Having such a list of different faults does/can suggest a failing battery. Perhaps look in that direction first.
Engine Warning Light, EGR code and Restricted Performance - Eeekkk!
Evening chaps.
OK so my woes go something like this...
I was driving the car the other day on a duel carriageway, minding my own business, 60mph when I look at the clocks and I see a red engine warning light, at least I think that's what it is.
![Speedometer Vehicle Trip computer Odometer Gauge]()
I borrow my girlfriends dads OBD reader, plug it in and it gives me this code. In the booklet it says EGR faulty.
![Blue Communication Device Gadget Satellite phone Audio equipment]()
I managed to clear the code and the light went out. Result! Then the next day, driving down another duel carriageway, I go to overtake a car and as I am accelerating the car kicks down a gear and I hear a bang! Then I realise I have no power and on the dash it says Restricted Performance.
![Speedometer Gauge Trip computer Car Odometer]()
I managed to limp the car home, and today I called out AA. Guy turns up, starts the car and says, does it always sound throaty like that, I said no it doesn't, he opened the bonnet and we found this:
![Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Hood]()
Simple pipe had popped off as the car kicked down. I asked about the error codes and he said they have been cleared and they were all relating to this.
I drove the car today, lovely, as I near home, damn engine light on the dash again... Fed up.
So clearly that pipe coming off wasn't the issue and maybe I do have a faulty / clogged EGR.
I did the, Entering Test Mode on the car, the gauge sweep thing and saw this information from onboard diagnostics:
ACC - FAULTY (true, the air con has stopped working)
HDM - Faulty (not sure what this stands for)
ICM - Faulty (again, not sure what this stands for)
TPMS - Faulty (I don't have a tyre pressure monitoring system on this car)
PATS - Missing (huh? lol)
DTC's
900815 900AB7
9B3387 9C3477
9D3615
--------------------------------------------------------
Soooo questions if I may?
What's wrong with my car 🥺
And where do we start ? I guess with the engine management light on.
Q1. The OBD reader thing I gave back so I should really invest in my own. Is there one that works well with the Jag or will any do?
Q2. If that OBD reader was right and the EGR is at fault then what are my options with it?
Firstly where is it, secondly can it be cleaned? And is this an easy job and will it require a certain solution? Can I use blanking plates and blank off the EGR to save this trouble? I did that in a Focus and it made a real positive difference.
I guess I'll start with that unless anyone else can spot anything from the DTC's or info on here.
OBD reader I think needs to be my first port of call. Do some give more info than others? Or can I shop for any, and any tips on the EGR side of things and what my options are moving forward I'd be super grateful for.
Thanks in advance
OK so my woes go something like this...
I was driving the car the other day on a duel carriageway, minding my own business, 60mph when I look at the clocks and I see a red engine warning light, at least I think that's what it is.
I borrow my girlfriends dads OBD reader, plug it in and it gives me this code. In the booklet it says EGR faulty.
I managed to clear the code and the light went out. Result! Then the next day, driving down another duel carriageway, I go to overtake a car and as I am accelerating the car kicks down a gear and I hear a bang! Then I realise I have no power and on the dash it says Restricted Performance.
I managed to limp the car home, and today I called out AA. Guy turns up, starts the car and says, does it always sound throaty like that, I said no it doesn't, he opened the bonnet and we found this:
Simple pipe had popped off as the car kicked down. I asked about the error codes and he said they have been cleared and they were all relating to this.
I drove the car today, lovely, as I near home, damn engine light on the dash again... Fed up.
So clearly that pipe coming off wasn't the issue and maybe I do have a faulty / clogged EGR.
I did the, Entering Test Mode on the car, the gauge sweep thing and saw this information from onboard diagnostics:
ACC - FAULTY (true, the air con has stopped working)
HDM - Faulty (not sure what this stands for)
ICM - Faulty (again, not sure what this stands for)
TPMS - Faulty (I don't have a tyre pressure monitoring system on this car)
PATS - Missing (huh? lol)
DTC's
900815 900AB7
9B3387 9C3477
9D3615
--------------------------------------------------------
Soooo questions if I may?
What's wrong with my car 🥺
And where do we start ? I guess with the engine management light on.
Q1. The OBD reader thing I gave back so I should really invest in my own. Is there one that works well with the Jag or will any do?
Q2. If that OBD reader was right and the EGR is at fault then what are my options with it?
Firstly where is it, secondly can it be cleaned? And is this an easy job and will it require a certain solution? Can I use blanking plates and blank off the EGR to save this trouble? I did that in a Focus and it made a real positive difference.
I guess I'll start with that unless anyone else can spot anything from the DTC's or info on here.
OBD reader I think needs to be my first port of call. Do some give more info than others? Or can I shop for any, and any tips on the EGR side of things and what my options are moving forward I'd be super grateful for.
Thanks in advance
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Hey guys.
OK so while sat here I rang a local company called Fittapart and they do battery and alternator testing, so I drove over there and paid them the £5 for the test and for that you get a print out of what's what.
Here is what the test came back at:
![]()
So there are 2 batteries in the boot of the car, one small one large. I thought the small one was the start stop battery, turns out this is not the case. The small battery is an ancillary battery which is used for things like electric seats, air con etc, so the chap said.
The big main battery has the start stop technology in it.
The small battery was tested and it came back fine.
He then tested the alternator and also confirmed that this was fine too.
He tested the main battery and again it came back as Good but to Recharge.
He asked me about town miles and I said yes I do some town miles but it gets a good run at least once or twice a week.
He was confused because yesterday I did a 40 mile round trip, but today the battery is only showing that it's 58% charged.
Also worth mentioning is the cold cranking amps were 689 on a 850 battery, he said wasn't too bad but wouldn't want it much lower.
The thing is, if the alternator is working and charging the battery, and the battery is of good condition, and it's had a 40 mile journey yesterday then why isn't the health of the battery greater than 58%? Especially with the health of the battery still being 81% healthy at only half charge.
What he has asked me to do is charge the battery and take it back for another free charge and we'll see if the state of charge goes up.
Phew...
I have a battery charger here, a new one, so I'll get it out the car and leave it on charge for 24hrs and take it back.
Based on the readings then, what can we determine from that? Can we say that given the battery is coming back as good, but low state of charge, can that or can that not then be responsible for all my error codes?
I now need to go and take the battery out the car. Is it as simple as taking off the negative then positive and pulling it out and fitting is reverse?
Thanks so much everyone. I'd be lost without y'all and probably catching the bus too lol.
OK so while sat here I rang a local company called Fittapart and they do battery and alternator testing, so I drove over there and paid them the £5 for the test and for that you get a print out of what's what.
Here is what the test came back at:
So there are 2 batteries in the boot of the car, one small one large. I thought the small one was the start stop battery, turns out this is not the case. The small battery is an ancillary battery which is used for things like electric seats, air con etc, so the chap said.
The big main battery has the start stop technology in it.
The small battery was tested and it came back fine.
He then tested the alternator and also confirmed that this was fine too.
He tested the main battery and again it came back as Good but to Recharge.
He asked me about town miles and I said yes I do some town miles but it gets a good run at least once or twice a week.
He was confused because yesterday I did a 40 mile round trip, but today the battery is only showing that it's 58% charged.
Also worth mentioning is the cold cranking amps were 689 on a 850 battery, he said wasn't too bad but wouldn't want it much lower.
The thing is, if the alternator is working and charging the battery, and the battery is of good condition, and it's had a 40 mile journey yesterday then why isn't the health of the battery greater than 58%? Especially with the health of the battery still being 81% healthy at only half charge.
What he has asked me to do is charge the battery and take it back for another free charge and we'll see if the state of charge goes up.
Phew...
I have a battery charger here, a new one, so I'll get it out the car and leave it on charge for 24hrs and take it back.
Based on the readings then, what can we determine from that? Can we say that given the battery is coming back as good, but low state of charge, can that or can that not then be responsible for all my error codes?
I now need to go and take the battery out the car. Is it as simple as taking off the negative then positive and pulling it out and fitting is reverse?
Thanks so much everyone. I'd be lost without y'all and probably catching the bus too lol.
Yep you were right about the extension lead 👍
I tried to find a negative but the terminal or screw and frame at the back didn't work and I couldn't find another anchor point to go from so u went direct to the battery.
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So after a 24hr cycle I'll take it back to Fittapart for another free test and see if the battery health is greater than today's 58% state of charge. Then over next few days I'll monitor it in a morning every morning to see if the voltage is dropping maybe suggesting a drain somewhere.
I tried to find a negative but the terminal or screw and frame at the back didn't work and I couldn't find another anchor point to go from so u went direct to the battery.
So after a 24hr cycle I'll take it back to Fittapart for another free test and see if the battery health is greater than today's 58% state of charge. Then over next few days I'll monitor it in a morning every morning to see if the voltage is dropping maybe suggesting a drain somewhere.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
