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I have compared both fasteners and reviewed how each fits.

View attachment 188065

The original bolt is shouldered at the top, this shoulder fits totally within the upper flange of the rear lower arm. The thinner section of the bolt fits within the bush center sleeve, which has an internal bore of 12.1mm. 10mm of the threads remain in the bush sleeve. Therefore, the top section of the front lower arm bush can move quite freely against the non-threaded portion of the bolt. Replacing the bolt with the screw, there is much less lateral movement, due to the overall larger diameter of the thread. I'm not actually 100% happy to fit either now! But I'm happier to fit the screw than the bolt due to the lesser free movement of the non-tightened parts. I do wonder if the lesser diameter of the bolt shank and therefore the free movement of the bush sleeve contributed to the bent bolt under whatever stress caused it?
I think you‘re right that the bush sleeve has caused that bolt to wear through movement.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Nope, same arm. But..... I quoted from the XK/R manual. Part numbers of the arms are different, nuts and bolts the same part numbers. Just why it says on the XF the bolt may be reused but on the XK it is to be discarded, no idea.
 

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I have compared both fasteners and reviewed how each fits.

View attachment 188065

The original bolt is shouldered at the top, this shoulder fits totally within the upper flange of the rear lower arm. The thinner section of the bolt fits within the bush center sleeve, which has an internal bore of 12.1mm. 10mm of the threads remain in the bush sleeve. Therefore, the top section of the front lower arm bush can move quite freely against the non-threaded portion of the bolt. Replacing the bolt with the screw, there is much less lateral movement, due to the overall larger diameter of the thread. I'm not actually 100% happy to fit either now! But I'm happier to fit the screw than the bolt due to the lesser free movement of the non-tightened parts. I do wonder if the lesser diameter of the bolt shank and therefore the free movement of the bush sleeve contributed to the bent bolt under whatever stress caused it?
The bolt on the right looks like it's worn a good bit on the unthreaded shank.

Is there any markings on the head of the bolt?

I'd be replacing it with a tougher spec steel M12 bolt to the correct length.

Agree with others about not using a fully threaded or set screw in the bushing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
There's no markings on either bolt, but assume 8.8. I've ordered some of these in an appropriate strength and length. The thread pitch of the old bolt is standard metric, 1.75mm so the supplied nylocks will fit.
Font Art Jewellery Metal Fashion accessory
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Turning into a saga now! The used arm arrived, but it's knackered, the big bush (which I was going to replace anyway) was out of position and looked damaged. The small bush has play in it so was also damaged and thus the whole arm unusable. On removal, the large bush was oval!

Composite material Rim Auto part Fixture Circle


The small bush was displaced and the inner nylon part cracked.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Rim Bicycle part


Gas Engineering Automotive wheel system Auto part Metal


Clearly, the donor car had suffered some major trauma.

What I've also learned is that the small bush is in fact a spherical bearing of some sort. Complaint made to supplier, full refund given. New Lemforder arm now on order. On the plus side though, I now have a couple of decent gaiters I can retain, as one of my existing was split which I repaired, I can swap it out now.
 

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From experience, there's very few parts that I'd now order second hand and expect them to be any good.

Especially suspension parts, there's no way I'd be going down the second hand route, regardless of what the seller says about condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Self sourced bolts arrived, just in time for the weekend to put it all back together.

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These bolts are a much better fit than either the original or superseded bolt Jaguar supplied. I can't figure out why Jaguar first specified a stepped shouldered bolt, so it'd be a loose fit within the bush sleeve, nor the superseded screw that is wrong in type and length. I trial fitted the screw, it's also too short, the nylock nut when tightened would be flush with the end of the threads rather than having the minimum 2 threads protruding. It's as if someone with little or no engineering knowledge selected something that'll fit with no other consideration whatsoever.

If anyone needs a couple bolts, I have a few spare now.
 

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I can’t help thinking that Jaguar supplied bolt is the wrong one. Mix ups have happened.


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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I can’t help thinking that Jaguar supplied bolt is the wrong one. Mix ups have happened.
Quite possibly. It's the correct part number on the sealed bags. For the £12 they cost, I'm not bothered to send them back to SNG Barratt, they just supplied the part to numbers I ordered. But, how many others may be fitting this screw? It's not actually stated to be changed if removed on the XF but is on the XK. I'm still doubtful the original bolt is correctly specified, but better than a fully threaded screw. I can't imagine Jaguar CRC would be interested if I were to inform them my concerns with the supplied part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
N/S replacement front lower arm fitted, OS front lower arm bush replaced, new bolts at the outer end and new nuts everywhere else.

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Undertray and wheel arch liners to refit, and a pair of Jacuar front mud flaps while I'm here.
 
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You may as well finish cleaning the ARB whilst you at it too ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
You may as well finish cleaning the ARB whilst you at it too ;)
S'pose I could give the components a quick wipe over while I'm there. Only get mucky again though!
 
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
If it's not one thing, it's another. Suspension all reassembled, under tray and wheel arch liners refitted, Jacuar mud flaps on, wheels refitted and torqued. Go to start the car, dash lights up, then goes out. Now nothing. Front side markers on, rear tail lights on and I can't turn them off. Ignition/start button does nothing. Boot release button on dash does nothing. Oh great. Thankfully the boot release button on the bootlid does work. Battery voltage is 10.2v. Connecting a jumper battery has no effect, car still refusing to do anything so guess it's all freaked out and confused. Battery disconnected, now on charge.
 
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Battery charged and reconnected, no issues encountered. Windows and sunroof reset, handbrake reset. Engine started fine. Wonder if the gearbox adaptations have reset too? No more clunks from going over very rough ground, must have been the broken outer bush on the NS front lower arm. The car needs a 4 wheel alignment now, steering wheel is off centre and car is pulling to the left, not unexpected. I did mark the position of the eccentric adjusters so I doubt it's miles off. Booked into Matlock Quick Fit for a session on their Hunter for Wednesday.
 
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