Yes of course, but that's the point. If it should be open, which obviously it should as the turbo is boosting (and the fault codes upon RP are saying it's open), then why would it throw up RP? I could understand it if they were supposed to be open but were stuck closed, but the fault codes and the fact that the DPF is filling up quickly suggests that they are open, if indeed that is what is actually happening.
DPF not regenerating? (Finally solved - or is it?!)
OK here goes. I am a member of another forum but can't get a reply to this so any input would be appreciated. I'm not looking for a guaranteed fix (though that would be nice!)
Long story so I'll try and keep it as short (as I can).
History: I bought a 2009 (MY10) XF 3.0d last June. This was my first diesel car and when I collected it, it had the amber DPF Full warning light lit. The dealer said it had just been stood and needed a run for around half an hour. The car was low mileage (52k) and the previous 2 owners had both only done around 3,000 miles each over a 2 year period (so 6k in 4 years), and overall it looked like a decent buy.
The 35 mile trip home (part 50mph A road, part motorway) didn't clear the DPF warning and it took around 120 motorway miles to eventually clear it.
Now I do quite a few 1 to 4 mile short journeys totalling around 20 miles a week and was advised to take it on a run of 30 miles or so once a month, which I did. I found the DPF warning coming on roughly once every 5-6 weeks which I assumed was normal. It generally took between 30-60 miles on the motorway to clear it.
But I did have another issue: When booting it, it would go into limp mode, seemingly when the turbo kicked in, and the "Service due" light would come on although the car had been serviced previously not that long ago. After a bit of research and getting a diag check, everything pointed to either a turbo problem or DPF filter. I took it in to a DPF specialist (ukdpf.co.uk in Blackpool) and he said the DPF filter was full and needed removing and cleaning. This was done, along with an oil and filter change and following that everything was fine and the faults and limp mode cleared, plus I had more power than I'd had before so it was obvious it had been blocked up. Of course, not having driven before it was well on it's way to being clogged up I had no point of reference so couldn't tell there was a potential problem.
Since then it's been absolutely fine until a couple of weeks ago when the amber DPF Full warning came on again. I thought this was a bit odd because the previous weekend we'd been over to Yorkshire on a back-road run, fast and quiet. In fact for the past few weekends we'd been out and about, including motorway runs of 40-60 miles each way. Whereas in the winter I never really left town, just using it for short journeys - so why would I get the warning now rather than in the winter months?
Anyway, the next weekend we went out on another 45 miles motorway run (Blackpool to Carnforth) which cleared the warning, came back via the quieter A roads. Few stops (traffic lights etc.), no hold ups or slow or standing traffic, I try to plan most journeys along similar routes at quiet times if I can.
Then within a few days and around 20 miles of local driving the warning came back on. A 60 mile round trip on the motorway has failed to clear it this time.
I've done a diag with an iCarsoft LR v2 that I bought, and it throws up just one fault code:
P2459 - DPF Regeneration Frequency error.
The only other things of note are an "oil quality dilution factor" reading of 6.04 "inferred", and when setting up the iCarsoft unit to do a manual forced regen (just to get a reading), it showed a soot level of 3329.08 grams.
Given that it won't start a regen if the figure is over 60 grams, 3329 grams seems absurd. Could it really be that high? since the DPF filter was cleaned about 6 months ago I've only done circa. 2000 miles with an estimated 400-500 of that (probably less rather than more) being local journeys, and a run of at least 30 miles on the motorway at around 60-70 on most weeks.
Now I know that some say it shouldn't be used for short journeys but surely it should be able to cope with that in between runs? What I find odd is that it still seems to drive perfectly well, acceleration is as potent as ever and there's no black smoke at the back .It is going back in to the DPF guy on Thursday but I'm just puzzled by the readings, I don't do excessive short journeys (in my opinion) and having already had the DPF removed and cleaned not that long ago, it doesn't make any sense. Any ideas? And thanks if you made it this far!
Long story so I'll try and keep it as short (as I can).
History: I bought a 2009 (MY10) XF 3.0d last June. This was my first diesel car and when I collected it, it had the amber DPF Full warning light lit. The dealer said it had just been stood and needed a run for around half an hour. The car was low mileage (52k) and the previous 2 owners had both only done around 3,000 miles each over a 2 year period (so 6k in 4 years), and overall it looked like a decent buy.
The 35 mile trip home (part 50mph A road, part motorway) didn't clear the DPF warning and it took around 120 motorway miles to eventually clear it.
Now I do quite a few 1 to 4 mile short journeys totalling around 20 miles a week and was advised to take it on a run of 30 miles or so once a month, which I did. I found the DPF warning coming on roughly once every 5-6 weeks which I assumed was normal. It generally took between 30-60 miles on the motorway to clear it.
But I did have another issue: When booting it, it would go into limp mode, seemingly when the turbo kicked in, and the "Service due" light would come on although the car had been serviced previously not that long ago. After a bit of research and getting a diag check, everything pointed to either a turbo problem or DPF filter. I took it in to a DPF specialist (ukdpf.co.uk in Blackpool) and he said the DPF filter was full and needed removing and cleaning. This was done, along with an oil and filter change and following that everything was fine and the faults and limp mode cleared, plus I had more power than I'd had before so it was obvious it had been blocked up. Of course, not having driven before it was well on it's way to being clogged up I had no point of reference so couldn't tell there was a potential problem.
Since then it's been absolutely fine until a couple of weeks ago when the amber DPF Full warning came on again. I thought this was a bit odd because the previous weekend we'd been over to Yorkshire on a back-road run, fast and quiet. In fact for the past few weekends we'd been out and about, including motorway runs of 40-60 miles each way. Whereas in the winter I never really left town, just using it for short journeys - so why would I get the warning now rather than in the winter months?
Anyway, the next weekend we went out on another 45 miles motorway run (Blackpool to Carnforth) which cleared the warning, came back via the quieter A roads. Few stops (traffic lights etc.), no hold ups or slow or standing traffic, I try to plan most journeys along similar routes at quiet times if I can.
Then within a few days and around 20 miles of local driving the warning came back on. A 60 mile round trip on the motorway has failed to clear it this time.
I've done a diag with an iCarsoft LR v2 that I bought, and it throws up just one fault code:
P2459 - DPF Regeneration Frequency error.
The only other things of note are an "oil quality dilution factor" reading of 6.04 "inferred", and when setting up the iCarsoft unit to do a manual forced regen (just to get a reading), it showed a soot level of 3329.08 grams.
Given that it won't start a regen if the figure is over 60 grams, 3329 grams seems absurd. Could it really be that high? since the DPF filter was cleaned about 6 months ago I've only done circa. 2000 miles with an estimated 400-500 of that (probably less rather than more) being local journeys, and a run of at least 30 miles on the motorway at around 60-70 on most weeks.
Now I know that some say it shouldn't be used for short journeys but surely it should be able to cope with that in between runs? What I find odd is that it still seems to drive perfectly well, acceleration is as potent as ever and there's no black smoke at the back .It is going back in to the DPF guy on Thursday but I'm just puzzled by the readings, I don't do excessive short journeys (in my opinion) and having already had the DPF removed and cleaned not that long ago, it doesn't make any sense. Any ideas? And thanks if you made it this far!
121 - 140 of 300 Posts
That's actually starting to sound more likely. The fault codes could be misleading me into thinking it's the turbo or actuator, but physical checks say it isn't.After reading the first few words I thought this was going to be a tale of marital disharmony and pending divorce.
My take on the problem: there's a leak in the induction pipework causing a fuel/air mismatch . . . sometimes. Also, if there's too much or too little fuel being injected this may be the reason for the DPF being constantly fuel.
I had an issue several years ago where a pipe was split. but it was only a problem under high pressure. At slow speeds it couldn't be detected.
Yes, I'm very wary that all these regens are not ideal. I changed the oil and filter last week and noted it was reading around 75% on the dash. That hasn't changed as yet, although both a failed and forced regens are going to pump more fuel into the system. At least with a forced regen most of the fuel is being used, but I'm going to leave it for a day or two now, just check the levels before each journey.Worth keeping a close eye on oil levels with all these regens, especially if there's any suspicion that they may not be functioning/completing properly.
I got the point where I was doing a regen once a week, but I was also aware of a strange idling noise from deep within the engine bay that got progressively louder despite at one point doing an oil change every month and the oil did not look healthy. I got both the local Jag indy garage as well as a very experience motor engineer to listen to it and they both suspected the crank was heading towards its doom. I'd be wary of doing too many forced regens.
Part of the mystery here is there are no symptoms and no fault readings until I get the RP issue. No smoke, no loss of power, smooth idling, smooth acceleration, no lag, nothing. Oil I took out looked clean (although it had only done 3k).
I wouldn't be so concerned if it wasn't for the DPF filling up, but I'm not sure where to take it next. Local indy are no cheaper than the main dealers, booked up for 6 weeks, and not that local. But the current garage's advice to change the DPF doesn't make sense to me. It could be faulty but it's highly unlikely. That wouldn't make it fill up quickly unless there was a permanent blockage in it perhaps, but I would have thought that would show up when they removed it and cleaned it out (twice).
Just one other thing crossed my mind when watching one of those "how it works" videos last night. Is the bypass valve the same actuator that's attached to the 2nd turbo, or is it a separate component? If the latter, then that could be (and probably is) the one that's stuck open and not the gate on the turbo.
The car expects it to be closed <2800 RPM so when it signals to it to open it's found it to be open already, conversely when the revs drop it should signal to close to the home position and will check to see if it has, either of these events will trigger a RP IMHOYes of course, but that's the point. If it should be open, which obviously it should as the turbo is boosting (and the fault codes upon RP are saying it's open), then why would it throw up RP? I could understand it if they were supposed to be open but were stuck closed, but the fault codes and the fact that the DPF is filling up quickly suggests that they are open, if indeed that is what is actually happening.
P22D2 workshop manual says
| P22D2-77 | Turbocharger Turbine Inlet Valve Stuck Open - Commanded position not reachable |
|
|
Yes, I understand the logic. I've assumed that the opposite is true, that if the car wants it to be open and finds that it already is, it's not going to have an issue with that but I could be wrong of course; it would be good to know for sure one way or the other.The car expects it to be closed <2800 RPM so when it signals to it to open it's found it to be open already, conversely when the revs drop it should signal to close to the home position and will check to see if it has, either of these events will trigger a RP IMHO
"When the revs drop" doesn't apply in this case, it's always on acceleration it kicks in, never on deceleration.
The problem is we can't find anything wrong with the actuator, the vacuum lines or anything else. I'm going to order the actuator now and get that changed, if it is intermittent then that could resolve the problem. I'd just like to be sure that's also what is causing the DPF to fill up and/or not regenerate, which is the main problem. I've got plenty of power even without the 2nd turbo 90% of the time, but If it is stuck open why isn't that having an effect on performance sub-3000 revs, or throwing up any fault codes until it hits 3k? I'm just trying to understand what's happening and why.
A bit more frustration today, as the actuator I've ordered wasn't delivered to the Jaguar dealer so although I'll get it tomorrow, To the Jaguar dealer's credit they did call me just after 8 a.m. to let me know, saving a wasted journey, but I'll now need to rebook the car in to have it installed, and the garage doing the job are closed for holidays for the next couple of weeks.The car expects it to be closed <2800 RPM so when it signals to it to open it's found it to be open already, conversely when the revs drop it should signal to close to the home position and will check to see if it has, either of these events will trigger a RP IMHO
I keep coming back to this for some reason. Something else that has occurred to me as a little odd is that once the car has been turned off for a couple of minutes, the system resets and the RP warning clears itself. That suggests that the valve must have closed - otherwise you'd expect another fault to occur more or less straight away for the opposite reason, that it's open when it should be closed.
So if it closes (when the car is turned off), it can't be sticking open.
I see that the Autel device shows a whole raft of readings for the various valves (EGR, Turbo etc), in fact there are 8 settings for each, for example:
| Turbocharger Valve Offset Values - 1st Learnt, Opening Edge |
| Turbocharger Valve Offset Values - Last Learnt, Closing Edge |
| Turbocharger Valve Offset Values - Last Learnt, Opening Edge |
| Turbocharger Valve Offset Values - 1st Learnt Offset |
| Turbocharger Valve Offset Values - 1st Learnt, Minimal |
| Turbocharger Valve Offset Values - Last Learnt, Offset |
| Turbocharger Valve Offset Values - Last Learnt, Minimal |
| Turbocharger Valve Offset Values - 1st Learnt, Closing Edge |
I'll take some live readings and see if that throws up any clues, although to be honest I'm more concerned about why the DPF value won't drop below 20g on a forced regen, which I think may be a separate problem.
Why I think the sticking actuator problem doesn't (directly) cause the Restricted Performance at 3k revs problem.
OK no real movement as the mechanic has been on holiday and I've been unwell since so cannot get the car in for another week. Nothing untoward in the temp readings and the oil level hasn't changed since I did the oil change, off the top of my head round about 600-700 miles ago.
I've noticed that many of those who have had the RP fault at 3000+ revs problem for some time ALSO have DPF problems, as I do. I've done a lot of reading up on the system, especially the workshop manual, and I do have a theory now about this DPF blocking and RP issue.
Up until now the general assumption seems to be that the classic "sticking actuator on the 2nd turbo" problem is what's causing these to go into RP mode over 3000 rpm. I don't think it is - not directly anyway.
What I think happens is the valve/actuator sticks open, and starts to quickly fill up the DPF. It gets to the point where the DPF won't generate properly, because the sensors are reading that the pressures are all wrong, hence the DPF continues to fill up and won't regenerate as it should.
I think that the DPF eventually becomes blocked and it's this blockage, and the excessive back pressures it creates, NOT the sticking actuator, that is causing the RP problem. The blockage is causing back pressure, so the car puts the engine into limp mode to protect it.
In other words, the sticking actuator is causing the DPF to fill up and it's the full DPF that is then causing the RP problem. Part of the reason I come to this conclusion is because when the DPF has been cleaned the RP problem disappears (for a while at least), and only comes back later when the DPF starts to fill up again.
Just to recap, In my case I'm not sure if there is a secondary issue as we can't get the DPF soot level to drop below 20 grams (and even getting to that point is difficult and can take hours), but it could be that of the valve is stuck open it's filling the DPF up as fast as the system trying to clear it.
All speculation of course, but I'll know more once I have the actuator replaced. I'm not sure whether to have the DPF removed and cleaned again as it must be nearly full again (last couple of times it's filled up in around 1000 miles, to the point where the amber warning comes on and is difficult to clear, but it might be better - or more informative at least - to see if the DPF will clear itself once the actuator has been swapped out.
If anybody has any more thoughts on this it would be welcome.
OK no real movement as the mechanic has been on holiday and I've been unwell since so cannot get the car in for another week. Nothing untoward in the temp readings and the oil level hasn't changed since I did the oil change, off the top of my head round about 600-700 miles ago.
I've noticed that many of those who have had the RP fault at 3000+ revs problem for some time ALSO have DPF problems, as I do. I've done a lot of reading up on the system, especially the workshop manual, and I do have a theory now about this DPF blocking and RP issue.
Up until now the general assumption seems to be that the classic "sticking actuator on the 2nd turbo" problem is what's causing these to go into RP mode over 3000 rpm. I don't think it is - not directly anyway.
What I think happens is the valve/actuator sticks open, and starts to quickly fill up the DPF. It gets to the point where the DPF won't generate properly, because the sensors are reading that the pressures are all wrong, hence the DPF continues to fill up and won't regenerate as it should.
I think that the DPF eventually becomes blocked and it's this blockage, and the excessive back pressures it creates, NOT the sticking actuator, that is causing the RP problem. The blockage is causing back pressure, so the car puts the engine into limp mode to protect it.
In other words, the sticking actuator is causing the DPF to fill up and it's the full DPF that is then causing the RP problem. Part of the reason I come to this conclusion is because when the DPF has been cleaned the RP problem disappears (for a while at least), and only comes back later when the DPF starts to fill up again.
Just to recap, In my case I'm not sure if there is a secondary issue as we can't get the DPF soot level to drop below 20 grams (and even getting to that point is difficult and can take hours), but it could be that of the valve is stuck open it's filling the DPF up as fast as the system trying to clear it.
All speculation of course, but I'll know more once I have the actuator replaced. I'm not sure whether to have the DPF removed and cleaned again as it must be nearly full again (last couple of times it's filled up in around 1000 miles, to the point where the amber warning comes on and is difficult to clear, but it might be better - or more informative at least - to see if the DPF will clear itself once the actuator has been swapped out.
If anybody has any more thoughts on this it would be welcome.
Interesting development today. I booted it on a short local run as soon as I got the chance, and the RP fault appeared again. This now happens more or less straight away, every time, and I suspect it's because the DPF is now getting full again and creating back pressure (see previous post).The car expects it to be closed <2800 RPM so when it signals to it to open it's found it to be open already, conversely when the revs drop it should signal to close to the home position and will check to see if it has, either of these events will trigger a RP IMHO
However there was a big difference this time - for the first time ever, the RP fault kicked in as the car was DEcelerating. I got up to 4k and thought I'd got away with it, that it wasn't going to happen, but as I slowed down for traffic lights ahead the revs were down to around 2k when it happened. That's definitely a first, it's always happened on accelerating and I could never understand why, if a valve is stuck open, it wouldn't throw a fault on deceleration, i.e. when it should be closing but is staying open.
This means more than ever that it's almost certainly a sticking valve. Goes in on Wednesday to have the CSOV valve swapped out, and I'm going to have the DPF cleaned again too so we'll know more once that has been done.
It has always occurred to me that you would get a DPF full message before or coincidentally with the RP if it was the DPF causing the RP.I think you've assessed the problem correctly. The secondary turbo valve actuator is a known issue and subject to sticking (due to lack of use is my theory so I make sure it gets used at least once a day).
Replacement is a quick and straightforward job.
I really do believe that the new actuator will cure your RP problem. 🤞
Thanks John, yes I do now too.
The only reservation I had originally was that the mechanic said the one currently fitted was of the newer type, indicating it had probably been changed before, and that he could find no signs of it sticking - but then the Autel 200 diag did show it to be an intermittent fault.
It does seem odd on a car that had only done 54000 miles (when I got it a year or so ago), should have another sticking actuator if a replacement has already been fitted; then again if the previous owner had only been using it for short hops to the shops and back or whatever - and only covering 2000 miles a year suggests he certainly didn't use it for much else - it would now be prone to clogging up if that's how it's spent the past few years.
It's most likely the back pressure caused from the DPF filling up is causing the RP issue, and it has been noticable that it is happening more frequently, which again indicates that the DPF is filling up, the more full it gets the sooner the back pressure builds up, the sooner the RP kicks in. All beginning to make sense.
The only likely alternative, since everything else seems to check out, is a faulty sensor. It still drives and accelerates well but as time goes on I'm noticing more lag when setting off. Hopefully we'll know for sure in a few days' time.
The only reservation I had originally was that the mechanic said the one currently fitted was of the newer type, indicating it had probably been changed before, and that he could find no signs of it sticking - but then the Autel 200 diag did show it to be an intermittent fault.
It does seem odd on a car that had only done 54000 miles (when I got it a year or so ago), should have another sticking actuator if a replacement has already been fitted; then again if the previous owner had only been using it for short hops to the shops and back or whatever - and only covering 2000 miles a year suggests he certainly didn't use it for much else - it would now be prone to clogging up if that's how it's spent the past few years.
It's most likely the back pressure caused from the DPF filling up is causing the RP issue, and it has been noticable that it is happening more frequently, which again indicates that the DPF is filling up, the more full it gets the sooner the back pressure builds up, the sooner the RP kicks in. All beginning to make sense.
The only likely alternative, since everything else seems to check out, is a faulty sensor. It still drives and accelerates well but as time goes on I'm noticing more lag when setting off. Hopefully we'll know for sure in a few days' time.
I’ve been a good boy recently and have not used sport or dynamic mode on my XFS 3.0. I would get amber DPF full without failure every week or 2 weeks if it was feeling generous. Since not putting the car into sport mode and taking it easier in the throttle, same journeys, same routes, I’ve not had the DPF message pop up in 3, almost 4 weeks now. I’m going to behave for a few more weeks and see how it looks. I’ll then throw it into sport on some stretches and evening trips and see how long it takes for DPF full, too many DPF regens ( frequency) message.
Yes it's a fine balance as the more you accelerate, the more soot you're producing. This is why I don't understand those who advocate running at high revs in a low gear to regen the DPF. To my mind, all that does is fill it up faster.
I am honestly surprised it was to this extent though. It’s not like I’m constantly in sport or dynamic. When in sport or dynamic I can constantly hear the turbos, is this normal? They are instantly available, I’m talking like no delay whatsoever to put you in the back seat. Turn off dynamic and sport and she’s as tame as can be. I’ve never driven another 3.0D so do not know what is normal and thinking that perhaps it has been mapped.Yes it's a fine balance as the more you accelerate, the more soot you're producing. This is why I don't understand those who advocate running at high revs in a low gear to regen the DPF. To my mind, all that does is fill it up faster.
Difficult to say to be honest. I can hear the 2nd turbo but have never really noticed the initial one. That said, my hearing's not what it once was.
The car certainly shifts when you switch from normal mode for sure, but it's my first diesel so I have no point of reference. What did surprise me was my last car was a 2.3L petrol, but had the same 240bhp, yet was nowhere near this quick.
The only other diesel I've driven (apart from commercial vehicles) was a BMW 530d. That was a few years ago but I don't remember it being particularly quick. A mate of mine drove the Jag a couple of months back and he's driven all sorts of cars. He recently had a Lexus 300h (2.5L I think) and he says the XF blows it out of the water.
The car certainly shifts when you switch from normal mode for sure, but it's my first diesel so I have no point of reference. What did surprise me was my last car was a 2.3L petrol, but had the same 240bhp, yet was nowhere near this quick.
The only other diesel I've driven (apart from commercial vehicles) was a BMW 530d. That was a few years ago but I don't remember it being particularly quick. A mate of mine drove the Jag a couple of months back and he's driven all sorts of cars. He recently had a Lexus 300h (2.5L I think) and he says the XF blows it out of the water.
interesting. I also only have limited reference cars, the closest being a 2.0 A5 Quattro, 177bhp and a lot of hire cars with 1.2 engines lol.Difficult to say to be honest. I can hear the 2nd turbo but have never really noticed the initial one. That said, my hearing's not what it once was.
The car certainly shifts when you switch from normal mode for sure, but it's my first diesel so I have no point of reference. What did surprise me was my last car was a 2.3L petrol, but had the same 240bhp, yet was nowhere near this quick.
The only other diesel I've driven (apart from commercial vehicles) was a BMW 530d. That was a few years ago but I don't remember it being particularly quick. A mate of mine drove the Jag a couple of months back and he's driven all sorts of cars. He recently had a Lexus 300h (2.5L I think) and he says the XF blows it out of the water.
I’ll keep the XF 3.0 275hp in drive for another week or so, read the codes and regen count and ofcourse enter the compulsory sport and dynamic sessions.
Hope your DPF issues get sorted after its visit!
Ah, you have the more powerful version. Mine is 240bhp. I shouldn't imagine there's too much difference though.
Just on the way to the garage with mine now, as soon as I've necked this cup of tea, so we'll know in a couple of days.
Just on the way to the garage with mine now, as soon as I've necked this cup of tea, so we'll know in a couple of days.
I was thinking about this a bit more, and it would also explain why the RP fault clears itself when you stop the car for a couple of minutes. Could it be that the actuator isn't actually stuck per se, but is sticking to the point where it isn't closing fast enough, hence the RP error kicking in?Why I think the sticking actuator problem doesn't (directly) cause the Restricted Performance at 3k revs problem.
I do have a theory now about this DPF blocking and RP issue.
Up until now the general assumption seems to be that the classic "sticking actuator on the 2nd turbo" problem is what's causing these to go into RP mode over 3000 rpm. I don't think it is - not directly anyway.
What I think happens is the valve/actuator sticks open, and starts to quickly fill up the DPF. It gets to the point where the DPF won't generate properly, because the sensors are reading that the pressures are all wrong, hence the DPF continues to fill up and won't regenerate as it should.
I think that the DPF eventually becomes blocked and it's this blockage, and the excessive back pressures it creates, NOT the sticking actuator, that is causing the RP problem. The blockage is causing back pressure, so the car puts the engine into limp mode to protect it.
In other words, the sticking actuator is causing the DPF to fill up and it's the full DPF that is then causing the RP problem. Part of the reason I come to this conclusion is because when the DPF has been cleaned the RP problem disappears (for a while at least), and only comes back later when the DPF starts to fill up again.
I noticed it takes quite some force to move the arm on the actuator, so it's probably continuing to try and close even if it's sticking, and eventually manages to do so. Too late to prevent the RP triggering, but enough to clear the error when you restart the car.
The more I think about this and put it all together, the more it all fits. There's still the issue that no amount of regenerating the DPF won't get the soot level below 20g though, so there could still be something else at play here.
I've just dropped the car off now, all I can do is see what happens when I get it back.
OK so now I'm baffled. This is the actuator I bought, which seems to be the "favourite" one for going rogue. But the garage have just rung me, they said they have checked both turbos and there is nothing like this one on my car.
The left side one has an electronic one, and on the right side there is an actuator but it's completely different, with a sensor containing a float needle fixed to it.
I've asked if he can get photos, but does anybody have any clue about this? Not just the one I'm going to need, but why this one isn't on my car.
The left side one has an electronic one, and on the right side there is an actuator but it's completely different, with a sensor containing a float needle fixed to it.
I've asked if he can get photos, but does anybody have any clue about this? Not just the one I'm going to need, but why this one isn't on my car.
Your photo is the secondary turbo VALVE actuator - located at the front of the engine. Not a turbo actuator.
And yes, it is this that is prone to sticking.
And yes, it is this that is prone to sticking.
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