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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys. Just after some advice on fixing some little electrical quirks. Mainly the windows and the boot.

First off the boot. Sometimes it works perfectly. Other times it will open but not close. Open just a little. Open halfway and start closing. Close a little and start opening or close 90% of the way and stop. I’m guessing some sort of module issue potentially?

Same goes for the windows. The open no problem. And most of the time they shut no problem. But occasionally the close part of the way and then re open. It can take a number of attempts to actually close the window. Only happens on the drivers side front and rear.

Things I’ve tried:

Disconnecting the battery overnight to reset everything

Spraying some silicone spray down the window rubbers and boot hinge rubber to try and “clean” it somewhat.

I’m guessing I’m going to need to be replacing motors. I just wanted to check if there’s anything else I can try in the meantime. Mechanically it turns out this car is great. Electrically it seems to be similar to other Jags I’ve owned!


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XJ Portfolio.2014.Amethyst Black.
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Windows sound like a simple reset, Stefan…..in the manual and covered by John OBC just a couple of days ago, whilst eating his pie.

Edit……see post 31 of “Closing sunroof from the remote”.
 

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🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿X260 R-Sport in Aurora Red
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Can’t help you with the boot, but my passenger window did this on my x250, but taking the door card off without doing anything more it would behave perfectly. The symptoms your experience is the anti pinch where the mechanism is drawing too much current and the car interprets this as there’s possibly a head/limb in the window.
I tried silicon spray etc but couldn’t see an obvious fault.
Good idea to silicon the window guides though, could be the Bowden cables are rusted inside.
Not an electrical fault though
 

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The boot might just need a manual seeing-to! Pop the latch but physically stop it rising. Then manually open it to it's full extent. Press the close button and see what happens.
 

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Then what you need is one of these . . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok so I haven’t took the door cards off yet to check. But tried all the resets etc. You suggested but still no luck. I’m hoping it doesn’t come to replacing modules etc. Hopefully it’ll plug into a computer and be able to clear the issues


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Turns out the previous owner already fitted this!


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Just because you don’t have fancy rear footwell lights like mine, you have tae show off something NONE of us have….! Really smart that, and would help my vertically challenged wife out no end….!
EDIT…..sorry Stefan…..meant for John OBC….lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Haha it is a nice little feature!

On another note I’ve found another quirk. This time with the heating. With the temp set in the front. The drivers side comes out a good few degrees colder than the passenger. Had it set to 20 today, my side coming out cold. Passenger side coming out red hot! Put it down to LO and both come out cold (passenger side still slightly warmer than the drivers). Almost like a sensor is reading the ambient temp being much colder on one side than the other!


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cough gas recharge cough
 

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Stuck blend flap or failed blend flap servo motor. Either way, it's a heater box access job so dash out. Suggest reading the heating/cooling DTCs though, may give an indication to the actual fault. Inside the heater box, the evaporator is always cold and the heater matrix always hot. Air is mixed between the two and the outlet air temperature is dependant on the position of the blend flap. Left and right side are seperate, but a common evaporator and matrix, so two blend flaps, two motors etc. Direction control flaps are common to both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Stuck blend flap or failed blend flap servo motor. Either way, it's a heater box access job so dash out. Suggest reading the heating/cooling DTCs though, may give an indication to the actual fault. Inside the heater box, the evaporator is always cold and the heater matrix always hot. Air is mixed between the two and the outlet air temperature is dependant on the position of the blend flap. Left and right side are seperate, but a common evaporator and matrix, so two blend flaps, two motors etc. Direction control flaps are common to both sides.
I did take a look through the workshop manual. I’m not sure if it’s a stuck flap/motor only because it does go cold if I set it to lo. It’s more like it’s a computer error and is not telling it to open at the correct times.

What’s the cheapest way to read to the DTCs? I’ve only got one of these cheap Chinese universal readers so that’s no good. I did think of getting one of the dodgy SDD things from eBay. Wouldn’t trust it for making changes etc. But just for reading codes it might be ok?


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The cheapest way is to use another FM's iCarsoft v2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That would definitely be a much cheaper way. Are those any good by the way? We’re looking at trading in my partners Seat Ateca for most likely a discovery. Might be worth picking one up anyway.


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Quite a few of us have the iCarSoft LR V2 (V3 now out), but other units are available.
 

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It's possible the blend flap isn't moving the full travel so when full hot is selected cold air is still drawn over the evaporator thus providing only luke warm air?
 
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