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Thank you.
When using a mangoose cable on a x260 you need to snip pin 13 otherwise you won’t be able to program and your dash will light up like a Christmas tree. The obdii socket wiring must be different on a x260 than a x250
This is the pin setup I have on mine. I also have voltage readings on pins 1 and 9 something around 10V on one and around 2V on the other. I'm still trying to figure out what that's about and if it's normal (it doesn't seem normal imo)
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🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿X260 R-Sport in Aurora Red
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Discussion Starter · #302 ·
This is the pin setup I have on mine. I also have voltage readings on pins 1 and 9 something around 10V on one and around 2V on the other. I'm still trying to figure out what that's about and if it's normal (it doesn't seem normal imo) View attachment 195535
How are you measuring these voltages?
 

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🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿X260 R-Sport in Aurora Red
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Discussion Starter · #305 ·
With my volt meter, negative lead to a grounding point on the car and positive lead to the pin I want a reading from. I get battery voltage from pin 16 and my high/med can bus both come to 5V testing that way. Am I doing something wrong?
There's digital signals on the Can-Bus and K-Line/L-Line data so you're wasting your time, a DVM can only read A.C complete sine wave or D.C. It'll average out the RMS value if you're trying to 'measure' a digital signal.
 

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There's digital signals on the Can-Bus and K-Line/L-Line data so you're wasting your time, a DVM can only read A.C complete sine wave or D.C. It'll average out the RMS value if you're trying to 'measure' a digital signal.
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I don't know if you have seen this video on YouTube or not but I've watched it a couple times and he explains how to test the canbus line using a Voltmeter both for voltage and OHM.
Here is the link to video if you would like to check it out.
 

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XF Sportbrake MY 2013 3.0 DS
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It is not complete nonsens. You are right. You will measure a kind of CAN level. High (3.6 VDC) or low (0 VDC). You will just know if the CAN bus will have the level, you expect. If it is high all time or low all the time. If you really want to know if it works as it should, you will need something like a CANanalyzer or an oszilloscope.

Dirk
 

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It is not complete nonsens. You are right. You will measure a kind of CAN level. High (3.6 VDC) or low (0 VDC). You will just know if the CAN bus will have the level, you expect. If it is high all time or low all the time. If you really want to know if it works as it should, you will need something like a CANanalyzer or an oszilloscope.

Dirk
Those are way above my pay grade lol I just check to make sure I have 5V total on pins 3&11 and same with 6&14 if they don't add up then I know I have an issue next I check my OHM to see if both terminating modules are good if I see 60 OHM on each pin for can high & can med then I'm good there and now I begin a process of elimination to track down the faulty module. Yes both of those gadgets u mentioned will give a person way more information than a simple volt meter. Anyway I think all this can bus talk has got us off the original topic of the infamous pin 13 that Gav snipped off and it seems are diagnostic pin layout is different from a x250 &x260
So what was pin 13 labeled as when u snipped it?
 

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So what was pin 13 labeled as when u snipped it?
Pin 13 .... ;)
It was the support guys at EOBD Tool where I bought my cable that offered an answer

I was advised this by a member, which I forwarded to EODB:

"Your problem is that x260 (and other multican vehicles, not x250) has additional can bus wiring on 13 pin and mongoose crashes car software when connected. you can isolate this pin, or temporary remove it from car obd connector. it's a common bug."

and they replied :
"Yes, the modules stay in protected state and return no data in SDD, the car continues to complain that the modules have failed.
When the cable is unplugged, the car must be locked and unlocked to return it to normal state."
 
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