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I think there's a couple FMs had this same issue in the same place now.
 

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Having my AC topped up on Friday after noticing the icy blast was less so when stationary. I hope it is only this and not the DPS valve issue which I think the extended warranty will cover. Well, it did on my XF.
 

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MY 2012 XF S Portfolio Ultimate Black
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Having my AC topped up on Friday after noticing the icy blast was less so when stationary. I hope it is only this and not the DPS valve issue which I think the extended warranty will cover. Well, it did on my XF.
How much gas did it take and when was last time it was topped up?
 

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Having my AC topped up on Friday after noticing the icy blast was less so when stationary. I hope it is only this and not the DPS valve issue which I think the extended warranty will cover. Well, it did on my XF.
First thing I noticed when my dps valve was faulty was the windows misting up as soon as I stopped.

It also took ages for the air to get cold on a warm day.



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How much gas did it take and when was last time it was topped up?
It's being done on Friday morning so will report back. The car is now 6 years old and I've owned it for 3 of those and I doubt it has ever been topped up.
First thing I noticed when my dps valve was faulty was the windows misting up as soon as I stopped.

It also took ages for the air to get cold on a warm day.
Yes, I remember the same happening with my XF. The difference now is that it does get cold first thing but then starts to get warmer when I stop after driving for a while. Suggests (I hope) that there's insufficient gas circulating.
 

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Had my XFS air con repaired under extended warranty. An area where leakage can occur is the a/c pipes run through a sponge grommet in the n/s front bumper area. Causes the pipes to corrode. Think there was a service bulletin for the issue.
They all go there. If they ain't gone yet they will, just a matter of time. If they ain't gone yet it may be worth giving them a clean and some paint, I did just that. but after the event.
 

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It's being done on Friday morning so will report back. The car is now 6 years old and I've owned it for 3 of those and I doubt it has ever been topped up.

Yes, I remember the same happening with my XF. The difference now is that it does get cold first thing but then starts to get warmer when I stop after driving for a while. Suggests (I hope) that there's insufficient gas circulating.
The recommended time ( by the regas people) is every 2 years, so you have done well. I think that is a bit over the top though.
 

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MY 2012 XF S Portfolio Ultimate Black
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It's being done on Friday morning so will report back. The car is now 6 years old and I've owned it for 3 of those and I doubt it has ever been topped up.

Yes, I remember the same happening with my XF. The difference now is that it does get cold first thing but then starts to get warmer when I stop after driving for a while. Suggests (I hope) that there's insufficient gas circulating.
That shouldn’t be dps then. First sign of faulty dps is that car does “not” need any top up but AC doesn’t work as it should.
 

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That shouldn’t be dps then. First sign of faulty dps is that car does “not” need any top up but AC doesn’t work as it should.
I'm not so sure Hamed.

I initially had mine topped up and things were good for a few weeks then all the symptoms returned.

Maybe mine was low on gas and had a faulty dps valve?

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Just had my iCarsoft plugged in to look at the AC module.
AC system pressure never went over 3000kPa but I don't know what it SHOULD be.
The compressor clutch kept cutting in and out even though I had the target temp set to "Lo".
Evaporator temperature never went below 25C (external temp reading 34C (in the sun)). This clearly is not right.

If it turns out the gas doesn't need topping up, I shall get it booked in at Listers to check the DPS valve.
 

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🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿X260 R-Sport in Aurora Red
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3MPa sounds heathy John I know a different system, but mines peaked a 1.3MPa after a run and around 700kPa overnight with engine off. SSD suggested it should be more than this but it works ok.
 

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My running figures are similar to Gav’s. I think iCarsoft figure is not calibrated. 3000kpa is very high. AC will disengage the clutch if that happens and because your ac is working, I would question icarsoft. The correct pressure in high pressure side that you are reading should be between 1100kpa to 1500kpa according to workshop manual. If 3000kpa was right that I highly doubt, it could mean a blockage in system that is again unlikely.
 

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I'm not so sure Hamed.

I initially had mine topped up and things were good for a few weeks then all the symptoms returned.

Maybe mine was low on gas and had a faulty dps valve?

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Unfortunately that is like what mine was and it was due to a “slow” leakage on low pressure side. If you could read the pressure, you can confirm if it is leakage or dps. If pressure is correct, dps is at fault. Otherwise you have a leakage.
 

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Unfortunately that is like what mine was and it was due to a “slow” leakage on low pressure side. If you could read the pressure, you can confirm if it is leakage or dps. If pressure is correct, dps is at fault. Otherwise you have a leakage.
Mine was re-gassed about a year ago and the dps valve replaced 3 weeks later I think.

Everything has been fine since.

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Mine was re-gassed about a year ago and the dps valve replaced 3 weeks later I think.

Everything has been fine since.

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Yes, it’s what I meant. AC wasn’t warm enough after top up. That means a blockage of refrigerant flow and most likely one is dps valve. So if there isn’t enough gas it’s difficult to say dps is faulty.
 

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I'm thinking more and more it is the solenoid/DPS valve. Once I'm moving, the air becomes icy cold obviously because the condenser starts working. But when I stop, the compressor soon stops and that distinctive wet-evaporator smell wafts in. And I suspect it stops because the pressure gets too high because the DPS valve isn't operating.
I'm still hoping it is low gas but suspecting the valve. Friday will tell.

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The 260 will have a different refrigerant, so the pressure may be different, the pressure will vary with outside temp don't forget. From 2017 the refrigerant should be R1234yf not sure of the pressure on this.
I'm thinking more and more it is the solenoid/DPS valve. Once I'm moving, the air becomes icy cold obviously because the condenser starts working. But when I stop, the compressor soon stops and that distinctive wet-evaporator smell wafts in. And I suspect it stops because the pressure gets too high because the DPS valve isn't operating.
I'm still hoping it is low gas but suspecting the valve. Friday will tell.

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I assume John that the stop start is off. If it is on it will do just that
 

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I'm thinking more and more it is the solenoid/DPS valve. Once I'm moving, the air becomes icy cold obviously because the condenser starts working. But when I stop, the compressor soon stops and that distinctive wet-evaporator smell wafts in. And I suspect it stops because the pressure gets too high because the DPS valve isn't operating.
I'm still hoping it is low gas but suspecting the valve. Friday will tell.

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I understand the logic but low gas will have a very similar effect. Besides I consider dps valve change a diy job after checking mine. The only point is preserving the gas for environmental impact.
 

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The 260 will have a different refrigerant, so the pressure may be different, the pressure will vary with outside temp don't forget. From 2017 the refrigerant should be R1234yf not sure of the pressure on this.

I assume John that the stop start is off. If it is on it will do just that
I don't have it turned off but certainly today it wasn't kicking in.
 

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I understand the logic but low gas will have a very similar effect. Besides I consider dps valve change a diy job after checking mine. The only point is preserving the gas for environmental impact.
You've cheered me up a bit Ham, thanks!
I do know it's quite a simple exchange although I'm not sure what has to be removed to get to the compressor. But anyway, I don't have the bits and bobs to degas and then regas. I'm just hoping that if it comes to that then my (f'ing expensive) extended warranty will cover it.
 
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