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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all

I have been thinking about getting more bass when listening to the audio ever since I got my XF a year ago. Since then I have been reluctant to do it as I have never been comfortable cutting wires etc. to do the job – not in an XF no way!

Instead I replaced the paper speakers in all 4 doors with B&W drivers (bought from online XF breakers) and added sound deadening to all 4 doors – not a lot but just to cover open areas with a ‘second skin’. I also upgraded the mid drivers at the top of the front doors with Kevlar B&W (admittedly bought from Jaguar at some cost). Bee sold me some replacement grill for these speakers – the ones that have the Bowers & Wilkins logo on, which makes a HUGE difference to sound!!!

All of this improved the audio by drastically reducing door rattles/buzzes and provided a cleaner Mid Bass sound.

Still I wanted low bass that I could feel in my back but not shake the mirrors off (after all it is not Vauxhall Corsa). Having followed many on here with their pursuits I finally went about installing the following.

Items:
Mutant 12” Subwoofer and 2 Channel Bridgeable Amp: bought privately on eBay for £40 all in (brand new) bargain!
Customised MDF box made for the Jaguar XF: bought from ‘Basser’ in Poland and shipped over for about £65
http://sklep.basser.pl/en/fit-box-enclosure/344-jaguar-xf-fit-box-subwoofer-enclosure.html
A wiring terminal/binding post for the box: eBay £2
Fuse tap to get a remote feed from Fuse 36 in the boot fuse box
Already had wiring leftover from previous installs to give me a fused 10AWG power cable to battery, earth cable and remote wire
Speaker wire, banana plugs and other wiring consumables from my garage!
X1 ** Bolt 50mm length

The Box
Having taken out the polystyrene tyre containing pump, tyre repair liquid and stuff I removed the OEM subwoofer and gave the area a clean. I also took the opportunity to attach the earth lead to one of the OEM subwoofer mounting holes in the car using the existing M6 bolt. I had to drill a 45mm hole into the side of the MDF box to house the binding post (annoying as I thought basser would include this…). Once internal wires were attached to the inside of the box I placed it in the boot cavity. There was a predrilled hole in the MDF box that aligned with where you would secure the spare wheel spindle to the car. I used a ** 50mm long bolt to secure the box to the car to stop it bouncing around. Once in place I attached the sub and screwed it into the box.

Amplifier
I connected the fuse tap to fuse 36 and passed some blue remote wire under the right hand side boot trim and crimped it to the connecting wire of the tap. The box has flat surface that is around 24cm wide – just enough to place an average sized amplifier on. I fit the amp here as shown on the images and set about connecting the earth, remote and power lead (fuse taken out). I also connected the sub using some speaker wire.

Audio Feed
So one of the issues I had with adding an aftermarket sub is the fact that it required some splicing or cutting into existing wires be it the OEM sub feed or rear speaker wires at the OEM amplifier. To avoid this all I did was crimp on some small blade connectors to the speaker level input connector that came with the amp such that the blades fit into each female connector in the OEM sub plug (see pictures). These click into place and are secure(they wont pop out) but just to be sure I will be securing with some electrical tape.

Fuse was put into the power cable and voila – more bass!
I have tuned it to cut off frequencies above 70hz to blend it in with the other speakers and will slowly replace the amp and sub with non mutant products – something more respectable like Alpine, JBL and so on, but for now it has given me the depth and ‘warmth’ signature the standard audio was missing…and it can be fully reverted back to OEM standard!

I have yet to put the tyre puncture kit and other bits back in (have purchased a carpet boot bag that fits next to the amp to house this stuff.

The box is perfectly shaped to fit in the boot space but weighs a tonne so overall I think I have added some weight to the car. But I am happy - this is how the car audio should have been!!

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Great job, and write up. Looks really good, and you've lost no boot space.

I'll have to get one of them fuse things for fuse 36, as at the moment I'm running mine off the rear 12v.


James
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your help!

Tuning the amplifier LPF down to around 70-80hz gives a much cleaner sound. Those bass tuning apps are awesome. The Bass drivers speakers in all four doors drop to around 75-80Hz and Mids at the top of the door are optimum at around 300-350Hz. At some point when I need the garage space back, I will probably get the urge to put the OEM tupperware enclosure back in but with an aftermarket shallow sub fitted and have it amp'd up.
 

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Looking great, are you pleased with the transformation?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Love it! With the right tuning it allows the mid bass from the standard audio to really come through but then hits the missing low bass notes that electronic music has with ease. It doesn't sound over the top although this is possible with changes to the amp settings!

All this for the slight emphasis in bass that should have been there in the first place!!!
 

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Love it! With the right tuning it allows the mid bass from the standard audio to really come through but then hits the missing low bass notes that electronic music has with ease. It doesn't sound over the top although this is possible with changes to the amp settings!

All this for the slight emphasis in bass that should have been there in the first place!!!
How the bass sounds from the trunk? However, there is some obstacles between the subwoofer and the passenger cabin. Cover, rear seats, etc ... Is this sound "choked" in any way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Surprisingly no, the sound does not seem choked, I have had a sub in a big saloon before and it was in the trunk. I couldn't hear it at all - the car was solid!

In the XF however, it sounds nice!
 

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Can you share the wiring schematics of the OEM sub feeder? Or better to ask which wire where to be connected?
I also don't get to who the fuse 36 was connected. I must admit, I'm not very good on the subwoofer and their amplifiers (never touched one) but I'm interested in a small investment in this area because with two yellow speaker on front doors now the mids are little higher, they also have higher SPL than the grey speakers. Also the built in amplifier is distorting badly and I'm hoping that lowering bass on the main amplifier and getting some more mid and low bass will get better the sound.
 

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Can you share the wiring schematics of the OEM sub feeder? Or better to ask which wire where to be connected?
I also don't get to who the fuse 36 was connected. I must admit, I'm not very good on the subwoofer and their amplifiers (never touched one) but I'm interested in a small investment in this area because with two yellow speaker on front doors now the mids are little higher, they also have higher SPL than the grey speakers. Also the built in amplifier is distorting badly and I'm hoping that lowering bass on the main amplifier and getting some more mid and low bass will get better the sound.
Hi, it has a dual voice coil so the wire diagram looks like 2 speakers. 2 pos 2 neg.

The fuse 36 is used for the remote wire on the amp. Fuse 36 is used because it goes dead with the ignition off, in turn the amp turns off.


James
 

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I see! Many thanks for sharing this!
No problem, if you do decide to do any mods to your audio, feel free to send me a PM if you need any advice. Also I'm sure Tim (the Op of this thread) wouldn't mind you PM'ing him. Alternatively start a new topic as I'm sure there are a few more people on here that could add their input.


James
 

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I will test an ALPINE SWE 815 on Friday.
I'm searching for some fast way of taking the subwoofer out when space needed. This means that I have to find some way of plugging to the power without tools needed. Did you experienced this ever?
The Audio IN looks like RCA so this should be easy to solve. The remote could be probably easy to solve with a RCA/Jack or other way of small plug, right?
 

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This is the connector to the sub-woofer in my Pre-facelift Portfolio if it's of any help . . . . .

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I will test an ALPINE SWE 815 on Friday.
I'm searching for some fast way of taking the subwoofer out when space needed. This means that I have to find some way of plugging to the power without tools needed. Did you experienced this ever?
The Audio IN looks like RCA so this should be easy to solve. The remote could be probably easy to solve with a RCA/Jack or other way of small plug, right?
To have a quick removal, without tools, you could use this http://www.halfords.com/technology/...lug-quick-release-amplifier-sub-box-connector for the live, earth and remote.


James
 

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I''m actually thinking to use something I have as spare at home (UPS power cable):
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Cut in half, one part to the sub the other to the power and remote. 0 costs.
 

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Enlighten a hi-fi ignoramus please.......I have just replaced my 2009 XF lux with a 2011 premium Luxury. I have a large speaker (sub-woofer?) in the spare wheel well. I can hear the improved sound quality, but don't understand how a speaker in the boot improves the sound in the car!! Responses in simple language please!!!
 

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Enlighten a hi-fi ignoramus please.......I have just replaced my 2009 XF lux with a 2011 premium Luxury. I have a large speaker (sub-woofer?) in the spare wheel well. I can hear the improved sound quality, but don't understand how a speaker in the boot improves the sound in the car!! Responses in simple language please!!!
Simple answer to why it's in the boot is space, there is no space to put it in the cabin. The most unique aspect of bass is that it is non-directional to the human ear, which means that regardless of where the subwoofer is placed in the vehicle, the bass sound is heard as coming from all around the car. This is why so many subwoofers are placed in the boot of a vehicle where they seemingly would have their sound distorted by the rear seats of the car. The direction of the bass range cannot be determined by the human ear, so the sounds coming from the boot have the same impact as if they were emanating from in front of or on the sides of the listener.


James
 
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