouldn't want you removing seatbelts interior trim and the moodroof unnecessarily.
 
#26 ·
JagmanRob: Thank you for such a comprehensive reply! Couldn't have asked for more and as soon as it stops raining I'll be out to have a look and hopefully, stop that bloody annoying rattle.
It seems almost certainly to be the rear clips - nothing discernable from in front of the "moon roof" ;).
Thanks again.

Sent from my Nexus 10 and a rather nice black XF-S Portfolio
 
#27 ·
That's ok. Happy to help.

Hopefully this miserable weather will improve soon. :snow:

I'm sure you will put an end to that rattle within just 10mins. :)
 
#28 ·
John, just for you I have a new set of these blocks. I am told that they are called cassettes. I will pop them in the post for you if you can send me your address. Or I will fit them for you if you are passing near Kings Norton, South Birmingham.
 
#29 ·
Rob, what can I say? Thank you!!
I'm not too confident about "messing around" up there so if your offer to fit them is still on - Kings Norton is only a 20 minute drive for me. Let me know by PM.
 
#30 ·
Just make sure you don 't yank the top of the door card away from the door more than a few inches because the door lock cable is held onto the reverse of the inner door handle by a plastic collar that slots with a click into the reverse of the door handle. Pulling too hard can snap that White plastic collar. That would require a new door lock release cable and assembly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#32 ·
I stupidly damaged the vinyl on my door card. I intend to swap it out so am grateful for these instructions :top:

I have ordered a replacement door card from a Jaguar dismantler but it doesn't have carbon on the red stitching etc.

Will these come off my door card and swap over onto the new one? I only want to use the vinyl panel off the new card basically.

Thanks

Andy
 
#34 ·
Yeah I don't think the leather can be removed. I forgot you had red stitching. The veneer will swap though.


Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk Pro
 
#35 ·
Oh bugger.

That's no good then.

Better cancel the doorcard order :(

I'm even more fed up about damaging it now!
 
#36 ·
Just have to keep an eye out for a door card with the same stitching I guess..... from the picture you posted the damage doesn't show when the door is closed, I know you know it is there and all that but it's not the end of the world to have to wait to source a replacement card.

Have you had it looked at professionally?
 
#37 ·
A bloke came on Thursday whilst I was at work.

He took one look and told 'er indoors that it wouldn't be 100% and that considering the type of car he didn't want to risk it.

I might just have a ring round and see if anyone else thinks they can do it. Looking at the videos on YouTube anything's possible if you get the right company/craftsman.

I will no doubt not be able to resist ringing for a price on a new one, I'd be lying if I said otherwise.

Andy
 
#40 ·
Andy if I remember correctly Saoirse on here said you can actually remove the top part of the door panel by filing off the plastic studs and when refitting using hot melt to re fit it, I can remember because he had some door cards for sale which had a different coloured leather and he had to swop them over.

Alfie
 
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