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I suppose they will have had it in the paint oven to cure the paint, which may have helped temporarily warm/dry the bad connections, which would then go bad again once normal temperature/humidity is resumed. Still it's a good sign that it worked temporarily, as it hopefully indicates there are no failed components or traces on the board in the CJB. With luck if you clean up the CJB and the plugs that connect to it ( probably requires de-pinning the wires one at a time, cleaning and then re-inserting ) with isopropyl alcohol, them re-lubricate them I think Nyogel-760G is the recommend stuff for that, but a spray of Servisol Super 10 or similar is probably quicker, and good enough for indoor connections.

EDIT: you probably need some kind of de-pinning tool, no idea if the correct one will be among these but if you find out please let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 · (Edited)
I suppose they will have had it in the paint oven to cure the paint, which may have helped temporarily warm/dry the bad connections, which would then go bad again once normal temperature/humidity is resumed. Still it's a good sign that it worked temporarily, as it hopefully indicates there are no failed components or traces on the board in the CJB. With luck if you clean up the CJB and the plugs that connect to it ( probably requires de-pinning the wires one at a time, cleaning and then re-inserting ) with isopropyl alcohol, them re-lubricate them I think Nyogel-760G is the recommend stuff for that, but a spray of Servisol Super 10 or similar is probably quicker, and good enough for indoor connections.

EDIT: you probably need some kind of de-pinning tool, no idea if the correct one will be among these but if you find out please let us know.
By the way, the car has never been in the oven!
Just to confirm one thing please, if I disconnect C5 from the CJB, does this needs any kind of programming once putting it back? Also, in case I remove all the wires from that connector, is there any schematic I can rely on to put every wire back in its correct pin please?
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
I have unplugged C5 from the CJB, and here is what I found (please see attached "before", "before 1," and "before 2"). Sorry for the poor quality pictures due to the very tight access.
I have used a brush with isopropanol to clean the connector, but I don't think that is sufficient for a proper connection (please see after cleaning and after cleaning 1)
Is there a way that I can get better access such as by removing the trim or any other option please?
PS: During the past couple of days, sometimes the AC works with air vent rotation (apart from one) and temp. sensor, next day only the external temp. sensor. Today, the ac starts to blow then stop, then start and stop again, and now I can see why that is happening! 😓
 

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🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿X260 R-Sport in Aurora Red
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see post #2 when I said check for water ingress and see the how to on here, I see you didn't :(
 
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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
see post #2 when I said check for water ingress and see the how to on here, I see you didn't :(
@Gav I took that into my consideration, but unfortunately, I don't have always access to the vehicle as I commute to the workplace to stay there during the weekdays and return back home on weekends, so I'm using another car instead, plus sent the car to some bodywork. That's a reason why it takes me that long to check the connector.
Also, I haven't noticed that initially until you guys pointed to the deposits and copper oxide from the pictures I sent earlier.
 

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see post #2 when I said check for water ingress and see the how to on here, I see you didn't :(
Seems like I'm having deja-vu with your reminder ( ah yes post #108 ) ;)
Indeed you did get there first identifying the fault to look for, as well as other very useful posts along the way, and I'm sure I reiterated to check somewhere along the way with links to some relevant threads about the bcm water ingress, as not everyone has been reading the forum for significant time, and it's easy to miss if you're expecting to see water. But not everyone has the time to read all the links to other threads folk mention etc, and at least W.Dabbas is on the right track now.

Please can you post a link to the howto you mention? ( I've searched the X250 howto section for "water", "cjb", "fsjb", "bcm", and can't seem to find a howto ) hopefully it has info on how to remove the panel mentioned.

I seem to recall reading somewhere, that you had to pull the treadplate straight up to remove it, and maybe pull the door seal off in that area, then lift the edge of the panel covering the CJB at the edge nearest the back of the car slightly, and them pull the panel towards the rear of the car to remove it. Hopefully the howto you mention will clear that up.

@W.Dabbas Oh and if you're going to remove the other CJB connections, don't forget to disconnect the batteries first ( at least the negative ), then wait at least 2 mins for the (airbag) capacitors to discharge before you start disconnecting stuff.
 

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Thanks Gav, I must have been taking it a bit too literally when you said "how to" and was searching exclusively in the HOWTO section thinking I was missing something. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
Guys, is there a way to release this bit (I pointed to it in picture) please!! I am trying to get full access to the CJB. I managed to release the clip near to fuel pedal.
It is a sunny day, so I have only today before the next weekend 😔
 

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Guys, is there a way to release this bit (I pointed to it in picture) please!! I am trying to get full access to the CJB. I managed to release the clip near to fuel pedal.
It is a sunny day, so I have only today before the next weekend 😔
Yes, see my quote below.

I seem to recall reading somewhere, that you had to pull the treadplate straight up to remove it, and maybe pull the door seal off in that area, then lift the edge of the panel covering the CJB at the edge nearest the back of the car slightly, and them pull the panel towards the rear of the car to remove it. Hopefully the howto you mention will clear that up.

@W.Dabbas Oh and if you're going to remove the other CJB connections, don't forget to disconnect the batteries first ( at least the negative ), then wait at least 2 mins for the (airbag) capacitors to discharge before you start disconnecting stuff.
P.S. you might need plastic trim tools to pry the treadplate straight up ( depends how good your grip is I guess ), so the metal plate on it doesn't end up permanently bent ( I'm sure I read someone did that on the forum somewhere )

Edit: see steps 2 and 3 in the PDF linked in this post
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
Just an update, I managed to take the CJB out, cleaned the socket connecter as much as possible, and checked the continuity between the pins and pin's solder at the back of the PCB board.
Product Audio equipment Gadget Machine Font


Unfortunately, pin number 20 is missing, which means it's broken inside the wire's crimp because of the rust 😓
Font Rectangle Gas Wood Automotive wheel system


Pin 20 has Brown-Red wire, which due to the electrical wiring should be for either "Diagnostic connector" or "Module-climate control"! In the plug-in connector, I have only one brown-red wire, which's for the climate control obviously as it's not working
Rectangle Parallel Font Number

Electrical wiring Circuit component Finger Thumb Cable

I have extracted all the wires and cleaned them. I found the broken pin inside the wire's crimp.

Tomorrow, I am planning to solder a piece of wire at the back of the board, and make a direct connection to the wire bypassing the connector and the socket. Hope this will fix the issue 🙏
Water Wood Circuit component Terrestrial plant Gas
 

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Unfortunately, pin number 20 is missing, which means it's broken inside the wire's crimp because of the rust 😓

Tomorrow, I am planning to solder a piece of wire at the back of the board, and make a direct connection to the wire bypassing the connector and the socket. Hope this will fix the issue 🙏
You won't be the first to do this. Wise to make some sort of plug and socket, even if just a male & female bullet connector to allow disconnection as required. Did you put a water break in the loom from the 2 washer pump wires?
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
You won't be the first to do this. Wise to make some sort of plug and socket, even if just a male & female bullet connector to allow disconnection as required. Did you put a water break in the loom from the 2 washer pump wires?
Would you recommend something like the below?


Also, I will try also to put a water break like the one below, then heat shrink both ends!
Pliers Circuit component Hand tool Nipper Snips
 

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Yep, the bullet connector kit will be just fine. The twin waterproof connecter should do the washer pump fine too. The clear heatshrink is actually a genius idea, if water is still tracking you may have a chance to see it.
 
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Also, I will try also to put a water break like the one below, then heat shrink both ends!
View attachment 189836
I do wonder if they have the same problem as the original jaguar water pump connectors?
i.e. they are sealed from outside water ingress ( rain etc), but seal in water tracking along the wires.

I'm considering using a piece of solid stainless steel wire ( perhaps cut from a stainless steel curtain hook ), and heat shrink butt connectors and just putting some other tubing loosely over to prevent the stainless wires shorting together. ( I really should get around to it soon, given the frequency failures are reported on this forum! )

Did you ever come to a conclusion on if it was the windscreen washer pump, or headlight washer pump that was leaking in your case? ( I think it'd be the first headlight pump failure I've heard of, but if so I'll have to consider waterproofing the wires for both... )
 

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Well done so far W. Hopefully bypassing that pin/connecter will be all that you need for things to work properly again, good luck.
 
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