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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Ok.
It doesn't look like you're loosing comms with any modules on that bus other than the HVAC then.

In that case it looks like "Battery - Power supply service mode diagnostic" is not the BMS reset, as there is one BMS for each battery, and you're only supposed to reset the one(s) for batteries you've replaced ( not just recharged ).

You had a fault code for secondary battery in the image you posted earlier, but as it's no longer present in that latest pic, it doesn't look like it will be related to that.
I executed "Battery replacement", then I ran test dual battery system, verify secondary battery charging, and quiescent current control module, unfortunately, all of them have failed (Please see attached)

You could check the voltage between pin1 ( red wire ) and pin 6 ( black wire ) on the 26 pin connector on the hvac module.
As the can bus passes through the module ( 2 pins in, 2 pins out ) I think you can ignore that, as otherwise a lot more modules wouldn't be able to communicate.
The voltage was around 0.97V to 1 V

If there's been water ingress, there is normally corrosion on the pins on the FSJB, have a look through the other thread I linked above. If voltage is ok at the HVAC module then it's probably the module has failed and nothing to do with the FSJB.
I believe it's DX23-18D493-AC though this ebay listing is for ex23-18D493-AA which appears to be used on newer cars so probably could also be used. The module will need programming with SDD as far as I understand ( and I believe a 50amp 13.4-13.8v power supply is pretty much required while programming, but I'm sure there are others on the forum that have first hand experience of that. )
Attached is picture of "PASSENGER COMPARTMENT FUSE BOX", I couldn't notice any water ingress!
What is the correct voltage that HVAC module should see? As I mentioned above, it is nearly 1V
 

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I don't see a pics of error(s) from battery replacement, dual battery system, verify secondary battery charging, and quiescent current control module, but I see that "Secondary battery" failure is back. Does it tell you to start the engine during those tests? ( I'm guessing so, but otherwise it will expect you to have a power supply connected )

It should be around ~12V ( provided the ignition is on ), you could also check the voltage from the red wire to a convenient point on the body ( if that's 12V then the problem is with a bad negative connection )

When I look at the top left grey connector in your photo of the FSJB, I can see green/blue deposits on the wires / bottom of the connector, and top of the one below, so unless they are somehow artifacts of the photo, it does look like you have water ingress, suggest you have a good look at the thread I linked earlier for which connector to pull out for a better look to see if the pins are corroded.
 

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When I look at the top left grey connector in your photo of the FSJB, I can see green/blue deposits on the wires / bottom of the connector, and top of the one below, so unless they are somehow artifacts of the photo, it does look like you have water ingress, suggest you have a good look at the thread I linked earlier for which connector to pull out for a better look to see if the pins are corroded.
The bottom of the lower left larger grey socket is also showing signs of copper oxide on it's lower edge?
 

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Oh and since you'll probably be in the market for a new washer pump, you might want to take a look at this post. Don't forget to add a waterproof splice though just in case it happens again, there's a bit of discussion on possible waterproof slices over here. All this reminds me I really should add a waterproof splice to my car soon!

I suppose if you're really lucky you might get away with just cleaning up the terminals on the FSJB and the connectors on the cables rather than having to replace the FSJB, and replacing the washer pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
I don't see a pics of error(s) from battery replacement, dual battery system, verify secondary battery charging, and quiescent current control module, but I see that "Secondary battery" failure is back. Does it tell you to start the engine during those tests? ( I'm guessing so, but otherwise it will expect you to have a power supply connected )
The battery replacement process has been done without any issue, but all the other three (dual battery system, verify secondary battery charging, and quiescent current control module) have failed.
Yes, at some point, I have been asked to start the engine.

It should be around ~12V ( provided the ignition is on ), you could also check the voltage from the red wire to a convenient point on the body ( if that's 12V then the problem is with a bad negative connection )
BTW, I was measuring them while the engine is running (not ignition is on)

When I look at the top left grey connector in your photo of the FSJB, I can see green/blue deposits on the wires / bottom of the connector, and top of the one below, so unless they are somehow artifacts of the photo, it does look like you have water ingress, suggest you have a good look at the thread I linked earlier for which connector to pull out for a better look to see if the pins are corroded.
Yes, you are correct. I have just noticed that on the picture 😰
I will read through the link you sent earlier.
 

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The battery replacement process has been done without any issue, but all the other three (dual battery system, verify secondary battery charging, and quiescent current control module) have failed.
Yes, at some point, I have been asked to start the engine.


BTW, I was measuring them while the engine is running (not ignition is on)


Yes, you are correct. I have just noticed that on the picture 😰
I will read through the link you sent earlier.
The tests failing are probably all due to the water ingress, it causes all sorts of havoc, and often requires a new FSJB ( and I think according to Jaguar you can only program it if you fit a new RSJB too, but I'm pretty sure I have read otherwise when reading the forum at some point - perhaps it was RSJB has to be updated to latest firmware before programming the FSJB. ) I think used FSJB modules can't be programmed with SDD either unfortunately :( - though I suppose if it's just that the connectors are corroded, maybe you could buy a used unit, and desolder the connectors, and replace the ones in your unit. Also it may be possible to copy the flash memory from your unit to a used unit using an external programmer.

Yeah just as long as you didn't have everything off ( i.e. whenever you'd expect HVAC to be able to be turned on ), there should be 12V at the HVAC module.

BTW when searching for the forum, FSJB, BCM, and CJB all refer to the same unit!
 

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The tests failing are probably all due to the water ingress, it causes all sorts of havoc, and often requires a new FSJB ( and I think according to Jaguar you can only program it if you fit a new RSJB too, but I'm pretty sure I have read otherwise when reading the forum at some point - perhaps it was RSJB has to be updated to latest firmware before programming the FSJB. ) I think used FSJB modules can't be programmed with SDD either unfortunately :( - though I suppose if it's just that the connectors are corroded, maybe you could buy a used unit, and desolder the connectors, and replace the ones in your unit. Also it may be possible to copy the flash memory from your unit to a used unit using an external programmer.

Yeah just as long as you didn't have everything off ( i.e. whenever you'd expect HVAC to be able to be turned on ), there should be 12V at the HVAC module.

BTW when searching for the forum, FSJB, BCM, and CJB all refer to the same unit!
@Onotole & @MoJo88 have the required kit to reprogram CJB's, pretty sure someone else on here did it for themselves too, can't recall who though.

Onotole told me he can reprogram a second hand one to work in my car if I could find one.
 

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There are quite a lot of post in this this thread so I'm going to be quite general as I haven't read them all.

Seems like CJB/BCM is faulty if it's not putting out 12v. The problem you will have now is finding a used BCM for a 2013 model. A 2013 model should be CX23 or DX23...they're like gold dust. Add to it the BCM variant (-Ax or -Bx). If you want a temporary fix just tap into a local power feed and increase said feeds fuse amp capacity. Then at least you'll be warm whilst waiting to find an appropriate BCM :)

If you choose not to opt for the temporary fix, you should at least supply HVAC with manual power to confirm it works too.
 

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....
The problem you will have now is finding a used BCM for a 2013 model. A 2013 model should be CX23 or DX23...they're like gold dust. Add to it the BCM variant (-Ax or -Bx).
...
Do you happen to know if SDD can program a used BCM? ( which I guess would mean you could use a one from a 2014 or 2015 (x250), as the jaguar part catalogue shows them as superseded. )
Otherwise if you have to clone the unit using an external programmer, am I correct in guessing that would mean you'd need one with an identical part number?
 

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Yes, it can. In either scenario you will need a JTAG programmer.
I see, so you can use a jtag programmer to set the unit back to close enough to original state that SDD will accept it as new. I suppose it seems sensible that that can be done if you have a dump of the pflash and eeprom of a new unit, or maybe it's as simple as repartitioning d-flash to wipe the emulated eeprom.
 

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@W.Dabbas To get this thread back on subject, I was wondering did you get anywhere with MoJo88's suggestion of testing the climate control by feeding it power directly, or by cleaning up the connections on the BCM?
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
Happy new year all
Sorry for the delay in response due to holidays and sent the car to do some bodywork.

What I have done last weekend is:
The water pump of windscreen wipers was alright, but there filter between the washer reservoir and water pump was clogged, so I cleaned it and the wipers start to spray water on the windscreen.
Unfortunately, the headlight water pump seems faulty :( , any suggestions on where to order a new one please?

Moving to the water ingress - sorry about that if I miss understood something - I am still not convinced how the water pump would push the water up through the cables?
Anyway, I am planning to cut the wires and use the waterproof connector attached, then twist the copper wires with the cut, then use the heat shrink. Does this enough?
Also, I brought IPA solvent the clean the pins/connectors of the CJB, but I still have no idea about the amount of damage there yet!


@xf_phil, thank you for asking 😄 , but I didn't understand how to do any of the below suggestions 😅

"If you want a temporary fix just tap into a local power feed and increase said feeds fuse amp capacity. Then at least you'll be warm whilst waiting to find an appropriate BCM :)

If you choose not to opt for the temporary fix, you should at least supply HVAC with manual power to confirm it works too."
 

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What I have done last weekend is:
The water pump of windscreen wipers was alright, but there filter between the washer reservoir and water pump was clogged, so I cleaned it and the wipers start to spray water on the windscreen.
Unfortunately, the headlight water pump seems faulty :( , any suggestions on where to order a new one please?
What makes you think the headlight pump is faulty?
Are the terminals corroded / does it look like it's been leaking?

If the last digits of your vin are <= S20752 it's C2S4086 otherwise if it's >= S20753 ( and this it more likely for a facelift ) C2D10540 ( looking on ebay that appears to be ford 6M21-13K082-AB - plenty of equivelents to be found if you search for that )

Moving to the water ingress - sorry about that if I miss understood something - I am still not convinced how the water pump would push the water up through the cables?
Anyway, I am planning to cut the wires and use the waterproof connector attached, then twist the copper wires with the cut, then use the heat shrink. Does this enough?
Also, I brought IPA solvent the clean the pins/connectors of the CJB, but I still have no idea about the amount of damage there yet!
The pumps break in such a way that they leak inside the electrical connector, since it is sealed to the outside to prevent rain etc getting in, the water has no other path to take than between the strands of the wire, eventually all the way back to the CJB.
I'm not quite sure what you are suggesting, but it's best if you can have a section with non-stranded wire I guess which is properly sealed to the existing wire on the side that runs to the CJB, but not sealed to the side that comes from the pump so any water will drip out without trying to force it's way into the side that runs to the cjb.

Yeah it sounds like you're going to need to remove the CJB, and open it to have a good look.

@xf_phil, thank you for asking 😄 , but I didn't understand how to do any of the below suggestions 😅

"If you want a temporary fix just tap into a local power feed and increase said feeds fuse amp capacity. Then at least you'll be warm whilst waiting to find an appropriate BCM :)

If you choose not to opt for the temporary fix, you should at least supply HVAC with manual power to confirm it works too."
Personally I wouldn't increase ANY fuse ratings, the fuses will be sized so that they blow before the wire will overheat/catch fire. However there are some circuits which are hardly used, e.g. the accessory/lighter socket in the front compartment of the center console, so you could leave the fuse alone, and take power from there. Wherever you take power from put an inline fuse in where you take it rated for 10A ( like the original for the HVAC), and make sure the wire used is rated for at least 10A too. Connecting it at least temporarily to the hvac module instead of the red wire you found ~1V on before would let you see the the hvac module etc is ok without feeding power back to the cjb. You can generally de-pin the connectors so there's hopefully no need to cut the wire and re-join it ( though that may be easier ) I think you'll find the Red wire for the hvac is at pin-9 on the green connector on the cjb, I guess it is probably easier to de-pin at that end, but the ground for the cjb is also on that connector, so don't pull out that without first disconnecting the negative leads from the batteries.
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
I went today to bring my car from the bodywork, surprisingly, the AC/heater started to work and blow air and the heated seats as well! :oops: The air vent still not rotating.
Unfortunately, I left the car for nearly 3 hours, then the AC/heater stopped working again :cry:
I don't understand what's going on this crazy car!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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