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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally after two years going to do front calipers in next two weeks or so. Any general hints and tips would be greatly apprecified. Trying to source similar Jaguar grey paint as wheels done in. Preparation is my anal forte, but will I need to prime first too...? Car will be off road at indie for three or four days to facilitate so plenty time to get it right. Thanks in advance.
 
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Depending on how rusty the callipers are, I clean them off with an iron remover for the wheels, then blitz them with brake cleaner to get the crap off.

Then a wire brushing, then more brake cleaner, then a coat of rust converter then the paint.

I don’t prime, just 3-4 light coats of paint brushed on. I ‘water’ the paint down so it spreads nicely and flashes off quickly.

Once painted I apply a coat of G-Techniq C5 which helps them stay pristine.

HTH Big Kev
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Big help…..never thought of the rust converter, which I have some MOD approved stuff. Brill…thanks. Will deffo be brushing on to get some micronage….new word……so thinning great tip too.
 
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You’ve reminded me that I bought all the stuff about 6 months ago, and it’s just been sitting around the house. Maybe that’s a job for this coming weekend too.
 

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Still pondering whether to do the new F-Pace ....
 

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Mrs S has been asking for hers to be done.
Red is the preferred option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mrs S has been asking for hers to be done.
Red is the preferred option.
…..whereas with my wife, you say you’re gonnae paint the Jag calipers, and she remarks she never even knew it had bad legs…
 
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To do it properly you should completely remove the calipers from the car.
That way you can clean them thoroughly and access all the little nooks and crannies much more easily.
Not hard to remove and the only "difficult" bit is plugging the brake lines so not too much brake fluid leaks out and not too much air gets in.
 
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To do it properly you should completely remove the calipers from the car.
That way you can clean them thoroughly and access all the little nooks and crannies much more easily.
Not hard to remove and the only "difficult" bit is plugging the brake lines so not too much brake fluid leaks out and not too much air gets in.
Could be ideal to coordinate it with a brake fluid change?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
To do it properly you should completely remove the calipers from the car.
That way you can clean them thoroughly and access all the little nooks and crannies much more easily.
Not hard to remove and the only "difficult" bit is plugging the brake lines so not too much brake fluid leaks out and not too much air gets in.
All arranged my Aunty’s Podean friend……local indie taking car in on a Thursday, removing calipers and pads, and putting car on axle stands until following Monday when he will refit after full fluid flush. Thanks.
 

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All arranged my Aunty’s Podean friend……local indie taking car in on a Thursday, removing calipers and pads, and putting car on axle stands until following Monday when he will refit after full fluid flush. Thanks.
Nice one. I need to do mine as well as they are starting to flake but I can never afford the downtime. What paint are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Nice one. I need to do mine as well as they are starting to flake but I can never afford the downtime. What paint are you using?
Still to finally decide on whose BRUSH-ON GREY gloss to use……dilemmafied by this in honesty.
 

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Hammerite is a popular choice. Stay away from the Halfords caliper paint as it’s very thick and in my case ran when I put some clear coat on it. Although it said red on the tin it dried to an off red more orange ..

In your case as calipers are being removed I would use a spray can rather than brush as would likely give you an even better finish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hammerite is a popular choice. Stay away from the Halfords caliper paint as it’s very thick and in my case ran when I put some clear coat on it. Although it said red on the tin it dried to an off red more orange ..

In your case as calipers are being removed I would use a spray can rather than brush as would likely give you an even better finish.
Just a bit concerned that even a three coat of aerosol will still be thin compared to brushing….? Why do I always type aerosol, then check twice that I have spelled it write…? Ah mean, just miss oot the “h”…..anus.
 

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I've painted the calipers gotta be at least 10 times now across my last five cars and every time I used aerosol cans.
Never even considered using a brush and never had a problem (other than with clear coat, see below).
I usually applied two coats and a couple of times three coats, you need to watch out for too much/thick as opposed to too little/thin. Too thick and it runs and makes a mess, too thin just means let it dry and whack on another coat.
Another tip - if you want to stick decals on then don't apply clear over the top of the decals, most times it is better if you don't (once or twice the clear has mucked things up) and the last few I have used have said "don't apply clear over the top" in the instructions. Even with no clear coat over the top the decals have never deteriorated one iota, but if you really must use clear then make sure it is the same type and brand as the base paint otherwise you risk the clear dissolving the base (don't ask how I know this!).
 
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Too thick and you lose the definiton in the metal of the caliper casting and it looks false, unless that is, they were painted from factory and they are beautifully smooth already.
I usually spray the paint into the lid and brush it on, but them I'm also mechanically lazy and do them in situ... :)

I avoid clear over the top and use the G5 coating instead, which protects the paint and any decals added, also prevents the brake dust sticking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That blue was my colour of choice, followed by grey, followed by light blue, so got a black wan (one).
Caliper painting suspended….indie booked solid into October so cannot remove wheels and calipers, etc.
Oh to be ten years younger….mibeez wee bit more.
 
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