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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Got the other rear shock absorber bush fitted.
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Needed a bit of inventiveness but got there in the end.

Looking at the old "bushes", they're not actually bushes. I don't know the technical name, spherical joint? Dunno. Inside, there's a spherical part, held in place by a correspondingly shaped nylon cup each side. The point of the joint, I'm going to call it, is to allow the retaining bolt to pass through but also allow for some limited movement of the shock absorber in certain planes. There was also zero play in the old ones. Yes, they could move freely but there was no play at all in either, the MOT technician was a bit overzealous to list advisories for both rear shock absorber lower mounting bushes as "slightly worn". Changed now anyway.
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I need to do those on mine for the same reason.


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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Bit of a pig to change. You can use a socket to push them out but not to support the eye to push them out in to, hence I bought the bush and bearing removal kit. I still needed to grind one of the rings down so it could sit central. To push the new bush/joint in, I bought off Ebay a sleeve bearing from China that was just the right size to go over the central rubber boot but also sit on the outer part and not cause any damage. It's quite soft and only just survived doing the two.

Ebay: Sleeve (Plain) Bearings 35mm Bore 39mm OD 50mm Length Wrapped Oilless Bushings

I'm happy to lend the bearing removal ring I ground down should anyone else wish to do this job, just PM me your address. You'll need your own thingie for actually pushing the old one out and pushing the new one in. I wouldn't risk trying to push/pull on the central insert, I'd bet the joint would disintegrate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Had the car on the lift in order to change the air filters for the pair of BMC filters I bought a while ago (Italian version of K&N). This is also a bit of a pain job as the front wheels have to come off and the wheel arch liners removed. While in there, thought I'd remove the MAFs to spray some cleaner on them - yet another pain to get them out! Left side done, moved onto the right side to find the air filter box has split open along the weld, essentially it was split in half. Quick check, a new one is £530 as it comes with the MAF, not paying that if I can avoid it. The flange around the 2 halves looked beefy enough, so I drilled and riveted it back together, job done.
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Lucky fix Alan.

What make is your lift again?
Considering something similar for myself. I'd really like a 4 post but can't justify the outlay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Twin Busch, model TW S3-10 E. It's German made and solid. It's not exactly cheap at £1999 including VAT but excluding delivery. You'll also need the mobile kit if you want to move it, another £179, plus some rubber pads.
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My old Mini on it, the lift is plenty big enough for the XFS. The ends of the ramp can be locked up to make it longer.
 
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Thanks Alan. It was one of their 4 posters I was considering, so it good to hear this lift seems every bit as good quality.
 

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Might have to invest in something like this myself, laying on a cold concrete floor under a car isn't as attractive a prospec tas it once might have been. And Buttercup does need her undercarriage seen to regularly..............Ooooh. (beat you Dave)
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
My lift came with the house :) Just needed a little negotiation. And £1,000.
 
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Does it have automatic safety interlocks, so in the event of a hydraulic pressure loss it won't uncontrollably descend?
 
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Just wanted to say thanks for the wee run you took me out on in your XKR :)

The new exhaust sounds fantastic, more so when quickly downshifting at junctions and through tunnels:love:

All in all, a very very nice and very potent car!!
 
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Does it have automatic safety interlocks, so in the event of a hydraulic pressure loss it won't uncontrollably descend?
My friend has an Automech that needs an airline attached for the interlocks. You have to raise the lift a little and press the button to release them I think. He buried his in the ground so very low cars could get on it.




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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Just wanted to say thanks for the wee run you took me out on in your XKR :)

The new exhaust sounds fantastic, more so when quickly downshifting at junctions and through tunnels:love:

All in all, a very very nice and very potent car!!
Like I need an excuse to take the XKR out! I'm very happy with the new exhaust too, it is exactly how I wanted it to sound, a bit louder than stock but not too racious. With the roads damp and of course traffic, also it being dark, I was being a little conservative with the throttle, still the back end was breaking away occasionally, only gently mind, and the "nannies" would bring it all back under control in a very predictable manor, so long as the driver doesn't panic! A warm day, no traffic and a suitable unrestricted twisty road, the drive can be a little different! With dry and warm roads it takes much more effort to make the MP4S's break away, and I'm happy to drive in those conditions with the traction control one stage off, any back end sliding can more easily be maintained with the throttle but the car nannies (in theory) won't let it get too wild. I could do with a couple of track sessions so I can really get to know how the car handles at proper speed.

The engine is stock, so 503BHP (510PS), I'm planning a supercharger pulley change and a remap at some stage.
 
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
My friend has an Automech that needs an airline attached for the interlocks. You have to raise the lift a little and press the button to release them I think. He buried his in the ground so very low cars could get on it.
The safety interlocks on my Twin Busch are automatic, they release when you hold the lift down button and the ramp raises a little first to ensure they're unlatched before it will descend.
 

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Does it have automatic safety interlocks, so in the event of a hydraulic pressure loss it won't uncontrollably descend?
Yes and all controls are at 24v
 

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My friend has an Automech that needs an airline attached for the interlocks. You have to raise the lift a little and press the button to release them I think. He buried his in the ground so very low cars could get on it.




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That is the in ground version Chris
 

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That is the in ground version Chris
It could be both. He has the parts to convert it.


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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Received my spare steering wheel back from Royal. Slightly thicker, add thumb grips, perforated leather to sides, smooth to top and bottom. I initially didn't ask for the thumb grips as Royal said that'd destroy the heating function. But they rung me and said they could add them and try to keep the heating functional. Hopefully it still works, I've checked continuity and the circuits appear intact. Now to get it fitted.
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That's good they are even considering the heating option. I really don't see why all these steering wheel companies struggle with it. Control Custom Wheels did mine and sent me photos of the process. The heating function is a separate layer of material with the "element" (a thin copper wire) embedded onto. So if you make the wheel thicker and add thumb grips you just have to lay it back on wheel once it's modified. You just have to bare in mind as the wheel is a slightly different shape and thickness, it might not reach all the way around the rim as before.

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