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Engine Warning Light, EGR code and Restricted Performance - Eeekkk!

426 Views 22 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  ErosXF
4
Evening chaps.

OK so my woes go something like this...

I was driving the car the other day on a duel carriageway, minding my own business, 60mph when I look at the clocks and I see a red engine warning light, at least I think that's what it is.

Speedometer Vehicle Trip computer Odometer Gauge


I borrow my girlfriends dads OBD reader, plug it in and it gives me this code. In the booklet it says EGR faulty.

Blue Communication Device Gadget Satellite phone Audio equipment


I managed to clear the code and the light went out. Result! Then the next day, driving down another duel carriageway, I go to overtake a car and as I am accelerating the car kicks down a gear and I hear a bang! Then I realise I have no power and on the dash it says Restricted Performance.

Speedometer Gauge Trip computer Car Odometer


I managed to limp the car home, and today I called out AA. Guy turns up, starts the car and says, does it always sound throaty like that, I said no it doesn't, he opened the bonnet and we found this:

Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Hood


Simple pipe had popped off as the car kicked down. I asked about the error codes and he said they have been cleared and they were all relating to this.

I drove the car today, lovely, as I near home, damn engine light on the dash again... Fed up.

So clearly that pipe coming off wasn't the issue and maybe I do have a faulty / clogged EGR.

I did the, Entering Test Mode on the car, the gauge sweep thing and saw this information from onboard diagnostics:

ACC - FAULTY (true, the air con has stopped working)
HDM - Faulty (not sure what this stands for)
ICM - Faulty (again, not sure what this stands for)
TPMS - Faulty (I don't have a tyre pressure monitoring system on this car)
PATS - Missing (huh? lol)

DTC's

900815 900AB7
9B3387 9C3477
9D3615

--------------------------------------------------------

Soooo questions if I may?

What's wrong with my car 馃ズ

And where do we start ? I guess with the engine management light on.

Q1. The OBD reader thing I gave back so I should really invest in my own. Is there one that works well with the Jag or will any do?
Q2. If that OBD reader was right and the EGR is at fault then what are my options with it?

Firstly where is it, secondly can it be cleaned? And is this an easy job and will it require a certain solution? Can I use blanking plates and blank off the EGR to save this trouble? I did that in a Focus and it made a real positive difference.

I guess I'll start with that unless anyone else can spot anything from the DTC's or info on here.

OBD reader I think needs to be my first port of call. Do some give more info than others? Or can I shop for any, and any tips on the EGR side of things and what my options are moving forward I'd be super grateful for.

Thanks in advance :)
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Having such a list of different faults does/can suggest a failing battery. Perhaps look in that direction first.
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Hi, sorry to hear of your woes, I believe that the ACC is not air con but automatic cruise control, maybe someone can confirm this, as John says get the battery checked a failing battery can throw up some weird codes. Phil
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ICM = Ignition Control Module
PATS = Passive Anti-Theft System
HDM ?? Don't know. Could it be HCM? High-speed CAN Network Module

Anyway, such apparantly random and unconected faults are (usually) an indication of a low or failing battery.
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Hi guys.

OK so developments.....

I almost bought one of these OBD reader things last night for 500 quid, but luckily stopped myself at the last moment.

In order to fix my issues I first thought I need to know exactly what's going on.

Then I had another thought... Near me there is a company called Junction 28 Remaps.

This company offers a service. So what I can have done for 350+ pounds is they will:

Cat delete
DPF delete
EGR delete (I believe they write it out the ECU)
Remap

So from that moment on I should never get a cat issue as there wont be one, a dpf issue as again it will be gone and the EGR will be written out of the system.

The chap said it will smoke a bit as there is no DPF now to catch the fumes, but that's a small price to pay to never have these problems again.

I explained about my engine warning light and he plugged it into his snap-on reader, he said there are a lot of error codes, over 17. There was gearbox errors, ECU errors etc. I explained about advice on a forum about a failing battery could be the culprit and he agreed, he said a lot of these errors were down to voltage.

So I have agreed to having the work done next week, however I am still left with other issues.

He said there shouldn't be oil in that breather pipe that popped off which could signal failing turbo or something else. He feels the pressure was so much because the car is blocked which is why it popped the pipe off.

He also said petrol can get in the oil and it affects the crank shaft and snaps them, the oil turns to crud. So I have asked for an oil change at the same time as the map and deletes are done..

He said it was up to me and to think about it, but what choice do I have? If I don't have it done the car is gonna go bang anytime soon, and if I do have it done then I feel it has limited life span anyway due to other issues.

All I can do is try.

It's good to know you guys know what you're on with. You were spot on by the sounds of it with the battery issue causing some voltage faults at least.

I am a bit gutted because my bro passed away and we got some life insurance money and I spent it all on this Jag, and with very little money to live on it seems I may not be able to maintain it and keep it running. I feel it's just got a limited life span now unless you have very deep pockets.

Oh while I remember the bloke said he will clean out the intercooler too at the same time too while he's there.

He told me not to drive it in the mean time so she's parked up until next week.

Question is, should I source a battery in the mean time? That way he can clear the codes that may appear when replacing the battery? And is there any way of testing the alternator because I don't want to replace the battery if it's the alternator that's the problem.

Phew... That's a lot to remember...
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1. Source the battery FIRST. It MAY fix everything!!
2. Be aware that "deleting" any pollution control systems on your car (DPF and EGR) is illegal and will be an automatic MOT fail. Your man should have pointed that out.
3. Oil turning to "crud" is NOT the reason for crank-shaft fails (which mainly affects Land Rover models). There is an issue with oil dilution BUT NOT WITH THE X250 XF. At this point I would seriously start doubting this guy's knowledge of Jaguars.
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Thanks for the info on this John.

Yes he mentioned about the MOT but said if I see him that he can source an MOT with the DPF being removed.

OK battery then let's get a new one in and see what's what. I have a multimeter somewhere. Should I take reading with the engine off, at idle and revving ? Or just go straight for a replacement unit?

Then I have the problem of which one? Is there one I should be going for? There is a place near me called Fittapart and I think they do battery checks maybe I should have a run up there, I think Halfords do this check too.

Is there a better type of battery to be looking for? There are acid ones and gel ones and all sorts these days.

Thanks a lot for your help and advice.
If your car has stop start you would be best with an AGM battery. Phil
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Thanks for the info on this John.

Yes he mentioned about the MOT but said if I see him that he can source an MOT with the DPF being removed.

OK battery then let's get a new one in and see what's what. I have a multimeter somewhere. Should I take reading with the engine off, at idle and revving ? Or just go straight for a replacement unit?

Then I have the problem of which one? Is there one I should be going for? There is a place near me called Fittapart and I think they do battery checks maybe I should have a run up there, I think Halfords do this check too.

Is there a better type of battery to be looking for? There are acid ones and gel ones and all sorts these days.

Thanks a lot for your help and advice.
What does it say on the one that's in there?
Should be something like - 95Ah / 850A with a number 019 and as Phil says, probably "AGM".
Yes, get it checked at Halfords.
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Hey guys.

OK so while sat here I rang a local company called Fittapart and they do battery and alternator testing, so I drove over there and paid them the 拢5 for the test and for that you get a print out of what's what.

Here is what the test came back at:



So there are 2 batteries in the boot of the car, one small one large. I thought the small one was the start stop battery, turns out this is not the case. The small battery is an ancillary battery which is used for things like electric seats, air con etc, so the chap said.

The big main battery has the start stop technology in it.

The small battery was tested and it came back fine.

He then tested the alternator and also confirmed that this was fine too.

He tested the main battery and again it came back as Good but to Recharge.

He asked me about town miles and I said yes I do some town miles but it gets a good run at least once or twice a week.

He was confused because yesterday I did a 40 mile round trip, but today the battery is only showing that it's 58% charged.

Also worth mentioning is the cold cranking amps were 689 on a 850 battery, he said wasn't too bad but wouldn't want it much lower.

The thing is, if the alternator is working and charging the battery, and the battery is of good condition, and it's had a 40 mile journey yesterday then why isn't the health of the battery greater than 58%? Especially with the health of the battery still being 81% healthy at only half charge.

What he has asked me to do is charge the battery and take it back for another free charge and we'll see if the state of charge goes up.

Phew...

I have a battery charger here, a new one, so I'll get it out the car and leave it on charge for 24hrs and take it back.

Based on the readings then, what can we determine from that? Can we say that given the battery is coming back as good, but low state of charge, can that or can that not then be responsible for all my error codes?

I now need to go and take the battery out the car. Is it as simple as taking off the negative then positive and pulling it out and fitting is reverse?

Thanks so much everyone. I'd be lost without y'all and probably catching the bus too lol.
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Do not remove it from the car!!!!!!!!!! Charge it on the car, charger positive to battery positive and charger earth to a point on the car bodywork, do not put the charger earth on the earth battery lead. Phil
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Make sure that your charger has an AGM setting.
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Awesome guys thanks for that.

2 questions.

1. Any idea on a suitable earth near the battery to clip to?

2. I can park it outside my kitchen window, feed the extension wire through the rear passenger window, what do I do when I lock the car, will it try and close the window with the wire through or is this safe?

Thanks again.
The battery is in the boot! The boot seal can accommodate an extension lead.
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2
Yep you were right about the extension lead 馃憤

I tried to find a negative but the terminal or screw and frame at the back didn't work and I couldn't find another anchor point to go from so u went direct to the battery.





So after a 24hr cycle I'll take it back to Fittapart for another free test and see if the battery health is greater than today's 58% state of charge. Then over next few days I'll monitor it in a morning every morning to see if the voltage is dropping maybe suggesting a drain somewhere.
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1. Source the battery FIRST. It MAY fix everything!!
2. Be aware that "deleting" any pollution control systems on your car (DPF and EGR) is illegal and will be an automatic MOT fail. Your man should have pointed that out.
3. Oil turning to "crud" is NOT the reason for crank-shaft fails (which mainly affects Land Rover models). There is an issue with oil dilution BUT NOT WITH THE X250 XF. At this point I would seriously start doubting this guy's knowledge of Jaguars.
Only will be a fail if you are silly enough to actually declare the DPF/EGR delete at the MOT. All the hardware is left in place and there is no check done for an electronic delete. The actual emissions results will be well within the permitted limits if you have looked after the motor.
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Only will be a fail if you are silly enough to actually declare the DPF/EGR delete at the MOT. All the hardware is left in place and there is no check done for an electronic delete. The actual emissions results will be well within the permitted limits if you have looked after the motor.
I very much doubt that. Full revs on a diesel without a DPF doesn't look pretty and I'm sure if you can SEE it then the clever instruments will dedect it.
And don't forget this is not only going to be sans DPF but also sans EGR!
And that's aside from the anti-social aspects of doing it.
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I'd prefer it all standard if I had a choice, but I just don't have money to keep on top of dpf, EGR etc.

I don't tend to drive my car fast at all, can't afford it for one lol plus I have a Kawasaki ZX-14 for if I wanna get my speed kicks. The Jag is just a comfortable cruiser to me to get me about, but after this I'll only be using it on longer drives.

I've got a feeling its not gonna last me long with all it's other issues, but I'll do my best to tackle um one at a time n keep everything crossed.

I'll let y'all know what the difference is like after a remap and everything gutted and take a pic of the smog if there is any lol I'm hoping it's not too bad 馃
It's during the MOT that it has to be revved, I'm afraid.
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I'd prefer it all standard if I had a choice, but I just don't have money to keep on top of dpf, EGR etc.

I don't tend to drive my car fast at all, can't afford it for one lol plus I have a Kawasaki ZX-14 for if I wanna get my speed kicks. The Jag is just a comfortable cruiser to me to get me about, but after this I'll only be using it on longer drives.

I've got a feeling its not gonna last me long with all it's other issues, but I'll do my best to tackle um one at a time n keep everything crossed.

I'll let y'all know what the difference is like after a remap and everything gutted and take a pic of the smog if there is any lol I'm hoping it's not too bad 馃
you'll be fine. I've had 4 years of pleasure since my remap and EGR/DPF delete. And believe me the French MOT equivalent is more stringent than in the UK.
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